GM & GMC Full Size Truck Rusted Out Brake Line R&R Videos

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter
Video Tips & Tricks for the R&R of Brake Lines on a 2005 GMC Yukon:


Video information on the R&R of Totally Rusted Out Brake lines on a 2005 Chevrolet Avalanche:


Working Stainless Steel Lines in place can become One BIG PITA... but seeing the problems that "Rust Belt" Road Salt, Mud and Snow Sloshing all over Truck Under-Carriages leaves behind on the OEM Mild Steel Brake Lines makes one stop and think about preferring S/S over the OEM lines for such difficult R&Rs... Hands Down.
 

gmcman

Well-Known Member
Are there any tips and tricks to breaking the brake line loose from the nut without twisting the line?

Been waiting to replace my front brake hoses but cannot get the line to keep from twisting at this point here

Screenshot_20200614-084436_Gallery.jpg

Tried soaking with penetrating oil, a little heat, repeat, soaked for a week, heat, just not breaking free.

I can turn the nut, just cannot keep the line from twisting.



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OP
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MRRSM

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter
If you have prior experiences making Double Flares on Steel Tubing and can get enough room around that Wheel Well area to work... Consider just snipping off the Brake Line as close to the Brake Caliper In-Feed as possible and Clean Up & Re-Assemble and Re-Flare the Line:

But first... this preparation is required:

(1) Obtain a few Quarts of Dot-3 Brake Fluid
(2) Use Metal 'End Cutters' and a Quality Brake Line Flare Kit & Devise the means to Plug the Line.
(3) Clean up or Replace the GM OEM Compression Fitting (SLIDE over the Line FIRST, then FLARE).
(4) Replacement Pair of Pure Copper Brake Line Washers for the Banjo Fitting-Hose.
(5) Three Piece Flare Junction Kit to connect an intermediate 'Patch" of Brake Line as needed.
(6) Coil of OEM OD Nickel-Copper Brake Line (NICCOP) Practice making Flares on THIS Stuff FIRST!
 

Mooseman

Moderator
The only thing that ever really worked for me was heat from an oxy torch on the nut to the point that the rubber hose explodes out of the metal fitting. However, be careful to not apply direct heat to the metal line as you could burn through it but that can happen anyway if it's heavily corroded.
 

xavierny25

Well-Known Member
@gmcman the way I did it and it worked on both the Envoy and tbss is crack it loose like you already have, disconnect the line from the caliper. Then remove the bolt holding the flex line to the frame and instead of trying get the fitting off turn the block off the fitting. Make sure to clean the fitting really well after and see if you can get it to turn freely if not then do those steps backwards. Get the block turned onto the fitting. Once it's close to it tightest position install it back to the frame with its bolt and then give the fitting its last torque down.
 

gmcman

Well-Known Member
Then remove the bolt holding the flex line to the frame and instead of trying get the fitting off turn the block off the fitting
You know.....I can generally figure ways around things, and come up with a work around...but embarrassingly enough....I didn't think of this...thanks! I'll give it a try.

Made me think of this.

Includes bad language.

 

xavierny25

Well-Known Member
You know.....I can generally figure ways around things, and come up with a work around...but embarrassingly enough....I didn't think of this...thanks! I'll give it a try.

Made me think of this.

Includes bad language.

Lol.., hey man if it works for you like it did for me maybe the higher-ups can post it up as a FAQ and save ppl alot of time and money on replacing or repairing those hard lines.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
You know what, thinking back on my youth (and that's a long time ago!), I used to do that too.

I'll be adding this to the FAQ :2thumbsup:
 

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