E-Fans

[Boricua SS]

Sorry Kyle for jumping in your thread with a question.
I am woundering if the e fans would help my heat problem too?
I am running higher than normal trans and engine temps in the heat of the summer trying to push my 35's down the road. I know some of it is because of the body lift and steel bumper + rad skid.

well since you have the V8 Jeff, its a lot easier for efans for you.. just grab the kit from pcmforless, purchase the fans, and reflash your tune.. and done...

i would do a tranny cooler (if you havent already), and i believe the 160* T-Stat can be used in your motor like the SS folks to aid in cooling hings a bit more, i know with my fans and t-stat, my temp gauge hasnt read 210 unless im stuck in traffic or idleing while parked... i read on the OS that the 5.3 and the 6.0 are very similar.. hopefully someone else will chime in on this for ya..

 

[jimmyjam]

Sorry Kyle for jumping in your thread with a question.
I am woundering if the e fans would help my heat problem too?
I am running higher than normal trans and engine temps in the heat of the summer trying to push my 35's down the road. I know some of it is because of the body lift and steel bumper + rad skid.

efans aren't going to cool better than a properly functioning clutch fan. also, if you are having issues at highway speeds then fans aren't the problem. you should instead look into an aftermarket radiator with a thicker core

Murray 432405 - Radiator | O'Reilly Auto Parts
http://www.shepherdautoparts.com/au...zer/2009/w5fDlsOaw5XDksK7w5HDlcORw5XCsw==.htm

what temps are you seeing that you are worried about?

you should also bend up some sheet metal to close the gap between the top of your radiator and the upper radiator cross member

 

[Sparky]

you mean the stock clutch fan? that would require a LARGE motor based on the blade pitch and size
my spal fans draw near 40a a piece on startup, (somewhere in the 70a neighborhood total) i don't know how much larger a motor you would be willing to use

dual speed with dual fans is possible, i'm running them in my truck. this is the way that ls1 fans run in the cars they came with (gtos, camaros, etc)
three relays, two of them switch the fans between being wired in series (low speed) and parallel (hi speed)

That's why I'm just curious what it would take.

I know dual fans is possible, but I think one reason why they don't cool as well is because our radiators were designed around using one big fan. For the Camaros, they have a longer, rectangular radiator designed for use with dual fans. But our radiator really isn't, so with the dual fans there is a lot of "wasted" radiator space that has no fan airflow.

Maybe there is a large dual speed single motor fan that is similar in fan diameter as our stock fan but more "electric friendly" than our fan blades are.

Just kicking ideas around.

 

[jimmyjam]

nah. fan size is irrelevant when a fan shroud is being used.

the bottom line is, the ls2 in the tbss was derated 5hp for clutch fan. so to put that in terms of an electric fan, 5hp ~= 3725W, at 14V thats ~256A draw. its unrealistic to have an electric fan replicate that.

 

[High Voltage]

well since you have the V8 Jeff, its a lot easier for efans for you.. just grab the kit from pcmforless, purchase the fans, and reflash your tune.. and done...

i would do a tranny cooler (if yohaven'tnt already), and i believe the 160* T-Stat can be used in your motor like the SS folks to aid in cooling hings a bit more, i know with my fans and t-stat, my temp gage hasn't read 210 unlesI'mim stuck in traffic or idleing while parked... i read on the OS that the 5.3 and the 6.0 are very similar.. hopefully someone else will chime in on this for ya..

I defiantly need to get a tranny cooler! Recommendations on a cooler? So the 160* T-stat will open sooner to cool quicker but doesn't the engine preform better or prefer the 210*?

efans aren't going to cool better than a properly functioning clutch fan. also, if you are having issues at highway speeds then fans aren't the problem. you should instead look into an aftermarket radiator with a thicker core

Murray 432405 - Radiator | O'Reilly Auto Parts
2009 Chevrolet Trailblazer RADIATOR 6.0L V8 368 | Radiator | Chevrolet Parts

what temps are you seeing that you are worried about?

you should also bend up some sheet metal to close the gap between the top of your radiator and the upper radiator cross member

Thanks! Didn't know if it would cool more or not! Hummmm bigger radiator?
Don't remember the temps but the dash hawk started flashing at the upper limit so put it in 3rd and watched the gas gage drop. It did push some fluid out the overflow. Great idea on filling the gap!!!

 

[ScarabEpic22]

if you tow then why are you going to do efans? i've got 2 12" spals on a 2" ron davis radiator and they tell you its not recommended for towing

and as far as dormans go, i had an issue with those fans and guess what, the replacement motors for OEM sets don't work with the dorman fan blades. so if one motor goes on you, you have to junk the whole kit and kaboodle. you are better off hitting the u-pull-it for some OEM fans IMO

Cause Im tired of getting shitty mileage 95% of the time aka when Im not towing. Im going to get a RD radiator and the Spal setup, if nothing else simply for more cooling. If it cant cool enough with the fans on hi (wiring a manual override in), then Ill swap back to the clutch.

Good to know about the Dorman fans, I didnt know that. If you cant find a good set of used LS1 fans, then the Dorman ones are your best bet. Ive got some 00 Camaro ones in the attic that Im saving for the 02 now.

 

[jimmyjam]

I defiantly need to get a tranny cooler! Recommendations on a cooler? So the 160* T-stat will open sooner to cool quicker but doesn't the engine preform better or prefer the 210*?
Thanks! Didn't know if it would cool more or not! Hummmm bigger radiator?
Don't remember the temps but the dash hawk started flashing at the upper limit so put it in 3rd and watched the gas gage drop. It did push some fluid out the overflow. Great idea on filling the gap!!!

Yes your first (and cheapest) mod should be closing up that 3" gap above the radiator. air being pushed against the radiator is going to follow the path of least resistance and go through that large gap, so its a good idea to try and funnel air into the radiator.
I'm not a big fan of the 160 tsat. if your cooling system isn't working at a point where, after warm up, the tstat ever closes, then it doesn't make any difference, does it? after i got my 2" radiator installed, I re-installed the 180tstat. there is nothing wrong with running an engine/trans at 190-210*, they are designed to run at that temp. however IMO if you are consistently over 200* during normal highway driving in normal temperatures, IMO you have to do something about it.

this is the trans oil cooler i had in my 02 mounted in front of the radiator, it fit in the grill area pretty comfortably.
B&M 70264 - B&M SuperCooler Oil Coolers - Overview - SummitRacing.com

another thing i do is run water wetter, and 25% coolant-water instead of 50% (but i don't think thats a good idea for yall northerners)

Cause Im tired of getting shitty mileage 95% of the time aka when Im not towing. Im going to get a RD radiator and the Spal setup, if nothing else simply for more cooling. If it cant cool enough with the fans on hi (wiring a manual override in), then Ill swap back to the clutch.

i can't help notice how often you tend to say you're going to do all sorts of high priced truck mods but... so let me pull you back to reality for a moment
my ron davis radiator with integrated spal fans costs $1199.10. plus shipping of course @$86.13 . add another ~$75 for 40a relays, 10ga wire, connectors, loom, etc. how much mpg difference do you expect, such that you'll recoup that in a reasonable time frame?

i dropped that stupid amount of money because i had no choice, i could not get my ect under 210 for the life of me; and at idle, forget it... and as engine temps rose, oil pressure dropped, either due to increased oil viscosity or expansion in the bearing interfaces, i don't know.. all i know is i don't feel like buying another engine (for this truck at least). at first i tried just the spal fans and that helped get idling temps in check, but that is all it does. at >30mph electric fans have no effect

 

[ScarabEpic22]

i can't help notice how often you tend to say you're going to do all sorts of high priced truck mods but... so let me pull you back to reality for a moment
my ron davis radiator with integrated spal fans costs $1199.10. plus shipping of course @$86.13 . add another ~$75 for 40a relays, 10ga wire, connectors, loom, etc. how much mpg difference do you expect, such that you'll recoup that in a reasonable time frame?

i dropped that stupid amount of money because i had no choice, i could not get my ect under 210 for the life of me; and at idle, forget it... and as engine temps rose, oil pressure dropped, either due to increased oil viscosity or expansion in the bearing interfaces, i don't know.. all i know is i don't feel like buying another engine (for this truck at least). at first i tried just the spal fans and that helped get idling temps in check, but that is all it does. at >30mph electric fans have no effect

I can dream here Jimmy, currently Im still a poor @$$ new college grad so every penny counts. Ive already invested the $$ into the P4L efans harness and a used set of fans plus a big 3 and 160* tstat. Ive bought these parts either 14 months ago or last Memorial Day. So the $500-600 has been spread out over a LONG period of time and is a sunk cost, I might not have the funds to install the parts this minute, but Im not broke (yet) so Im going to hold onto them. Im very realistic of the cost of mods, I sit down and budget how much I can spend on mods while Im working (summer jobs) vs how much I need to save to live off of during school, then only spend that much. And I do get carried away with a mpg or 2 here or there, especially when the mods are very expensive JUST for mileage. I was hoping the LS1 fans + harness would give me ~10hp and +1mpg (min) for only $200-250, that I can recoup a little faster when Im getting 15 at 75mph unloaded or 10 at 65 with 5k behind me.

My big plans are just that, big plans. I guess I should specify, big FUTURE plans. 2 years out minimum, likely more, after I have a solid job and have a lot of savings built up. Ive seen at least 2 guys' trucks in person who have 30k+ in them, one had north of 60k in his SS. I know if Im going to be able to afford that in the future, Ill have to do a lot of saving as well as do supporting mods. The radiator and fans are nice to have and add a few ponies now, but they will also ensure I can fit a TVS2300 in my truck down the road. Im doing the smaller mods that will nickel and dime the heck out of me (even more than I will plan for) when the "big" day comes with a built engine/trans.

Right now Ive sat on my hands because I know I wont be able to afford the RD radiator + Spal fans to the tune of $1600+, I dont have the extreme cooling issues you do down in humid FL, but central WA gets pretty toasty in the summer. Very true on the speed, at that point the natural airflow of the car should be able to take over. Well, the natural airflow isnt working on my SS currently, so Im going to spring for the RD radiator first then see if it can keep itself cool. Then, if that works, I can add efans.

 

[sevendj]

My original fan clutch was replaced in 2003 under warranty according to the service history.

(Knock on wood) It hasnt given me any problems aside from ticking at idle sometimes, which it has done the last 3 years.

My Envoy has 150,000 miles on it. When the fan clutch does finally give up the ghost, it seems to me that it would be cost prohibitive to drop a tune+e-fans+a controller+harness into it. What would the total project cost? $375+?

Wouldnt it just be more economical to buy a new fan clutch (~$100) with a good warranty? (sorry to be a buzzkill!)

Sorry, its the bookeeper in me that counts beans over here I think the idea of e-fans is awesome but I couldnt justify putting the money into a higher mileage truck. I can barely keep up with the things that keep going bad on the truck, let alone modding it

Driving 250 miles a week, starting at an average of 18 mpg, even a 1 mpg increase in mileage saves me 3 gallons a month. To simplify my math, using a $4/gal price, this saves $144 per year. It's actually even more savings if I drive the car more often (250/wk is essentially to and from work driving, that's it).

At $144 savings a year, this has the potential to pay itself (for me) off just after two years of driving it.

Just sayin'!!!!