Learn me something about transmissions...

littleblazer

Gold Supporter
The Escalade continues to perplex me on exactly wtf is going on with it. Somedays it shifts like a brand new transmission. Other days (like today) it essentially has no 2-3 shift and is practically undrivable. The problem I'm having with this is that there is absolutely zero reason for it to even remotely behave in this manner. There is no way clutches have good and bad days. Solenoids maybe but even reading the live stream everything moves as it should.

I'm taking any and all thoughts on this as I'm prepared to light it on fire and push it off a cliff as it's worth more in a ravine than driving presently. Got a lot of shit going on and this only add to the pile.

-Paul
 

Sparky

Moderator
Does an ignition cycle ever make an effect?
When it acts up, does it ever correct itself later in the drive cycle or does it stay stuck?
Temperature, both outdoor ambient and transmission internal?
When it hangs in 2nd does it ever throw a DTC for failing to upshift?

The only thing I can think of if electrical is working correctly is mechanical. Maybe the solenoid electrical is working but the mechanical part is not, failing to reroute fluid. Or a partial blockage.
 
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littleblazer

littleblazer

Gold Supporter
Does an ignition cycle ever make an effect?
When it acts up, does it ever correct itself later in the drive cycle or does it stay stuck?
Temperature, both outdoor ambient and transmission internal?
When it hangs in 2nd does it ever throw a DTC for failing to upshift?

The only thing I can think of if electrical is working correctly is mechanical. Maybe the solenoid electrical is working but the mechanical part is not, failing to reroute fluid. Or a partial blockage.
It's quite literally what ever it feels like doing. I've passed people and had the thing just flash up then done it again 30 seconds later and it takes off like a raped ape. Honestly still don't have any appreciable data. It is worse if the battery is disconnected seemingly.
 

Sparky

Moderator
Which trans does this thing have again?
 
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littleblazer

littleblazer

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brianlibby791

Well-Known Member
Build the 4l65 and put a cam and exhaust in the 6.OH and go full send.
 

Sparky

Moderator
Ok. Have you done any work on it like a pan drop to swap out any parts of the valve body?

I'd drop the pan and check the harness and solenoid. Can see condition of some other stuff too while you're in there. Just don't pull the valve body if you don't have new gaskets at the ready.

If it were a bad accumulator or similar I'd think that it would attempt to shift and flare/slip/etc, not just simply sit in 2nd.
 
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littleblazer

littleblazer

Gold Supporter
Ok. Have you done any work on it like a pan drop to swap out any parts of the valve body?

I'd drop the pan and check the harness and solenoid. Can see condition of some other stuff too while you're in there. Just don't pull the valve body if you don't have new gaskets at the ready.

If it were a bad accumulator or similar I'd think that it would attempt to shift and flare/slip/etc, not just simply sit in 2nd.
Well that's it, it flares up really bad a lot and sometimes just skips to 4th. Today it was pretty good, then I moved it back in the driveway and coming down the block it started messing up.
 

Sparky

Moderator
Could very well be a cracked accumulator or something like that. If you can have it down for a bit drop the pan and valve bodyvand take a look at stuff. If there is something wrong in there, fix it (with the kit I like to use). If nothing visble, probably more internal and you'd be better off replacing or rebuilding.
 
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littleblazer

littleblazer

Gold Supporter
You use the transgo kit no?
 

Sparky

Moderator
That's part of it. Also has sonnax accumulators, hardened plate, etc. Seller on ebay carries the combo kits.
 

xavierny25

Well-Known Member
You use the transgo kit no?
That's part of it. Also has sonnax accumulators, hardened plate, etc. Seller on ebay carries the combo kits.
I ordered that kit about 2yrs ago for the Voy but never put it in. Its actually in a storage bin with other spare parts I've got for the truck.
Anyway I never did pull the trigger on installing it because I feel that after I got my tune done by @limequat The truck seems to shift really nicely. If @littleblazer does decide to go digging into his tranny and do it I'd like to help/watch and maybe even learn how and what is needed when I may need to do this myself.
 
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littleblazer

littleblazer

Gold Supporter
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littleblazer

littleblazer

Gold Supporter

xavierny25

Well-Known Member
Imma just quick order that.
Before I ordered I made a call to the tech and made sure I gave him all the info on my truck and the transmission I've got. I also had to pick up a set of ball bearings that aren't included in the kit, think it was a extra 7 bucks.
 

Sparky

Moderator
I never had to replace the check balls. Even on my first I did that was really beat the check balls were ok.
 

xavierny25

Well-Known Member
I never had to replace the check balls. Even on my first I did that was really beat the check balls were ok.
It was recommended by the guy or guys who put these kits together while I was on the phone with them at the time. Did I get squeezed for 7 bucks I really don't know and I probably wont know till I decided and have the time to put the kit in.
 

Sparky

Moderator
Won't hurt, but my experience is they aren't necessary after having done it 3 times so far :2cents:
 

Reprise

Lifetime VIP Supporter
Anyway I never did pull the trigger on installing it because I feel that after I got my tune done by @limequat The truck seems to shift really nicely. If @littleblazer does decide to go digging into his tranny and do it I'd like to help/watch and maybe even learn how and what is needed when I may need to do this myself.
:duh: SMH...LOL...the 'shift improvement' (re: 'performance') is secondary...the primary purpose of the kit is to *prevent* (or rectify) issues. That stock TCC valve will eventually widen its bore, the longer you drive the truck. 100% certainty. And then you'll need to put in a new VB (or spend *more* money for the Sonnax kit, which is difficult to install, and the reamer costs a fortune to buy, considering you only use it once.) It's good to replace the plastic accumulators, too - they do break (not a 100% thing like the TCC bore issue, but since you're in there...)

Why wait for the problem(s) to show up and cause yourself unscheduled downtime? You know the truck is a keeper, with all you've put into it. "Do it already", I say. :wink:

Put another way...if you don't drill out the separator plate, or install the servo...it should shift just about as 'nicely' as it does now. Even a good chance that wifey doesn't notice / complain :ok:
Even in a worst case, you can send the PCM back to Jeremy afterward, and he'll only charge $25 to tweak it for you.

If littleblazer is near you, I'd be beating a path to his door w/ your grubbies, some tools, and beer (always beer!) to give him a hand installing...and then you can do yours. Or have the BIL help (but you'll still have the beer requirement!)

Hopefully, you didn't interpret this as a 'lecture'...just tryin' to help out a fellow member :Lager Louts:
 

xavierny25

Well-Known Member
Hopefully, you didn't interpret this as a 'lecture'...just tryin' to help out a fellow member :Lager Louts:
Not at all Reprise. I'm fully aware of what the kit does after reading countless threads on here about ppl having slip issue and such and it being recommended. My Voy has been babied for its over 183??? miles. It's my wife's DD and she in no rush to get anywhere if you get what I mean. lol. I can see having the kit installed if I drove it everyday (I'm heavy footed and like cutting in and out of everyone's way). Besides I've got a secondary cooler and change out my fluid alot earlier then needed just to be on the safe side.

@littleblazer lives about an hour and 15-30 minutes from me. We've had the chance to meet up twice last year which was pretty cool. I'd definitely be willing to bring anything I could to help.:Lager Louts:
 
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littleblazer

littleblazer

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Oh no. Not beer. :laugh:
 
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littleblazer

littleblazer

Gold Supporter
So stupid question. I borrowed this photo from the googles as my instructions are in the cold right now. Since I am using the vette servo, should I use the recommended spring for that servo with that valve, the white one, instead of the yellow one to be used with the stock style servo and valve. It had the 553 servo and dx valve. The thing that scares me is the huge difference in spring weight.
87439
Also, the kit came with a white spring that it said to use instead of doing the servo flip. WTF does that even mean. 😕 Otherwise, uneventful so far.
 

Reprise

Lifetime VIP Supporter
IIRC, I went with the yellow spring for mine (I had the 553 piston, and the DX bushing - mine is a V8).

The guy who wound up rebuilding my trans (b/c I burnt mine up by not refilling properly) put in the Vette servo. TBH, I don't recall that it shifted any harder on the 1-2 than before the work was done. And I know that it doesn't shift harder after the rebuild & the Vette servo added. But my 1-2 has always been pretty firm (so, at least it didn't get firmer / worse).

BTW, I did drill out my separator plate, per the instructions; not sure if you were altering yours. That provides some more shift holding feel on the 1-2, as well.

The heavier the bushing spring, the firmer the 1-2 shift is theoretically going to be. When you look at the 'listen up' sections, it talks about potentially using the next higher number spring (which in your case, looks to be the orange), if the band has a lot of wear (you can't see it w/o removing the trans, so you just have to go by the mileage.)

Based on all of that, I'd go with the yellow. That one has 72 lb rating. I would not drop down to the white with 1/3 of the rating, since you have put in the vette servo to increase firmness / hold. You want at least as heavy as what you had there, not lighter.

On the other (?) white spring / servo flip - can you screencap that page? I don't recall that one, TBH.
 
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littleblazer

littleblazer

Gold Supporter
Well that's it. It was just a hand written sheet in the kit. I'll grab a picture later.
 
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littleblazer

littleblazer

Gold Supporter
Me thinks I figured it out. This piston goes in first in mine followed by the blue spring. On theirs they say to reverse the order.
8744087441
 
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littleblazer

littleblazer

Gold Supporter
So I think I messed up. Apparently for the 1-2 accumulator you reuse the stock springs instead of using the ones in the kit... Can anyone confirm?
 

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