Lower Ball Joints or Lower Control Arms?

[Up And Down]

Hi,
I have some questions relating to my 05 TrailBlazer SWB 4x4. The time, at around 150k, is here for me to replace the lower ball joints along with the hubs for the first time. I did the uppers on both sides within the last 2 years. Am I better off just doing the ball joints themselves or should I be doing the whole lower control arm at this mileage? What are the advantages and disadvantages to doing each? Will the axle shafts have to be pulled to do it either way? Any special tools needed to do this job? Are there any aftermarket companies that make good quality non-greasable lower ball joints and/or lower control arms like the factory units? Along the same lines, how are the factory lower ball joints installed? I know the originals are "crimped" in. Do the factory replacements use a retaining ring? Thanks in advance for any and all advice and opinions. All responses are appreciated.

 

[6716]

The story seems to be if you do the LCAs you get new bushings, as well as new ball joints.

At 150K the bushings might well make a difference.

I'm still wondering if the greaseable zerk is better, or a closed ball joint. Maybe folks more knowledgeable here can say.

 

[Playsinsnow]

At 150k the bushings could be close. I am debating this same question at 132k. But I've searched "lca" and "lower control arms" in the bar above and have read varying reviews on aftermarket arms. Checkout Rockauto if not going oem.

My attitude is if you had 135k (say they were bad for 15k, who knows) why would you not buy the same part, oem, that lasted so well?


There are member builds that go through the process. Removing just the bushings from the brackets can be a pita. Or pay for the whole thing which is what I may do.
Can't hurt to do the lca's now rather than next year or whenever.

Did you get Timken hubs?

 

[blazinlow89]

The reviews have been mixed on the complete LCA assemblies. While it is a great deal, you usually do not get the nicer ball joints thrown in. You can buy just the inner bracket which contains the bushings. I went the route of changing the lower strut mount, and the LBJ when I did the lift. It was extra work but I got greasable Moog ball joints. I was going to do the urethane bushings, but opted not to and sold them on here instead. I went with the complete UCA with new bushings, however I still need to replace the bracket with the bushings as they are a bit squeaky now.

I prefer greasable components as it tends to make me at least, pay more attention to the parts. I also like the ability to flush out contaminants with fresh grease. However I do not think we have a good baseline from someone who just does basic day to day driving as far as longevity for other brands. My delco ones were shot at about 80-90k miles.

 

[Up And Down]

My attitude is if you had 135k (say they were bad for 15k, who knows) why would you not buy the same part, oem, that lasted so well?
...
Did you get Timken hubs?

I agree completely. When I did the uppers, I went with the dealer parts for the exact same reasoning. As far as your question of why not OEM lower control arms the answer is simple...price. I asked the question about the OEM ball joints and if they need to be "crimped" in like the originals were because I will definitely consider getting them if I do end up replacing the ball joints alone. I am leaning towards Timken hubs but I have not bought any yet.

 

[Playsinsnow]

Timkens ftw


Many will agree.

 

[Up And Down]

Thank you for the replies. Are there any threads here or YouTube vids showing the lower control arm replacement procedure? I have seen the lower ball joint process on that "other" site in the past, just don't remember details. Thanks again.

 

[hockeyman]

Thank you for the replies. Are there any threads here or YouTube vids showing the lower control arm replacement procedure? I have seen the lower ball joint process on that "other" site in the past, just don't remember details. Thanks again.

This is one set of video's that I watched and went by:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dk1F91DbuuQ

For my project, the lower ball joints were a BiTcH to remove! Not sure if the very cold temps (February, outside was 20-25℉, & in the driveway) had much to do with it or not, but I had one hell of a time getting them out. I ended up using a propane torch to heat the surrounding control arm, then an impact gun with a press kit to finally kick-them-out. Fun Fun Fun!

 

[Up And Down]

Thanks for the replies. Does the axle shaft have to be pulled out to do this job? Is there any pressure on the axle with the wheels in the ground? What I am getting at is, can I torque the axle nut back down to the proper spec with the truck back on the ground? Thanks again.

 

[Instrumental]

Torquing the axle nut with wheels on the ground is the only way to do it as far as I know. I guess you could have someone hold the brakes on while you did I it.

Just don't forget to pop the center cap out of the wheel first. Personally, I do this as soon as I pull the wheel off, no desire to get everything back on the ground and THEN realize I didn't.