Complete AC component replacement?

RyanEAS

Original poster
Member
Jun 21, 2014
43
I'm about to undergo some major surgery on my AC system. MOOSEMAN, any recommendations you have here are most welcome!
I have an 04 TB EXT and I plan on replacing the following components:
-Compressor
-Condenser
-Dryer
-Orifice tube
-all new o-rings/seals
-Lines to the rear AC
-MAYBE the AC lines under the hood as well.
-(And any other parts y'all recommend!)

I know for a fact the lines to the rear are corroded and need replaced. Bypassing the rear ac is not an option for me as I have kids and they need the air back there. So, now to my question:

Should I consider replacing the evaporator as well?? I really, REALLY don't want to! Tearing apart the entire dash to get to that is too much work, either on my own or paying someone to do it professionally. Would it be better to just have this component flushed? And if so, has anyone here ever flushed it out themselves? How do I go about doing that? Looking forward to everyone's answers!
 

Mounce

Member
Mar 29, 2014
13,667
Tuscaloosa, AL
Can buy a can of "ac flush" at the parts store to flush it. Blow it out vigorously with an air compressor. Also I believe you're supposed to run a longer vacuum cycle when pumping it down to fill with freon. Might be worth mentioning to the shop you take it to if you're not refilling it yourself.
 
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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,660
Ottawa, ON
Be ready for the suck when you do the rear lines. Are you using OEM or aftermarket rubber lines? Heard that the rubber ones are not that flexible and I can't imagine the OEM hard lines being any easier to use. I had trouble with just the tranny lines. I bypassed mine and no complaints from the kids except the one time an adult sat in the very back when I was using inefficient e-fans. If you do bypass it, replace the o-tube from the gold to white one and don't use recirc. Once I went back to the stock clutch fan, the A/C was ice cold.

Unless you confirm that the evap is leaking, don't replace it. I replaced mine once I confirmed that it was leaking with a leak detector. It's a full one day job. Same for the underhood lines. Haven't heard of anyone having to replace those.

Make sure your fan clutch is working properly.
How to test the electro-viscous fan clutch
 
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Chemman

Member
Jul 13, 2013
35
Maryland
I just ran across this the other day - flexible AC hose assembly for rear AC in TrailBlazer EXT's and Envoy XLs:


If you already are aware of these, my apologies.

Since it's from Dorman, I know that it can hit or miss.
 

Chemman

Member
Jul 13, 2013
35
Maryland
Matt, good to know.

As an aside, their windshield wiper transmission for 1999 Buick Centurys is junk. Dorman uses a too shallow cup to connect to the wiper motor's crank arm and it keeps popping off rendering the wipers useless.
 
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RyanEAS

Original poster
Member
Jun 21, 2014
43
I just ran across this the other day - flexible AC hose assembly for rear AC in TrailBlazer EXT's and Envoy XLs:


If you already are aware of these, my apologies.

Since it's from Dorman, I know that it can hit or miss.
Thanks Chemman, those are the ones I bought actually! 🙂
 

RyanEAS

Original poster
Member
Jun 21, 2014
43
So, ***UPDATE ***

Well today is Day #2, I'm neck-deep into the repair/replacement of all the components. Here's what I've done so far, and what still needs to be tackled:
- Rear A/C lines: I only replaced the one on the passenger side (I believe this is the low-pressure line??) Because that is the only one where I had a previously confirmed leak. I didn't bother tearing out the old hard lines... that's too much of a pain in the posterior!😉 Instead. I routed the new Doorman flexible hose underneath following (mostly) the path of the existing lines.
- New Accumulator/Drier installed.
- Old Condenser removed.
- Old Compressor removed.

So, here's where I could use some guidance from everyone!
- Any bright ideas how to remove the stud from the old compressor so I can put it on the new one? I'm going to try the "2 nut method" and see if that does the trick. I dont have a stud removal tool.

- The oil that comes in the new compressor: to drain or not to drain???

- Do you recommend pouring the new PAG 46 oil into each component? I know some has to go into the compressor, but should I put some into the condenser and/or the accumulator as well? If so how much? My research says the system should take 8.5 oz of PAG46 oil. I bought the bottle with the UV dye.

- Lastly, anyone got any bright ideas how to disconnect the rear AC line?!?! I have the bolt for it off, but the old line is still stuck on there good, and won't come off! I've attached a pic. 20200719_145710.jpg
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,660
Ottawa, ON
Why do you need the stud off the compressor? Didn't the new one come with a stud?

I remember having that same issue, which was when I gave up and blocked it off. You could try PB Blaster. Maybe some heat from a propane torch but there is foam insulation there.
 

RyanEAS

Original poster
Member
Jun 21, 2014
43
Why do you need the stud off the compressor? Didn't the new one come with a stud?

I remember having that same issue, which was when I gave up and blocked it off. You could try PB Blaster. Maybe some heat from a propane torch but there is foam insulation there.

Nope, most compressors I saw online didn't come with the bolt, which is downright stupid IMO, but,
PROBLEM SOLVED!!

I was able to figure out the bolt size for the stud, and bought a hex bolt at Lowe's, took a grinding wheel to the bold head, de-burred it, and bam! She fits! $10 fix that saved me hours of headache trying to get the old one out. For the record, the bolt I used was M10-1.50 x 6020200719_164420.jpg
 

Camdo

Member
May 16, 2015
80
It's a little late, but Dorman 675577 Double ended stud 10-1.5 x 65mm (aka exhaust manifold stud) will also work. My new Four Season AC compressor from Rock Auto came with seals and stud even thou the description did not say so.
 

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