4x4 Diagnosing

[TJBaker57]

There is no solenoid in this actuator. It employs solid state circuitry.

When power is applied to the device, battery voltage at the brown, pin D, and ground to the black, pin C, the device takes pin A, the control wire, "high" to battery voltage or thereabouts.

When this "high" is taken "low" by grounding, then the device activates its' motor and drives the plunger out.

One thing that can be done to verify the backprobing is to NOT ground your test lead at first, but instead check for voltage there.

 

[TJBaker57]

20241102_121338.mp4

drive.google.com

 

[benjaminblazer]

There is no solenoid in this actuator. It employs solid state circuitry.

When power is applied to the device, battery voltage at the brown, pin D, and ground to the black, pin C, the device takes pin A, the control wire, "high" to battery voltage or thereabouts.

When this "high" is taken "low" by grounding, then the device activates its' motor and drives the plunger out.

One thing that can be done to verify the backprobing is to NOT ground your test lead at first, but instead check for voltage there

20241102_121338.mp4

drive.google.com

So i already tested this correct? I think that should prove that the actuator is bad.

 

[TJBaker57]

So i already tested this correct? I think that should prove that the actuator is bad.

If you are certain of your test results then yes, this would prove the actuator has failed.

One questionable area is whether or not the backprobing is actually making contact. It is not always clear that the needle is actually getting connected. This is why I did things just a little different in this last video. I prove that the probe(s) are making contact.

 

[benjaminblazer]

If you are certain of your test results then yes, this would prove the actuator has failed.

One questionable area is whether or not the backprobing is actually making contact. It is not always clear that the needle is actually getting connected. This is why I did things just a little different in this last video. I prove that the probe(s) are making contact.

If i were to buy a new actuator, what one do you recommend, i was thinking this dorman one from amazon. Also if i were to plug it in and switch on 4H should it plunge right away?

 

[benjaminblazer]

If you are certain of your test results then yes, this would prove the actuator has failed.

One questionable area is whether or not the backprobing is actually making contact. It is not always clear that the needle is actually getting connected. This is why I did things just a little different in this last video. I prove that the probe(s) are making contact.

 

[TJBaker57]

I cannot personally say if one unit is better than another. I have never had to replace an actuator. And I get most everything I need from the U-Pull&Pay where such items are like $10.

 

[benjaminblazer]

I cannot personally say if one unit is better than another. I have never had to replace an actuator. And I get most everything I need from the U-Pull&Pay where such items are like $10.

Just don’t wanna get a used one that might go bad like this one

 

[flyboy2610]

Earlier today I ordered a GM Genuine part from Rock Auto. $101 + shipping.

More Information for GM GENUINE 12471631

 

[TJBaker57]

Earlier today I ordered a GM Genuine part from Rock Auto. $101 + shipping.

More Information for GM GENUINE 12471631

I recognize that "AAM" logo... the same manufacturer made the original disconnect assembly as well.

Over $100 !!

I'll keep getting my stuff from the U-Pull, thank you.

 

[benjaminblazer]

I recognize that "AAM" logo... the same manufacturer made the original disconnect assembly as well.

Over $100 !!

I'll keep getting my stuff from the U-Pull, thank you.

So when i replace the actuator should i clear out all of that grease? If so how should i go about, also i lost the harness lock clip(white thing that prevents the harness from disconnection.) Anywhere you know i can find this?

 

[TJBaker57]

So when i replace the actuator should i clear out all of that grease? If so how should i go about, also i lost the harness lock clip(white thing that prevents the harness from disconnection.) Anywhere you know i can find this?

I would say it not necessary to clean out all of that grease. Might be worth wiping out some of it at least though.

I must say I am not familiar with the locking clip.

 

[benjaminblazer]

I would say it not necessary to clean out all of that grease. Might be worth wiping out some of it at least though.

I must say I am not familiar with the locking clip.

After replacing the actuator, 4H and 4L work! Thanks for all your help everyone and especially you TJ! Just found out my power steering pump is going bad though so onto the next project!

 

[c good]

Thanks for videos. I've always wondered how the disconnect worked.

 

[benjaminblazer]

Apologies to thread jack but after seeing exactly how the actuator works, is it better to be driving slow before switching to 4 Wheel Drive? Even though I've read the owners manual on engaging 4x4 my old school habit of stopping, putting it into neutral, then shifting into 4x4 has always seemed safer. Now I'm wondering if it might be better to just drive slowly and let the actuator engage instead of potentially clashing the gears. I've always stopped, shifted into neutral when disengaging 4x4 also just to be extra cautious.

Iv heard under 40 is the rule for 4H but for low you always have to be in neutral. For 4H i always do it at either stopped or low speeds haven’t noticed a difference but im sure TJ knows!