SOLVED! Cylinder Head and timing chain headaches.
- Thread starter tucker12
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SUCCESSSS!
I Replaced the pigtail, Throttle body, fuel injector and intake gaskets and She fired up nice and quiet. Smooth as a baby's bottom. Revs good and no check engine light. [I was able to get the parts from a early 2002 Tb that was sent to the yard for getting T boned by a train, I got a hell of a deal on everything for $7] Turns out the fan was fine
She Runs great, I also threw some Liquid moly injector cleaner in the tank.
I still need to put the headlights on, Subframe, Radiator holder thingy, New power steering cooler, Hood, Change the oil and Figure out why one tire is pointed out and the other is straight.
Then God willing take her around the block
I Replaced the pigtail, Throttle body, fuel injector and intake gaskets and She fired up nice and quiet. Smooth as a baby's bottom. Revs good and no check engine light. [I was able to get the parts from a early 2002 Tb that was sent to the yard for getting T boned by a train, I got a hell of a deal on everything for $7] Turns out the fan was fine
She Runs great, I also threw some Liquid moly injector cleaner in the tank.
I still need to put the headlights on, Subframe, Radiator holder thingy, New power steering cooler, Hood, Change the oil and Figure out why one tire is pointed out and the other is straight.
Then God willing take her around the block
Well Gentlemen,
I put the whole front end together. She looks purdy.
However I have a new problem/headscratcher.
On the stands she turns left and right without issue both with and without the engine running. I bled the air out of the power steering system and its full to the cold mark.
However when the tires are on and its off the stands the driver side tire doesn't want to move at all in relation to the pass tire. The driver side just wants to turn out and stops when pointed straight, The pass tire moves each way. The tire rods are not bent and in the air she moves fine. I see no leaks anywhere in the system.
Could this be a bad pump or god forbid a bad rack? When its on the ground the engine acts like its under no load.
I will take a video tomrrow of this.
Best,
Matt
I put the whole front end together. She looks purdy.
However I have a new problem/headscratcher.
On the stands she turns left and right without issue both with and without the engine running. I bled the air out of the power steering system and its full to the cold mark.
However when the tires are on and its off the stands the driver side tire doesn't want to move at all in relation to the pass tire. The driver side just wants to turn out and stops when pointed straight, The pass tire moves each way. The tire rods are not bent and in the air she moves fine. I see no leaks anywhere in the system.
Could this be a bad pump or god forbid a bad rack? When its on the ground the engine acts like its under no load.
I will take a video tomrrow of this.
Best,
Matt
The Best Way to Test out the Steering while the SUV is back down on the ground is to do THIS:
(1) Get (4) Linoleum 12" Square "Self-Sticking" Tiles.
(2) Support the SUV on Jack Stands and Identify the 12" X 12 " Space under each Tire (Centered).
(3) Clean the Concrete surface and peel & expose Two Linoleum Tiles & press them down firmly.
(4) Apply some small amount of High Pressure Grease in the center of the "Glued Down " Tiles.
(5) Invert the Non-Stick Sides & lay the other Tiles over the "Ground Based" ones under each Wheel.
(6) Chock the Rear Wheels (Front & Back) & SLOWLY lower the SUV down on the Two Upper Tiles.
(7) Perform a Dry Motion Test: Turn the Steering Wheel & feel for any mechanical restrictions.
(8) Enter the Driver's Seat VERY CAREFULLY and then Start the Engine and let it idle.
(9) SLOWLY ...Rotate the Steering Wheel from Stop to Stop & feel if anything obstructs the Motions.
(10) Elevate & Support the SUV and remove two the Upper Tiles...Clean Off the Grease.
(11) Lower the SUV and Un-Chock the Rear Wheels.
(12) Use a Great Deal of Caution in order to avoid having the SUV SLIDING OFF of the Lower Tiles.
(1) Get (4) Linoleum 12" Square "Self-Sticking" Tiles.
(2) Support the SUV on Jack Stands and Identify the 12" X 12 " Space under each Tire (Centered).
(3) Clean the Concrete surface and peel & expose Two Linoleum Tiles & press them down firmly.
(4) Apply some small amount of High Pressure Grease in the center of the "Glued Down " Tiles.
(5) Invert the Non-Stick Sides & lay the other Tiles over the "Ground Based" ones under each Wheel.
(6) Chock the Rear Wheels (Front & Back) & SLOWLY lower the SUV down on the Two Upper Tiles.
(7) Perform a Dry Motion Test: Turn the Steering Wheel & feel for any mechanical restrictions.
(8) Enter the Driver's Seat VERY CAREFULLY and then Start the Engine and let it idle.
(9) SLOWLY ...Rotate the Steering Wheel from Stop to Stop & feel if anything obstructs the Motions.
(10) Elevate & Support the SUV and remove two the Upper Tiles...Clean Off the Grease.
(11) Lower the SUV and Un-Chock the Rear Wheels.
(12) Use a Great Deal of Caution in order to avoid having the SUV SLIDING OFF of the Lower Tiles.
Mooseman
Moderator
So let me understand this right. On the ground, the right tire will turn left to right without issues but the left tire will not? It just stays straight while the other turns? A broken inner tie rod? Failing that, only way I could see this happening is a broken rack but that would be highly unusual.
Or do you mean that you turn one way and it turns fine but turning the other way is like the engine is not running? I had that and that's a valve failure and requires replacement of the rack and pinion.
A SWB rack and pinion will work. You will just have a slower (more turns) ratio. In fact, if you get a new or rebuilt, that's what you will get as they don't offer the proper ratio one for EXT/XL or even the SS. I found an XL R&P and put it in my SWB TB. Works fine.
Or do you mean that you turn one way and it turns fine but turning the other way is like the engine is not running? I had that and that's a valve failure and requires replacement of the rack and pinion.
A SWB rack and pinion will work. You will just have a slower (more turns) ratio. In fact, if you get a new or rebuilt, that's what you will get as they don't offer the proper ratio one for EXT/XL or even the SS. I found an XL R&P and put it in my SWB TB. Works fine.
yes. Righthand side (pas) moves fine. Left hand side only turns out not in. Makes no change in noise when it refuses to turn in. I checked the tierods and they are fine. Without the tires on everything moves fine. I think somthing internal to the rack is shot. Most likely from me moving the truck with a winch with the engine removed and allowing the tires to turn every witch way.
So the non xl rack in the donor truck will work? How big of a change will the steering be?
Thank you,
Matt
Mooseman
Moderator
Yep. The rack is borked. I had the same issue. I could turn left no problem but turning right the power steering didn't work as if the pump died.
The swb rack will increase the number of steering wheel turns from 3 1/4 to 4 lock to lock. And the effort will be less.
Be sure to inspect the inner tie rods as well as inside the boots for any leaks.
The swb rack will increase the number of steering wheel turns from 3 1/4 to 4 lock to lock. And the effort will be less.
Be sure to inspect the inner tie rods as well as inside the boots for any leaks.
Well now I am stumped.
I replaced the rack with one from the parts blazer. That one worked in the truck. I put it on mine and Its still doing the same exact thing.
Could it be a bad pump?
The driver side still will not move to the right and the engine makes very little change when you turn it that direction verus the other side.
What are the signs of a bad pump? could it be not supplying enough oomph to turn both sides? I really dont want to take the rack out. As you know its quite the pain in the ass.
Matt.
I replaced the rack with one from the parts blazer. That one worked in the truck. I put it on mine and Its still doing the same exact thing.
Could it be a bad pump?
The driver side still will not move to the right and the engine makes very little change when you turn it that direction verus the other side.
What are the signs of a bad pump? could it be not supplying enough oomph to turn both sides? I really dont want to take the rack out. As you know its quite the pain in the ass.
Matt.
Mooseman
Moderator
Never heard of a pump that couldn't pump to turn in one direction but not the other but I suppose anything is possible. If you have the pump from that other TB, you could swap it out. Just be aware that the belt is different due to the bigger pulley on the SWB truck so use the one from the TB.
I ordered another rack from ebay. The one from the parts blazer absolutely refuses to turn that driver side tire any. I can push it in by hand but the steering system will not move it. I think the driver side on this one is shot like the other one. In the mean time while I wait for that to ship I am going to drain the fluid and check all the lines for leaks and whatnot.
That's odd. The rack is basically a steel rod. Think one solid piece going from tie rod end to tie rod end with a pinion to move it. Seems impossible it broke, maybe somehow the pinion stripped?
Maybe, I honestly dont understand how two racks do the same thing.
I purchased a 3rd used rack that I saw via video chat work on ebay and I am replacing the pump and fluid with a remanufactured pump. I removed the pump and found the reservoir to be full of gunk. The fluid I sucked out is a dark apple cider color. Hopefully with a new pump and lower mileage rack it works. I also bought new button seals.
I purchased a 3rd used rack that I saw via video chat work on ebay and I am replacing the pump and fluid with a remanufactured pump. I removed the pump and found the reservoir to be full of gunk. The fluid I sucked out is a dark apple cider color. Hopefully with a new pump and lower mileage rack it works. I also bought new button seals.
After you removed your first rack, did you drain and flush the power steering fluid? I guess flush is a strong word, as in drain all the fluid out via gravity through the lines that were removed, and then fill up again and allow it to drain out again.
Well I get the dumbass of the year award. Turns out my issue was not putting the big 21mm bolts on that hold that lower control arm/bracket in. when the rack was turning it pushed it out and it making it all messed up. I pushed the lower control arms in as far as they go and bolted it all up and she turns great with that new pump and fluid.
Mod edit: {Off topic content moved to its own thread}
Mod edit: {Off topic content moved to its own thread}
Last edited by a moderator:
Mooseman
Moderator
Since the original issue was resolved and this thread went off topic, which was also resolved, this thread is locked.
The new issue has been moved to here:
gmtnation.com
The new issue has been moved to here:
SOLVED! - Coolant in transmission fluid
Well I get the dumbass of the year award. Turns out my issue was not putting the big 21mm bolts on that hold that lower control arm/bracket in. when the rack was turning it pushed it out and it making it all messed up. I pushed the lower control arms in as far as they go and bolted it all up and...
gmtnation.com
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