Lifted TB frying axle housing?

[revamp]

Last October 2011 I had my lift and spacers on. Had a shop do it. In addition, I had the passenger CV axle, housing and gasket, and wheel hub bearing replaced because they were shot... Just flopping around.

Just got back from a camping trip and took my truck in thinking my passenger hub bearing was shit again, but turns out the CV housing on the passenger side, as well as the gasket are shot.

I am working in getting the parts covered under warranty at least, but it concerns me I am even having to deal with this. I just replaced my drivers side hub bearing and CV axle a few weeks ago, and it was also replace In January.

So, despite my ambitions of taking this off road, I only drive highway.

What else could be going on to cause this breakdown so soon, or at all?

Thanks in advance for helping me figure this out. I am getting tired of spending this kind of money on this truck, but need it for my commute.

 

[The_Roadie]

Last October 2011 I had my lift and spacers on.

What vendor's lift? There are some out there that should not be installed because they overextend and can break CV joints. They shouldn't be on the market even for 2WD trucks because they also put the upper ball joint stud under stress.

Had a shop do it.

Competent shop? Did this sort of spacer lift install before?

In addition, I had the passenger CV axle, housing and gasket, and wheel hub bearing replaced because they were shot... Just flopping around.

What's the "housing and gasket"? Do you mean what we call the front axle disconnect assembly, where the CV shaft goes into on the side of the oil pan?

Just got back from a camping trip and took my truck in thinking my passenger hub bearing was shit again, but turns out the CV housing on the passenger side, as well as the gasket are shot.

Is it this assembly? Offroadtb.com Front Axle 4WD Disconnect

I am working in getting the parts covered under warranty at least, but it concerns me I am even having to deal with this.

What sort of warranty is going to cover suspension parts after a lift install? All I know about would exclude coverage.

I just replaced my drivers side hub bearing and CV axle a few weeks ago, and it was also replace In January.

HUH?!?!?!?! How many miles? What brand CV shafts are going into your fine truck?!?!?!?!

So, despite my ambitions of taking this off road, I only drive highway.

What else could be going on to cause this breakdown so soon, or at all?

Thanks in advance for helping me figure this out. I am getting tired of spending this kind of money on this truck, but need it for my commute.

I'm betting you got one of the cheap lifts like ReadyLift designed by idiots that I've been warning about for years as being unacceptable. Did you ever think to call the lift company (whoever they are) with your concerns?

 

[revamp]

Thanks or the detailed questions. To answer many of them, I am using mark's 3" lift and spacers. The CV axles are Napa brand.

I wanted to reply with that right away. NTB has done my work for a while now. They warranty most of their parts for up to a year.

I will go back through your questions and get
More details later this evening.

Thank you!

 

[revamp]

I thought I would add a picture to show a little better of what is going on.


View attachment 22637

We are hoping all I have to pay for is labor. My concern is what might be causing this kind of reoccurring wear and damage as a result? Of course the shop blames the lift and spacers, but I have never seen anything like this or heard any warnings of putting on the lift and spacers.

Any input would be helpful. I will post updates as I can.

 

[rmsg0040]

Wow thats way out

 

[The_Roadie]

Worst I've ever seen that didn't have a cracked housing.

NAPA CV shafts may have a different inner CV joint behavior than OEM or the Cardones many of us use as replacements. Marks' lift may be too much at full extension, but it may work without the outer 1/2" shims. (I'm not sure if Mark's 3" kit includes those.)

Only way to be sure, which your lift installer should should have done, is to rotate the tire while at full extension and check for CV binding. If it does bind, it will press up a bit on the oil pan and rock the engine on the motor mounts. This over time could cause failure of CV shafts, hubs, and the disconnect.

Or else there's something else bent in your front end that allows Mark's lift to overextend your suspension.

But my thought is that all this is caused by overextension.

 

[revamp]

Worst I've ever seen that didn't have a cracked housing.

NAPA CV shafts may have a different inner CV joint behavior than OEM or the Cardones many of us use as replacements. Marks' lift may be too much at full extension, but it may work without the outer 1/2" shims. (I'm not sure if Mark's 3" kit includes those.)

Only way to be sure, which your lift installer should should have done, is to rotate the tire while at full extension and check for CV binding. If it does bind, it will press up a bit on the oil pan and rock the engine on the motor mounts. This over time could cause failure of CV shafts, hubs, and the disconnect.

Or else there's something else bent in your front end that allows Mark's lift to overextend your suspension.

But my thought is that all this is caused by overextension.

I have the 3" version of Mark's lift, no additional spacers. Would shot sway bar end links play a part in this?

What other solutions are there to reduce overextension? I know when the mechanic put on the lift and all of the other work done at that time, he said it moved fine... I actually remember the conversation. And, it even drove and handled great! I loved it! Then I kept having reoccuring issues with Wheel hub bearings going out and CV axles. I had gone through a couple wheel hub bearings before that work was done, and the cause of the major repair last year was because the CV axle was like it is now and they had to replace the whole housing.

I love my TB and want to figure out what is going on, but this is driving me crazy. Has no one else experienced anything like this? Hard to believe I would be a first in this situation...

Thanks all!




UPDATE: Talked to NTB today who is waiting to hear back from the dealer tomorrow for part availability for the housing plate and gasket. Also learned there are two sizes of gasket seals - a smaller one you can buy anywhere, and the larger one (I have) is a dealership only part, and 3 times as much (about $30). Joy.

 

[Sparky]

That's normal, the seals are not available at any parts stores. Dealer only.

Yours is the worst I've ever seen. And in such short time too? Yikes. I don't even know how it is possible to be shot that bad. Maybe they botched the disconnect reassembly? Forgot the grease, or not enough?

 

[revamp]

That's normal, the seals are not available at any parts stores. Dealer only.

Yours is the worst I've ever seen. And in such short time too? Yikes. I don't even know how it is possible to be shot that bad. Maybe they botched the disconnect reassembly? Forgot the grease, or not enough?

Wow, if lack of grease, or lack of little grease can cause that much damage, I will make sure they get plenty in there. I know my gear oil leaked as a result of the shot seal. I had put in Royal Purple. Too expensive to loose so quickly.

Thanks for the feedback. I will provide updates as I get them as well as any results of any other problems that arise (hopefully none).

Still anxious to hear how everyone else is surviving the 3" suspension lifts without any trouble like this.

Thanks.

 

[revamp]

Ok... quick question...

I feel stupid even asking this, but when I had the lift put on the mechanic didn't flip the UCA's like I asked. I may have a chance to have them do that now, would that make a difference related to all of this?

Thanks.

 

[Regulator]

No, the upper control arms wouldn't make that kind of a difference.

As everyone else has said, that is by far the worst I have seen. There HAS to be something else wrong in the suspension. Can you get some pictures of the entire suspension setup while it is sitting static on the ground?

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Still anxious to hear how everyone else is surviving the 3" suspension lifts without any trouble like this.

Thanks.

I have the 2nd prototype 3 inch lift and the longest one has been installed. No issues at all. Even with big heavy tires and some fairly rough trails n rocks.

 

[revamp]

No, the upper control arms wouldn't make that kind of a difference.

As everyone else has said, that is by far the worst I have seen. There HAS to be something else wrong in the suspension. Can you get some pictures of the entire suspension setup while it is sitting static on the ground?

I will try to run by the shop tomorrow when they open on my way to work to get more pictures. It may still be on the lift, but I will see what they will help out with. They have been very cooperative.

Just to ask, is there anything or any angle in particular I should "shoot" for?

Thanks.

 

[Regulator]

I will try to run by the shop tomorrow when they open on my way to work to get more pictures. It may still be on the lift, but I will see what they will help out with. They have been very cooperative.

Just to ask, is there anything or any angle in particular I should "shoot" for?

Thanks.

My only guess is that they have something wrong with the installation. There is no way that it can be wearing that bad and that fast unless something is wrong. Just try to get pictures of the entire strut tower and close ups of the lift itself.

 

[The_Roadie]

And use Cardone CV shafts next time. I'm suspecting the NAPA ones of not being designed with the same maximum inner joint angle. Mike Barton did some analysis on ORTB, but it might have been James Downing. I forget, but I know they'll correct me soon. Without the strut installed, a mechanic should be able to gently lower the lower control arm to a place that's farther extended than the strut would allow, while continuously checking for CV joint binding. Then install the strut, and confirm that it doesn't bind.

When you get pictures, also make sure to get one of the threaded part of the shock rod as it extends through the top of Mark's spacer and bushing and washer and nut. If the shop messed up the installation and the strut is longer than intended, there will be fewer threads showing on top of the nut than other installations.

EDIT: Perhaps the supply chain has been compromised and the hubs and CV shafts they've been putting in are not name brand but Cheap Chinese Crap in counterfeit boxes. It's happened to aviation fasteners and semiconductors as well as car parts.

 

[Wooluf1952]

Then I kept having reoccuring issues with Wheel hub bearings going out and CV axles. I had gone through a couple wheel hub bearings before that work was done,

EDIT: Perhaps the supply chain has been compromised and the hubs and CV shafts they've been putting in are not name brand but Cheap Chinese Crap in counterfeit boxes. It's happened to aviation fasteners and semiconductors as well as car parts.

That may be the problem with the bearings.

 

[revamp]

Update: sorry no pictures this morning. The shop has the housing assembly apart to see what else is going on. The local dealership is assisting by inspecting the parts.

That's it for now. Will hopefully have some news later.

 

[Voymom]

Update: sorry no pictures this morning. The shop has the housing assembly apart to see what else is going on. The local dealership is assisting by inspecting the parts.

That's it for now. Will hopefully have some news later.

I don't have anything useful to add as I'm not familiar with this type of stuff, but I did want to say Good Luck on getting it fixed, and fixed right, or at least finding out why this is happening.

 

[revamp]

Heard today from NTB that they are eating the cost of the parts, except one part that wasn't worked on last October, a shaft in the housing (?). All I will have to pay for is labor and that part, which they said they are going to work with me on. it will be ready Monday when the last part comes in from the dealership.

The dealership didn't want to warranty the parts without inspecting the vehicle, which would require NTB have the truck taken to the dealership in their dime, just to determine if the wear is warrantied or not. NTB said it was too much hassle and just opted to eat the cost of the parts and warranty them in house.

Now let's hope it's not too much. Just got hit with some dental work, bit of a double whammy.

Once the truck is back together I will get plenty of pictures to evaluate. I will then put together a plan to get Cardone CV shafts and get them swapped ASAP.

Stay tuned.