- Jul 22, 2015
- 2,724
(I had posted this just before the update, so if you saw it - or saw a 'blank' post, as I did - that's why. Thankfully, I was able to 'edit' my post, and get all the text from the original post - no way was I typing all of this again!) Also - I now have the shock yoke and tie rod bolts off - *everything* except the caliper bolts)
In the middle of doing front suspension pieces (pretty much everything except tie rods).
At first, I attempted to drop the top of the knuckle out of the wheel well using a method I saw 'ChrisFix' use on the Tube with a TB - he hammered the outer axle end inward / loose in order to free it from the hub/rotor, and swing the knuckle out farther w/o pulling out the axle.
That didn't work well - I don't see the outer end of my axle moving back at all (yes, I have the axle bolt loosened, and the nut at the outer edge of the axle...lol). So I decided to take the other approach - remove the caliper assy, followed by the rotor / hub, then remove the shock mount bolt / tie rod end, and remove the knuckle entirely from the vehicle, where I'd then press out the upper BJ, and give myself more room for pulling the coilovers as well (I've got new HD Bilsteins that have been patiently waiting for their chance to be installed).
However (and thus, the title of this post)...the caliper bolts aren't moving - not with liberal PB sprayings, not with three different impact guns (none of which are rated > 250/lb torque, unfortunately), nor with heat from a torch, nor with the BFH striking a box end attached to the nut (18mm, btw). My 1/2 breaker is really too long to work within the wheel well, as well (unless I turn the steering out - I suppose I'll try that next).
If I didn't know better, I'd think perhaps the bolts have *never* been removed in 14 years - I know pads don't last that long, but starting to wonder if the previous owners / mechanics just removed the slide bolts & replaced the pads as needed. Rotors are OK - some minor grooving, and a bit 'thin', but definitely usable. Pads aren't down to the wear indicators, but aren't too far away - to be honest, I was probably going to put new rotors / pads on, after I finished the suspension work.
So...I started looking at HF's website to see what better options existed in 1/2" impact guns - while I hate to throw even more $ at this project, I'm willing to go get a 'stronger' gun if I have a good chance of not breaking the bolt head off (I do *not* want to get into an 'easy out' situation (who named those things that, anyway?)).
Looks like I have two choices in 1/2" from HF - a '750 lb max loosening torque' (500lb nominal), or a '1150 lb max loosening torque' (1000lb nominal). Some of the 3/4" guns have even more - but I'm not interested in acquiring yet another set of impacts, in 3/4" size, nor am I interested in spending $300 for the gun itself, for the little that I'd use it.
I figure someone else here has to have fought this same fight before me. What got your caliper bolts off? If you used a gun, what kind of torque did it have?
Some more info that may be helpful - I'm planning on replacing the lower arms/ brackets outright - and I can see from documentation that at least one of those bolts gets tightened down to 197 ft/lb (so I'm imagining I may revisit this same issue removing those bolts - provided I ever get the caliper off!)
And, yes - I need to replace the upper ball joint - I have it out of the arm and can see the boot is split open, etc. - and I have new Moogs ready to put in (but I have to press the old ones out, of course).
Anyway...thanks for reading (& any info / suggestions)
In the middle of doing front suspension pieces (pretty much everything except tie rods).
At first, I attempted to drop the top of the knuckle out of the wheel well using a method I saw 'ChrisFix' use on the Tube with a TB - he hammered the outer axle end inward / loose in order to free it from the hub/rotor, and swing the knuckle out farther w/o pulling out the axle.
That didn't work well - I don't see the outer end of my axle moving back at all (yes, I have the axle bolt loosened, and the nut at the outer edge of the axle...lol). So I decided to take the other approach - remove the caliper assy, followed by the rotor / hub, then remove the shock mount bolt / tie rod end, and remove the knuckle entirely from the vehicle, where I'd then press out the upper BJ, and give myself more room for pulling the coilovers as well (I've got new HD Bilsteins that have been patiently waiting for their chance to be installed).
However (and thus, the title of this post)...the caliper bolts aren't moving - not with liberal PB sprayings, not with three different impact guns (none of which are rated > 250/lb torque, unfortunately), nor with heat from a torch, nor with the BFH striking a box end attached to the nut (18mm, btw). My 1/2 breaker is really too long to work within the wheel well, as well (unless I turn the steering out - I suppose I'll try that next).
If I didn't know better, I'd think perhaps the bolts have *never* been removed in 14 years - I know pads don't last that long, but starting to wonder if the previous owners / mechanics just removed the slide bolts & replaced the pads as needed. Rotors are OK - some minor grooving, and a bit 'thin', but definitely usable. Pads aren't down to the wear indicators, but aren't too far away - to be honest, I was probably going to put new rotors / pads on, after I finished the suspension work.
So...I started looking at HF's website to see what better options existed in 1/2" impact guns - while I hate to throw even more $ at this project, I'm willing to go get a 'stronger' gun if I have a good chance of not breaking the bolt head off (I do *not* want to get into an 'easy out' situation (who named those things that, anyway?)).
Looks like I have two choices in 1/2" from HF - a '750 lb max loosening torque' (500lb nominal), or a '1150 lb max loosening torque' (1000lb nominal). Some of the 3/4" guns have even more - but I'm not interested in acquiring yet another set of impacts, in 3/4" size, nor am I interested in spending $300 for the gun itself, for the little that I'd use it.
I figure someone else here has to have fought this same fight before me. What got your caliper bolts off? If you used a gun, what kind of torque did it have?
Some more info that may be helpful - I'm planning on replacing the lower arms/ brackets outright - and I can see from documentation that at least one of those bolts gets tightened down to 197 ft/lb (so I'm imagining I may revisit this same issue removing those bolts - provided I ever get the caliper off!)
And, yes - I need to replace the upper ball joint - I have it out of the arm and can see the boot is split open, etc. - and I have new Moogs ready to put in (but I have to press the old ones out, of course).
Anyway...thanks for reading (& any info / suggestions)