LED bulbs

[SteelCityFan]

Would something like this work to assemble the tail light assemblies back together? [EBAY]170756133675[/EBAY]
if not what could i pick up say at lowes or home depot?

 

[Blckshdw]

Would something like this work to assemble the tail light assemblies back together? [EBAY]170756133675[/EBAY]
if not what could i pick up say at lowes or home depot?

You're doing this to your stock assemblies right? If so, just need a screw driver.

 

[kardain]

You're doing this to your stock assemblies right? If so, just need a screw driver.

His plan was quads, so I'm guessing something to glue the circuit housing back together.

That ebay stuff should work, but I've used this with good success: Plastic Epoxy from Loctite | The Home Depot - Model 1360788

 

[djthumper]

His plan was quads, so I'm guessing something to glue the circuit housing back together.

That ebay stuff should work, but I've used this with good success: Plastic Epoxy from Loctite | The Home Depot - Model 1360788

Don't waste the time waiting for the stuff from Ebay. Just get the stuff from Home Depot or Lowe's .


So on the resistors, if I do all four corners do I need 2-3 ohm resistors or is it just 1-3 ohm resistor to handle it. I thought 1 would handle the four corners.

 

[kardain]

Don't waste the time waiting for the stuff from Ebay. Just get the stuff from Home Depot or Lowe's .


So on the resistors, if I do all four corners do I need 2-3 ohm resistors or is it just 1-3 ohm resistor to handle it. I thought 1 would handle the four corners.

I'm conceding to the recommendation of a single 3 ohm resistor on each side... At least until I can get some free time to bench test a circuit using the OEM flasher.

It could be due to how the GMT circuitry is as compared to my Sunfire that allows a 3 ohm resistor to work... a single 3 ohm on my Sunfire hyperflashed on it whereas a single 6 ohm fixed it (5 pin flasher vs the however many pin on the GMT)...

 

[Matt]

So on the resistors, if I do all four corners do I need 2-3 ohm resistors or is it just 1-3 ohm resistor to handle it. I thought 1 would handle the four corners.

Larry,

You need 1 x 3ohm per side for a total of 2. I have mine wired into the tail and it handles both front and back.

 

[djthumper]

Larry,

You need 1 x 3ohm per side for a total of 2. I have mine wired into the tail and it handles both front and back.

I had a feeling the site that I was looking at had that listed backwards, There has got to be a way to do this with only one resistor pack instead of multiple, and run it near the flasher

 

[Blckshdw]

I had a feeling the site had that listed backwards, There has got to be a way to do this with only one resistor pack instead of multiple, and run it near the flasher

2 separate circuits, dealing with 2 separate signals. Not sure how you'd accomplish that one. That's your homework assignment for the weekend!

 

[djthumper]

2 separate circuits, dealing with 2 separate signals. Not sure how you'd accomplish that one. That's your homework assignment for the weekend!

So we have more than 1 flasher controlling our turn signals?

 

[mubai]

Glad to see another familiar face.

The stock bulbs are soldered to the board, so you can't get out of that one. Not sure on the standard ones, but hey, who wants those?

The details on my cluster mod can be found here for a reference.

All right, LEDs in and now I can see my dash. I also ordered a new headlamp switch, got a sweet deal from RockAuto closeout ~$30! Only problem now is that my speedometer, oil gauge and batter gauge doesn't work! I'll have to read the threads on stepper motor replacement. :banghead:

 

[Sparky]

His plan was quads, so I'm guessing something to glue the circuit housing back together.

That ebay stuff should work, but I've used this with good success: Plastic Epoxy from Loctite | The Home Depot - Model 1360788

I just siliconed my board back together when I repaired it. Yeah, I didn't replace it, I repaired it instead

 

[SteelCityFan]

Got my flashbacks in, they look great but i didnt solder in my resistors yet because its late at night and i dont have my rear LEDs in yet so i have annoying hyperflash for now, but i will post a video up when i get all my LEDs in and another when i get my quad tail light set up in!

Switchbacks!
LEDs i got off ebay, the notches were a little big on the sides so the LED didnt go in but nothing an X-Acto knife cant fix
View attachment 17795
Switchbacks on no blinker:
View attachment 17796
View attachment 17797

 

[trailblazer075]

Is it possible to have references or websites or find these bulbs?
Here are some pictures of my rear lights.
I also support the reference because I think yours are differnt in Europe because the lights are different.
In Europe, the flashing lights not working at the same time that the lights at night.

 

[Short Bus]

I also support the reference because I think yours are differnt in Europe because the lights are different.
In Europe, the flashing lights not working at the same time that the lights at night.

Do you mean that the turn signal bulbs don't light with the tails? that's the way it is here. Top = brake and tail middle = turn/flashers bottom = backup lights

 

[trailblazer075]

In France: Top light + brake
Middle: flashing
bottom left anti fog
bottom right reversing lights

 

[SteelCityFan]

As for the load resistor part, I respectfully disagree. By changing both front and rear on the same side, you are reducing the overall resistance of the circuit which would need to be counteracted with higher ohm resistors. By using a single 3 ohm on that side, it may not be enough to prevent hyperflash. A single 6 ohm pair, however, should supply enough resistance for the flasher.

I did wire in a 3 Ohm resistor works like a charm!

[video=youtube;Vgl5LQzoAho]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vgl5LQzoAho&feature=youtu.be[/video]

 

[Sparky]

If I turn them around, they don't work as they are not on the right polarity.

As for the load resistor part, I respectfully disagree. By changing both front and rear on the same side, you are reducing the overall resistance of the circuit which would need to be counteracted with higher ohm resistors. By using a single 3 ohm on that side, it may not be enough to prevent hyperflash. A single 6 ohm pair, however, should supply enough resistance for the flasher.

Actually no, you have that backwards.

Changing bulbs to LEDs decreases current in the circuit, meaning they increase resistance on the circuit (Ohm's Law). That reduced current is what makes is hyperflash (it isn't a standard old-style thermal flasher, those stop flashing or flash really slowly with less current draw). To get the current back to the levels of normal bulbs, you need less resistance to increase the current. One 6-ohm resistor is similar to the bright filament of the stock bulb. Two bulbs are in parallel on the truck (front + rear) which makes the equivalent resistance of the circuit at 3 ohms.

Therefore, a single 6 ohm with LEDs front and rear will not prevent hyperflash. Two of them (one front, one rear) will, or a single 3 ohm will have the same effect.

 

[Boricua SS]

maybe this mod should be in the articles section if someone wants to do a deatiled write up??? sorting through 2 pages of misconstrued info from different opinions gets rather annoying...

so to break it down... to do an LED bulb swap.. you need 2 CK style bulbs (3157) for the top rear park/brake bulb, a standard 3157 for the middle turn signal bulb with a 3 ohm resistor only if you do LEDs up front as well or just a 6 ohm resistor if your just doing the rear OR the front, and a standard 3157 for the 3rd reverse light bulb?

then for the front switchbacks, a 3157 and just shave the nubs off? since a 3457 possibly isnt made in switchbacks

is this all correct now?

 

[Blckshdw]

Minor note, you may not need to shave the nubs on the 3157's. I didn't have to with the switchbacks I got. They went right in with no problems, and no modding.

 

[Boricua SS]

Minor note, you may not need to shave the nubs on the 3157's. I didn't have to with the switchbacks I got. They went right in with no problems, and no modding.

ok gotcha... i only mentioned that because i had to mod my 3157 Xenon Chrome tipped turn signal bulbs.. so i just figured...

but other then that.. do i have everything correct in my previous post to accomplish this mod? and with the 3 ohm resistor.. one end is tapped into the blue wire and the other end is grounded to somewhere of my choice?

and are these acceptible for the top park?brake led bulbs...
[EBAY]180775657553[/EBAY]

 

[kardain]

Actually no, you have that backwards.

Therefore, a single 6 ohm with LEDs front and rear will not prevent hyperflash. Two of them (one front, one rear) will, or a single 3 ohm will have the same effect.

later corrected in post 45 Aside from the load resistor debacle, I see no other corrections to your writeup. I would add like to add that the fronts may be CK style... Someone had mentioned that their truck came with CK but the name escapes me at the moment. Besides, it doesn't hurt to check w/ a DMM as a standard bulb in a CK socket can cause problems (melting, burning, replacing lots of wire)... ask me how I know

As mentioned, though, some 3x57 bulbs don't come with the nubs... but 3157 and 3457 anything (with nubs intact) require slight modification to interchange.

So we have more than 1 flasher controlling our turn signals?

Just one flasher. Left and right are on two different circuits within the flasher.

 

[Sparky]

later corrected in post 45

Ah sorry missed that one. The EET in me went >.< and the CDO side of me (OCD alphabetized ) had to correct and go into all sorts of detail

 

[SteelCityFan]

In reply to the poster talking about splicing into the turn wires for the resistor, it is the blue wire nextbto the brown wire, and I just spliced the other end of my resistor into the ground of my turn harness as well no problems so far!

 

[Matt]

I would add like to add that the fronts may be CK style... Someone had mentioned that their truck came with CK but the name escapes me at the moment.

That would be me. After much swearing, Mike from JS and I discovered that my front park/indicators were CK style, so I can't run switchbacks unless I get new sockets. So, all I did was run white CK's there. They are white parks and flash a brighter white when the indicator is on.

 

[kardain]

That would be me. After much swearing, Mike from JS and I discovered that my front park/indicators were CK style, so I can't run switchbacks unless I get new sockets. So, all I did was run white CK's there. They are white parks and flash a brighter white when the indicator is on.

If you want switchbacks, v-leds has them in ck form. I accidentally ordered a pair... 5K white, amber turn. They are in my center console after finding out I needed standard instead..... Turns out my dmm decided to lie that day (read as: burn out).

$35 shipped? I can't use them on either of my vehicles without changing sockets and minor rewiring so would much rather they go to a good home. One bulb already has the nubs sanded down. If not, that's coo. I'm sure I can figure something out in the spring

 

[Sparky]

Wait wait, are you guys saying that some trailblazers use CK sockets up front, and others do not?

 

[Blckshdw]

Wait wait, are you guys saying that some trailblazers use CK sockets up front, and others do not?

It's a rare occurrence, but

 

[Matt]

If you want switchbacks, v-leds has them in ck form. I accidentally ordered a pair... 5K white, amber turn. They are in my center console after finding out I needed standard instead..... Turns out my dmm decided to lie that day (read as: burn out).

$35 shipped? I can't use them on either of my vehicles without changing sockets and minor rewiring so would much rather they go to a good home. One bulb already has the nubs sanded down. If not, that's coo. I'm sure I can figure something out in the spring

Thank you for the offer. But I'm partial to the white now...just have to get the corners done and clear mirror lenses and I'll be amber free.

 

[Blckshdw]

Thank you for the offer. But I'm partial to the white now...just have to get the corners done and clear mirror lenses and I'll be amber free.

It's only been a few days since I installed the clear corners, and after talking with one of the SSOwners guys, I'm starting to lean this way too. The 194 switchback is a forward firing bulb, there's no lateral coverage, so outside of doing a custom LED job on the sides, you're kinda out of luck. Decisions, decisions...

 

[Matt]

It's only been a few days since I installed the clear corners, and after talking with one of the SSOwners guys, I'm starting to lean this way too. The 194 switchback is a forward firing bulb, there's no lateral coverage, so outside of doing a custom LED job on the sides, you're kinda out of luck. Decisions, decisions...

I just have the normal 194 led in there now, so I think I should be good...as long as they flash it's good for me.

 

[Boricua SS]

ok, one last question i have..

ive been on autolumination and found the load resistors... i know i need 3 ohms since im doing switchbacks up front as well.. but on autolumination, they are rated at 50watts adding an extra 25watts for the bulb to function.. is that correct? or do i need a diffferent wattage load resistor? they also have 75W and 100W aaplications at 3 ohms.. so which one is applicable for us?

 

[kardain]

50 watt is recommended, 75 would be better. The wattage value is basically the maximum wattage dissipation of the resistor before component failure sets in.

A six ohm resistor dissipates 24w at 12 volts. Two bulbs require twice that, or 48 watts dissipation.

 

[Sparky]

Just a note about the wattage however, with it flashing the duty cycle is only going to be approximately 50% (only on half the time). 50W is all that you need as you won't be coming too close to that at all (probably only about half that).