HID FAQ Guide

[dmanns67]

Hey folks, forgive me for getting to the party late, I'm a recent GMT370 owner.

I've seen Trailblazers and Envoys with HID lamps in the stock housings. They're blinding to other drivers. It's not the brightness, it's the lack of proper beam cutoff. Sure, they look great to the guy driving a truck with them.

It's this lack of cutoff and the resultant blinding of other drivers that makes using HID lamps (and the LED lamps) in housings not designed for them illegal as per federal law. The housings & reflectors are designed for the filament of the 9006 lamp-and the shaded tip of the bulb comes into play also. HID and LED lamps produce light in an entirely different pattern-that the stock reflector sends everywhere.

I've read through this entire thread and there's only a mention that actual projector housings would improve HID lamps over stock housings. Has anybody figured out how to get HID projector housings on these trucks?

Why yes we have. There are a few members here who have done retrofits. Smitty5150 (a member here) actually offers a service where he will do the retrofit to the headlights at a really good price. He has a thread on here. Carlton (BlckShdw)did a quad retro (projectors for the high beams and low beam) on his TB. He has recently sold them to Ryan (Aarkon) who is doing a retrofit right now.

If you are looking for parts to do it yourself, check out TRS. http://www.theretrofitsource.com/ They have complete HID kits, projectors, shrouds, etc. Everything you will need for a projector retrofit.

I had a company in Brooklyn, NY do my retrofit called HID Illusionz. They did a great job. In total parts and labor ran around $470.

Here is a pic of my retrofit on my TBLT with FX-R 3.0 bi-xenon projectors.



Here is a picture of the cutoff line from the projectors that you were talking about. Very crisp and nice blue/purple in the cutoff.



I was one of those guys that ran HIDs in the stock housings and you are right, the lumen output from the HIDs is great for the person behind the wheel, but is bad for oncoming traffic. I do not know how many times I was flashed. I ended up lowering the angle of my headlights which seemed to help as I was not flashed anymore.

I thought driving at night with HIDs in stock housing was great, but it does not compare to a HID in a projector. Light output is amazing and lights up everything on the road for miles it seems.

 

[Paul Bell]

Ahh, thank you sir(s). I'll be studying that thread. Now to figure out how to do it with Envoy housings-I can't imagine it's much different.

 

[Paul Bell]

20130412_210845.jpg

Now that's what I'm talkin about!

 

[dmanns67]

Ahh, thank you sir(s). I'll be studying that thread. Now to figure out how to do it with Envoy housings-I can't imagine it's much different.

I would not imagine it to be too much different. ConeKilrAutoX did a projector retro on his Voy. He also had a turbo setup as well. Here is a link to his gallery, http://gmtnation.com/forums/gallery/image/69-summer/

 

[hayes]

Alright, some bad news with my HIDs. Both of the ballasts stopped working last night. My fog lights are still working, so I was able to hook the headlights into the fog ballasts for now. I will follow up when I deal with the company for replacement.

My question is this: I did the DRL mod (resistor mod) or whatever it is called, and I am not sure that it's working. 1: How can I test to make sure this is working, and 2: did I do it right?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/tznzjj67irl69cj/2014-11-23%2018.31.17.jpg?dl=0

Is this the correct wire to ground out with the resistor? I followed the steps as best I could...

 

[Blckshdw]

Alright, some bad news with my HIDs. Both of the ballasts stopped working last night. My fog lights are still working, so I was able to hook the headlights into the fog ballasts for now. I will follow up when I deal with the company for replacement.

My question is this: I did the DRL mod (resistor mod) or whatever it is called, and I am not sure that it's working. 1: How can I test to make sure this is working, and 2: did I do it right?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/tznzjj67irl69cj/2014-11-23%2018.31.17.jpg?dl=0

Is this the correct wire to ground out with the resistor? I followed the steps as best I could...

Capacitor mod... Are your low beam HID ballasts running through a relay harness, or directly from the 9006 plugs inside the headlight? If running a relay harness, if you have the hood up, and someone turns on the low beams, do you hear the relay click or not? If not running a harness, have you checked the 9006 plugs for any signs of melted connectors or wiring? YOu should also check the HDM relay in the front fuse block, swap it with the cooling fan relay next to it, just to rule out that it's gone bad.

 

[hayes]

Capacitor mod... Are your low beam HID ballasts running through a relay harness, or directly from the 9006 plugs inside the headlight? If running a relay harness, if you have the hood up, and someone turns on the low beams, do you hear the relay click or not? If not running a harness, have you checked the 9006 plugs for any signs of melted connectors or wiring? YOu should also check the HDM relay in the front fuse block, swap it with the cooling fan relay next to it, just to rule out that it's gone bad.

That's a whole lot over my head... ha ha. They run through the stock headlight plugs. I was under the impression that the 70% power would be an issue no matter how they were set up. Am I incorrect? I have no problem wiring them in differently, if that will make a difference. Obviously, I want these to continue working for the long haul.

 

[Mounce]

That's a whole lot over my head... ha ha. They run through the stock headlight plugs. I was under the impression that the 70% power would be an issue no matter how they were set up. Am I incorrect? I have no problem wiring them in differently, if that will make a difference. Obviously, I want these to continue working for the long haul.

Can't see what's going on in your dropbox photo but you're right, the 70% power will kill the ballasts, that's why everyone does the capacitor (hope you didn't actually use a resistor) mod. Have you tried those ballasts again? Could be that your headlight relay was acting up and just happened to work after you switched ballasts.

 

[hayes]

Can't see what's going on in your dropbox photo but you're right, the 70% power will kill the ballasts, that's why everyone does the capacitor (hope you didn't actually use a resistor) mod. Have you tried those ballasts again? Could be that your headlight relay was acting up and just happened to work after you switched ballasts.

That's good to know. It was the capacitor mod (it's been awhile). I will have to check the ballast, swap the non-working ballast into the fog location and vice versa. Thank you for the advice.

 

[Mounce]

That's good to know. It was the capacitor mod (it's been awhile). I will have to check the ballast, swap the non-working ballast into the fog location and vice versa. Thank you for the advice.

No problem man, we're all here to help. If it does turn out to be your relay and you elect to replace it, make sure you get an ACDelco relay..aftermarket relays have been known to burnout and wreck the fuse block.

 

[Paul Bell]

After you did the DRL mod, your headlights no longer came on during the daytime, correct?

 

[Mounce]

After you did the DRL mod, your headlights no longer came on during the daytime, correct?

If he done the capacitor mod, they still came on, just at 100% power instead of the PWM'd 70%. Different DRL killing techniques do different things.

 

[hayes]

New developement. I turned my TB on this morning to go to work and one of the headlights is working again... Not entirely sure what's going on here. I removed the Cap MOD completely and have just been turning the switch off during the day. I did notice that when my lights should be on at 100% (because it's dark out) they are still dimmer than when I turn the switch to fully on.

 

[Blckshdw]

I did notice that when my lights should be on at 100% (because it's dark out) they are still dimmer than when I turn the switch to fully on.

Question, when the truck is on, and it's dark, does the light on the headlight switch to indicate the low beams should be on, light up? If not, your auto feature for the headlight is either damaged or disabled.

 

[hayes]

Question, when the truck is on, and it's dark, does the light on the headlight switch to indicate the low beams should be on, light up? If not, your auto feature for the headlight is either damaged or disabled.

The little green light is on and indicating that it's on. I am going to buy some regular bulbs today, on my way home from work, and see if the lights work as they should. They aren't expensive and it'll let me know where my problem lies.

 

[hayes]

Okay, good news. The Relay went out. It took me awhile, but I swapped the cooling fan and the headlight relay (15016745 - so there is a part number to help people locate it) and the lights came on without a problem. Thank you all for the assistance.

 

[Mounce]

It's recommended to only use an ACDelco replacement. Other/cheaper brands have had issues with melting and ruining the fuse block.

 

[Sib]

Ok so I am going to be getting a set of HIDs after Christmas and have a few questions for you guys...

1) I am going to be getting a set from TRS and was looking at the Denso slim ballasts. I heard that these ones don't take as long to fire up (true?). They are more costly but want to know if they are worth it or should I just get the Morimoto Elite HID kit that comes with the 35watt ballasts. I am not ready to do the projector retro on the headlights yet so just want to start with HIDs.

2) Does anyone have the new XB35 bulbs? I am not sure how much better they are than the standard 3five's.

3) I am going to do the cap mod instead of killing the DRL's and I notice that TRS sells a cap mod that connects right to the HIDs. It's only $15 so was wondering if anyone had this or if anyone would recommend this. I am completely comfortable just doing the standard cap mod under the rear seat, but then I noticed these and thought maybe a decent idea to not mess with any of the stock wires.

Thanks a ton guys.

-Matt

 

[dmanns67]

Ok so I am going to be getting a set of HIDs after Christmas and have a few questions for you guys...

1) I am going to be getting a set from TRS and was looking at the Denso slim ballasts. I heard that these ones don't take as long to fire up (true?). They are more costly but want to know if they are worth it or should I just get the Morimoto Elite HID kit that comes with the 35watt ballasts. I am not ready to do the projector retro on the headlights yet so just want to start with HIDs.

2) Does anyone have the new XB35 bulbs? I am not sure how much better they are than the standard 3five's.

3) I am going to do the cap mod instead of killing the DRL's and I notice that TRS sells a cap mod that connects right to the HIDs. It's only $15 so was wondering if anyone had this or if anyone would recommend this. I am completely comfortable just doing the standard cap mod under the rear seat, but then I noticed these and thought maybe a decent idea to not mess with any of the stock wires.

Thanks a ton guys.

-Matt

1.) Anytime you are buying OEM items, you are going to pay a higher price. I have not used the Denso, but have used the 3Five ballasts. Id say warm up time is around 10 seconds in the summer and around 15 seconds in the winter. Warm up time is not a big deal for me. If your only concern is the warm up time, I would save the extra $90 and go with the XB35 ballasts.

2.) I have seen and heard good things about the XB35 HID bulbs. TRS did a comparison with their XB35, Osram, and Philips HIDs. The XB35s performed almost as well as the $200 Osram CBIs. I actually plan on going with the XB35 HIDs in the near future based on how they performed in the comparison. I have no complaints about their 3Five HIDs.

3.) I agree going with the cap mod instead of the DRL killer is the way to go because you keep all of the auto lights. I would NOT go with TRS's cap mod for $15. You can go to Radio Shack and get everything you need for $5 at most. I have the cap mod and diode mod for 6hi completed under the rear seat for a few months now with now issues. I bought TRS's hi beam splitter which is supposed to allow quad beams, but it did not work. Much easier and cheaper to do the work under the rear seat on the BCM.

I would just go with their 9006 XB35 complete HID kit for $150 and 4500k HID. Their XB35 HIDs are not offered in 4300k anymore. It also comes with a relay harness which is highly recommended to use with HIDs. In the future, if you decide to do a complete projector retrofit, then you could consider going with OEM components.

 

[Midnyteryder196]

3.) I agree going with the cap mod instead of the DRL killer is the way to go because you keep all of the auto lights.

I have my DRL disabled and all my lights function just as they should, except no DRL.. Auto lights function flawlessly. Just my .02 [emoji3]

 

[Sib]

1.) Anytime you are buying OEM items, you are going to pay a higher price. I have not used the Denso, but have used the 3Five ballasts. Id say warm up time is around 10 seconds in the summer and around 15 seconds in the winter. Warm up time is not a big deal for me. If your only concern is the warm up time, I would save the extra $90 and go with the XB35 ballasts.

2.) I have seen and heard good things about the XB35 HID bulbs. TRS did a comparison with their XB35, Osram, and Philips HIDs. The XB35s performed almost as well as the $200 Osram CBIs. I actually plan on going with the XB35 HIDs in the near future based on how they performed in the comparison. I have no complaints about their 3Five HIDs.

3.) I agree going with the cap mod instead of the DRL killer is the way to go because you keep all of the auto lights. I would NOT go with TRS's cap mod for $15. You can go to Radio Shack and get everything you need for $5 at most. I have the cap mod and diode mod for 6hi completed under the rear seat for a few months now with now issues. I bought TRS's hi beam splitter which is supposed to allow quad beams, but it did not work. Much easier and cheaper to do the work under the rear seat on the BCM.

I would just go with their 9006 XB35 complete HID kit for $150 and 4500k HID. Their XB35 HIDs are not offered in 4300k anymore. It also comes with a relay harness which is highly recommended to use with HIDs. In the future, if you decide to do a complete projector retrofit, then you could consider going with OEM components.

Good stuff. Thanks for the quick reply.

I already have been to radio shack and have my cap mod wired up. I also have the diodes so I can do the quad beam mod as well. I soldered the cap to a 14AWG wire so I don't have any open wires sticking out. Should I take off the harness to tap into the pink/white wire or just leave connected? I guess it would depend on if I can get to it easily huh?

I was only concerned with the warm up time because I was under the impression that it is easier on the ballasts that way. But I will take your word for it. I know you've been running HIDs for a while now so I trust your input.

I am going to get the relay harness for sure. I do have a question on that though...I have the battery that has the side terminals that are basically inside the battery not on top. Where would I hook the relay up to?

 

[Sib]

I have my DRL disabled and all my lights function just as they should, except no DRL.. Auto lights function flawlessly. Just my .02 [emoji3]

Thanks for the input. I thought about this. I still would like to have my DRLs though. Especially for the safety factor. I have a 2 year old so the more people can see me the better. I know it may wear out the bulbs a little faster, but I can always just turn the switch to the left if I want to turn my DRLs off.

 

[Midnyteryder196]

Thanks for the input. I thought about this. I still would like to have my DRLs though. Especially for the safety factor. I have a 2 year old so the more people can see me the better. I know it may wear out the bulbs a little faster, but I can always just turn the switch to the left if I want to turn my DRLs off.

Its all good brotha.. I understand.. I was just putting in my .02 was all. Lol there are a lot of guys that do the cap mod, me I did the killer and added some side fire strips to top of headlights that come on when ignition is on for basically my DRL.

 

[Sib]

Its all good brotha.. I understand.. I was just putting in my .02 was all. Lol there are a lot of guys that do the cap mod, me I did the killer and added some side fire strips to top of headlights that come on when ignition is on for basically my DRL.

I would actually like to do something like that with the LED strips as my DRLs but I'm really not to knowledgeable when it comes to electricity so I don't even know where to start when it comes to wiring in those. I imagine it's just a matter of splicing some wires right? I also don't want to open up my headlights yet. Only have one pair and if screw it up I'm in trouble. My headlights are like $170 each (which is BS) so that will have to happen in the future. I have been researching the $hit outta this site over the last few months about headlights (so much so that my wife thinks I am part of a secret cult ) just to get a grasp on the cap mod and the quad beam mod.

 

[Midnyteryder196]

I would actually like to do something like that with the LED strips as my DRLs but I'm really not to knowledgeable when it comes to electricity so I don't even know where to start when it comes to wiring in those. I imagine it's just a matter of splicing some wires right? I also don't want to open up my headlights yet. Only have one pair and if screw it up I'm in trouble. My headlights are like $170 each (which is BS) so that will have to happen in the future. I have been researching the $hit outta this site over the last few months about headlights (so much so that my wife thinks I am part of a secret cult ) just to get a grasp on the cap mod and the quad beam mod.

Really the way I wired them in was super easy.. Just got an add a fuse, found a fuse that was powered with ignition on, and used that spot in the fuse block.

The strips use 3m tape and are mounted on the outside of the light.

 

[Sib]

Really the way I wired them in was super easy.. Just got an add a fuse, found a fuse that was powered with ignition on, and used that spot in the fuse block.

The strips use 3m tape and are mounted on the outside of the light.

Hmmmmmmm. That looks extremely simple and sweet. How do I figure out how to find a fuse that is powered with the ignition on?

Also, where did you get the led strips from? ebay or an led website?

 

[Midnyteryder196]

Hmmmmmmm. That looks extremely simple and sweet. How do I figure out how to find a fuse that is powered with the ignition on?

Also, where did you get the led strips from? ebay or an led website?

I used spot 29 which is the 02 sensor I believe..
I bought mine on eBay from China, they was like $3.50.. I would look for a us seller maybe as I already have 1 smd out of my driver side and only have had em in for 3 months.

 

[Mounce]

1.) Anytime you are buying OEM items, you are going to pay a higher price. I have not used the Denso, but have used the 3Five ballasts. Id say warm up time is around 10 seconds in the summer and around 15 seconds in the winter. Warm up time is not a big deal for me. If your only concern is the warm up time, I would save the extra $90 and go with the XB35 ballasts.

2.) I have seen and heard good things about the XB35 HID bulbs. TRS did a comparison with their XB35, Osram, and Philips HIDs. The XB35s performed almost as well as the $200 Osram CBIs. I actually plan on going with the XB35 HIDs in the near future based on how they performed in the comparison. I have no complaints about their 3Five HIDs.

3.) I agree going with the cap mod instead of the DRL killer is the way to go because you keep all of the auto lights. I would NOT go with TRS's cap mod for $15. You can go to Radio Shack and get everything you need for $5 at most. I have the cap mod and diode mod for 6hi completed under the rear seat for a few months now with now issues. I bought TRS's hi beam splitter which is supposed to allow quad beams, but it did not work. Much easier and cheaper to do the work under the rear seat on the BCM.

I would just go with their 9006 XB35 complete HID kit for $150 and 4500k HID. Their XB35 HIDs are not offered in 4300k anymore. It also comes with a relay harness which is highly recommended to use with HIDs. In the future, if you decide to do a complete projector retrofit, then you could consider going with OEM components.

Good stuff. Thanks for the quick reply.

I already have been to radio shack and have my cap mod wired up. I also have the diodes so I can do the quad beam mod as well. I soldered the cap to a 14AWG wire so I don't have any open wires sticking out. Should I take off the harness to tap into the pink/white wire or just leave connected? I guess it would depend on if I can get to it easily huh?

I was only concerned with the warm up time because I was under the impression that it is easier on the ballasts that way. But I will take your word for it. I know you've been running HIDs for a while now so I trust your input.

I am going to get the relay harness for sure. I do have a question on that though...I have the battery that has the side terminals that are basically inside the battery not on top. Where would I hook the relay up to?

Not sure whether buying their bundle of everything vs. ballasts separate from bulbs is cheaper but if it is, here's some of their xb35 bulbs for roughly half price in their closeout section.

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/closeouts/new-morimoto-xb35-bulbs.html#.VIegDqDnYm8

 

[Sib]

Not sure whether buying their bundle of everything vs. ballasts separate from bulbs is cheaper but if it is, here's some of their xb35 bulbs for roughly half price in their closeout section.

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/closeouts/new-morimoto-xb35-bulbs.html#.VIegDqDnYm8

Just added everything up and if I get the bundle and add the new xb35 bulbs (which adds $20) it comes out to $170 and if I do them separate it comes out to $172.50...that is including the relay harness which I'm definitely getting. I figured since I am spending the money to get TRS I should get their relay harness. Not sure if I order a relay harness from ebay if it'll affect anything?? Maybe because of the bundle they give you a better price with the new xb35's. If I save $2.50 I can put that towards a tin of Copenhagen to gnaw on while at installing them at least!

Also, this question might've gotten lost in the above post but when adding the relay harness to my battery, I don't have the top terminals. Any input on where I can hook it up to?

 

[dmanns67]

Don't forget to use TRSFBLIKE for the coupon code. It will save you 5% on your total order.

Just added everything up and if I get the bundle and add the new xb35 bulbs (which adds $20) it comes out to $170 and if I do them separate it comes out to $172.50...that is including the relay harness which I'm definitely getting. I figured since I am spending the money to get TRS I should get their relay harness. Not sure if I order a relay harness from ebay if it'll affect anything?? Maybe because of the bundle they give you a better price with the new xb35's. If I save $2.50 I can put that towards a tin of Copenhagen to gnaw on while at installing them at least!

Also, this question might've gotten lost in the above post but when adding the relay harness to my battery, I don't have the top terminals. Any input on where I can hook it up to?

With my relay harness, I hooked up the positive lead to the accessory terminal near the fuse box under the hood. You could also buy the GM specific battery terminal posts, pictured below, and hook up the positive lead of the harness to the battery. The terminal posts makes it easy to add other accessories as well. For the ground, I just used the factory location near the fender on the drivers side inside of the engine bay. Close to the battery.



These are the ones that I have. $5 a piece from http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_42121_Stinger-SPT55308.html

The terminal post is drilled and tapped. The smaller bolt on the head of the post fully unscrews from the post which allows you to add terminal rings to the post and secure them. Not bad for $5.

 

[Sib]

Don't forget to use TRSFBLIKE for the coupon code. It will save you 5% on your total order.

My man. Thanks! Do you know if that code is good for a while or does it expire? I need to wait till prolly January to order.

 

[dmanns67]

My man. Thanks! Do you know if that code is good for a while or does it expire? I need to wait till prolly January to order.

That code has been good ever since I have started using TRS which has been about two years.

Also, see my post above as I have edited it to answer your question.

 

[Mounce]

I'd just use the post on the fuse box like Dmanns. There's one by itself closest to the engine, it's used for the mystery red wire that goes to the trailer connector and comes unhooked from the factory. That post has a 30 amp fuse going to it iirc.

 

[Sib]

Don't forget to use TRSFBLIKE for the coupon code. It will save you 5% on your total order.



With my relay harness, I hooked up the positive lead to the accessory terminal near the fuse box under the hood. You could also buy the GM specific battery terminal posts, pictured below, and hook up the positive lead of the harness to the battery. The terminal posts makes it easy to add other accessories as well. For the ground, I just used the factory location near the fender on the drivers side inside of the engine bay. Close to the battery.

spt55308.jpg

These are the ones that I have. $5 a piece from http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_42121_Stinger-SPT55308.html

The terminal post is drilled and tapped. The smaller bolt on the head of the post fully unscrews from the post which allows you to add terminal rings to the post and secure them. Not bad for $5.

Great. Thanks. Def not bad for $5.

That code has been good ever since I have started using TRS which has been about two years.

Also, see my post above as I have edited it to answer your question.

Nice.


On a side note...It's really awesome how fast I have gotten answers tonight. I can't even get my lovely wife to answer me this fast!

 

[24v 4.2]

Anyone running a relay for their fogs? My drivers side doesn't always fire and I tried a different bulb and ballast. Anything that would only effect the one? I know the headlights are prone to doing that, but I never had a problem with the Fogs until recently.

I need to get a new multimeter to check it, since my old one stopped working.

 

[dmanns67]

Anyone running a relay for their fogs? My drivers side doesn't always fire and I tried a different bulb and ballast. Anything that would only effect the one? I know the headlights are prone to doing that, but I never had a problem with the Fogs until recently.

I need to get a new multimeter to check it, since my old one stopped working.

I am running a relay harness for the headlights and fog lights. Since doing the 6hi mod, when I unlock my TB at night and the headlights and fog lights come on, sometimes the driver's side fog light will flicker a couple times before firing up. Never had the issue on the passenger side. My HIDs in the fogs are about two years old and have quite a few hours on them. I never seen the issue in the summer. Seems like in the winter, HIDs have a harder time firing due to the cold plus I am trying to fire (4) HID bulbs at the same time.

Prior to doing the 6hi mod, I never had an issue with either HID firing up in the fog lights. The relay harness came with my Morimoto 3Five HID kit from TRS.

How old are the HIDs? I know once the electrodes inside of the bulb start to wear over time they have issue firing and eventually will fail when the ballast cannot strile the arc between the electrodes.

 

[24v 4.2]

I am running a relay harness for the headlights and fog lights. Since doing the 6hi mod, when I unlock my TB at night and the headlights and fog lights come on, sometimes the driver's side fog light will flicker a couple times before firing up. Never had the issue on the passenger side. My HIDs in the fogs are about two years old and have quite a few hours on them. I never seen the issue in the summer. Seems like in the winter, HIDs have a harder time firing due to the cold plus I am trying to fire (4) HID bulbs at the same time.

Prior to doing the 6hi mod, I never had an issue with either HID firing up in the fog lights. The relay harness came with my Morimoto 3Five HID kit from TRS.

How old are the HIDs? I know once the electrodes inside of the bulb start to wear over time they have issue firing and eventually will fail when the ballast cannot strile the arc between the electrodes.

The second ballast I tried was about a year old. The second bulb was brand new. I've had the 6 hi mod for over a year but I haven't had any problems until this point.

 

[dmanns67]

The second ballast I tried was about a year old. The second bulb was brand new. I've had the 6 hi mod for over a year but I haven't had any problems until this point.

Strange. Maybe an issue with the ballast. I think the TRS relay harness for the 880 HIDs runs $20 or $30 I believe. You can try that to see if there is any change. Always a good idea to run a relay harness with HIDs anyways.

Does your driver's side HID flicker or just not turn on at all? Does the HID not fire when you hit the unlock button at night or when you turn your fog/headlights on when the vehicle is running?

 

[24v 4.2]

Sometimes it fires the first time, and sometimes I can flick the lights on 2 to 3 times and it still wont fire until the third time. I do see it flicker as though it's trying to fire. Most of the time it will eventually fire if I turn them on and off a few times.

 

[dmanns67]

I would say try a relay harness to see if that makes a difference, but my driver's side fog HID still flickers at night ONLY when i hit the unlock button at night. It does not flicker or have issues firing when I use the selector switch with the vehicle running.

If your having the issue with the HID flickering or not firing with vehicle running, then I would say spend the $20 on a relay harness and see what that does for you. Not a bad idea to run a harness with HIDs anyways.