Best quality ball joints

[bfrench]

Hi, Folks,

I have 107,000km (66,500 mi) on my 2005 EXT LT Trailblazer and the dealer says there is wear starting in the upper ball joints and recommends changing the tie-rod ends also.

Who makes an excellent replacement part for these and is it worth while going to a superior quality if I'm keeping the TB for another 100,000 km?

TIA

 

[Sparky]

I've had Moog everything for about 56k so far and zero issues with them yet.

 

[jrSS]

Recommend?? Are the tie rods bad?? Or are they trying to get into your wallet?? Lol

 

[bfrench]

I've had Moog everything for about 56k so far and zero issues with them yet.

I have a certain queasy gut feeling that it is a net thrown on the waters of my wallet looking for large greenbacks - I'm going to an independent shop next week for a front end check not telling him anything the dealer said.

Frankly I'll be very surprised to see that much wear with so little mileage especially with all of it being highway usage.

From what I've been able to find searching the 'net tonight, it seems as if Moog have a good reputation - still looking for validation.

Thanks for the replies.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Moog is average quality. I found their parts to be no better than the stuff on ebay.


It does sound like they are wanting to do more that you need. At 100K miles my ball joints and tie rods were fine even with some fairly decent offroading.

 

[seanpooh]

I hear the diesel guys using Rare Parts tie rods and ball joints. I checked the prices on their parts and they are certainly at a premium, a bit more than Moog. I haven't used their parts though, yet.

 

[v7guy]

I've never had a problem with any of the MOOG stuff and I've been using them for over 10 years. In fairness though, i've used some of the cheaper stuff on occasion and never seen any negatives because of it. I'd be a bit leery of the $8 ball joints, but that's just me. YMMV

 

[6716]

At 195K, only the right upper ball joint was bad. I decided to replace both UBJ at the same time, and that's when it was clear that the left side was still good while the right was clearly shot. I've seen a method posted here for checking the ball joints where you jack up the truck and try to move the tire, and maybe I wasn't doing it right, but that didn't seem to show the problem on the side that was shot.

I went with Mevotech, and I guess they are OK, but the zerks and the bolts at the UCA are both rusty after just one winter. Glad I saved the original bolts for the UCA, I'll be putting those back on. I suppose the zerks would be easy enough to replace as well.

 

[Billdaman]

Hi, Folks,

I have 107,000km (66,500 mi) on my 2005 EXT LT Trailblazer and the dealer says there is wear starting in the upper ball joints and recommends changing the tie-rod ends also.

Who makes an excellent replacement part for these and is it worth while going to a superior quality if I'm keeping the TB for another 100,000 km?

TIA

At 135 K I replaced the originals with AC Delco Upper Ball Joints, AC Delco Tie Rods and although I don't have the stomach to tackle the installation just yet, to be installed in the future, AC Delco Lower Ball Joints. All have zerk fittings, All were purchased at Amazon for ridiculously low prices. Have not driven on them yet but they all these parts are Made in USA so I give that a premium, and expect great service life.

This was in addition to replacing the entire strut /spring/mount assemblies.

This work is a serious PITA first time, if your vehicle is a 9 year old northeast truck like mine, I would not tackle this job without a impact gun, a ball joint kit and adapter set, pitman arm puller, tie rod puller, a breaker bar, a massive pry bar, a BFH, PB Blaster and lots of patience. Second time around tackling this job I would say no problem!

 

[Magyver]

Moog is one of those brands that has always been synonymous with good quality but who knows where stuff is made anymore, and price doesn't really dictate the best part . I tend to go on the cheap side and take the risk of early failure, but most of the time it's fine. It is a pain though to do the work twice but expensive stuff isn't guaranteed any better, all of it is usually lifetime replacement. Grease fittings are a plus though.

 

[bfrench]

Hi, Guys,

Thanks for all the replies.

Had the truck inspected today at an independent shop - upper and lower ball joints both side have at least 3/16" of play possibly more - left outer tir-rod also has wear.

It's going in next week for repairs. Replacement parts are aftermarket of higher than OEM quality - not sure what he uses - I'll find out later today when phones with estimate.

I couldn't believe that there is that much movement on the ball joints and no indication in the driving feel - no rattles, shimmy or squeaks

One additional item I should have added at the original post - I'm using 255 70R17 Goodyear Wrangler AT tires and 1-1/2" wheel spacers - now I'm wondering if the additional spacing makes the ball joints wear faster.

 

[6716]

I couldn't believe that there is that much movement on the ball joints and no indication in the driving feel - no rattles, shimmy or squeaks

It wasn't until I tried to get an alignment that my shop said they couldn't because the UBJ was bad. Otherwise I wouldn't have known on that specifically. And I wouldn't have needed an alignment if I hadn't just done the strut assemblies.

A few folks have noted that the suspension wears a little at a time, so it's hard to notice. When I started replacing suspension parts I was amazed at how different the ride turned out to be.

My neighbor has the Buick GMT360, had to borrow his to run back to the parts store while mine was up on stands -- he's at 130K and he could stand a complete suspension overhaul, since it drives like mine did before shocks & struts (& UCA/UBJ/rear springs). He was surprised to hear me say that, he didn't think much was wrong.

"While you're at it ...."

You might consider new lower control arms with lower ball joints. The metal of the arm is still probably good, but the bushings in the bracket wear is the story I've heard. Maybe see what it would cost for new LCAs with the LBJs already installed vs just replacing LBJs. It's a lot of work just to get at the nut on the LBJ (at least how I was doing it) so maybe you may as well. Dunno.

Or a third opinion from another shop.

 

[bfrench]

You might consider new lower control arms with lower ball joints. The metal of the arm is still probably good, but the bushings in the bracket wear is the story I've heard. Maybe see what it would cost for new LCAs with the LBJs already installed vs just replacing LBJs. It's a lot of work just to get at the nut on the LBJ (at least how I was doing it) so maybe you may as well. Dunno.

I just talked with the service guy and he doesn't think there will be any if much wear at all - but if it is he'll make it good.

This service shop has an excellent reputation - a small back country racing shop family owned with excellent references from a few gearhead friends of mine - also he did the suspension lift for me a few years back and everything seems fine since then,

But, like a lot of things, it's a turkey shoot.

Like your choice of colours - emerald jewel metallic. Mine's the weiner dog version EXT LT

 

[bfrench]

I just got the quote for the work.

Moog ball joints upper and lower - both sides

Tierods - inner and outer -both sides

Wheel alignment

Labour

Total including taxes - $1666.75

Youch

 

[6716]

I just got the quote for the work.

Total including taxes - $1666.75

Youch

Certainly cheaper to teach yourself to wrench.

If I were in your shoes, I would buy the AC Delco ball joints upper and lower, the ones that don't need to be greased. It's easier down the road, plus the greasable ones are cheaper 'til you remember you have to buy a grease gun and grease, and there goes some of your savings, plus you add some fooling around.

That's $250.

Any tie rod ends you want are under $75 total for the two, and you're at $325.

Don't bother farting around with replacing the ball joints in your own garage, you'll hate it and it won't be worth how long it takes you.

Take off the wheel, the caliper, the rotor, and the hub. Free the steering knuckle from the upper control arm, lower control arm, and tie rod outer. Remove the strut yoke from the lower control arm. Remove the lower control arm from the bracket.

Take your wife's/neighbor's/friend's car with the steering knuckle and lower control arm to the shop down the street. You might get them to pop out the old ball joints and install the new ones for $100 ... say $125.

You're at $450.

Go back, replace the tie rod outers.

Put everything back together.

Alignment for $100 tops, you are at $550 and an entire weekend working on the truck.

Announce on this site when you are about to dive into the project, and then scream like a pussy in a new thread when you get stuck. Use all caps and lots of exclamation points. Somebody is likely to throw out some useful ideas.

That's how I do it, anyway.

 

[bfrench]

Certainly cheaper to teach yourself to wrench.

If I were in your shoes, I would buy the AC Delco ball joints upper and lower, the ones that don't need to be greased. It's easier down the road, plus the greasable ones are cheaper 'til you remember you have to buy a grease gun and grease, and there goes some of your savings, plus you add some fooling around.

That's $250.

Any tie rod ends you want are under $75 total for the two, and you're at $325.

Don't bother farting around with replacing the ball joints in your own garage, you'll hate it and it won't be worth how long it takes you.

Take off the wheel, the caliper, the rotor, and the hub. Free the steering knuckle from the upper control arm, lower control arm, and tie rod outer. Remove the strut yoke from the lower control arm. Remove the lower control arm from the bracket.

Take your wife's/neighbor's/friend's car with the steering knuckle and lower control arm to the shop down the street. You might get them to pop out the old ball joints and install the new ones for $100 ... say $125.

You're at $450.

Go back, replace the tie rod outers.

Put everything back together.

Alignment for $100 tops, you are at $550 and an entire weekend working on the truck.

Announce on this site when you are about to dive into the project, and then scream like a pussy in a new thread when you get stuck. Use all caps and lots of exclamation points. Somebody is likely to throw out some useful ideas.

That's how I do it, anyway.

I'd have done that a few years ago but now have rheumatoid arthritis along with both knees replaced and limited mobility.

It just busts my balls to have to get someone else to do the work - but that happens with age.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Damn near $1500 in labor

 

[bfrench]

Damn near $1500 in labor

That's about the way I look at it - and that's the cheapest of four quotes - may be a lousy economy but someone's making money.