SOLVED! Grinding in the front right.

coolride

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Aug 23, 2019
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I've been pushing it in, thinking that the end of axle will clear that hole in the knuckle. So it doesn't come out of the knuckle?
 

TollKeeper

Supporting Donor
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Dec 3, 2011
8,047
Brighton, CO
If you have the wheel bearing off, and one of the ball joints, than you should be able to get enough clearance to clear the hub bracket, than you pop the back end out of the disconnect housing using the tool.
 
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coolride

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Aug 23, 2019
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I have the bearing off and the upper ball joint off, and the wheel cranked all the way to the right. How do I get the axle out of the hub bracket?
 

TollKeeper

Supporting Donor
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Dec 3, 2011
8,047
Brighton, CO
Just bend the CV axle at the outside joint, and start working it out. You want the wheel cranked opposite of the side you are working on. Working on left, crank right, working on right, crank left.

EDIT: Or pop the Tie Rod end off, I personally pop it off.
 
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Maverick6587

Member
Dec 16, 2018
730
Sterling Heights, Michigan
I just pulled that out this past weekend. I used a 3 ft long pry bar in-between the disco and the CV from underneath the engine. I just got the bottom (handle) of the pry bar with a large hammer. It only took 1 hard hit.
 
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coolride

Original poster
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Aug 23, 2019
596
Adirondacks
Just bend the CV axle at the outside joint, and start working it out. You want the wheel cranked opposite of the side you are working on. Working on left, crank right, working on right, crank left.

EDIT: Or pop the Tie Rod end off, I personally pop it off.


Thanks TollKeeper, that did the trick. Ultimately, the end of the axle came out the top of the hub bracket. I was expecting it to go out the side.

I'm not sure how to get a pry bar behind the tripod. Looks like a very tight spot.
 

coolride

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Aug 23, 2019
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I just pulled that out this past weekend. I used a 3 ft long pry bar in-between the disco and the CV from underneath the engine. I just got the bottom (handle) of the pry bar with a large hammer. It only took 1 hard hit.

So where were you, when you were hitting the end of the pry bar? In front of the bumper, or over by the other wheel, or were you under the TB and toward the back?

I'm don't see a good angle to get a bar on the tripod.
 

Maverick6587

Member
Dec 16, 2018
730
Sterling Heights, Michigan
I had it jacked up on some high stands and had the pry bar angled near the driver's side. I used the following video as a guide for removing the cv axle.

I did have one time on a 97x that I could not disconnect the cv axle and had to pull the disco to get it out. That might be easier for you if you are having issues like I did and could not get it out. It would probably be easier to work on separating the cv axle from the disco once it's out of the vehicle.

In the video, he had the same problem and had to remove the disco and then separate them one it was out of the vehicle.

At 4 minutes and 51 seconds you can see how he has the pry bar angled. That's exactly how I was able to remove it.
 

coolride

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Aug 23, 2019
596
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At 4:35 the guy gets a pry bar onto the inside of the tripod (that's the tripod or the CV joint?) I noticed that the axle wiggles around in the disconnect quite alot. But he's not repairing the disco. Is this amount of play normal?
 

Maverick6587

Member
Dec 16, 2018
730
Sterling Heights, Michigan
NO, not at all. It shouldn't move in there at all (other than turning). I think he explains that the play is excessive?

Edit: That's the cv axle that goes inside the disco. I don't think I've heard it called a tripod before. Maybe others have?
 
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TollKeeper

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Dec 3, 2011
8,047
Brighton, CO
The assembly is called a CV Axle joint I believe, but the back end, where you see the 3 points, thats what I have always referred to as a Tri-Pot/Pod. But thats the point I have taken a bar, and slide it up inbetween the Tri-Pot and the Oil Pan and block, slide it up as far as you can as the Oil Pan is a bit more sensitive to blows. Once you get it wedged in there, take a dead blow hammer (its what I use) or a hammer, and with a solid whack, knock it out.
 
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coolride

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Aug 23, 2019
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I guess the inner CV joint has three "arms" with rollers. So it's called a tripod CV joint.

I'll clean up the mess I've made on the garage floor and then try to get a better look at how everything moves at the disco. I'll also check the axle on the other side and see how it moves.
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
Sorry for the late reply, but when I'm removing that CV shaft, I leave it in the hub, and remove it from the 4WD actuator first. Then with the axle nut threaded flush with the threaded part of the axle, I give it a few whacks with a hammer against a piece of 2x4 to not damage the threads.
 
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coolride

Original poster
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Aug 23, 2019
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I don't see much play in the disconnect shaft bearing. I thought I did, but know I realize I was seeing movement in the tripod. I went to the diff side and I did see some play in the shaft. I'm going to get a video of that stuff today.
 

coolride

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Aug 23, 2019
596
Adirondacks
I shot some video but that needs editing.

Here's where I'm at. The 4 disconnect bolts are out, and it won't budge. I've been prying and hammering from the bottom. I hooked a slide hammer around the back edge and it still won't break free.

Seems like it's welded on. I soaked it with WD40 and will leave it overnight. Any suggestions?
tb92.JPG
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
You should pull the axle out of the disco first unless it's really stuck in there due to damage. Try soaking the back of the disco with penetrating fluid and hit it with a hammer and punch to try and spin it in the pan hole. Do not pry it too hard or it might break in the pan hole.
 
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bfairweath

Member
Oct 20, 2013
95
Neenah, WI
Think there's a procedure on this site somewhere for setting up jack bolts to get a stuck disco off the oil pan. Or, you could try taking the rest of the bolts out of the disconnect. That would allow the case to split, with half the case going with the CV shaft and half staying welded to the oil pan. That's a last resort.

I agree with Mooseman - you want to focus on getting the CV shaft out. If it won't come out, you've found your problem. The outboard bearing are completely gone.
 

coolride

Original poster
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Aug 23, 2019
596
Adirondacks
You should pull the axle out of the disco first unless it's really stuck in there due to damage. Try soaking the back of the disco with penetrating fluid and hit it with a hammer and punch to try and spin it in the pan hole. Do not pry it too hard or it might break in the pan hole.


I've been prying and hitting with more than a little restraint. I don't feel much like breaking that pan. Soaked it with WD40 last night and will do the same this morning before leaving for work.
 

coolride

Original poster
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Aug 23, 2019
596
Adirondacks
Think there's a procedure on this site somewhere for setting up jack bolts to get a stuck disco off the oil pan. Or, you could try taking the rest of the bolts out of the disconnect. That would allow the case to split, with half the case going with the CV shaft and half staying welded to the oil pan. That's a last resort.

I agree with Mooseman - you want to focus on getting the CV shaft out. If it won't come out, you've found your problem. The outboard bearing are completely gone.

I just read through a great post by Camdo. I'll try again to hammer the shaft out. If that doesn't work, I'll split the disco case. Right now the plan is more WD40 and maybe reposition the truck on the jack stands so it's a bit higher.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
Maybe try to use the disco's case bolt holes (as pointed on the pic) with longer ones so they stick out of the disco and contact the pan. Evenly turn them to jack it out of the pan. Put something under the ends of the bolts to prevent damage and spread the force on the pan.

Disco front.jpgDisco back.jpg
 

coolride

Original poster
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Aug 23, 2019
596
Adirondacks
The shaft wouldn't budge with a slide hammer, or after hammering from the back. I removed the bolts for the disconnect case and the shaft fell right out.

This grease comes in two flavors, orange and black.
tb94.JPG

Do I have to remove this gear with a puller?
tb93.JPG

Now how am I going to remove the back side of this case from the oil pan? Does this gear need to be removed with a puller too?
tb96.JPG
 

coolride

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Aug 23, 2019
596
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The inner gear (on the oil pan) slid off with no trouble. The outer gear doesn't slide off. It feels like it's held in place by a clip or something.

I put a steel rod into the shaft's center and tried to hammer it out. It doesn't budge.
What am I doing wrong?
tb93.JPG
 

coolride

Original poster
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Aug 23, 2019
596
Adirondacks
Everything is hanging off the ground, supported between these two horses. I've been hammering down on the shaft center using a punch. The shaft won't move. It feels like there's a retaining clip or something.

What am I doing wrong?
tb97.JPG
 
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TollKeeper

Supporting Donor
Member
Dec 3, 2011
8,047
Brighton, CO
There is a circlip that retains the axle into the gear. Its supposed to take some effort, but should not take all the effort you are putting into it.

If you have a 5 lbs sledge, and a larger round punch, give it a good couple SOLID wacks with that, if that doesnt get it out, it may have metal bonded, and wont come out with a lot of work.

The problem is, if you are planning on reusing any of the old housing, its eventually going to start warping, and will become un-usable.

Right now, this is the least of your concerns, if I remember correctly, you bought a whole new disconnect, and the inner part is still attached, and bonded, to your oil pan. Getting that off should be your priority. The CV axle is easily replaceable (salvage yard or new). But that inner piece, once bonded, can be a royal pain in the ass.
 
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coolride

Original poster
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Aug 23, 2019
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The gear doesn't feel like it's welded solid. It has a small amount of movement on the shaft. Feels exactly like the gear is being held in place by a clip, but not welded. I gave it a few hits with a 2.5 pound mallet. But I'm holding back some to protect the case.

I plan to keep the disconnect. Honestly, I don't see much wrong with it. (I did buy a new wheel hub.) The internals look good and I don't see much play in the outer bearing. The CV shaft looks fairly new, maybe it was replaced by the PO. I could press new bearings into the case if that's doable.

Half the case is stuck to the pan: I want to "spin" it. But I know that the back side protrudes into a recess in the pan. Not the bore it's self, but the part that makes room for the solenoid. Is the recess in the pan big enough to allow the case to spin a little?

In case I'm not making sense, here a photo of the back of the case. It shows the axle bore, and the relief for the solenoid (lower left.) Will that move side to side in it's own oil pan bore?
tb98.jpg
 
Last edited:

bfairweath

Member
Oct 20, 2013
95
Neenah, WI
There's nothing holding that gear into the housing other than the circlip on the end of the CV shaft. IIRCC, there's a thrust washer under there, but that's it. You could try prying up on the gear (carefully) with a flathead screwdriver or something. Your idea of using a puller would work too. However, I'm having a hard time seeing how you would engage a puller to this particular gear.

Point is that prying or pulling up on that gear should be okay.

Check out the post on how to rebuild the disco on www.offroadtb.com (under Articles...Differentials/Axles). It shows exactly how to take the disco apart and put it back together.
 
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coolride

Original poster
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Aug 23, 2019
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There's not enough room under the gear for the puller to hook on. I bought some steel zip ties today at HF. They might be thin enough to slide under the gear. Then I can loop them onto the puller.
 
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coolride

Original poster
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Aug 23, 2019
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This was the plan for the puller and the zip ties. But the zip tie doesn't slide far enough under the gear to make traction.
tb100.JPG
 

coolride

Original poster
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Aug 23, 2019
596
Adirondacks
Took the project to my father's garage today. He has a 6lbs sledge.
tb101.jpg

We supported the axle and housing between two posts and then hit the shaft out with the 6 pound sledge and a punch.tb102.jpg

I have the housing cleaned up and it looks like it's covered with cracks. What the heck is the deal here? I wonder if the hammering caused them.
tb99.JPG
 
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coolride

Original poster
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Aug 23, 2019
596
Adirondacks
No way that hammering out a circlip would cause a housing to shatter like that. It's just not enough force. The casting is marked AAM 46004104. So I doubt it's the original disconnect.
 

Maverick6587

Member
Dec 16, 2018
730
Sterling Heights, Michigan
With two of those cracks being right at those two screws. I don't think I would trust it for very long if you reuse it. I would probably go grab one from a junkyard and at this point. With all the work you put into removing that one, I'd grab it from a yard that pulls the parts for you. They're around $130-$500 for a new one online.
 
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Maverick6587

Member
Dec 16, 2018
730
Sterling Heights, Michigan
Those small ones wouldn't really concern me too much but those two big ones right at the screws would be the deal breaker for me, just what I would say though. It's your vehicle.
 
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TollKeeper

Supporting Donor
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Dec 3, 2011
8,047
Brighton, CO
Alright... Now that you have the CV shaft out, go to the salvage yard, and find a GMT360 4wd (NOT AWD), and pull the outer housing yourself. Make sure its in good health in the bearing set, or if you plan to rebuild it using the method on the forum, you can do that to. At this point, there really isnt a need to pull the inner housing that I can think of. As long as the internal bearings for the pass thru shaft are in good shape, and replace all the grease inside the disconnect, I think you would be in good shape.

Am I missing something?
 

coolride

Original poster
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Aug 23, 2019
596
Adirondacks
I'm checking out salvage yards. We've had two blizzards in 5 days, so I'm not sure I could pull the part myself right now.

I'll inspect the inner bearings. If not tonight then in the morning. I took a quick glance way back, and I saw something strange (pretty sure but not 100.) I'm almost inclined to run it as 2WD for awhile. I think that the disconnect is just the tip of the iceberg. The diff might be worse (will fill you in later.)

What's involved with changing it to 2WD?
 

TollKeeper

Supporting Donor
Member
Dec 3, 2011
8,047
Brighton, CO
Taking out the drive shaft, taking out the CV joints. Plugging one hole with a Gaterade bottle cap, and I dont remember what you plug the other side with.
 

coolride

Original poster
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Aug 23, 2019
596
Adirondacks
The back of the disco case is slowly walking out. From underneath I can get a chisel under the edge and the bottom edge pops out maybe 1/8". I put a long bolt in the top in order to hold the top edge out. Lot's of PB Blaster. Will revisit later tonight.
tb106.JPG
 

TollKeeper

Supporting Donor
Member
Dec 3, 2011
8,047
Brighton, CO
That shaft in the center, you can take a bolt, and thread it in, and slide it out. It may help you in pulling the remaining piece out.
 
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