On the driver's side I want to replace just the control arm, and not the bracket as you did originally. Was there any problems you had getting the two bushing bolts and nuts off? Did you reuse them?
I did this a couple of weeks ago, with new LCAs I had bought / stashed away for the future. I could tell my lower ball joints were on their last legs, so decided to finally install the new LCAs.
When I took them out, I saw that they had new nuts / bolts, and that I could reuse the bracket and just replace the swingarm. So I did. My bushings weren't torn, and I wanted to save the trouble of a alignment, as well. Plus the steel brackets weren't badly corroded. I stashed the new brackets away for the future.
(In retrospect, I probably should've done the whole LCA, bracket and all, because I'm now also replacing my outer tie rods as well (so I have to get an alignment, no matter what). Anywhoo... )
I didn't have much trouble at all with getting the bushing nuts / bolts out (that connect the swingarm to the bracket). You'll need a wrench on the bolt end; arrange it so that it wedges against the frame or something else immovable, once the nut starts turning it. Room is limited on the rear-facing bolt, but I was able to get the closed end of the combination wrench in there w/o any issue.
With the nut, I used a deep socket. On the rear, I was able to fit my electric 1/2" impact, along with a swivel / wobble extension. On the front, if you want to break the torque by hand (or don't have / can't fit an impact), it's not too hard -- I think the spec is 86 ft-lb, so it's not too bad getting them off. A 1/2" breaker bar will make short work of it.
After the nuts were out, a good smack with the ratchet head drove the bolts out of the bushings / brackets -- they weren't seized, etc.
While I used the new nut / bolts, 'just because'... I'd have had no qualms re-using the old ones, so if you didn't get new ones, I wouldn't worry, unless you found them to be corroded. Mine weren't, at all.
One thing that annoyed me is that the replacement bolts were a little smaller (socket) than the OEM. But I still used them, as they were new, and I figured Dorman got some sort of 'ok' to use the smaller bolts, from an engineering standpoint. I also imagined that they were smaller for ease of replacement, vs. the OEM.
Another thing that annoyed me was that the new ball joints weren't greaseable. So as soon as they wear out, I'll have to drive them out, just like I would with the OEM (although, at least I don't think they're staked in like the OEMs are.)
In short... if you want to try just replacing the swingarm... I did, and it wasn't a terrible job.