SOLVED! IAT sensor

Elizabetty

Original poster
Member
Dec 2, 2022
191
Wisconsin
Hello. I know the intake air temperature is not going to be the outside temperature as the air gets warm under the hood. However, I get such varied readings while driving and looking at live data that I'm thinking part of the erratic idle and drive that comes and goes could be related to a faulty or dirty sensor.
I looked up what would be normal based on what the temperature is outside and the type of engine and what to expect but there doesn't really seem to be a set data point that I could find. I find it odd that I can be driving around and it'll say 39° and other times I'm driving around and it says 77. It's approximately mid 20s outside, fahrenheit, during these readings and my driving style and amount of time on the road etc is standard between when I check and see the varied readings.
It appears it's a fairly easy part to swap out if needed, but I'm wondering if it's possible to clean the sensor. The throttle body was very dirty and there was plenty of sludge in the manifold. Would that mean it's possible for the tip of that sensor to also be dirty and could it be cleaned? I realize it's not a super expensive part but I'm trying to avoid unnecessary expenses until they are really needed since I'm chipping away one thing at a time and don't want to break the bank.

Is there an expected temperature I should see while operating the vehicle? Maybe it's a range of a certain amount of degrees above outside temperature? Can it be cleaned? Additionally, how would a bad sensor affect the overall mechanics as far as each step that happens along the way after the engine identifies that temperature? Hopefully you know what I'm trying to ask. I would like to understand the chain of events if possible.

I do not have codes. I realize until something is bad enough, codes may not be thrown, but my goal is to maintain and prevent before things break or cause problems further.
 
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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,382
Ottawa, ON
The IAT sensor is located in the accordion duct between the air filter and resonator. It normally doesn't get dirty and is not known for failing but is possible.

I don't know what temps to expect from it as I never really looked at it. Maybe @TJBaker57 has plotted the data from this sensor.
 
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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,382
Ottawa, ON
The second one shows a beginning IAT temp of ~14f so we'll assume that's the ambient temp. It then rose pretty steadily to ~39f and it seemed to reach that high at idle and went down as the truck started moving again. So of course you get more fresh air when you're moving and can vary the IAT. So unless you are getting very erratic temps, it would be normal to have it moving around.
 
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budwich

Member
Jun 16, 2013
2,060
kanata
Plus the fact that the air intake is coming by / is blocked by the radiator tank... so depending on air flow by it and the "turbulence" in and around, it could be quite variable. I don't think that the system takes any particular reading as "instant gospel" and probably does alot of "boxcar averaging" before anything is applied.

Ultimately, those "adjustments" would be reflected in your trims which would be the first factor to look at to determine whether things are going astray.
 

Elizabetty

Original poster
Member
Dec 2, 2022
191
Wisconsin
I feel kind of stupid right now because this sensor is supposed to be a fairly easy swap out or at least removal to see if it's dirty which I know is less common but not impossible. No matter what I do and how I twist and pull and wiggle and put all of my strength into it, I cannot pull this damn sensor out. I am 100% sure I am working on the correct sensor. No questions there. Why is this thing stuck? When I do get any type of give to it, it feels like it's going to pull the whole gasket off with it so I ease up on the twisting and pulling out of fear I'm going to break the damn thing or rip the gasket off. Is it safe to lubricate this thing at all from the outside with any type of spray that would get in and clean and loosen around it or does that run risk of damaging the sensor that I plan on cleaning with alcohol or risk damage in the ductwork even if it's just a few drops? I realize it's not glued in there but that's what it feels like. Am I literally just too weak to pull an easy remove sensor? Lol I hesitate to use pliers on it because I don't want to crush or crack it.
 
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christo829

Member
Dec 7, 2011
503
Fairfax, Virginia
Could you take a picture of exactly which sensor you're trying to remove? I think I know which one you're working on, but it shouldn't be fighting you that hard, so wanted to make sure we're on the same page.

And no, preferrably don't use pliers. If it breaks, it may be a pain to get the leftovers out...
 
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Elizabetty

Original poster
Member
Dec 2, 2022
191
Wisconsin
Could you take a picture of exactly which sensor you're trying to remove? I think I know which one you're working on, but it shouldn't be fighting you that hard, so wanted to make sure we're on the same page.

And no, preferrably don't use pliers. If it breaks, it may be a pain to get the leftovers out...
Obviously that's a screenshot and not mine but that's the sensor.
 

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mrrsm

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Oct 22, 2015
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Your Profile is vacant of any information about the Year-Make-Model, etc. of your Vehicle... But in a very general sense, the function of the IAT for 'taking the temperature' of the inlet air stream is meant to inform the PCM along with the added input from the MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor for later model GMT360s ...and with the use of a MAP sensor fitted on the Intake Manifold on Early Model LL8 Motors for determining the Absolute Manifold Pressure as a Vacuum under varied driving conditions.

In the case of those engines that sport a MAF Sensor... the idea here is that it actually "weighs" the incoming air stream in Grams Per Second in order to help the PCM to decide just how much Fuel to add per EFI Squirt... Moment by Moment. The IAT is usually incorporated WITH the MAF Unit because the PCM needs to know what if any 'micro-changes in air density' are happening to Quote Ash's response to Ripley in the Movie, "Alien". The Hotter the in-coming air stream becomes... the more separated the O2 Molecules become and thus, the PCM uses the IAT Data when 'thinking' about the MAF Sensor inputs in order to get it right.

Oddly enough... these two sensors are the reason that Motor Vehicles Do NOT require separate barometric input sensing in order to determine similar issues whenever driving... say... from Sea Level ... all the way to The Top of Pike's Peak as the Air Pressure diminishes gradually from 14.7 PSI ...downwards. The IAT never actually 'settles' upon any particular Temperature as being 'correct', per se... it just works WITH the MAF and-or MAP inputs to clue-in the PCM and allow it to "Regulate the Engine like an Air Pump" ...moment by moment. :>)
 
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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,382
Ottawa, ON
It was previously mentioned, in now deleted posts, hers is an '02 and it doesn't have a MAF.

@Elizabetty , I have taken the liberty of adding vehicle info to your profile to avoid any further confusion.
 
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christo829

Member
Dec 7, 2011
503
Fairfax, Virginia
OK. We were on the same page. I'm assuming you have the connector removed already, and you're just working on the sensor. If it's still fighting you, take the entire duct out, from the air cleaner to the throttle body. You should be able to get a better grip on that sensor to twist it out. If needs be, flex the duct and see if that allows it to pop free.
 

budwich

Member
Jun 16, 2013
2,060
kanata
you should be able to just spin the sensor (with the cable detached). That is the "first step". It breaks any "frozen components of the joint". A lot of rubber / plastic components "weld" themselves to their "seats".... gas lines / nipples, power steering hose connection at the pump, etc. You need to be able to spin the sensor to break the "seal" which then will allow it to be popped out. Someone might have siliconed it down but I doubt it.
 

Elizabetty

Original poster
Member
Dec 2, 2022
191
Wisconsin
It was previously mentioned, in now deleted posts, hers is an '02 and it doesn't have a MAF.

@Elizabetty , I have taken the liberty of adding vehicle info to your profile to avoid any further confusion.
oh i'm sorry. I could have sworn I did that already, twice actually...cell phone and then chromebook. Apparantly I can't use a save button? lol hmmm in any case, i tip my hat to you~
 
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Elizabetty

Original poster
Member
Dec 2, 2022
191
Wisconsin
Your Profile is vacant of any information about the Year-Make-Model, etc. of your Vehicle... But in a very general sense, the function of the IAT for 'taking the temperature' of the inlet air stream is meant to inform the PCM along with the added input from the MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor for later model GMT360s ...and with the use of a MAP sensor fitted on the Intake Manifold on Early Model LL8 Motors for determining the Absolute Manifold Pressure as a Vacuum under varied driving conditions.

In the case of those engines that sport a MAF Sensor... the idea here is that it actually "weighs" the incoming air stream in Grams Per Second in order to help the PCM to decide just how much Fuel to add per EFI Squirt... Moment by Moment. The IAT is usually incorporated WITH the MAF Unit because the PCM needs to know what if any 'micro-changes in air density' are happening to Quote Ash's response to Ripley in the Movie, "Alien". The Hotter the in-coming air stream becomes... the more separated the O2 Molecules become and thus, the PCM uses the IAT Data when 'thinking' about the MAF Sensor inputs in order to get it right.

Oddly enough... these two sensors are the reason that Motor Vehicles Do NOT require separate barometric input sensing in order to determine similar issues whenever driving... say... from Sea Level ... all the way to The Top of Pike's Peak as the Air Pressure diminishes gradually from 14.7 PSI ...downwards. The IAT never actually 'settles' upon any particular Temperature as being 'correct', per se... it just works WITH the MAF and-or MAP inputs to clue-in the PCM and allow it to "Regulate the Engine like an Air Pump" ...moment by moment. :>)
thank you. the make/model issue was addressed now and I apologize for that. I thought I did it but did not. hopefully less confusion going forward! --- I appreciate all the info whether it applies or not prior to this correction as i LOVE what i'm learning so far. :smile:
 
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Elizabetty

Original poster
Member
Dec 2, 2022
191
Wisconsin
Just a follow-up that I was able to finally get this out and cleaned it. As someone mentioned here, it wasn't very dirty looking but I cleaned it anyway. Whether coincidental or not, temperatures seem much more in line now with what I would expect to see. Then again, I have electrical issues and this sensor does occasionally drop communication so who knows (the other day, my engine coolant temperature lost communication and came back pulled up as -22 degrees Fahrenheit LOL)

Anyway, for now, let's close this out. :smile:
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,382
Ottawa, ON
If a temp sensor, coolant or air, had an actual issue, it would throw a code for it so I wouldn't worry about it.
 

movietvet

Member
Dec 21, 2022
458
Oregon
I just dealt with the same IAT sensor and I had to "convince" it that it would come out. Of course I twisted and broke the seal and then wiggled and tugged and it finally came out. I had ordered a new one from RA because when I did the throttle body cleaning I did find lots of crud in the manifold. Cleaned that all out and the throttle body and when the sensor was removed it looked fairly clean but it was cheap enough and I replaced. The very slight rough idle and very slight hesitation went away and I know was likely the throttle body cleaning that contributed most to the results. I just used spit on the rubber bore of the snorkel and convinced the sensor to go back in and all is good.
 
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