Built 4l60e Replacement?

[DenaliHD66]

I have 100k miles on my OEM transmission, which is due for another flush and a filter change, but I have noticed it feels sluggish and hunts for gears at times, and can't make up its mind. Thinking about the future, I found this site that does rebuilds, and was wondering if anyone's dealt with these guys before.

http://www.performabuilt.com/

Or if you have any other places that would do this service. I want a transmission that can do occasional off roading, towing, and survive being driven daily by a heavy foot. I want it to be durable but it doesn't need to be able to stand up to 500+ HP, but if that comes with the territory then that's fine. Thanks for the info.

 

[gmcman]

Are you sure the fluid is full, checked when idling and trans hot, level ground?

What fluid did you use on thelast service?

I think if I don't attempt to rebuild the trans myself, I will probably purchase a trans from here

Dana knows these transmissions inside and out, I would definately build one or have one built for 500HP, you won't need to worry about it. Most of his HD trans are built that way anyhow.

Give him a call, may take a couple days for the return but he will respond.

 

[dfc739]

Hey, long time lurker, first time poster here. I was having almost identical problems as you with my transmission. It would "clunk" into drive and shuttle shift for the "right" gear while driving around town and the torque converter clutch wouldn't lockup if I gave it any gas on the highway. It was killing my gas mileage and I couldn't even get up a hill without it downshifting. It also felt like the power the engine made wasn't efficiently being put to the wheels. I like to take it easy on the accelerator but I expect the power to be there when I need it to merge into traffic at 75 mph. I took it to a transmission shop and they wanted $500 to maybe fix it. They then threw out the possibility of it needing a complete rebuild and mentioned the $2500-$3000 range. I asked for a printout of what all the quote was for and took it home to do some research (I paid them for the inspection, so I don't feel bad- especially since they really didn't do anything I couldn't have done and charged me $50). Basically all they were going to do was install a new separator plate and a new valve to fix the TCC lockup valve. It's a well-known problem with this transmission. Just do a search for P1870 and 4L60E.

So I decided that for much less than $500 I would fix it myself. I did a lot of research and decided to replace the separator plate with a TransGo (it's thicker and stronger), replace both the plastic accumulator pistons with aluminum, and put in the standard TransGo SK 4L60E shift kit. I just did this two days ago (Sunday morning) and all I have to say is WOW. I had no idea how much I was missing out on. No more clunk either! When I was disassembling it, I noticed that a couple checkballs were missing, a couple checkballs were about to go through the plate, and at least one of the plastic accumulator pistons was broken (I haven't checked the other one yet). No wonder I was having pressure problems: the fluid was probably leaking through the piston. About the only other specialty tools you'll need are a small torque wrench (the valve body must be torqued in the inch-lbs region) and a nice set of picks. I highly recommend the installation of this kit. I don't want this to sound like too much of a pitch for TransGo. I know Sonnax and I think another company make similar shift kits. At the very least you should replace the plastic pistons (the forward costs about $8 and the 1-2 accumulator costs about $3) and replace the TCC lockup valve because it's very well documented as a problem. You could also upgrade the accumulators to pinless, but I stuck with the pins. All told, I spent around $170 to install the shift kit, new accumulators, new valve body gaskets, new separator plate, the 1/4" torque wrench (cheapie but it works well), 6 quarts of Dexron VI, and the filter/pan gasket plus some time. I also got a corvette servo, but haven't had the chance to install it yet.

If there is enough interest I'll do a writeup for the installation of the shift kit. I took a ton of photos because I was beyond scared I would mess something up and completely destroy the transmission.

 

[McGMT]

Hey, long time lurker, first time poster here. I was having almost identical problems as you with my transmission. It would "clunk" into drive and shuttle shift for the "right" gear while driving around town and the torque converter clutch wouldn't lockup if I gave it any gas on the highway. It was killing my gas mileage and I couldn't even get up a hill without it downshifting. It also felt like the power the engine made wasn't efficiently being put to the wheels. I like to take it easy on the accelerator but I expect the power to be there when I need it to merge into traffic at 75 mph. I took it to a transmission shop and they wanted $500 to maybe fix it. They then threw out the possibility of it needing a complete rebuild and mentioned the $2500-$3000 range. I asked for a printout of what all the quote was for and took it home to do some research (I paid them for the inspection, so I don't feel bad- especially since they really didn't do anything I couldn't have done and charged me $50). Basically all they were going to do was install a new separator plate and a new valve to fix the TCC lockup valve. It's a well-known problem with this transmission. Just do a search for P1870 and 4L60E.

So I decided that for much less than $500 I would fix it myself. I did a lot of research and decided to replace the separator plate with a TransGo (it's thicker and stronger), replace both the plastic accumulator pistons with aluminum, and put in the standard TransGo SK 4L60E shift kit. I just did this two days ago (Sunday morning) and all I have to say is WOW. I had no idea how much I was missing out on. No more clunk either! When I was disassembling it, I noticed that a couple checkballs were missing, a couple checkballs were about to go through the plate, and at least one of the plastic accumulator pistons was broken (I haven't checked the other one yet). No wonder I was having pressure problems: the fluid was probably leaking through the piston. About the only other specialty tools you'll need are a small torque wrench (the valve body must be torqued in the inch-lbs region) and a nice set of picks. I highly recommend the installation of this kit. I don't want this to sound like too much of a pitch for TransGo. I know Sonnax and I think another company make similar shift kits. At the very least you should replace the plastic pistons (the forward costs about $8 and the 1-2 accumulator costs about $3) and replace the TCC lockup valve because it's very well documented as a problem. You could also upgrade the accumulators to pinless, but I stuck with the pins. All told, I spent around $170 to install the shift kit, new accumulators, new valve body gaskets, new separator plate, the 1/4" torque wrench (cheapie but it works well), 6 quarts of Dexron VI, and the filter/pan gasket plus some time. I also got a corvette servo, but haven't had the chance to install it yet.

If there is enough interest I'll do a writeup for the installation of the shift kit. I took a ton of photos because I was beyond scared I would mess something up and completely destroy the transmission.

Can you throw together a straight up parts list with details and links, please?

 

[dfc739]

Can you throw together a straight up parts list with details and links, please?

Sure.

Valve body gaskets $4
4L60E transmission valve body gaskets 4L60E 4L65E transmission

1-2 Accumulator piston: $3
4L60E Transmission piston 4L60E transmission 1-2 accumulator

2nd gear Corvette servo: $10
Corvette Servo 700R4 4L60E 2nd servo piston Corvette Servo

TransGo SK 4L60E shift kit: $41
4L60E 4L65E Shift kit Transgo Shift Kit 4L60E 4L65E

TransGo separator plate: $22
4L60E transmission valve body plate 4L60E transmission

Forward accumulator: $8
4L60E transmission forward accumulator piston Transmission parts usa.com

I got a cheap 1/4" torque wrench from Amazon. I think it's a Tekton. : $30
Amazon.com: TEKTON 2432 1/4-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench, 20-200 Inch/Lb.: Home Improvement

Filter/pan gasket: I think it was $20 at O'Reillys

And 6 quarts of Dex VI at $7/quart: $42

 

[Sparky]

FYI - you can get a complete kit from ctpowertrain on ebay. They include all the stuff you need - Transgo kit, plate + seals, Sonnax pinless accumulators, Vette servo, etc... a little over $100 but certainly worth it IMO. Just get a filter kit and fluid.

 

[gmcman]

Sweet!

I really think I may be having the same issues given it's age and mileage. seems like a pressure problem, occasional lazy shifts and flare but once engaged they hold.

Been told it may be a drum seal leaking and if that's the case then it's going to need a rebuild but something tells me i'm getting a pressure leak somewhere and this may be the ticket.

Either way it's worth a shot right? Far cheaper to try then perform a complete overhaul.

 

[McGMT]

Sweet!

I really think I may be having the same issues given it's age and mileage. seems like a pressure problem, occasional lazy shifts and flare but once engaged they hold.

Been told it may be a drum seal leaking and if that's the case then it's going to need a rebuild but something tells me i'm getting a pressure leak somewhere and this may be the ticket.

Either way it's worth a shot right? Far cheaper to try then perform a complete overhaul.

Transmission guys are hopelessly addicted to the rebuild it way.... Mine has a problem going up long hills at steady speed and throttle where it constantly feels like the TC pressure is fluctuating... I am chalking it up to fluid bypass...

And thank you, I have been researching different places to get the stuff...

 

[dfc739]

Either way it's worth a shot right? Far cheaper to try then perform a complete overhaul.

Exactly my way of thinking about it. If it needs a full rebuild there isn't a whole lot you can break that wouldn't be fixed by the rebuild. There are a lot of good videos out there on how to remove the valve body and install the new goodies.

 

[Sparky]

Let's put it this way, the 4L60E in my old 98 Camaro (yep same transmission as the Trailblazers) wouldn't stay in lockup when it got warm. MPG tanked on the highway. While warming up it would kick in-out-in-out-in-out of lockup a lot. Then later it started to slam, I mean SLAM 1-2 shift randomly after holding 1 a little long. Neck-jarring. Not all the time. I figured I was on the way to getting the trans rebuilt since heck the car had been so beat before I got it and the engine and rear diff had been toasted already.

Then I came across the Transgo kit. Figured what the heck, it sounds right, so why not give it a shot...

Guess what? That trans is still working perfectly now, with 168k miles on it, now residing in my 99 Camaro (long story on that lol) which is cammed and certainly puts more stress on the trans than the 98 did. Works like a champ.

I have had that kit bundle from ctpowertrain in my Trailblazer since about 120k miles. It has 163k miles and IMO shifts better than it did originally. Part of that could be due to new fluid vs old, but the nice solid converter lockup certainly isn't.

FWIW slippage could be caused by old dirty fluid too. That happened to my brother's old beater. Started slipping horribly, trans fluid was mud looking. Flushed out all the fluid (the proper way, NOT a backflush and also had a pan drop and filter replacement) and that fixed it right up.

 

[ksimm92]

If there is enough interest I'll do a writeup for the installation of the shift kit. I took a ton of photos because I was beyond scared I would mess something up and completely destroy the transmission.

I would absolutely be someone interested

 

[DenaliHD66]

Never even touched my transmission before. Should I try to do these rebuild kits myself? I wouldn't mind paying up to $1k for a complete rebuild of my tranny, but I am NOT buying a new one for $3k.

 

[Sparky]

The kit I mentioned isn't really a rebuild kit. You're only going into the valve body and nothing else. As long as you are able to keep track of which bolt goes where, tightened to the proper torque, and can follow directions, it isn't that bad. I had help but after we did ours I realized I could have done it myself. My friend's work has a lift though which made it so much easier than trying it on jackstands in the driveway.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Got me wanting to order up a kit.

 

[Sparky]

96-06 combo $151
4L60E 4L65E 1996-2006 1870 P1870 CODE BUSTER COMBO KIT Corvette Servo, Kit, Book | eBay

Or same as above minus the transmission book and the vette servo (which you can get separately for like 15 bucks and I recommend as you'll need the new seals/O rings it comes with anyway)
4L60E 4L65E 1996-2006 1870 P1870 CODE BUSTER UPDATE KIT | eBay

I'm not seeing a combo for 2007+ on there at the moment. AFAIK the main difference is the separator plate. They do have that as a separate part available. Might be worth messaging them to see if they can do a combo for 2007+. Or maybe there is a reason they don't, like the 07+ 4L60E has a more major difference that keeps that kit from working or something. I don't know really.

ctpowertrain also has their own website ctpowertrain.com - it looks like they have transmission parts and kits for almost anything imaginable.

 

[gmcman]

I want to do this, very glad you started this thread. I have been contemplating just the shift solenoids this weekend before I read this..this is giving me the push. What's to lose?? If the trans still fails in the next month..I will still have some fresh parts I will surely remove for the next build.

I already have the vette servo but it's a PITA to install because of the floorpan and I don't want to deform it just yet...may lower the trans but still a chore.

Is there a kit minus the vette servo?

When you lowered the valve body, did all the springs and check balls stay in the valve body or do some fall out from the trans? I don't want to pull the valve body and hear a "tink" and wonder which tunnel of the ant farm maze a check ball came out of..

Mine runs fine when cold, slightly hard 1-2 shift and good 2-3 shift. When warm, good 1-2 and lazy with flare 2-3 but holds tight when engaged. 3-4 shift is just slightly lazy but is good.

May also be a set of O-rings also in the valves but this is a wiser route to take and if it doesn't fix it then I will opt to rebuild the valve body, but my money is on what's in the kit.

 

[McGMT]

I want to do this, very glad you started this thread. I have been contemplating just the shift solenoids this weekend before I read this..this is giving me the push. What's to lose?? If the trans still fails in the next month..I will still have some fresh parts I will surely remove for the next build.

I already have the vette servo but it's a PITA to install because of the floorpan and I don't want to deform it just yet...may lower the trans but still a chore.

Is there a kit minus the vette servo?

When you lowered the valve body, did all the springs and check balls stay in the valve body or do some fall out from the trans? I don't want to pull the valve body and hear a "tink" and wonder which tunnel of the ant farm maze a check ball came out of..

Mine runs fine when cold, slightly hard 1-2 shift and good 2-3 shift. When warm, good 1-2 and lazy with flare 2-3 but holds tight when engaged. 3-4 shift is just slightly lazy but is good.

May also be a set of O-rings also in the valves but this is a wiser route to take and if it doesn't fix it then I will opt to rebuild the valve body, but my money is on what's in the kit.

Almost inevitable a check ball or two are gonna roll away... BUT... You can grab a illustration of where they go and use a little tranny grease to hold them in place for assembly....

 

[Sparky]

I just lowered the trans crossmember a bit to get access for the vette servo. It isn't too bad to do. Clearances are tight but doable. I was doing my trans cooler lines at the same time and had the old ones disconnected so I'm not sure if they may post any issues or not.

There is a kit without the vette servo, see my 2nd link above

Both times I've installed this kit the check balls have come down with the lower half of the valve body no problem. But even if one didn't, as long as you get it back there are diagrams in the instructions with the transgo kit as to where the checkballs go.

FWIW ever since I got my Trailblazer at 112k miles the first couple 1-2 shifts when cold are a bit abrupt. I just ease up on the gas a bit and let it slide into 2nd easier. I installed the kit and it now has 163k miles and still acts the same so I don't know what's really up with the funny 1-2 but it doesn't really bother me.

 

[Pittdawg]

FWIW slippage could be caused by old dirty fluid too. That happened to my brother's old beater. Started slipping horribly, trans fluid was mud looking. Flushed out all the fluid (the proper way, NOT a backflush and also had a pan drop and filter replacement) and that fixed it right up.

I had a B&G flush and new fluid and filter performed at the stealership. It wasn't cheap, but it did wonders to cure the slipping/clunking/hunting.

 

[DenaliHD66]

I got a transmission flush from the dealer at 50k miles.... $179 and they did NOT replace the filter, and they wanted it back every 30k miles for a flush.

Taking it to my regular mechanic tomorrow at 100k miles... $159 and they will replace the filter.

I think I might opt for a transmission cooler if I ever get a built transmission just so it'll perform and last indefinitely.

 

[gmcman]

Well this gave me the push, if I take some pics I will start another thread on it but I need to give it a whirl before I start roasting clutch pacs.

Ordered the 1-2 & 3-4 piston kit, sep plate & gaskets, both shift solenoids and already have the vette servo and I placed the order in time at the dealer to get them at 8AM when they open. Not the upgraded Sonnex parts but nonetheles they are fresh and this trans won't see another 174K. If I can get 20K I would be happy so $80 is a fair chance.

I will let you know how and if it improves my issues.

 

[gmcman]

Thank you Denali for starting this thread, with the others chiming in I didn't realize I could do this in my driveway in a short amount of time.

I will post up some pics later but the end result is very good. No more 2-3 flare and the shifts are slightly firmer and by no means rough or harsh. I replaced both the shift solenids, the 1-2 & 2-3 accumulator pistons, seperator plate, and added the vette servo. The seperator plate had some impressions from the check balls likely bleeding pressure.

Be sure to have a full roll of paper towels and some cardboard, you will get messy. I did get the seperator plate from the dealer, very nice that the gaskets are already joined to the plate. Vette servo was a chore since the cross member needed to be lowered but wasn't difficult. All in all it was rather easy and also intimidating if you haven't done this before, mainy I guess since you don't want to screw anything up.

Pics to be posted prob Sunday night.

 

[DenaliHD66]

Thank you Denali for starting this thread, with the others chiming in I didn't realize I could do this in my driveway in a short amount of time.

I will post up some pics later but the end result is very good. No more 2-3 flare and the shifts are slightly firmer and by no means rough or harsh. I replaced both the shift solenids, the 1-2 & 2-3 accumulator pistons, seperator plate, and added the vette servo. The seperator plate had some impressions from the check balls likely bleeding pressure.

Be sure to have a full roll of paper towels and some cardboard, you will get messy. I did get the seperator plate from the dealer, very nice that the gaskets are already joined to the plate. Vette servo was a chore since the cross member needed to be lowered but wasn't difficult. All in all it was rather easy and also intimidating if you haven't done this before, mainy I guess since you don't want to screw anything up.

Pics to be posted prob Sunday night.

Hope you took pictures of each step you were doing. I am a transmission newb... never even touched one before.

 

[Sparky]

Glad to hear some more success stories

 

[dfc739]

Hey guys, sorry for the delay, but work has been hectic to say the least. I just got done with my write up on how to remove the valve body and replace the accumulator pistons. It's over at http://gmtnation.com/f93/how-remove-4l60e-valve-body-replace-plastic-accumulator-pistons-4972/

 

[DenaliHD66]

Well after seeing all those pics with parts I've never seen before lying around askew, I think I'll just go until my transmission needs replaced, then I'll buy an aftermarket 4l60e with the upgrades already built into it. I think I'll turn this into my long-term project truck.

 

[gmcman]

Hey guys, sorry for the delay, but work has been hectic to say the least. I just got done with my write up on how to remove the valve body and replace the accumulator pistons. It's over at http://gmtnation.com/f93/how-remove-4l60e-valve-body-replace-plastic-accumulator-pistons-4972/

Nice job! I didn't go as far as you did with all the valves but changing some of the pistons and the sep plate worked wonders.

 

[gmcman]

Well after seeing all those pics with parts I've never seen before lying around askew, I think I'll just go until my transmission needs replaced, then I'll buy an aftermarket 4l60e with the upgrades already built into it. I think I'll turn this into my long-term project truck.

That was a great write-up and I didn't go as far as he did, but if you are slightly mechanically inclined it's really not that bad. I don't think you will need to pull all the valves but dfc had much more carnage going on in his so it was a wise choice to check everything he could.

Changing the seperator plate will likely cure your hard 1-2 shift. With my new plate and even adding a vette servo the 1-2 isn't nearly as harsh as it was before.

You could just start with the vette servo, very easy to do and will firm up the 1-2 & 2-3 and hold the bands at much higher pressures then tackle the valve body later.

There are 8 bolts on the cross member facing upwards, 4 on each side. Above them are two 18MM bolts and you need to remove both of the 18MM bolts on the pass side and only one on the drivers side, leave the outside 18MM bolt intact on the drivers side. You can leave it tight or just barely loosen it, I feel the cross member is easier to manage with it snug.

Place a floor jack under the cross member after you remove the eight 15MM bolts, then work on the three 18MM bolts. A combination wrench on the back side and an impact on the front worked best, I used a 19.2V impact and it did the job.


Use a prybar and lower the pass side enough to see this bolt hole. It will be easier if you lower it enough to fully expose the hole...slightly more than this.

Use a prybar to press against the cap and push the cap into the case. There is an opening facing down and you can get a screwdriver in there to pop the retaining ring out. Here's a video on replacing the servo, you just need to use the vette servo in place of the stock one. Keep track of how the pieces came out and you will be fine. When replacing the retaining ring, be sure to wipe down the groove it sits in and clean the ring itself. It will be much easier to have someone pry the cap inward while you secure the ring. I wish I had more pics but I was rushed and my hands were covered in trans fluid.

[video=youtube;4WpjGQnEixo]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WpjGQnEixo[/video]

This shows the re-install but the latter half is not needed, just make sure you can work the cap against the spring when it's reinstalled.

[video=youtube;YfPgBUH6Ru0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YfPgBUH6Ru0[/video]

This article is also helpful.: Corvette Shift Servo Install w/ pics - Chevy Truck Forum | GMC Truck Forum - GmFullsize.com

Will add more later but this is where I purchased my vette servo

 

[OctaneRider03]

I think this just had adverse effects on me. I think I'm about to buy a whole new unit and just install myself once we go pick it up.

I know, I know.. But I'm not up for doing any more "rebuilding" for a while..... Pulling the engine to pieces was enough for me...

I suppose I don't mind blowing the money on a tranny.. I'm thinking it needs to be fortified before Solace kicks off anyway..

Great thread!!

 

[dfc739]

Well after seeing all those pics with parts I've never seen before lying around askew, I think I'll just go until my transmission needs replaced, then I'll buy an aftermarket 4l60e with the upgrades already built into it. I think I'll turn this into my long-term project truck.

I agree that if you're not comfortable with performing it, you shouldn't. However, I remember feeling the exact same about a month ago. I watched videos, read everything I could get my hands on, and finally ordered all the parts. Of course, saving money and not giving any more money to the local ripoff transmission shop was a pretty strong force pushing me to do this.

There are 8 bolts on the cross member facing upwards, 4 on each side. Above them are two 18MM bolts and you need to remove both of the 18MM bolts on the pass side and only one on the drivers side, leave the outside 18MM bolt intact on the drivers side. You can leave it tight or just barely loosen it, I feel the cross member is easier to manage with it snug.

Place a floor jack under the cross member after you remove the eight 15MM bolts, then work on the three 18MM bolts. A combination wrench on the back side and an impact on the front worked best, I used a 19.2V impact and it did the job.

Great writeup on the corvette servo replacement! Did you have to loosen the catalytic converter? I looked around while I was under there and it looks like the back of the servo assembly might hit the exhaust when pulling it out. And how low can you drop the transmission/transfer case? Enough to clear the exhaust?

 

[gmcman]

I think this just had adverse effects on me. I think I'm about to buy a whole new unit and just install myself once we go pick it up.

I know, I know.. But I'm not up for doing any more "rebuilding" for a while..... Pulling the engine to pieces was enough for me...

I suppose I don't mind blowing the money on a tranny.. I'm thinking it needs to be fortified before Solace kicks off anyway..

Great thread!!

You would benefit greatly from a built tranny if you are going to boost the motor. Early upgrade trumps later repair.

 

[gmcman]

Did you have to loosen the catalytic converter? I looked around while I was under there and it looks like the back of the servo assembly might hit the exhaust when pulling it out. And how low can you drop the transmission/transfer case? Enough to clear the exhaust?

The only piece I removed was the small heat shield bolted to the side of the tranny next to the cooler lines, two bolts and it falls off.

After that, you only need to lower the crossmember as shown, leave everything else attached since there is play in the motor mounts and driveshaft.

Remove the servo cover, then pull the 4th apply piston, the remainder of the pieces come out as one with the shaft. The little spring inside goes back easier of you place it over the piston assembly, otherwise the pointed shaft tries to enter the spring on the side of the spring.

I recommend this upgrade to everyone.

 

[gmcman]

---

Here's the vid I promised.

http://gmtnation.com/f24/vette-servo-installed-4997/#post95178

 

[Pittdawg]

I'm not seeing a combo for 2007+ on there at the moment. AFAIK the main difference is the separator plate. They do have that as a separate part available. Might be worth messaging them to see if they can do a combo for 2007+. Or maybe there is a reason they don't, like the 07+ 4L60E has a more major difference that keeps that kit from working or something. I don't know really.

I have spent hours and hours on the internet in search of a detailed breakdown of all the factory upgrades performed over the years to the 4L60e. I'm shocked there isn't more information. The best info I have found is that sometime in or about 2002 GM "began incorporating" the stronger components from the 4L65e into the 4L60e. It's not at all clear to me if all these "components" were incorporated at one time in 2002, or, if over the years more and more of these "stronger components" were gradually/increasingly incorporated. Additionally, I could not find any information as to what exactly these "stronger components" consisted of. There also appears to be further upgrading between MY07 to MY08. I'm perplexed as to why this information is not readily available.

To make a long story short, I suspect factory 07+ 4L60es are stronger than earlier years and there is no need to use the rebuild kits designed for the older units.

 

[misterhyde]

96-06 combo $151
4L60E 4L65E 1996-2006 1870 P1870 CODE BUSTER COMBO KIT Corvette Servo, Kit, Book | eBay

Or same as above minus the transmission book and the vette servo (which you can get separately for like 15 bucks and I recommend as you'll need the new seals/O rings it comes with anyway)
4L60E 4L65E 1996-2006 1870 P1870 CODE BUSTER UPDATE KIT | eBay

I'm not seeing a combo for 2007+ on there at the moment. AFAIK the main difference is the separator plate. They do have that as a separate part available. Might be worth messaging them to see if they can do a combo for 2007+. Or maybe there is a reason they don't, like the 07+ 4L60E has a more major difference that keeps that kit from working or something. I don't know really.

ctpowertrain also has their own website ctpowertrain.com - it looks like they have transmission parts and kits for almost anything imaginable.

Sorry to resurect an old thread. In the kits linked to here, I don't see mention of the Shift Solenoids being included. But further down the thread, and in other postings I have seen, it is recommended to replace them.
I have an 05 with 120k miles and it has some issues with the transmission. I want to do all that I can if I am going to go all the way to the separator plate.

Anyone know how I can test that I have good flow threw the cooling lines and radiator?

 

[Sparky]

I only replace them if the solenoids are having an issue. Most of the time, the solenoids are good for the life of the transmission and other stuff fails before them.

 

[misterhyde]

I only replace them if the solenoids are having an issue. Most of the time, the solenoids are good for the life of the transmission and other stuff fails before them.

Only, now, any help on determining if the solenoids are bad? It shifts into all gears.....is that a good sign? lol

 

[Sparky]

Yeah pretty much if it shifts into all gears fine then the solenoids aren't shot.