AC Fail

freddyboy61

Well-Known Member
#1
My AC failed a couple of days ago (just in the middle of hot and humid weather of course). Checked all obvious things, fuses, low pressure side, jumped low pressure switch (compressor did engage). Thought maybe the lines to the rear HVAC unit had leaked, so I decided to bring it to a local shop. They found the condenser was leaking, rear unit lines were good. Replaced condenser and did a full service on system. Have Coolness again!
I had just last week replaced the Power Steering oil cooler because of leakage. Northeast winter corrosion does a wonderful job on our vehicle!
Also had them replace all four sway bar end links (sourced from Detroit Axle), they had become loose again. They also found passenger side upper ball joint bad, replaced both sides. Performed an alignment. Total bill was pretty large, but work was done well and in a timely fashion.
 

C-ya

Well-Known Member
#2
Yeah, I'm kinda trying to decide how much longer to keep mine due to Michigan winters taking their toll. I really like it, but it will soon be costing more to keep it on the road than it does to make a payment on a newer vehicle. Maybe I'll try to find a newer model.

Forgot to mention, I am getting ready to replace the lines for the rear A/C if they can be removed from the rear. The fronts have already been off and on when my heater core got replaced a couple of years ago.
 
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freddyboy61

freddyboy61

Well-Known Member
#3
I understand that replacing the AC lines going to the rear unit can be a real chore because of routing issues. At the factory they probably installed them before the body was put on. If you don't care about cooling the rear area, then you can always block those lines off.
 

C-ya

Well-Known Member
#4
Yeah, 7.5 hours book labor. I'm getting flexible replacement lines to run along the bottom from the front to the back. We'll see how it goes.
 
#5
Yeah, 7.5 hours book labor. I'm getting flexible replacement lines to run along the bottom from the front to the back. We'll see how it goes.
Interested to see how that goes. My rear lines are still in good shape for now, and I use the rear system almost every time I use the front one. Turn the 2nd row roof vents forward to blow on the necks of the front seat passengers :biggrin:
 

C-ya

Well-Known Member
#6
My plan is to have the lines ran when I take it to my mechanic. All he'll have to do is suck it dry, switch the connections, vacuum it/hold it, and refill. I'll take pics when I run the lines.

I use the rear all the time as well, just to cool the mass of air in the beast. I never thought of turning the 2nd row vents to the front.
 

mntegra01

Well-Known Member
#7
If the rear lines get shot and you know where it is leaking, you can get the system evacuated, go to junk yard and find the part of the line you need, splice in the good used line and get it recharged.

hardest part is getting the tool that just clamps a fitting onto the line. We sell the fittings. J-41425 is the tool number. You might be able to rent it from a place like AST www.automotivespecialtytool.net It will certainly be cheaper than $1000 at a dealer or shop.

nevermind, AST does not list that tool. .... either way it is still cheaper than buying a whole line set that you don't need when the repair is a splice anyways. These lines come separate and have to be spliced even at a dealer.
 
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freddyboy61

freddyboy61

Well-Known Member
#8
About a week after having the AC repaired, I noticed that the air coming out of the vents was not really cold any more. I noticed that the Accumulator was not getting cold at all. Went back to the shop and had them check it out. Later in the day they called and said driver side was not cold but passenger side was cold. I said this is not possible because I got no cold air out of the front venta or the rear vents (I have a Envoy XL). They wanted to change the actuators, I said no way is it an actuator. They kept the truck till the next day and when I called about it, they said they ran the HVAC calibration and all is good now. I really can't believe that cured the problem I experienced. So far it is working OK since last Friday.
 

C-ya

Well-Known Member
#9
I read somewhere (here maybe?) that if the freon charge isn't right, you could get side to side temp differences. I actually bought a new temp actuator for the driver's side (not installed yet) as it doesn't get as cold as fast as the passenger side does. I'll have to check the counts via Tech II and see what it shows. I think my freon charge is off a bit (low), but I'm planning to wait until I get the new rear hoses.
 

wstuckey1

Well-Known Member
#10
I read somewhere (here maybe?) that if the freon charge isn't right, you could get side to side temp differences.
Pretty sure this is true. My dad explained how it happens a while ago but I've forgotten by now. :duh::dunce:
 
#11
I can't see how a low charge could cause temp differences side to side as they both get their "air" from the same single evaporator. Only thing I could see causing that is the actuators/flaps not directing the cold air properly on the one side.
 

Mike534x

Well-Known Member
#12
@Mooseman Isn't there like two actuators? one that controls air flow to the vents and the other that controls the air temp? I know I may be mistaken, but it was something like that wasn't it?

I know mine blew a little warmer on the driver side until I followed the HVAC reset you (?) posted sometime ago.
 
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freddyboy61

freddyboy61

Well-Known Member
#13
There is only one Mode actuator (for selecting front vent or floor direction, and there are two temperature actuators (driver's side and passenger side).
 

m.mcmillen

Gold Supporter
#14
I can't see how a low charge could cause temp differences side to side as they both get their "air" from the same single evaporator. Only thing I could see causing that is the actuators/flaps not directing the cold air properly on the one side.
It happens. The evaporator will not get cold all the way across so that’s how it will get cold on one side and not the other. I had an a/c leak and the passenger side would stop cooling. That’s how I knew it was getting time to charge again.
 

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