NEED HELP 04 Trailblazer wont go into any Gear

Rob D

Original poster
Member
Mar 3, 2020
5
Northern Virginia
Hello all hopefully I can get some possible trouble shooting things. Well it starts as my 04 blazer after getting a trans flush not more than 1k miles after decides it wants to start leaking trans fluid. I could not locate leak, however I believed it may have been from on of the trans cooling lines. Anyhow I had to get vehicle towed as it barely moved and I believe it finally just had no more fluid in it that it just made it up my driveway. It sat for quite some time and recently filled it back up with approx 7 at of fluid. I started it let get warm, put it on Reverse, D,3,2,1 nothing engages. Specs says it takes 7 quarts and that's assuming torque convertor was empty too. Why wont it engage any gears what so ever.? I plan on taken the pan down changing filter, gasket, . Is there anything else I need to check? Is it possible all solenoids went bad? Tcc Solenoid too? HELP. !!!
 

xavierny25

Member
Mar 16, 2014
6,323
Staten Island, N.Y
CAPACITIES:


Engine, with filter..........7 quarts [1]
Cooling System, Initial Fill..........13.7 quarts
AMSOIL Antifreeze and Engine Coolant
Automatic Transmission, 4L60-E Initial Fill..........5 quarts
Automatic Transmission, Total Fill
4 speed 4L60-E..........11.2 quarts
Differential, Front..........1.7 pints [2]
Differential, Rear..........4 pints [2]
Transfer Case, NVG126..........3.8 pints [3]
Transfer Case, NVG226..........3.8 pints [3]

Transmission Filter WIX 58904 Trans Filter [2] Shallow Pan
Transmission Filter WIX 58847 Auto Tran Filter [3] Deep Pan
 

Rob D

Original poster
Member
Mar 3, 2020
5
Northern Virginia
So is it safe to say that it still needs 4 quarts? For Trans. I would think that it would not be completely empty and would at least have some in the system. I will try and add the additional 4 quarts. And see if it engages.
In the event the it still wont engage, what is next step to try ?
 

Rob D

Original poster
Member
Mar 3, 2020
5
Northern Virginia
What is the dip stick telling you when warmed up?Who did and how did you do the flush? I use 13-14 quarts for a complete transmission flush.
The flush was done at Jiffy Lube. I put 7 quarts in so far. I really couldn't see how much was on the dipstick since it had alot of residual Fluid in the filler dipstick tube. So I want it to settle tonight and I will recheck tomorrow while cold and hot. Hopefully it is because I still need 4 quarts. Just afraid that if it isn't what else it could be the reason why it wont engage to gear.
 

Maverick6587

Member
Dec 16, 2018
730
Sterling Heights, Michigan
Did you ever find where the leak was coming from. It is more than likely coming from the transmission cooling lines.

I would fix the leak before you put more fluid into it. You're going to lose fluid during the repair anyway.

If you plan on replacing the lines. You'll need to unbolt and remove either the transmission mount and/or the cross member to lower the transmission a few inches to remove the lines from the top of the transmission.

I just cut my lines where the rusted lines were and used a compression fitting. As the rest of the lines were in really good condition and I didn't feel like adding an extra hour to the job. That was probably a year or so again and I haven't had a leak from that compression fitting since it was installed.

If you plan on doing the compression fitting. Plan ahead and order it online. Otherwise you'll be stuck with a Dorman compression fitting, ask me how I know.
 

Rob D

Original poster
Member
Mar 3, 2020
5
Northern Virginia
Did you ever find where the leak was coming from. It is more than likely coming from the transmission cooling lines.

I would fix the leak before you put more fluid into it. You're going to lose fluid during the repair anyway.

If you plan on replacing the lines. You'll need to unbolt and remove either the transmission mount and/or the cross member to lower the transmission a few inches to remove the lines from the top of the transmission.

I just cut my lines where the rusted lines were and used a compression fitting. As the rest of the lines were in really good condition and I didn't feel like adding an extra hour to the job. That was probably a year or so again and I haven't had a leak from that compression fitting since it was installed.

If you plan on doing the compression fitting. Plan ahead and order it online. Otherwise you'll be stuck with a Dorman compression fitting, ask me how I know.
I was never ever to see where the leak came from. It was an extreme leak as it emptied the fluid totally, I followed the line up to a point which are the connection points however I didnt follow the complete line to see if maybe there was break or crack in it at a weakened rusted point. I put put 7 qrts which I though might at least start to leak so I can actually see if it is the lines and to pinpoint the location within the line. but it didnt leak anything. I assume there still isn't enough fluid in there as apparently it may have been like totally dry. IDK. So today I plan on adding about 4 more qrt to see if I can check for leaks since I know for sure I have put in 11 quarts. I know it is a waste of fluid but Only way I can really know if it is the lines or something worse.
Hopefully it isn't a cracked transfer case or something like that.
 

Maverick6587

Member
Dec 16, 2018
730
Sterling Heights, Michigan
The leak usually happens on the cooler lines after the bend, where the pass the engine oil pan. I attached a pic of mine, where I made the initial cut.

If the leak is in the transmission cooling lines then you will need to start the engine to get the fluid back into the lines to see where the leak is coming from. That oil is for sure going to be clean now though!
 

Attachments

  • Trans lines.jpg
    Trans lines.jpg
    437.6 KB · Views: 7

budwich

Member
Jun 16, 2013
2,027
kanata
if it sat for a long time (what is that?) without any fluid, maybe it is possible that the pump is no longer functionally pumping. :-(
 

budwich

Member
Jun 16, 2013
2,027
kanata
:-( depending on how capable you are.... you can try the "fake flush"... :smile: basically disconnect one of the cooler lines and "momentarily" start the truck and see if the flow improves with the engine running. If there is little to no change in flow, then you likely have a pump issue (or possibly a filter issue). IF you get a lot of fluid increase, then the pump is working and you can go looking elsewhere.

My guess is potentially you have ruined your "clutch plates" by driving with little to no fluid (over heating).
 

Forum Statistics

Threads
23,273
Posts
637,488
Members
18,472
Latest member
MissCrutcher

Members Online