SOLVED! Grinding in the front right.

[coolride]

I sent an email to AAM (American Axle Manufacturing.) And I asked if they sell parts for their disconnect. Would be nice.

Had an idea. I attached the slide hammer to the top of the case and worked a chisel under the bottom. Little by little it worked free.

 

[TollKeeper]

Can you get a picture of the back of that housing?

 

[coolride]

This looks like the spot where it stuck. At the top where it's hard to access.


Stuck here too. this is the bottom where it was easier to work in and out with the chisel. So the oxidation is soaked with PB Blaster and WD40.

 

[TollKeeper]

Forgive me here, I dont think anyone has tried the slide hammer before. And I am shocked that it worked to be honest. That might be one to write down for future reference!

Now its just a matter of locating a new one, or pull that drive shaft, pull the shaft out of the oil pan, plug the hole, and run it (since you were talking about just running it in 2wd). You will get a code for "service 4wd system" or something like that. Its because you have the front diff actuator unplugged. You can still drive it with no ill effects other than a light on the dash.

Or fix it, with a new disconnect, and see if everything works. At this point, I would not bother with used.

There about 118ish dollars thru ebay..
eBay link
There 150 up to 500 thru amazon
Amazon link
There 716 thru Advance Auto Part
Advance link

And many other sources (partsgeek, rockauto, madhornets, etc). Cheapest is going to be ebay, just be sure you are buying one with the actuator if its needed, or if its not needed, than its just playing the pricing game.

EDIT: VERY IMPORTANT! - Pull that intermediate shaft out. If you think you are having other 4wd issues, a lot of it can come from that intermediate shaft. The teeth on the inner or outer part break off, and can make it seem like the 4wd is not working, when the shaft simply needs to be replaced. They can be bought for 75 on ebay. Other sources are also out there.

 

[coolride]

So AAM is the original part from the factory?

 

[coolride]

I sent AAM two emails. One to tech support and one to customer service. I don't understand why it's impossible to buy parts separately. Why buy the entire assembly when all you need is one part?

 

[TollKeeper]

If AAM is the OEM, the part is going to be stupid expensive from them anyways. I would think a aftermarket one would be cheaper, and just as good.

 

[coolride]

I want an inexpensive part. But not something that's junk when new.

Here's a review on a disconnect for $186. At least they have 20 reviews, so they are selling lots of them.

"Ordered in August of 2019, installed in September of 2019, garbage that is falling apart leaving pieces on ground January of 2020. Get what you pay for! Fell apart and only used 4x4 maybe 10 miles."

 

[TollKeeper]

AAM has discontinued the production. So aftermarket is likely the only thing, or NOS.

I am not having luck finding NOS either.

I did find this thou...
***Link deleted, was for AWD, not 4wd***

 

[coolasice]

AAM has discontinued the production. So aftermarket is likely the only thing, or NOS.

I am not having luck finding NOS either.

I did find this thou...
***Link deleted, was for AWD, not 4wd***

This is the one I purchased in 2018, haven't had a problem with it since.

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rover.ebay.com

Not the cheapest but it works great.

 

[coolride]

I noticed that an engine mount was just above the disconnect. Maybe a bad engine mount allowed too much movement, and led to the destruction of the disconnect?

 

[TollKeeper]

I doubt the motor mount caused the disconnect to go bad. Its just a somewhat common problem on this model. So is the motor mount.

 

[Mooseman]

I agree. It might be the case in lifted trucks because it's always at a steeper angle but the slight intermittent extra angle wouldn't do this. It's a regular failure part but it can be prevented by taking it apart and greasing it before it fails. Some have even added a grease zerk.

 

[coolride]

The disconnect end of the CV axle: Any ideas about how much wear is acceptable?

 

[Mooseman]

Just the surface that the seal rides on that seems to be chewed up or dirty. If you have the other one out, compare them. It it doesn't clean up with Scotchbrite and it's pitted/damaged, I'd replace it.

 

[coolride]

I was worried about the surface where the bearings ride.

 

[Mooseman]

That looks fine to me. It's pretty normal for that part to get shiny. No grooves or pitting, it's good.

 

[coolride]

Oxidation? Or some type of sealant?

 

[coolride]

AAM customer service replied to my email.

"Hi

Sources for individual component parts have ceased to make the parts. You can get a complete assembled disconnect unit from any Dorman distributor or Dorman auto parts store."

Senior Manager - Aftermarket | AAM

Driveline | ATDC

1840 Holbrook Road

Detroit, MI 48212

O. 313-758-4176 | M. 313-701-1582

 

[coolride]

I looked at the Dorman castings (part# 600-115.) They appear to be original AAM disconnects. The inventory at AAM, must have been sold to Dorman. BUT, the Dorman product 600-115 listed on Amazon is a casting with the markings KAG (it's not an AAM disconnect.) If you search the same part number 600-115 at the Summit Racing website, they will offer an original AAM disconect.

 

[coolride]

The Amazon Dorman 600-115.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A6RKTMG/?tag=gmtnation-20

The Summit Racing Dorman 600-115.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-600-115

 

[Mooseman]

That's expensive! I'd either get a good used one to clean out and regrease or get the US Powertrain.

 

[coolride]

That's expensive! I'd either get a good used one to clean out and regrease or get the US Powertrain.

There expensive, and also two different manufactures with the same Dorman part #.

 

[TollKeeper]

I would go with the one @coolasice suggested above.

 

[coolride]

I ordered this one. It's got a low price and a lot of reviews. (Fingers crossed.)
SCITOO
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QLSQD6W/?tag=gmtnation-20

 

[coolride]

Scitoo part has arrived. I hope this is the right part. There's not much grease. Thinking about adding more but not sure If I should use the red Mobil One synthetic that I already have.

 

[Mooseman]

Wouldn't be a bad idea. Personally, I like Lucas' red n tacky no.2. Project Farm just did a test using it.

 

[coolride]

I installed the new disco today. And also the new wheel hub. I didn't install the CV shaft.

I went out for a test drive and something is still grinding (so I know it's not the disco, the hub or the CV shaft.)

My next plan is to remove the the CV shaft on the drivers side and disconnect the diff from the transfer case. I suspect the grinding is coming from the diff. If the grinding stops after the diff is disconnected, then I have my culprit.

 

[Maverick6587]

You might want to tape/zip tie an old phone/camera underneath your truck and video record the noise. It will be a lot easier and cheaper to pin point what's making the noise.

 

[coolride]

Forgive me here, I dont think anyone has tried the slide hammer before. And I am shocked that it worked to be honest. That might be one to write down for future reference!

Now its just a matter of locating a new one, or pull that drive shaft, pull the shaft out of the oil pan, plug the hole, and run it (since you were talking about just running it in 2wd). You will get a code for "service 4wd system" or something like that. Its because you have the front diff actuator unplugged. You can still drive it with no ill effects other than a light on the dash.

Or fix it, with a new disconnect, and see if everything works. At this point, I would not bother with used.

There about 118ish dollars thru ebay..
eBay link
There 150 up to 500 thru amazon
Amazon link
There 716 thru Advance Auto Part
Advance link

And many other sources (partsgeek, rockauto, madhornets, etc). Cheapest is going to be ebay, just be sure you are buying one with the actuator if its needed, or if its not needed, than its just playing the pricing game.

EDIT: VERY IMPORTANT! - Pull that intermediate shaft out. If you think you are having other 4wd issues, a lot of it can come from that intermediate shaft. The teeth on the inner or outer part break off, and can make it seem like the 4wd is not working, when the shaft simply needs to be replaced. They can be bought for 75 on ebay. Other sources are also out there.

I used a slide hammer on the intermediate shaft and it didn't want to release (is there a circlip on the diff side?) My 4WD was working fine. The problem is I have a grinding noise in the front end. At first I thought it was the passenger side wheel bearing (bought a new one,) then I replaced the disco. And it's not the CV shaft because I didn't reinstall it, and it still grinds.

I'm thinking about moving this project over to the driver's side.

 

[TollKeeper]

If you do move it over to the drivers side, do it in steps. First take out the CV axle. This isolates it to the Wheel area entirely, by completely removing the differential. If its still grinding, you know its in the wheel end. If its not grinding, then you know it COULD be in the differential. I say could, because you would have to determine if the transfer case is still turning the front diff of not. It shouldnt be, but it can be.

 

[coolride]

I'm planning to first replace the passenger side CV shaft. Then move the truck to the other side of the garage, and get it onto jack stands. At least I have the weekend.

 

[TollKeeper]

Leave the CV axle out. If it is the diff, you might not be able to tell if the CV axle is still connected on the passenger side. Pull that drivers side, and see what your results are.

 

[gmcman]

Can you support the vehicle on jack stands and use a stethoscope?

This is what I used to remove the intermediate shaft.

 

[coolride]

Why did you remove the intermediate?

(I could use a few lengths of chain.) I suppose that my intermediate shaft could be damaged but the CV axle bearing on the diff side has a lot of free play. There's a real chance that it's the source of my grinding.

 

[coolride]

I moved to the other side of the garage (it's narrow.) Rolled the front wheel out of the way, and leaned it against the back left wheel... I heard a clunk...

The back wheel moves (push-pulling at 3 and 9 o'clock,) and something is clunking...

 

[Mooseman]

It's normal to have a little back and forth play on the rear shaft. Don't know what the spec is but it shouldn't be more than 1/16-1/8". It should absolutely not move up and down.

 

[coolride]

Seriously?,,,LOL. I never in a hundred years, would have guessed that. Mind blown.

 

[coolride]

I put a pry bar under the axle and didn't see much play (only a little.) With a stethoscope, I listened to the bearing and the diff. While turning the axle, the wheel bearing sounds awful, and the diff makes a light "click click click" noise.



Will gear oil pour out when I remove this axle?

 

[coolride]

The good bearing from the passenger side, was installed on the driver's side. Now the bearing is quiet.

I gave the diff another listen and it makes a ticking sound. It's not like anything is broken. It sounds like it might be gear teeth making contact (normally.) But it could be anything...

Anyone know if a diff usually makes a ticking noise?