I have a 2006 trailblazer LS 4x4 with a v6.The vehicle has been making a tapping noise from the engine compartment for a few weeks have not been able to track it down,the other day the vehicle stopped running and wont idle. I have to give it gas to keep it running and it runs rough when it does run.HELP!.Thanks in advance.
2006 Trailblazer ticking noise now wont run
- Thread starter CASHKJ
- Start date
C-ya
Member
- Aug 24, 2012
- 1,098
Welcome! First off, your engine should be the I6 (or L6) 4.2L, not a 4.3L V6 engine. If you do indeed have a V engine, it would most likely be the 5.3L V8, with the other option being the 6.0L V8 if you have an SS.
Next, since you are describing an idling issue and going on the assumption that you have an I6, you most likely need to clean your throttle body. When they get dirty, they greatly affect idle quality. Not sure what the ticking was, but I doubt it would make the engine not idle. Something to hunt down and fix for sure, but I bet the throttle body being dirty is your non-idling culprit.
Next, since you are describing an idling issue and going on the assumption that you have an I6, you most likely need to clean your throttle body. When they get dirty, they greatly affect idle quality. Not sure what the ticking was, but I doubt it would make the engine not idle. Something to hunt down and fix for sure, but I bet the throttle body being dirty is your non-idling culprit.
How many miles, any other maintenance history, and is your SES (check engine) light on?
All fluids checked and within spec for replacement interval?
All fluids checked and within spec for replacement interval?
You are right C-ya it is a inline 6 not v my type-o.There are around 85000 miles on it and yes the engine light has been on was told the light was on for some kind of emissions.Since the vehicle is having a problem running I was concerned that the tapping may have been a valve.
C-ya
Member
- Aug 24, 2012
- 1,098
Yep, a valve or rocker could cause the engine to be down a cylinder, which would be noticeable/detectable, but I don't think one cylinder should make it not idle enough to barely run. Heck, a 4-banger will run on 3 decent enough to keep itself going.
Try to get the code read. If nothing else, try to get to an Auto Zone or the like. They'll read it free, and of course, try to sell you the fix. If you know anyone who has a code reader, even better.
Try to get the code read. If nothing else, try to get to an Auto Zone or the like. They'll read it free, and of course, try to sell you the fix. If you know anyone who has a code reader, even better.
I can't stress how important it is to get the code read and share the specific code with us. And the fluid change history. Please let us know about that. 85K miles can be a great time to change the plugs, which are due at 100K, and can cause all sorts of misfires. Or a plug well could be filled up with oil or water and causing misfires. It's time to dig deeper into it, rather than drive around with a SES light on and *hope* it's not something expensive like a burned valve or a bad ring.CASHKJ said:
I got the codes and they are listed below:
Engine/Transmission Diagnostic Trouble Code Information
MIL DTC
P0300Engine Misfire Detected
Stored Codes
P0017Crankshaft Position (CKP) Exhaust - Camshaft Position (CMP) Correlation
P0300Engine Misfire Detected
P0894Transmission Component Slipping
Pending Codes
P0014Camshaft Phasing System Malfunction
P0017Crankshaft Position (CKP) Exhaust - Camshaft Position (CMP) Correlation
P0300Engine Misfire Detected
P0894Transmission Component Slipping
Doesn't look good!
Engine/Transmission Diagnostic Trouble Code Information
MIL DTC
P0300Engine Misfire Detected
Stored Codes
P0017Crankshaft Position (CKP) Exhaust - Camshaft Position (CMP) Correlation
P0300Engine Misfire Detected
P0894Transmission Component Slipping
Pending Codes
P0014Camshaft Phasing System Malfunction
P0017Crankshaft Position (CKP) Exhaust - Camshaft Position (CMP) Correlation
P0300Engine Misfire Detected
P0894Transmission Component Slipping
Doesn't look good!
All of those items have been addressed at one point here or on our former hangout at trailvoy.com. But I wish you could read my posts completely, and answer all the questions people might put to you.CASHKJ said:
Are you at all a DIY mechanic, or are you looking for advice before you take it to a mechanic who is going to form his own conclusion and have his hands on the vehicle and not trust folks like us?
....and still ignore my questions. 
What you're doing is like going to a new doctor, and they ask you for a case history of your medical background, what medications you might be allergic to, whether you had your tonsils out, etc. And you aren't responding to those questions. I don't get it. Are they annoying questions? I believe they are relevant, or else I would not have asked them.
But at this point, you might as well schedule changing the spark plugs and cleaning the throttle body. Then see if it gets better.
What you're doing is like going to a new doctor, and they ask you for a case history of your medical background, what medications you might be allergic to, whether you had your tonsils out, etc. And you aren't responding to those questions. I don't get it. Are they annoying questions? I believe they are relevant, or else I would not have asked them.
But at this point, you might as well schedule changing the spark plugs and cleaning the throttle body. Then see if it gets better.
The oil was changed about 500 miles ago,transmission nothing,transfer case nothing,air filter about a year ago.The vehicle has ran good until about a year ago it was in the shop for the throttle body to be cleaned and plugs changed and now this tapping noise that started a few weeks ago and of course now not wanting to stay running.Crank or Cam positioning sensors? replace or clean? Timing Chain?
eutechnyx
Member
- Mar 31, 2012
- 375
I know u are overwhelmed but you are sort of "running in circles" with your solutions OP. I would do as roadie suggested,clean the throttle body and see how it runs. very common problem on these trucks,the tapping on the other hand is highly unlikely to be related to any sensors etc. I would also go ahead and check the oil (color,smell,amount of oil) and come back with the findings.
Got the spark plugs out they look terrible will get them changed tommorrow.Took throttle body off to clean very dirty,cleaned it looks like new only question is it doesn't seem like it closes all the way maybe thats the way it is suppose to be not seen very many. You may have me on the right track roadie.I will get it back together in the morning and we will see.
The TB sits a little open. That is normal. Good luck. Was there any oil or water in the plug wells? Did you take a picture of the plugs that you can share?
Wooluf1952
Member
Our timing chain is very strong and the membership hardly ever reports issues with it. There is a variable cam phasing solenoid called the CPAS that sometimes gets sticky with sludgy oil, so I'd next recommend searching and reading up on the CPAS.
http://gmtnation.com/f93/how-clean-...osition-actuator-solenoid-picture-heavy-2263/
Definitely get on the transfer case fluid change, even before doing the transmission service. It's due every 50K, a surprisingly short interval, and is critical to not wait for 100K or to ignore it forever like some folks seem to do.
http://gmtnation.com/f93/how-clean-...osition-actuator-solenoid-picture-heavy-2263/
Definitely get on the transfer case fluid change, even before doing the transmission service. It's due every 50K, a surprisingly short interval, and is critical to not wait for 100K or to ignore it forever like some folks seem to do.
Took the cam actuator solenoid out to clean and it was missing one screen and another was damaged and the third was fine.I guess I will have to locate a new one,at least I am finding some problems.
Changed spark plugs,new air filter,new cam actuator valve and cleaned throttle body run great now,but I still have to find where this ticking/knocking is coming from,it seems to follow rpm of motor.Thanks roadie and everyone else for your help on this!
.At least the other problems are fixed
navigator
Member
- Dec 3, 2011
- 504
from the front, rear, one side or the other?
I've seen on other vehicles the harmonic balancer get out of whack but I wouldn't expect it from an 06 model.
That is the only thing external the engine I could think of.
Did you try crawling under it to see if you could hear/feel where it might be coming from?
Is your oil pressure good?
I've seen on other vehicles the harmonic balancer get out of whack but I wouldn't expect it from an 06 model.
That is the only thing external the engine I could think of.
Did you try crawling under it to see if you could hear/feel where it might be coming from?
Is your oil pressure good?
The knocking is from the right side/passenger side of engine sounds like in the middle of engine towards the bottom.The funny thing is at idle the knock starts real low and gradually gets louder then stops then starts low and gets louder and it keeps doing this while engine is idling.If I take the rpms up to about 1500 its a constant knock.I reved the engine a few times and pulled a cylinder 6 misfire may not mean anything but I thought I would mention it.
navigator
Member
- Dec 3, 2011
- 504
I'm not a mechanic by any means, mostly a parts changer so take my thoughts with a grain of salt.
my gut tells me to pull the oil pan.
I would likely do a compression check first
then drain the oil and see what it looks like
then pull the oil pan and see if you can tell anything.
Have you had any coolant get into your oil?
It almost sounds like a bearing going bad or something along those lines.
Maybe my comments will bump the thread enough for someone who really knows what might be going on
my gut tells me to pull the oil pan.
I would likely do a compression check first
then drain the oil and see what it looks like
then pull the oil pan and see if you can tell anything.
Have you had any coolant get into your oil?
It almost sounds like a bearing going bad or something along those lines.
Maybe my comments will bump the thread enough for someone who really knows what might be going on
Today I started it up and it didn't make the noise at all until the vehicle warmed up about 15 mins.Might not mean anything but thought I would mention it.
I posted a video at youtube you can here the engine knock come and go.
[video=youtube;ABzWUrhlgT0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=ABzWUrhlgT0[/video]
[video=youtube;ABzWUrhlgT0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=ABzWUrhlgT0[/video]
CASHKJ said:
To me that sounds like a classic crank knock. Not cheap nor easy, could be a rod or crankshaft main bearing.
The oil was dirty/black didn't find any metal in it.Put Quaker State 5w-30 back in. Not that I have heard alot of engine rod knocking but I always thought it was a constant knock not something that would stop and then come back.Dropping the oil pan is no easy task either I see.
gmcman
Member
- Dec 12, 2011
- 4,656
Go ahead and pull a coil pack one at a time like I described in your other thread and note the changes in the knock. No telling how much crud is in there and you need to address this now and not drive it around while doing so. A rod knock is a bad thing and each subsequent knock just further accelerates your problems.
Could be an oil starvation issue, need a gauge to check. Could very well be a bad bearing bu when and "if" you pull the pan, I would replace everything I can when doing so...it's an "all in" process. Oil pump, rod and main bearings if possible.
I had a force balancer go bad on my 2.5 Pontiac and when I pulled the pan I replaced all the bearings with factory verifying clearances and condition of the crank. One of the rod bearings was just starting to make a noise and was about .002 out of spec as well. Just labor saved and with 200K on the clock at the time it was time.
Just some hindsight if you venture deep into the bowels of the 4.2.
I agree a rod knock is either loud all the time or slightly muffled when cold then more prounounced when warm, but not on and off like yours. Who knows though, anything is possible.
Could be an oil starvation issue, need a gauge to check. Could very well be a bad bearing bu when and "if" you pull the pan, I would replace everything I can when doing so...it's an "all in" process. Oil pump, rod and main bearings if possible.
I had a force balancer go bad on my 2.5 Pontiac and when I pulled the pan I replaced all the bearings with factory verifying clearances and condition of the crank. One of the rod bearings was just starting to make a noise and was about .002 out of spec as well. Just labor saved and with 200K on the clock at the time it was time.
Just some hindsight if you venture deep into the bowels of the 4.2.
I agree a rod knock is either loud all the time or slightly muffled when cold then more prounounced when warm, but not on and off like yours. Who knows though, anything is possible.
When you say pull a coil pack what exactly do you mean?May be a dumb question but I just want to make sure that I am doing the correct thing.
gmcman
Member
- Dec 12, 2011
- 4,656
No such thing as a dumb question. Leave the coil pack in place but disconnect the.electrical connector on top of it. This will remove the combustion sequence and thus reduce pressure on the rod. If the rod bearing is suspect then the noise should dampen when the coil is disconnected.
OK I understand now I'll give it a try.Pulled the vehicle in the garage first time it was ran today and it took about 15-20 min.before it started to knock then it started that coming and going never constant.
OK gmcman I pulled the plug on the coils one at a time and the knocking did not really change of course it ran rough but the knocking was the same.Some times soft ,loud and not at all.
Pardon my ignorance here but my mechanical experience is limited to parts that can be bolted off and on from under the hood or wheel well. I know you can get to the bearing shells by removing the connection rod bolts which seems easy enough. I'm assuming the tough part is getting to connection rod right? Can you access the bottom of the connection rod with our engine in place through the oil pan or does the engine actually have to be lifted out of the vehicle?
EAnton781 said:
You can get to the bottom end of the engine without removing it, however it is a PITA, specially since CASHJ has a 4x4. There is an intermediate shaft that runs through the front differential, both of which need to be removed, in fact, the entire front end needs to be dropped including the steering rack to remove the oil pan on a 4x4. I think the 2x4 is easier but I have no experience.