Headlight Wiring Replacement

TequilaWarrior

Original poster
Member
Dec 5, 2011
577
Central Pennsylvania
I failed my last inspection because my headlights were..... wonky. I had installed 100W LEDs without replacing the PWM module and they died a slow and agonizing death. The inspection station was not having it, period. So I put halogens back in to pass reinspect. While installing the replacement bulbs I noticed the wiring within the headlight assembly was missing literally all of it's insulation. It's burned off, gonzo... completely. I guess it's not up to carrying 100W per bulb for years. How silly of me. So my next project WAS going to be to replace the wiring within the headlight assembly. I don't know how other GMT360s are, but in the Bravada, there is a single plug that goes to the assembly and the assembly breaks out for hi-beam and low beam. In other words, there is a circuit within the assembly that the body plugs in to. It's the circuit within the assembly that's missing insulation. Some quick searching yielded results for direct-to-battery harnesses including relays for lots of different vehicles... but I couldn't find any specific to GMT360s. I know others have done this type of upgrade to their vehicles and I can only presume that it was accomplished by cobbling together pieces/parts (wiring, relays, sockets, etc...).... but on the off chance that anyone knows of an off-the-shelf kit that's available... I'd love to know about it.
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,687
Tampa Bay Area, FL
There is no kit for this, but it's also not as complicated as you're thinking. You've got the 4 wires, the 4 pins that go to the connector from the truck, and then the plug ends for the bulbs, that's it. You can buy replacement 9005/9006 pigtails, a dime a dozen wherever you prefer to purchase them. The pins for the base socket would be the only challenge if you wanted to crimp new ones in.

What I did for this years ago, was pull the existing pins out of the housing (after cutting or baking them open), snip off the old wires, solder the new pigails to them and call it a day. I don't recall the gauge, but the new pigtails were heavier than the stock wires were. :twocents:
 

mrrsm

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Oct 22, 2015
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The only Wire meant for use in Automotive Applications should meet these Minimum Standards:

(1) Solid Copper (NOT Copper Clad Aluminum).
(2) High Heat Resistance (+392 F and -140 F ) for the BNTECHGO Products.
(3) Silicone Insulation vs. Flammable Acrylic or Plastic versions.
(4) As Close to OEM Colors for ID Purposes as Possible (10 Color Bundle @ 5 Ft Lengths).


6142zzq9yeL._AC_SL1024_.jpg61X+21ml9mL._AC_SL1024_.jpg712Ag5YT9GL._AC_SL1024_.jpg61YddBSKB6L._AC_SL1024_.jpg61-vnqPADUL._AC_SL1024_.jpg
 
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Ilikemy3s

Member
Dec 3, 2011
370
Perhaps I missed something or misread .. but if the wire and connector leading to the head light assembly is good and not damaged / melted .. would it not be easier to replace the head light assembly ?
 
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TequilaWarrior

Original poster
Member
Dec 5, 2011
577
Central Pennsylvania
Perhaps I missed something or misread .. but if the wire and connector leading to the head light assembly is good and not damaged / melted .. would it not be easier to replace the head light assembly ?
You didn't miss anything. The headlight assembly for this car is in the neighborhood of $200 and up, per side, USED and in "meh" condition, when they can be found. It's a 2002 Bravada. Not a super popular variant of GMT360 and no other headlights will fit. There are no aftermarket options. There's also no front-end swap that will fit, unfortunately. $400+ for very worn housings that need polished anyway is a terrible starting position for this fix. The first thing I did was to look for new housings. I was not able to find anywhere that had new assemblies available and in stock. One place had a listing for a NOS left head lamp assembly for $1200, and no right assembly; but that listing was taken down a day later.
 

mrrsm

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TequilaWarrior

Original poster
Member
Dec 5, 2011
577
Central Pennsylvania
I'm actually contemplating something similar. The specific harness you posted would require some modifications in order to make it work.
I've got new bulbs in a cart at RockAuto and 3 harnesses in a cart on ebay right now.
1 harness for high beams, 1 harness for low beams, and 1 harness for fogs.
It might seam a little silly to add 3 harnesses but the 4 light harnesses I found would either take longer to ship or were actually just (2) 2 light harnesses connected together at the positive eyelet.
So, right now the potential plan is to skip the in-assembly wiring altogether and install a direct-to-battery relayed harnesses for highs, one for lows, and a separate one for fogs along with replacing all 6 bulbs: (2) 9005, (2) 9006, and (2) 893 - all Hella Long Life.

The problem I'm trying to solve is that the wiring inside the headlamp assembly is shot. So I need to replace the bulb sockets and wires within the assemblies. Wiring TO each assembly is fine, so I'll modify it to make the connections to these harnesses.
 
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TequilaWarrior

Original poster
Member
Dec 5, 2011
577
Central Pennsylvania
What's everyone's opinion on lights like these:

 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,687
Tampa Bay Area, FL
Never seen that style used for low/high beams. Would definitely like to see output shots if you decided to try them out,
 

TollKeeper

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Dec 3, 2011
8,084
Brighton, CO
You can still get a factory headlight harness (used). I dont know where the harness plug is, but this auction clearly shows one..



There are more listed on eBay too.. Looks like the only real difference are with and without fog lights, and maybe the ElectroViscous Fan..

Or are you needing the headlight housings? You can always polish them, and look like new if done right..

Drivers side..


Passenger




Decent ones are out there.. Just gotta find em..

 
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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,389
Ottawa, ON
What's everyone's opinion on lights like these:

100W LED or halogen, it's still 100W and could melt your stock wiring again, unless you upgrade it.
 
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TequilaWarrior

Original poster
Member
Dec 5, 2011
577
Central Pennsylvania
Tonight I took a brief run at replacing the in-assembly wiring. MAJOR FAIL. Getting these headlights open will take an act of congress and some divine intervention. I'm not baking or cutting these things either as replacements are too spendy for me at the moment. I'll drop back and punt.... looks like I'm ordering those direct-to-battery harnesses I referenced earlier. Now I'll also need to do the DRL killer (but might end up doing a fog-as-drl instead). With 300k miles on this thing, I'm not looking at pouring tons of time and money into getting my headlights to be spectacular. I'll settle for 85% of factor at this point.
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,687
Tampa Bay Area, FL
:confused: If you weren't gonna bake or cut them open, how were you trying to get to the pins to release them from the socket inside the housing?
 

mrrsm

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Oct 22, 2015
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There is another aspect to investigate along with these other Headlight Wiring Issues:

It is paramount to ONLY use the ...RARE... ACDelco OEM Headlight Relay as a replacement part to assist the PCM in controlling the DRL via Pulse Width Modulation (PWM).

2004 Chevrolet Trailblazer Headlight Cut-Off Relay AC Delco 99129MY 2003
s-l500.jpg

 

TequilaWarrior

Original poster
Member
Dec 5, 2011
577
Central Pennsylvania
:confused: If you weren't gonna bake or cut them open, how were you trying to get to the pins to release them from the socket inside the housing?
I guess I had myself convinced that the Oldsmobile lights were somehow "different"... I was wrong.
 

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