I am going lifted.

[blazinlow89]

I picked up Janesy86's old MarkMC lift kit. I have had lowered trucks in the past, and this will be my first lifted. I am not going for anything crazy, and no it will not be mall rated. I do plan on doing some off roading, nothing extreme. Of course this also means I will have questions. I spent all day today and some of yesterday reading OffRoadTB.com, and while I did learn alot, there are some things I am not 100% sure on yet.

So first off it is just the basic 2.5" kit from MarkMC. I want to replace the ball joints, any bushings I can replace with urethane, or OE equivalent, upper strut mount, struts, and shocks. I know I need to get my factory spring RPO code so I can determine what my spring rating is, they seem fairly thick, but nothing insane so I am guessing 85/86 (I am guessing to see if I can get close on this). I want to run around a 32" tire when all is said and done, for now I am thinking spacers, unless I can find a decent wheel with proper offset so I can run the tires away from the upper ball joint mount.

Now for questions. I did read about flipping the upper control arms for more ball joint "rotation", is this correct, and is this as simple as unbolt and install upside down of normal? Or do I swap side? I read of the Offset for the wheel, and it said I need less than 5" of backspacing, has anyone found a decent aftermarket wheel to get passed using spacers?

Of course now comes the one that I know has been repeated, beaten and drug into the ground. I am looking at a larger camper, and we do take several trips with 4-5 people and the back of truck loaded. Other times I rarely have anything in the truck, and I do not want tail swag especially with the camper (between 23-26'). I see the Z71 option but read about harsh rides with empty, what is harsh, I know not everyone sees this as the same, are we talking severe bouncing or just lack of compression? What kind of rake would I have running Z71 only in the rear, and just marks lower spacer in the front? I will ask about the front after I find out what I have.

Sorry if anyone feels like I am beating a dead horse, but I feel like I did pretty extensive research, reading entire threads worth of info. I feel very enlightened, but still have questions, and I would really like opinions as to what some people think.

I currently am running 118k miles so some of this stuff needs replaced anyways.

 

[The_Roadie]

Flipping the UCA also requires a left/right swap. Also the UCA front mounting bolt will hit sheet metal when you take them out, and the shop manual says to just cut or bend the fender metal out of the way. The factory assembles the suspension parts before installing the body, and the designers goofed (again.)

 

[blazinlow89]

Flipping the UCA also requires a left/right swap. Also the UCA front mounting bolt will hit sheet metal when you take them out, and the shop manual says to just cut or bend the fender metal out of the way. The factory assembles the suspension parts before installing the body, and the designers goofed (again.)

LOL, not a huge surprise. I am guessing this is a none issue with just the 2.5" lift.

 

[navigator]

Flipping the UCA helps with any lift. I have a 2 inch RC lift + Mark's 1/2" top spacer.
When I added Mark's spacer, I went ahead and flipped my UCA and it helped straighten the ball joint a good bit.
My alignment also came back in spec on Toe and Camber. My caster is still a little off but that doesn't affect tire wear.
Make sure if you are trimming the fender well that you feel behind it pretty good as there are items in close proximity that you might cut if you aren't careful.

I re-installed my fender liners after the trimming and you cannot even tell.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

LOL, not a huge surprise. I am guessing this is a none issue with just the 2.5" lift.

Since the 2.5 does't move the body, it still is an issue of you go to flip the control arms.

 

[blazinlow89]

I was asking if it was a none issue of needing to flip them after the lift. Wondering ifn its advisable to do so, or would I not notice a huge difference.

Also I have a couple ideas, I was looking at the aftermarket rear control arms. When I worked for my uncle we made a set for the new mustang, they are billet aluminum. And look sick. Might not be something for hardcore off roaders, but I'm going to measure them to see what kind nof fitment issues I might have.

Also looking at getting hub centric spacers without the wheel centric hub. Then making inserts that slide in so they can be removed if need be.

Just some ideas I am running through my head.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

I was asking if it was a none issue of needing to flip them after the lift. Wondering ifn its advisable to do so, or would I not notice a huge difference.

Also I have a couple ideas, I was looking at the aftermarket rear control arms. When I worked for my uncle we made a set for the new mustang, they are billet aluminum. And look sick. Might not be something for hardcore off roaders, but I'm going to measure them to see what kind nof fitment issues I might have.

Also looking at getting hub centric spacers without the wheel centric hub. Then making inserts that slide in so they can be removed if need be.

Just some ideas I am running through my head.

You dont have to flip them. The little bit of ball joint wear is all you would maybe save. I ran mine both ways and could not tell the difference.

There are a couple of people selling the rear control arms already. Mine are tubular steel since I bent the factory crap.

That how my spacers are. I would not want a wheel centric hub. I change my wheel too often and test fit stuff too much. I got mine from the guy partnered with MarkMC, before they were partners. Should be able to still get them.

 

[blazinlow89]

Can anybody tell me the Diameter of the MarkMC strut washers? I am looking at the KYB upper mount and I see it comes with 2 different size washers. I can probably make something if needed.