If max. sidewall pressure is 44 PSI like mine are, then at 39, I don't consider 9 PSI over the door sticker to be too high.
If you want a nice ride with those tires, I would suggest you at least try 36 PSI all around and see how you like it. That will maximize your traction at both ends. The Michelin LTX M/S is one of the best tires ever made for our platform, and responds well to pressures that approach 85% TO 90% of the max. sidewall pressure cold.
Always keep in mind that most manufacturers want to induce understeer in their vehicles because it is safer for granny. She goes too fast into a corner; the front end keeps going straight when she wants it to turn; she panics and takes her foot off the gas, it transfers weight forward and it self-corrects. (Unless she has really screwed up badly.) Therefore, the manufacturer wants the fronts to be safe but below the maximum traction point.
If a vehicle is in perfect dynamic balance and neither understeers nor oversteers, if a driver cooks a corner too fast and takes their foot off the gas, it transfers weight forward but in this case, the front is already at maximum traction so it effectively reduces weight off the rear, lessening the rear traction, and the rear end can start to swing around. (This is called throttle-off oversteer.) It takes more skill - according to liability-shy manufacturers - to stay in control of the average car when it oversteers than when it understeers.
An extreme example is a 1980's-vintage Porsche 911 Turbo; 90% of them are now wrecked after spinning ass backwards out of curves by drivers who wanted the look and the rarity but didn't have the skills to control a car that would not just begin to get light on the rear end if you took your foot off the gas in a corner; it would lose control.
However, keep in mind we are dealing with a heavy SUV and it will never be a Porsche no matter what colour we paint our brake rotors. We will never get a perfectly neutral vehicle on our platform. I am the type of driver who wants to minimize understeer as much as possible. This is why I run slightly higher pressures in front and why I run a stiffer aftermarket sway bar in the rear.
If you find a quiet paved parking lot where you can safely and legally go round and round in a tight circle, you will also begin to instantly understand what I mean by preventing "tuck-under" of the front tires in sudden corners. If the circle is tight, you do not need to be going very fast at all.
Mark Donohue, for those of us old enough to remember him, was not just a skilled race driver, he was a brilliant engineer. Before he took any race car out on the track, he would remove the body work (to eliminate aerodynamic forces) and test the chassis and suspension on a very tight skid pad. In the 1970's, he could dial in more 240 MPH Can-Am and Le Mans race cars going 30 MPH in a tight circle than most engineers could do with all the computer power and test tracks at their disposal today.
Thankfully, in all the years I have been driving, I can only think of one occasion when I really needed those extra few PSI in the front (aside from the race track.) I was going down the highway approaching a cross road when I saw a car that I somehow sensed wasn't going to stop at the stop sign. I saw her turn her head to the right to look for traffic and then drive straight through.
Sadly ... I was coming from her left.
A sixth sense had me back off the gas but she was directly in front of me before I could react. Someone in my truck nailed the gas as hard as they could, swerved to the left only enough to miss her by an inch, immediately corrected to the right before any appreciable weight transfer had taken place and then straightened the wheel to put me back in my lane like nothing had taken place. To this day, I still don't know who it was that was doing the steering but I know one thing; if that person had even tried for the brake pedal, we would both be dead.