Never... Ever attempt to bypass the A/C High Pressure Cut-Off Switch. It is designed to prevent a catastrophic, explosive rupture of the A/C System.
You really need to get off of “The A/C Guessing Game Diagnostic Carousel” and hook up the suggested A/C Manifold Gauge Set next...and see what the Hell is actually going on inside of your A/C System before you take another step. Trying to access and Test the High Pressure A/C Switch on your SUV before hand will be a lot like trying to take your pants off over your Head… to remove your “T” Shirt.
At 5:24 and again during re-assembly at around 13:50 in this Youtube Video… you can catch a few glimpses of the location of the A/C High Pressure Switch where it screws into the back High and Low Line A/C Lines Connection Manifold at the top back of the Compressor. You can’t just reach down inside there to run DMM diagnostics on the A/C HP Switch with ease here… GM never wants any problems like these getting solved by the Owners.:
But Jesus Palomino… If you have to go this deep into gaining access to the A/C HP Switch… and if you have confirmed and are convinced that the A/C Condenser Coils and Orifice Filter Tube are NOT completely Clogged with Crap… Hell… you might as well R&R in a Brand New OEM A/C Compressor
after flushing the High and Low Lines and the Condenser Coils
first with Compressed Cans of A/C Flush and installing a Brand New Accumulator; each of them pre-filled with 2-3 Ounces of Fresh PAG 46 Oil.
Then likewise… pre-fill the Brand New. OEM Quality Compressor with 2-3 Ounces of PAG 46 Oil, cycle that Oil at LEAST (10) Times by manually turning over the Compressor Innards and then install the damned thing and be done with it.
Do NOT Flush the A/C High and Low Lines and Condenser Coils filled with Old Crap and Metal Particles from an Old Damaged Compressor AFTER installing a Brand New Compressor ...unless you want to wind up having to buy TWO of them when all of that MUNG enters the New Compressor and destroys it. You should Flush those A/C Lines... AFTER you first pull out the Orifice Filter Screen Tube and Isolate the Accumulator-Drier and Evaporator Coil from the rest of the System. Then discard the Old Accumulator-Drier and install a Brand New one filled with 2-3 Ounces of PAG 46 Oil.
One final thought here is that you should NOT follow this Yo-Yo’s procedure of willfully installing a Sub-Par Compressor and then also failing to R&R the Orifice Tube AND the Accumulator on purpose as a matter of course. His customer-owner here will be back to see him in about five to six weeks after he did this otherwise instructional Video to find out why his A/C blows Hot Air so soon after this Repair Job. If you wind up doing this job…
RTFM! And follow it Chapter and Verse for this R&R;
HVAC High Pressure Switch Basic DMM Diagnostics:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JXWqWt1qot