Eaton Differentials - Which one?

fishsticks said:
First, check your glovebox RPO sticker for code G80. If it's present then you already have the first type of locker you mentioned. If not, you have an "open" differential.

The No-Slip (not No-Spin) is a locker by Richmond Gear. It's basically a fancy version of their Lock Right. I swapped in an 8.6" axle from and EXT after my G80 blew up. I run a No-Slip in it (and a Lock Right in the front diff). It is barely noticeable on pavement. The only giveaway is the rear tires will scrub a tiny bit when making a sharp turn from a stop on wet ground.

If you already have a G80, you'll need a new (open) carrier to install a No-Slip. If you don't have a G80, the No-Slip installs into your existing carrier.
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So since you don't have the g80 from the factory, you need to look for a No-Slip by Richmond Gear (according to fishsticks). That powertrax is a G-80 replacement, for people who already have a G80 rear end. I would also like to hear about these new sway bar links, as I am buying suspension maxx links next week and they are not cheap.
 
I don't know but apparently these new links are supposed to be engineered precisely for our trucks. I have OEM on front and Moog on the rear hotchkis and I have clunking on both of them, despite them being tightened to the max. Ever since I replaced front bushings and added hotchkis sway bar its done it. I hate to replace them since they are newly replaced and tight, but I could do without the clunking, and i dont know if that means something is wearing in particular because of the clunking, such as thread holes or something. but the suspensionmax ones look very nice.
 
Not trying to Hi-jack, But in theory. I could switch out my 3.42 G80 rear end for a Open, 3.42, 8.6" rear end from a EXT and Put in a PowerTrax No-Slip locker and have both wheels locked when in drive.... Correct? How could this effect MPG's? Also (Dumb Question) but It shouldnt affect life on drivetrain etc...?
 
03envoy said:
Not trying to Hi-jack, But in theory. I could switch out my 3.42 G80 rear end for a Open, 3.42, 8.6" rear end from a EXT and Put in a PowerTrax No-Slip locker and have both wheels locked when in drive.... Correct?
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Yes. Or you could buy a junkyard 8.6" with a G80 already installed and save $$. They charge almost nothing extra for the G80, which is indexed by some junkyards who use car-parts.com as a "POSI" even though strictly speaking it isn't LS. They just don't have a separate code for lockers, but they often include it in the description.
How could this effect MPG's?
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No possible affect on MPG, except for the 0.001 MPG you might lose by having more friction in the rear diff fluid churning around.
Also (Dumb Question) but It shouldnt affect life on drivetrain etc...?
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No chance.
 
the roadie said:
Yes. Or you could buy a junkyard 8.6" with a G80 already installed and save $$. They charge almost nothing extra for the G80, which is indexed by some junkyards who use car-parts.com as a "POSI" even though strictly speaking it isn't LS. They just don't have a separate code for lockers, but they often include it in the description.No possible affect on MPG, except for the 0.001 MPG you might lose by having more friction in the rear diff fluid churning around.No chance.
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Thanks Roadie! It may be put on the mod list:biggrin::undecided:
 
Okay now yet more conflicting information. I am under the impression the powertrax no slip rear locker that stays engaged at all times until you turn is NOT compatible with the 8.6" rear end on XL/EXT's. When I put in my truck info on this page, it too says it is not compatible, yet I keep seeing people mention this specific one.

POWERTRAX NO SLIP GM 8.6" 10 BOLT 30 SPLINE OPEN | eBay
 
I'm pretty sure at least one member has it installed. The carrier in the 8.6" is the same as far as I'm aware.
 
Getting closer to deciding to get the unit I've been looking at for a while now. Was wondering what is the best kinda fluid to use in the diff once I get this installed, or is it possible to retain the existing fluid until I need to get the fluid changed?
 
Spend 20 bucks n put in new fluid.
 
stormsurge said:
HHhmmm. A mud boging ss lol. Good reading wile in my chemo coma.
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If you are gonna go mud bogging with the SS at least do it right and put 24"s on that thing. Just helps to complete the ensemble.
 
DenaliHD66 said:
If you are gonna go mud bogging with the SS at least do it right and put 24"s on that thing. Just helps to complete the ensemble.
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I have my lifted 03 for the dirt. The ss is to nice to get dirty lol.
 
So I was close to ordering the 9207863005 Powertrax rear locker for $488 from 4wd Hardware. I called about installation rates, and they said it would take 4.5 hours to install, which would be $360 in labor. They said that estimate was for all Powertrax rear lockers.

4.5 hours to install this thing?? It almost seems like it would install in about half an hour. I'm leery of doing it myself, but like hell I'm going to pay $360 for "4.5" hours of install time.
 
DenaliHD66 said:
I'm leery of doing it myself
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you should be. does that price include bearings & seals? i think i paid around $200 labor and another $150 for all the stuff (complete overhaul). the cost of labor (by a qualified individual) is worth it

and personally i prefer an lsd over a locker on a street vehicle, but i've never driven on anything frozen
 
jimmyjam said:
you should be. does that price include bearings & seals? i think i paid around $200 labor and another $150 for all the stuff (complete overhaul). the cost of labor (by a qualified individual) is worth it

and personally i prefer an lsd over a locker on a street vehicle, but i've never driven on anything frozen
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I was told this locker was perfectly fine to drive on paved roads, and can compensate the difference in turning speeds without any ratcheting or clunking. Is there a cheap LSD available for our trucks that I could do myself? What about a front one while we're at it?
 
jimmyjam said:
you should be. does that price include bearings & seals? i think i paid around $200 labor and another $150 for all the stuff (complete overhaul). the cost of labor (by a qualified individual) is worth it

and personally i prefer an lsd over a locker on a street vehicle, but i've never driven on anything frozen
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With the powertrax unit you don't have to mess with any bearings and the only seals of concern are the two axle seals and diff cover gasket (and worst case scenario you're out $20 for axle seals).

4.5 hours to install the powertrax unit in the 8.6" rear is silly. For someone who hasn't done it before I can see it taking an hour, a little more perhaps, but 4.5? No.
 
yeah i just looked at it, looks like it just replaces the spider gears. the shop probably knew as little about that thing as i do
 
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