I have an '03 trailblazer LTZ. I put my 3rd transmission in it two years ago, at 130,000 mi. I have around 148,000 now and when I'm going down the road the car feels like its missing but it's not the engine. It sort of sputters a little bit and I can hear the transmission (I think) hum. It should shift but it sort of bogs down and doesn't shift right away then when it does, I will still feel the missing feeling. The sputtering is not constant. This is really hard to explain. I replaced all the u joints because one was bad and that fixed the clunk noise. But I notice it is coming back and now yesterday, it felt like the car was going to die instead of just a little sputter. Any ideas?
Is this a transmission issue
- Thread starter nodogs027
- Start date
IllogicTC
Member
- Dec 30, 2013
- 3,452
nodogs027 said:
Third transmission? Wow, how hard are you on this thing
Can you absolutely confirm it's not an engine misfire? Do you have the Torque Pro app? I ask because it gives a cylinder-specific misfire count. It would seem misfires happen on occasion and aren't always enough to warrant a check engine light unless it's repetitive enough.
I don't drive the car any different than my other cars. I occasionally pull a 16" boat but it doesn't seem to be too heavy for it. The first replacement was under warranty. It had 15,000 miles on it when I bought it. It supposedly was only used by dealership people and it developed problems within a couple months. The second one, lost reverse, not sure why. It's been about 2 years since I cleaned the throttle body. I will do that in the next day or so.
IllogicTC
Member
- Dec 30, 2013
- 3,452
nodogs027 said:
Ah. I was hoping
it's a scan tool app for Android-based phones. A bunch of people around here get it since it's only $5, and combined with a bluetooth OBD-II adapter (model ELM327, hundreds of cheapies on eBay that work just fine in the 10-20 dollar range) they use it as a low-cost method to get the same functionality as $150+ scan tools.Speaking of which, do you have a scan tool? One with live data, perhaps? It could help immensely in attempting to troubleshoot.
I have an Android so I will check the app out. A local auto parts store will let me use their scan tool. Your talking about the tool that brings up codes etc, right? It's been a couple years since I've used one, but they are pretty easy to learn again. Might just go out & do the TB now. I'll let you know if it helps. Thanks
So, I cleaned the TB and put some Techron in the tank. The car does run a bit smoother but now I can feel the problem even worse. From the feel of it, I'm pretty positive it's not the engine. I wish I could describe it better. It almost feels like something is going to lock up maybe. It sort of feels like it could be more towards the back of the car. The tranny doesnt take forever to shift, it sort of bogs down into a lower gear. Best I can describe the feeling is when a bearing on something locks up. Nothing to do with the engine hesitating.
nodogs027 said:
I didn't see any mention of other fluids in your posts, Have you checked or changed the Transfer Case fluid lately? It has a short 50k replacement interval using a special AutoTrac II fluid. If it's dry or close to it, it could be causing that "lockup" or "miss" feeling. How about the front and rear differentials?
seanpooh
Member
- Jan 24, 2012
- 461
Are you cruising/coasting when this "sputtering" happens?
When I read your first post, I remembered my issue when I am in OD, the rpm would sputter up and down within a range of 200rpm. This which I learned is when the torque converter doesn't lock properly. It might be that, I don't recall any conclusive test to indeed show that it's the TC not locking up. Our sister site offroadtb had a few threads about TC lockup and some fixes.
When I read your first post, I remembered my issue when I am in OD, the rpm would sputter up and down within a range of 200rpm. This which I learned is when the torque converter doesn't lock properly. It might be that, I don't recall any conclusive test to indeed show that it's the TC not locking up. Our sister site offroadtb had a few threads about TC lockup and some fixes.
I will check the differentials first. The TC was replaced with the new transmission but I can check it out if servicing the differentials doesn't fix it. Thanks. Will let you know if i have any luck.
I don't recall it acting up when coasting. I'll have to pay more attention. It does act up mostly around 2000 rpm. but not always, it happens at all speeds.
We'll... I've cleaned the throttle body, added techron to fuel, changed fluid in front differential, which was low and very dirty, also did the back , no metal inside,gears look fine, but very dirty, and I still have the problem! Could it be the thrust bearing? I'm thinking on changing out spark plugs & wires since I had the rusting problem once before. Any other ideas.
I've cleaned the throttle body, changed the front & rear differential fluids, checked the transfer case fluid (looks good), and still having problems. In fact, it almost seems like it's going to quit running any time. I've ordered new plugs and wires. Still waiting for wires after 9 days! I was looking around for something that could be disconnected and found that one of the wires to the camshaft position actuator is almost cut in half and there is a splice connector on the other wire. What drew my attention to it was the oil that had saturated the wire harness. I cleaned the wires and disconnected the electrical connector (after disconnecting the battery) and it was full of oil. Would this have anything to do with the missing and/or stuttering I am trying to figure out? What can I do to make sure I get all the oil out of the connector? It looks like the oil could have been spilled when changing the oil. It's weird I didn't notice it before because I keep the engine pretty clean. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated
I guess I should add, the car starts acting up after I go around 40 MPH. I take my daughter to school a few miles away and the car runs fine there and back. I never get going over 30 MPH. If I go on the highway over 40 then the sputtering starts.
triz
Member
- Apr 22, 2013
- 746
Upload a picture. I think your referring to the CPAS. Oil will go thru it when they start to go bad and. If you have any type of broken wire near there, yes it will affect the driving. Very surprised it has not thrown a code if it's breaking. Just to be sure see if you can upload a pic.
Mine was very saturated at one point and it started to sputter. I cleaned it and all was well. Eventually I did just replace it with one from the local dealer.
Mine was very saturated at one point and it started to sputter. I cleaned it and all was well. Eventually I did just replace it with one from the local dealer.
Bill05EnvoySLT
Member
nodogs027 said:I've cleaned the throttle body, changed the front & rear differential fluids, checked the transfer case fluid (looks good), and still having problems. In fact, it almost seems like it's going to quit running any time. I've ordered new plugs and wires. Still waiting for wires after 9 days! I was looking around for something that could be disconnected and found that one of the wires to the camshaft position actuator is almost cut in half and there is a splice connector on the other wire. What drew my attention to it was the oil that had saturated the wire harness. I cleaned the wires and disconnected the electrical connector (after disconnecting the battery) and it was full of oil. Would this have anything to do with the missing and/or stuttering I am trying to figure out? What can I do to make sure I get all the oil out of the connector? It looks like the oil could have been spilled when changing the oil. It's weird I didn't notice it before because I keep the engine pretty clean. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated
Am I confused??
OP says " I've ordered new plugs and wires. Still waiting for wires after 9 days! "
When did we switch from COP to Wires?? could be your issue
I have to ask to take pictures of this build up and of the wires in question please..
Bill05EnvoySLT
Member
nodogs027 said:its right by the oil dipstick.
nodogs027 said:this is inside the connector! It's got oil inside it again !also the thing it's connected to turns... Not sure if it's supposed to so freely?
nodogs027 said:
This is what is inside connector.
Good NEWS
your pictures confirms the original diagnosis.. its the Variable valve timing solenoid or also known as CAPS - 30-40 dollar part and will take someone with some mechanical ability 30 min to swap out.I just pulled mine to clean it yours needs to be changed as the seals are blown and will definitely cause driving issues....
Quick step by step should be really easy for you if you have basic tools.
1, loosen the Serp belt
2, take a 3/8 extension with i think 13MM or 15 MM socket and insert through the holes in the front of the Power steering pully and remove 3 bolts.
3, move Power-steering unit to the side and move forward a little (you should not have to disconnect anything from it other then unbolting from motor is enough)
4, locate 10MM bolt for CAPS or VVTS and remove don't drop it.. Lol
5, now this is a little tricky you have to try and rotate the VVTS CAPS unit just a little while pulling on it to get the unit to unseat from the spot its in (has O-Ring) will be a little tough to [pull may need to use small flat tip driver to help it along)
6, let the old one drain out while your taking a nice clean rag and clearing any residual oil and debris from the opening being careful not to push anything into the exposed opening and FOR GOD'S SAKE DON'T SPRAY ANYTHING INTO IT LIKE CLEANER.)
7, OPEN new unit make sure o-ring is lubed in fresh oil and slide over new VVTS CAPS to its top stop. run oil along the length of the new sensor and reinstall (should go in pretty easy at this point. rotate to where you can re-install the 10MM bolt. tighten but don't monster the bolt in hand tight good enough (its going into aluminum)
8, reconnect electrical connector.
9, place P/S pump back in place and bolt back up.
10, re-install Serp Belt
11, check for any extra screws, bolts, tools in area
12. turn key, start for a sec then turn off double check belt is in correct allignment with all pullies. nothing binding.. check oil lvl add as needed proper weight oil (5-30W)
13, start truck. let run for a few look for any codes.
should take 30 min to complete.:wootwoot:
Good Luck.
-Bill
Edit *** adding linky for other good info ***
http://gmtnation.com/f25/multiple-mil-codes-dont-know-where-go-7342/
triz
Member
- Apr 22, 2013
- 746
That is the CPAS. Seeing the condition of it. I would replace it with a OEM PART a little more expensive but better. The oil leaking into the harness can cause a driveablilty issue, sputter, stall etc. My worry is your harness. I see something with a butt connector and that as well may be causing a issue.
Texan
Member
- Jan 14, 2014
- 622
Excellent post Bill, but when I look at the pictures I see signs that the wiring harness
connector has been replaced using crimp connectors. If you dig through all the other
post on this, they recommend solider the connections and use heat shrink insulation.
I have not had this problem, but have experienced poor connections using crimp connectors.
connector has been replaced using crimp connectors. If you dig through all the other
post on this, they recommend solider the connections and use heat shrink insulation.
I have not had this problem, but have experienced poor connections using crimp connectors.
Thanks to everyone for your input!!! I finally got the car running great! Excellent posts with detailed information were very much appreciated.
Bill05EnvoySLT
Member
Really Shame is you had to go to a stealership to get it fixed. This is one of those jobs you could have done with the most basic of mechanically ability. I don't know how much they charged you so I can only say sometimes it may be better. For me, I can't afford to have someone else with on it and I feel better knowing what I have done to it. Just me though. Good luck with it.
Bill
Bill
I didn't have anyone do any of my projects on my Trailblazer. I did everything myself. I saved over $450 doing the maintenance and repairs myself!
... Oh, now I see where you got the idea about the stealership doing the work. I saved the receipt for the solenoid I bought from O'Riellys. It has a warranty for 12 months as well.
... Oh, now I see where you got the idea about the stealership doing the work. I saved the receipt for the solenoid I bought from O'Riellys. It has a warranty for 12 months as well.
Bill05EnvoySLT
Member
I thought I had found and fixed my problem but apparently, The 10 mile test drive was not far enough. The missing is happening! I should have the plug wires tomorrow, so I will change the plugs & wires. If that's not the remedy, it has to be the transmission. I will have to give in and take it into the tranny shop. I can't believe it's still doing this! Just as a reminder, the work I've done so far is: Change front & rear differential fluids (no metal shavings), change transfer case fluid, clean throttle body, put Techron in fuel, replaced u joints, replaced variable valve solenoid, repaired wires to solenoid. No codes are showing up. The missing starts up after going over 40 mph and it feels like something is going to lock up, and sounds like the tranny is bogging down(I think)and /or going to just stop running. It's hard to explain. Anyways, at this point, I don't trust it to go anywhere more than 40 mph! I had a problem in 2007 kind of similar that ended up (after it quit running) being "water in the spark plug hole allowing coil to ground to cylinder head", causing a misfire in cylinder #4. I had to replace plug, coil, remove & replace AIP seal. Any other ideas???
I still have the same problem. I am leaning back towards the transmission. The engine is running like a top. It runs smooth and has more power etc. etc, etc. I still have the missing/hesitation after going 40 mph. It sort of acts like it's not going to shift and has a humming kind of sound. If I give it some gas, it hesitates and then will shift but will go back down again. It will intermittently sputter of feel like its going to lock up usually after going over 40, but always does it when i step on the gas over 40. Hope this makes sense to someone.
I'll go drive the car & try to get a video. While I'm out I'm going to stop and have auto parts store see if any codes come up. Be back soon! (I hope)
Bill05EnvoySLT
Member
only way auto parts store will know if a code is there is if they see a CEL, SES, or other warning indicator. i know a few codes will pop but not throw the light but in your case i think it would since its a drivability issue.nodogs027 said:
has the check engine light ever come on?
Wish you the best with this issue
please keep us informed.
Check engine light has never come on for this problem. There are no codes showing up at auto parts store. I have an appointment at 9am today. I will let you know what they come up with.
I soldered the wires. they seem to be holding together fine. I have a guy with a MODIS scanner here. It shows there is no engine RPM on tranny side while going down the road. No ignition 1 voltage