Brakemotive drilled and slotted rotors. (pics)

blazinlow89

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2012
2,088
Well you cannot make every body happy.

These still work just as good as the day I put them on.

Salt+oxygen/moisture=severely corroded metal. Also remember zinc is just a coating, it wears off. Of course this depends on the environment as well.
 

MDBT

Member
Jan 26, 2012
223
Sparky said:
You're going to get that noise with slotted rotors. Brakemotive is right, that's normal for them. And it really doesn't surprise me the zinc coating didn't last well through winter, salt is hard on stuff like that.

Sounds like mostly superficial complaints to me however - the most important thing IMO is how well they stop. My original brakes were crappy, I didn't like them, and they were rusty too anyway. These stop better.

Complaint or not, it's nice to know the limitations/drawbacks of this setup for those like me looking on who might be interested in buying them. Such posts are more useful to me than another post saying nothing but "they're great" without qualification or explanation. Before the complaints and your reply I wasn't aware that slotted rotors produce additional noise or that the zinc coating wouldn't last a winter in a salt state. That tells me right away there's no point in having the zinc coating and that I should look deeper into whether I want slotted rotors. If they create additional noise and make the disc weaker is it really worth that difference in stopping power? As for the drilled holes, they're aesthetic only for my application. This drone/noise, I assume it's only during braking yes?

My point is that I appreciate the effort put forth by any and all that provide thoughtful input regardless of the sentiment or point of view.
 

SBUBandit

Member
Dec 5, 2011
597
MDBT said:
If they create additional noise and make the disc weaker is it really worth that difference in stopping power?

Just my own experience, but i don't notice any difference in noise stopping or otherwise. To me, even if there was a small noise while stopping, I would still have done it. Since day one I've always felt the TB was dangerously underbraked. I live in a community on a 55mph road, and making the dive from 55 into the turn lane and into my park was a bit rediculous before. I love the new brakes, had them about 6 months, and feel much safer now.
 

blazinlow89

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2012
2,088
MDBT said:
Complaint or not, it's nice to know the limitations/drawbacks of this setup for those like me looking on who might be interested in buying them. Such posts are more useful to me than another post saying nothing but "they're great" without qualification or explanation. Before the complaints and your reply I wasn't aware that slotted rotors produce additional noise or that the zinc coating wouldn't last a winter in a salt state. That tells me right away there's no point in having the zinc coating and that I should look deeper into whether I want slotted rotors. If they create additional noise and make the disc weaker is it really worth that difference in stopping power? As for the drilled holes, they're aesthetic only for my application. This drone/noise, I assume it's only during braking yes?

My point is that I appreciate the effort put forth by any and all that provide thoughtful input regardless of the sentiment or point of view.

I have not heard a drone noise when braking with them, the only time I hear noise is when I brake excessively hard. It sounds more like the sound of linear electromagnetic brakes on a roller coaster, than a drone.

As for the coating, it is just that a coating. Any brakes you buy are coated with something, it wears off. All brake rotors rust as well, it is just a matter of time.

I love them, they "feel" like they stop quicker, and they look nice. For the money I would buy another set if needed.
 

tbuckalew14

Member
Nov 20, 2011
380
This is the 2nd set of slotted rotors i've had. Neither of them made any sort of noise(neither set was from brakemotive). 1st set paired with a good ceramic pad worked out great for a few years. The 2nd set I had, I used the free brake pads. They wore down incredibly fast(about 3-4months), and the rotors when braking feel warped. I never noticed a huge stopping difference in blank rotors - slotted rotors.
 

MixMastaMM

Member
Dec 14, 2011
23
Just purchased a set of front and rears. Looks like my pads did not come with any hardware. Did anyone else get shims/hardware with their pads?
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
MixMastaMM said:
Just purchased a set of front and rears. Looks like my pads did not come with any hardware. Did anyone else get shims/hardware with their pads?

The metal spring clip thingies? No, but mine were in good shape. I've only ever gotten new spring clips when buying a replacement caliper. I never got a set with new pads even when I got pads from the retail store.
 

MixMastaMM

Member
Dec 14, 2011
23
Sparky said:
The metal spring clip thingies? No, but mine were in good shape. I've only ever gotten new spring clips when buying a replacement caliper. I never got a set with new pads even when I got pads from the retail store.

OK. Just checking if I lost something! Off to the garage to do all 4 wheels!
 

Pittdawg

Member
Dec 5, 2011
538
blazinlow89 said:
Here are some installed pics.

View attachment 4970

View attachment 4971

View attachment 4972

I know they are not the best pics, but the stock wheels do not allow much viewing area.

Initial impression, they are f-ing awesome, braking feels drastically improved. Then again my old ones had the factory rotors on and they had a nice wobble feeling when braking. They do look real nice too.

I will get better pictures when I have time to go actually take care of giving it a nice bath, and some polish.

My stock brakes have that same "wobble feeling". Does this mean they are going bad? They have always functioned that way since I bought my Envoy used with 38K on the odometer :confused:
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
Wobble...warped...
 

tokahao

Member
Dec 9, 2011
79
Just got mine installed yesterday and did the break-in. I took a couple pics afterwards and noticed that the front rotor surface is wider than the pads. Has anyone else noticed this? I have a LWB... perhaps I was sent the wrong set of pads or maybe the wrong rotor! :eek:

You can't tell from the pics, but there is a 4th hole in the drilled sequence. The 1st picture shows that hole right below the pad.

View attachment 21074
View attachment 21075
View attachment 21076

If this is normal for BrakeMotive, can anyone recommend a bigger brake kit or pads to take advantage of the surface area of the rotor?
 

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SBUBandit

Member
Dec 5, 2011
597
tokahao said:
If this is normal for BrakeMotive, can anyone recommend a bigger brake kit or pads to take advantage of the surface area of the rotor?

I'm pretty sure this is the case with every set of brakes I've ever seen on a GMT360, its just that you're looking closer now and noticing it
 

Yendor

Member
Jul 9, 2012
6
Are those that purchased back in May still having good luck with these rotors? I have about 45k on a set from these guys about 3 years ago and I want to plan out the new set for the wife's truck. I would love to get the Brakemotive deal if they are still quality.
 

ksimm92

Member
Apr 28, 2012
166
I am definitely gunna get these next time!!!:yes: I have the duralast rotors and pads, they are probably at 50-60% left.
 

blazinlow89

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2012
2,088
Yendor said:
Are those that purchased back in May still having good luck with these rotors? I have about 45k on a set from these guys about 3 years ago and I want to plan out the new set for the wife's truck. I would love to get the Brakemotive deal if they are still quality.

I think I am at about 10k miles on them since install, no issues, they do have a slight chirp when I first drive with them. This may also be because I do not drive the truck as much as I used to, between the girls new Jetta and moving closer to work I might burn $30 in gas every 2 weeks. Before I was doing about 600-800 miles a week, now I am at like 350 a month if that. Other than any of that they still stop like they did the day I installed them, and the have still not rusted. Then again it has been pretty dry.
 

Opeth

Member
Mar 25, 2012
177
I've used higher end drilled and slotted rotors from BAER, Power Slot and Stillen, neither of those ever gave me the same drone noise I got from these. I don't know the quality of pads these are either, I am going to assume "cheap grade," I've also always used HAWK HPS pads with those rotors and would recommend them to anyone. I didn't have the funds when I needed the brakes last fall, which I why I gave them a try.

Anyways..... Since that last post I have towed my boat a few times and honestly haven't noticed any huge stopping difference over the stock rotors, except they haven't warped yet. My boat fully loaded is around 3,300lbs. I haven't tested them out in the mountains with the boat yet which will be in a couple weeks.

The drone is still there but not as noticeable as before.

Overall.... They stop my truck and boat, haven't warped yet after 9k miles, are pretty dust-less, and the drilled holes haven't developed heat cracks yet. They are rated as just "O.K" by me since they function. If I were to buy them again, I think I would throw the pads right out and buy a high end pad like the HAWK HPS.
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Granted I've never used the Hawk pads but have you used the pads that these brakes came with? They seem to do quite well in my experience. I've had them for some time now and no stress cracks either (I was skeptical about the cross drilling).
 

Opeth

Member
Mar 25, 2012
177
Sparky said:
Granted I've never used the Hawk pads but have you used the pads that these brakes came with? They seem to do quite well in my experience. I've had them for some time now and no stress cracks either (I was skeptical about the cross drilling).

Yes, I installed the pads that came with the rotors. I worked for advance auto while in college and to me these pads just seem like their silver, bottom of the barrel grade. Once in a while they squeak too for no reason. Hadn't rained or wasn't humid. I guess what I am trying to say, Something just isn't consistent.

The BAER's I had, actually we're designed to spin the complete opposite way these are. The slots would actually spin into the pads instead of away. Those rotors and pads were an amazing combo, but also double the price.

BAER's

462cdd20.jpg


Stillen

a09d1c0b.jpg
 

SBUBandit

Member
Dec 5, 2011
597
Opeth said:
The BAER's I had, actually we're designed to spin the complete opposite way these are. The slots would actually spin into the pads instead of away.

I do agree most of the ones I've ever seen are the way you describe the BAER's. I suppose there is nothing stopping you from putting them on the other side, then they will spin that way.

Opeth said:
Those rotors and pads were an amazing combo, but also double the price.

This is the big issue I think, since these are about the same price as going over to the parts store and buying 4 cheapo rotors. The other issue. Most companies only make aftermarket brake stuff for the SS, and while you can convert to the bigger SS style rotors, if you have factory 16" wheels, you are pretty much SOL.

I can't say much for the pads themselves, as I had a set of Monroe Ceramics on hand when I bought the rotors
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
No don't swap them side to side. The slot direction doesn't matter, but the vane direction inside the rotor does matter. If you have them backwards they won't cool properly.
 

Yendor

Member
Jul 9, 2012
6
Thanks for all the input guys, I think I am going to go for it again, when the time comes that is.
 

BoldAdventure

Member
Jun 28, 2012
1,634
I run these on my Corvette and my brother in law has a set on his Corvette as well. Great rotors and the pads are great too. Brake Motive makes an excellent product. I'm currently running Hawk's Cermanic's on the Trailblazer, but I'll be switching over in a year when these wear down.
 

bullguy

Member
Aug 14, 2012
63
Ok I'm hearing a lot of conjecture, and people are STILL blowing money on shitty rotors, so I will tell you all why blank rotors are better.

The reason for the creation of cross drilled rotors initially was to remove the "gasses" from the brake pads. HOWEVER, most of your modern brake pads (Axxis metal, AEM semi-ceramic) do NOT produce gasses when heating. This was on bad brake pads used in the 1950s and 1960s. Back then, asbestos was also used, and we don’t use that either.

The other reason is so called heat dissipation. I don't have my physics and thermo books with me, but the logic is that the holes in the rotor are supposed to allow the brake pad to cool. So...air gets into the rotor from the inside of the vents. If you have a back rotor which is solid, air gets into these holes how? If you’re stopped, you are leaving air inside these holes sandwiched between the pads, thus creating air with a rising temperature. It’s increasing in pressure from the heat, which I guess you "could" call a gas that would affect braking. So the cross drilled rotors do not remove any gasses formed by brake pads (because there are none created anymore) but could possibly inhibit the creation of "hot spots".

Cross drilled rotors have LESS contact area because of the holes.
But if the rotor is cooler, its better, right? Well no, because these rotors are not cooler. The heat is generated from the pad/rotor contact. What removes heat the most effectively? When stopped or moving, the pad transfers heat into the rotor because it’s made of cast iron. The rotor has a lot of surface area and even vanes in it. But the little holes allow air in this surface contact, and you can transfer more heat into a solid big *** chunk of cast iron more than you can into the air. Don't believe me? Touch some steam at 150 degrees, then touch a piece of hot metal which is at 150 degrees. Which burns your hand? The metal. So let the heat transfer into the metal, because since it has so much more surface area, dissipates better.

Safety!!
Cross drilled rotors can crack! I have seen them!!

Even racing teams will recommend AGAINST cross drilled rotors:
http://www.livermoreperformanc....html


Companies that sell cross drilled rotors that are redrilled may not be structurally sound. I have actually seen pictures of rear Integra rotors that have had hairline cracks turn into the rotor actually breaking apart!

Do your homework. Even Porsche and Ferrari will admit that the cross drilled rotors they use are for looks. So if you are one of those kids who thinks the little holes look cool, get a name brand drilled rotor like Ferrari does. The REASON Ferrari's 'holed' rotors are alright to use is because they are CAST with the holes in them, so they are not actually drilled into cast iron rotors. Cheap drilled rotors are not safe, and even the good ones are not necessary. Why do Ferrari do it? People THINK they want it, and it sells. If you don't believe me, go into the business world. You will learn that pretty soon, you can sell utter **** if people THINK it’s better.

Information I gathered from http://www.pdm-racing.com/prod....html
says:


"KVR Cross drilled Rotors

Why should you upgrade to cross drilled rotors?

Simply stated, the function of any vehicles brake system is to stop the vehicle. This is accomplished by absorbing the kinetic energy stored in the moving vehicle, and converting it into heat. The friction caused by the brake pad rubbing on the rotor is the source of this heat. The more quickly and efficiently that heat can be absorbed and dissipated, the more quickly and efficiently the car will stop.

There are several contributing factors to this heat reduction. One of the most common sources of heat is from the gases produced by the bonding agents of the brake pad burning off. Under severe braking, this can actually produce a boundary layer of gas that pushes the pad away from the rotor, which can lead to excessive brake fade. The cross-drilled holes or slots in a rotor provide an escape path for these gasses (de-gassing or out-gassing are common terms), and allow the pad to stay in contact with the rotor. As well as de-gassing, cross drilling or slotting will provide better wet weather braking as water is swept through the holes, or down the slots.

A vented rotor can be viewed as an air fan. When in motion, the vents draw air from the center of the rotor outward. This air flow, over an increased internal surface area, effectively dissipates rotor heat. Cross drilling adds to this air flow, as well as providing additional rotor surface cooling. "

This company is just telling you that the rotors may be cooler, however they fail to mention that the holes really do create a more than substantial decrease in surface area, thus less braking, thus less heat created, thus the less heat CREATED will leave the rotors cooler, the holes barely do anything! Its the less braking lowering the temperature!

Slotted rotors-
Find me a company that uses stock slotted rotors. They remove brake dust, but if you study braking systems, you find that with modern cars, flat blank rotors and semi-ceramic pads, the brake dust causing the rotor to slip on it is almost non-existent. But the brake dust doesn’t need all those lines. Notice how most front brake pads (and most back) have that line down the middle to give essentially two bite points. If OEM or racing companies found it to be a benefit, they would do it.

PROOF OF IT ALL:

Find me an F1 car as of now that uses cross drilled or slotted rotors.
They all use full ceramic rotors and ceramic pads. Are they drilled or slotted? No.

If they helped the fastest cars in the world, wouldn't they use them? Its basic calculations that show the lack in surface area does not make up for the possible loss in temperature. They use brake cooling air ducts instead.

BIG BRAKE KITS:
Some have asked if the big brake kits are worth it. This is sort of a relative question, but the simple answer is no. Regarding the big ones with drilled rotors, if you know that they are cast that way, at least they won’t crack. I will still advice against them.
In terms of a big brake kit, I have seen some for Civic DX models. Civics have the small pad, small caliper, and a 9.5" rotor. The big rotors are 12" in diameter, ok so the overall diameter is close to that of an Acura RL (1999). But the sweeping area (the area that the pad can grab) is still the same if they use the same caliper and same pad. If you have the same pad and caliper, you are using the same rotor surface, just farther out, so it will increase braking from stock. However, if you were to change knuckles, etc., and get Acura RL caliper (larger piston than your civic DX piston), RL pads (much bigger and taller), and RL rotors 11.8" but much more surface area is touched, then you have a better brake setup because you have OEM parts, and a better grip on more area of the rotor. The downfall is added weight (since big brake kits are usually 2 piece and lighter) but the benefit is that you have so much more stopping. Ok, so the big brake kit will have less unsprang and rotational mass (so a little better acceleration but less braking), but they tend to run over a grand, and you can use OEM parts to build a better setup for half that.

IN CONCLUSION:
Don't buy slotted or cross drilled rotors, blank are better, and stop better. Physics people, get me my formulas and help me out here.

If you must get rotors with designs on them, get the slotted ones by a good company, and DON'T get blank rotors redrilled with little holes all over them. IF you absolutely must have the rotors with holes cause you like em, get them from a company that casts the rotors like that. I have seen rotors break and this is for your safety!

REMEMBER......
Your car will only stop as fast as your tires will allow. All the braking in the world won’t work if your tires are bald and on ice!!
 

blazinlow89

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2012
2,088
We have all heard the same myths legends and truths. However when you have all of the members on this forum and others with millions of logged miles, the consensus has always been that money wise the Brake motive kit is the best bang for your buck.

Also if memory serves me right we have only had one member with an actual cracked rotor, we have been using them for 4-5 years now. Say what you want, regurgitate information if you want but other members as well as myself have used these, abused them and many would buy another set in an instant.

That being said enjoy your holiday.
 

IllogicTC

Member
Dec 30, 2013
3,452
I understand the concerns behind having less actual contact area with the holes/slots existing in the rotor, but there's trades to be made here. It also bears mentioning that the 3/8" "plug" or whatever of metal that's removed by the actual drilling reduces the amount of mass available to dissipate heat to.

But we really do need to look at both sides of the coin here.

All that mass removal? It DOES decrease the overall mass the brake system has to dissipate heat to. But on the other hand, given appropriate setup and angles and whatnot, can increase airflow through the rotor. Whether the overall effect evens out, increases cooling, or decreases, is likely heavily dependent on design. The other part of drilling rotors is that it CAN increase braking power in wet conditions, and let's be honest anyone who uses their TrailBlazer even in DD scenarios will face wet conditions now and again, and that's before we get into offroad applications.

I myself would prefer a pure slotted rotor over one that's been drilled. It also removes some of the mass, sure, but does increase surface area to dissipate heat to, and may improve pad "bite" characteristics by keeping the surface clear and clean. I'm not entirely sure how it stacks up in wet conditions, but I would imagine having some sort of channel to push water vapor out of along the length of the pad may improve wet operation performance.

As for "big brake" kits, even using stock everything except rotors, you should see a benefit. Essentially the forces acting out in the brake system before we get to the heat dissipation is a lot like a lever. Hook a rod up in a 90-degree angle to an air motor, then hold the rod 9" from the end connected to the motor and apply air, and try keeping it still. Now hold the rod 12" from the connected end and retry. One could use a force gauge to get actual quantification of the forces at work, but simply-put it's going to be easier the further out you go. While a rotor isn't a lever in the strictest sense, one could imagine it like a valve handle. If you've got a water valve that's a pain to close, install a larger valve and tell me it isn't easier to get the same desired performance.

The other benefit to using "big brake" is while your contact area remains the same and whatnot if everything else is stock, you ARE dealing with a larger mass of cast iron to dissipate heat to. That's the whole worry in severe braking - that the rotor will get too hot and cause brake fade. If you have more mass to send that heat to, you can reduce overall operation temperature.


Final note: On the analogy of the "steam vs metal at 150 degrees," remember that the cast iron is only playing the immediate middleman. The heat still needs taken out of that iron too, and that's why air still has a say in the system. Replace your computer's heatsink with a block of solid aluminum. While there's a lot more mass to put the heat to, your CPU will still likely fail after some time at heavy load because there's just no surface area to keep the heat moving. Let's use a garden hose for example:

The pressure of the water entering the hose is representing the amount of heat the brake system is generating at the pad/rotor.
The inlet of the hose represents the dissipation of that heat into the rotor.
The internal pressure of the hose represents the current thermal energy stored in the rotor.
The outlet of the hose represents the dissipation of the thermal energy in the rotor to the air.

If you've got high pressure at the inlet and are sticking with simple solutions that have no chance of providing a better cooling effect which is like almost completely clogging the outlet, let's see how long your hose lasts.
 

tbuckalew14

Member
Nov 20, 2011
380
I honestly can't feel any braking difference in drilled rotors or blank rotors. I have noticed a huge difference in decent pads vs. the ones that come with the sets. I did take a gamble on the brakemotive pads a year ago and they need to be replaced already(less than 10k miles). The akebono pads I had lasted about 3 times as long.
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
I like my drilled rotors...braking was improved and can not find a drawback in my real life experience.

Bigger brakes on the platform are proven to work... I don't give a shit about Honda civic crap.
 

blazinlow89

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2012
2,088
tbuckalew14 said:
I honestly can't feel any braking difference in drilled rotors or blank rotors. I have noticed a huge difference in decent pads vs. the ones that come with the sets. I did take a gamble on the brakemotive pads a year ago and they need to be replaced already(less than 10k miles). The akebono pads I had lasted about 3 times as long.

I have no issues with the pads that are shipped with the Brakemotive kit, however I would agree that brake pads can be a night and day difference. As for stopping distance differences between the oem slabs, and the d/s we need a guinea pig who wants to get us distances before and after.
 

IllogicTC

Member
Dec 30, 2013
3,452
blazinlow89 said:
I have no issues with the pads that are shipped with the Brakemotive kit, however I would agree that brake pads can be a night and day difference. As for stopping distance differences between the oem slabs, and the d/s we need a guinea pig who wants to get us distances before and after.

This is a very valid point. Bonus points for having temperature equipment on-hand (laser or probe) so that the guinea pig can take measurements after running controlled stop scenarios (let's say 25-0, 60-0, multiple 60-0, maybe long downhill testing too) so we can peer a little deeper into the facts behind the actual cooling.

If the guinea-pig has access to high-end stuff, like outboard camera mounts and a thermal camera, that would be mind-blowing but not necessary for our backyard tests. Would be cool though. Hint hint
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Yes drilled can be more prone to cracking, however whatever Brakemotive does must be right because a cracked Brakemotive rotor is very rare.

I've had decent life span out of my sets of Brakemotive pads and rotors.

I seem to recall someone using an IR gun to compare rotor temperatures of a drilled rotor vs a blank with the same pads, and the drilled rotor was indeed cooler due to cross circulation of the air while the rotor is spinning. Yes, the drilled rotor has less mass (all else being equal) but if it isn't drilled with a billion holes like some rotors are it isn't that much of a difference.

Besides, we really aren't driving high performance F1 race cars or anything.
 

blazinlow89

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2012
2,088
Sparky said:
Besides, we really aren't driving high performance F1 race cars or anything.

Bingo.

Even if they shave 5ft off the stopping distance they work, with the bigger tires I need every inch :biggrin:.
 

Playsinsnow

Member
Nov 17, 2012
9,727
Get the brakemotives with EXT mod.
 

BoldAdventure

Member
Jun 28, 2012
1,634
HARDTRAILZ said:
I like my drilled rotors...braking was improved and can not find a drawback in my real life experience.

Bigger brakes on the platform are proven to work... I don't give a shit about Honda civic crap.

:iagree:

The argument against sounds about as solid as the guys who used to argue that drum brakes were just as good as disc brakes. No, they don't put them on F1 cars. They do put them on Corvettes, Porsches, AMG Mercedes, M series BMW's, Ferraris, Lambo's etc from the factory. These engineers didn't do it just becuase it's "cool" looking.

Yes, increased surface area and more pistons do improve efficiency. Heat reduction from cross drilled can actually save brake fade.

If you're a guy with larger tires try slamming on your brakes 10 times in a row from 60mph and heat those things up and tell me there is no such thing as brake fade.

x2 for the EXT brake upgrade with the brake motive, only thing I wish I could do is find a 4 piston caliper that will fit my 17inch rims.

Mine:
new_caliper.jpg
 

blazinlow89

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2012
2,088
Playsinsnow said:
Get the brakemotives with EXT mod.

Then I need new wheels, and tires, then I would need new axles to get even bigger tires. Then that would give me a reason to get a body lift .

One thing I've learned is that what sounds good and works on paper is not the same as real life.
 

BoldAdventure

Member
Jun 28, 2012
1,634
blazinlow89 said:
Then I need new wheels, and tires, then I would need new axles to get even bigger tires. Then that would give me a reason to get a body lift .

One thing I've learned is that what sounds good and works on paper is not the same as real life.

Why would you need new wheels and tires and axles? A guy on ORTB did the upgrade and got them to fit in the 16 inch wheels, he even posted in my How To on ORTB.
 

blazinlow89

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2012
2,088
mikekey said:
Why would you need new wheels and tires and axles? A guy on ORTB did the upgrade and got them to fit in the 16 inch wheels, he even posted in my How To on ORTB.

More of a want, just being a smart ass. However I will have to check out the how to. When my buddy with rainier was looking buying my oem wheels they were to tight.
 

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