04 Trailblazer low power feels like it's plugged up, scary trip back from tahoe-HELP

gica

Original poster
Member
Dec 25, 2012
135
Cali
2004 Trailblazer V6 2wd LT 57k miles rarely driven, first showed the same problem when pulling a small boat uphill and it only went 30 miles per hour but drove OK straight line.

I was driving up to Lake Tahoe the other week and the car was loaded with family and luggage. Went up OK not great but no real issues. After 5 days of being parked in freezing temps I packed up and was ready to go back and it started to run really sluggish going downhill. I pulled over and took off the air filter which looked really packed up with crap. I stopped by Pep Boys and picked up a new one, but it did not fix the proble. I drove about 100 miles always afraid that this thing will leave me stranded in the middle of nowhere. So it started to really lack power so I stopped at another Pep Boys and read the codes that appeared and found P0495 so high fan. Bought some starting fluid and sprayed in the throttle body and started it a few times and drove all the way to the grapevine exit for a total of 411 miles in total. But that's where I had to end the trip and have somebody pick me up to go over the last 60 miles of up and down hills. There was no way this car would make it up that steep of a hill if it barely reached 35 going stright towards the end. For the most part it did reach 70 miles per hour, so i got lucky.
After I towed it home by renting tow dolly from Uhaul I checked the codes again and found lots of them:
P0495 High Fan
P1133 Control Fuel Air Meter
P0756 Shift Solenoid B Performance ..or stuck
P0526 Fan Speed Sensor
P0128Coolant Temp Below
So I cleared and drove around the block with lots of hesitation when gas is pressed and came back to one code:
P1133 Control Fuel Air meter
Some of these I think are by products of the same problem and don't really
I immediately looked for answers online and found this forum. This almost feels like the cat is plugged up but there's none of the sounds associated with that. I read about the carbon dirt that causes stickyness so I'm trying to get some foam spray to try to clean all that.
So if anybody can set me in a good direction I'd really appreciate it. Help Help
 

CaptainXL

Member
Dec 4, 2011
2,445
gica said:
2004 Trailblazer V6 2wd LT 57k miles

I pulled over and took off the air filter which looked really packed up with crap. I stopped by Pep Boys and picked up a new one, but it did not fix the proble.

Welcome. Glad you found us.

Hmm. Judging by the lack of maintenance I would do the following first so we arent overlooking basics. Then clear the codes and then report back.

1. Change fuel filter
2. Replace coolant and thermostat and temp sensor
3. Remove and clean throttle body
4. Run some fuel injector cleaner
5. Change spark plugs
6. Change belt.
7. Check engine vacuum.
 

gica

Original poster
Member
Dec 25, 2012
135
Cali
CaptainXL said:
Welcome. Glad you found us.

Hmm. Judging by the lack of maintenance I would do the following first so we arent overlooking basics. Then clear the codes and then report back.

1. Change fuel filter
2. Replace coolant and thermostat and temp sensor
3. Remove and clean throttle body
4. Run some fuel injector cleaner
5. Change spark plugs
6. Change belt.
7. Check engine vacuum.


Thanks for the reply, I've located most of the stuff you pointed out, like fuel filter, thermostat throttle body spark plugs, belt. Where is the temp sensor, do I need new gasket after removing & cleaning throttle body, and as for the check engine vacuum can you be more specific to if I'm looking for a reading or checking for leaks? Thanks
 

Wooluf1952

Member
Nov 20, 2011
2,663
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
gica said:
Thanks for the reply, I've located most of the stuff you pointed out, like fuel filter, thermostat throttle body spark plugs, belt. Where is the temp sensor, do I need new gasket after removing & cleaning throttle body, and as for the check engine vacuum can you be more specific to if I'm looking for a reading or checking for leaks? Thanks


The t-body gasket is reusable and normally doesn't need to be replaced.
The temp sensor is behind the t-stat.
The plugs are usually changed at 100k miles. So at 57k you should be good, but checking them wouldn't hurt. If you do change them, use the AC Iridium 41-103.
Also, you have the 4.2 I6, not a V6. :smile:
You can also check for a plugged cat by removing the O2 sensor and going for a drive to see if the throttle response improves.
 

Bartonmd

Member
Nov 20, 2011
545
Just out of curiosity, did it run fine before it was parked in the snow/cold, then do all this stuff afterward? GM trucks have long had grounding issues when they got older, and when my buddy's '97 Z71 did a similar thing, it ended up being the frame -> body ground had corroded, which was causing a bunch of engine electrical issues.

Mike
 

Chickenhawk

Member
Dec 6, 2011
782
A plugged cat makes no "sounds."

They don't break apart internally; they just plug up the airflow until you get exactly the symptoms you describe.

It starts with a temp gauge running a tick or two to the left. Owners ignore this, deny the problem or never learn there is a problem. Modern cats run on a VERY narrow range of ratios, and if the engine runs cooler because the thermostat is a bit sticky, it pours a rich mixture through the cat, completely clogging it in months.

If it's the coolant temp sensor, then the PCM only thinks the engine is running cold and still dumps a rich mixture through the cat.

The problem is that it is hard to tell if it's the thermostat or the coolant temp sensor, which is why we advise people to just change them both.

If it gets really bad, it throws a code for coolant temperature below spec but by the time it throws that code, it is likely far too late to save the cat. Due to the increasing demands of modern emissions systems, cats are far more prone to failure with poorly maintained vehicles than ever before. All it takes is a few months of driving with the coolant temp lower than normal or a few minutes of driving with a plug misfire (and a flashing Check Engine light) and the cat needs replacing.

While removing the oxygen sensor temporarily to see if the performance increases is one way to roughly diagnose this problem, the best way is to perform an exhaust backpressure test. They remove the front oxygen sensor and screw in a pressure gauge. They record the readings at idle and at 2500 RPM. Readings should be near 0 PSI at idle and no more than 3 or 4 PSI at 2500 RPM.

Take your truck to a garage or exhaust shop and ask for an exhaust backpressure test. Just for our own interest, write down the readings you get and let us know.
 

gica

Original poster
Member
Dec 25, 2012
135
Cali
Bartonmd said:
Just out of curiosity, did it run fine before it was parked in the snow/cold, then do all this stuff afterward? GM trucks have long had grounding issues when they got older, and when my buddy's '97 Z71 did a similar thing, it ended up being the frame -> body ground had corroded, which was causing a bunch of engine electrical issues.

Mike

I bought this car specifically to tow a little boat around, it had 13k miles, few years back, and ended up taking it to some long distance trips for awhile. But it mostly spent its time being parked. A year ago I started geting a code which also included the gas cap being faulty P0442 and that was the only code I had. So I did change the gas cap right before this trip. But like I said on first post a month ago I started noticing the car having issues going uphill only when towing the boat though. And then this whole ordeal. I did suspect the cat but from my experience with cars most of the cats that went bad they always caused a little backfire when pressing forcing the gas pedal to the floor, this runs more like the timing has been retarded. All these codes poped up at once the high fan, the 128 with the thermostat and sensor. So I am going to clean the intake, change the thermostat and sensor, check or change the plugs which I don't think are faulty, car starts up right away and holds good idle now, though at some point during the trip it was stalling on the 99 in heavy traffic. The only reason I was able to drive 70 mile an hour for almost 350 miles was the starting fluid that i was able to spray in the throttle body, that allowed me to move forward, I couldn't find a PepBoys anywhere during that time so the starting fluid was all I could get at the gas station. By the time I made it to the GrapeVine hill it was really stalling aand I did not risk it. I want to thank all of you for contributing to this issue and i will definitelly take it step by step.
I will look into the ground issue I thought only Jags had that problem.
 

gica

Original poster
Member
Dec 25, 2012
135
Cali
Chickenhawk said:
A plugged cat makes no "sounds."

They don't break apart internally; they just plug up the airflow until you get exactly the symptoms you describe.

It starts with a temp gauge running a tick or two to the left. Owners ignore this, deny the problem or never learn there is a problem. Modern cats run on a VERY narrow range of ratios, and if the engine runs cooler because the thermostat is a bit sticky, it pours a rich mixture through the cat, completely clogging it in months.

If it's the coolant temp sensor, then the PCM only thinks the engine is running cold and still dumps a rich mixture through the cat.

The problem is that it is hard to tell if it's the thermostat or the coolant temp sensor, which is why we advise people to just change them both.

If it gets really bad, it throws a code for coolant temperature below spec but by the time it throws that code, it is likely far too late to save the cat. Due to the increasing demands of modern emissions systems, cats are far more prone to failure with poorly maintained vehicles than ever before. All it takes is a few months of driving with the coolant temp lower than normal or a few minutes of driving with a plug misfire (and a flashing Check Engine light) and the cat needs replacing.

While removing the oxygen sensor temporarily to see if the performance increases is one way to roughly diagnose this problem, the best way is to perform an exhaust backpressure test. They remove the front oxygen sensor and screw in a pressure gauge. They record the readings at idle and at 2500 RPM. Readings should be near 0 PSI at idle and no more than 3 or 4 PSI at 2500 RPM.

Take your truck to a garage or exhaust shop and ask for an exhaust backpressure test. Just for our own interest, write down the readings you get and let us know.

This car has always waisted lots of gas, don't think I could do better than 16 miles per gallon, but don't think I tested it without the boat being attached, the cat issue makes sense I'll see about a muffler shop after i clean the throttle body. thanks for all the help.
 

Chickenhawk

Member
Dec 6, 2011
782
Take a look at your temperature gauge.

If the needle is a tick or two to the left of center when warm, then we have found your problem.

But first stick to the basics as listed by CaptainXL and work your way logically through the problem.

One of the problems with modern cats and pre-owned vehicles is that we have no way of knowing how long the previous owner may have been ignoring a flashing Check Engine light.

When you change your plugs, you may as well change the front oxygen sensor too. They can get a bit lazy after a few years, but one of the most important reasons to change it with every plug change at 100,000 miles is that they can seize inside the manifold, making removal very difficult.

As the Captain said, use ONLY AC Delco 41-103 plugs, don't worry about a bit of oil on some of the plug threads (as long as the plug hole isn't filled with oil) and be very careful to reseat the coil packs properly on top. Many users burn up a coil pack instantly when they don't seat them properly after a plug change.

The plugs really won't have anything to do with your problems; they are more preventative.

If you get a new oxygen sensor, here's a tip. Take the new sensor with you when you go for your exhaust backpressure test. This way, they can simply cut the wire off the old one and use a normal deep socket to remove it. The sensor may be very tight in the manifold. When they are finished the test, they simply screw in the new sensor using a special slotted sensor socket.

Don't forget to let us know the readings you are getting on your exhaust backpressure test.

(Owning two Trailblazers means I do a lot of my own work, and I have my own exhaust backpressure tester gauge. They are only $40 to $100. They are just like a regular pressure gauge, except that it reads 0 to 15 PSI instead of the usual 0 to 200 PSI of a cylinder pressure gauge. You could, of course, use the regular pressure gauge but it would be hard to tell the difference between 4 PSI and 8 PSI.)

We always advocate looking at the easiest, cheapest and most common fixes first. A bad thermostat is very common. A plugged cat is a logical byproduct of this if not caught right away. (That's why I asked where your temp gauge needle was when warm.)

You obviously could be having transmission problems and that will show almost the same symptoms of a plugged cat but going by the odds, let's try the easy, cheap and simple fixes first:
- new fuel filter
- clean the throttle body
- change the coolant, thermostat and coolant temp sensor
- new plugs and front O2 sensor
- a GOOD fuel injector cleaner (anything with "PEA" as an active ingrediant: Chevron Techron, GM Fuel Treatment with Techron, Redline SI-1 or Gummout with Regane.)

Good luck. Stick with us and we'll get this thing running better than it has ever run before.
 

gica

Original poster
Member
Dec 25, 2012
135
Cali
Chickenhawk said:
Take a look at your temperature gauge.

If the needle is a tick or two to the left of center when warm, then we have found your problem.

But first stick to the basics as listed by CaptainXL and work your way logically through the problem.

One of the problems with modern cats and pre-owned vehicles is that we have no way of knowing how long the previous owner may have been ignoring a flashing Check Engine light.

When you change your plugs, you may as well change the front oxygen sensor too. They can get a bit lazy after a few years, but one of the most important reasons to change it with every plug change at 100,000 miles is that they can seize inside the manifold, making removal very difficult.

As the Captain said, use ONLY AC Delco 41-103 plugs, don't worry about a bit of oil on some of the plug threads (as long as the plug hole isn't filled with oil) and be very careful to reseat the coil packs properly on top. Many users burn up a coil pack instantly when they don't seat them properly after a plug change.

The plugs really won't have anything to do with your problems; they are more preventative.

If you get a new oxygen sensor, here's a tip. Take the new sensor with you when you go for your exhaust backpressure test. This way, they can simply cut the wire off the old one and use a normal deep socket to remove it. The sensor may be very tight in the manifold. When they are finished the test, they simply screw in the new sensor using a special slotted sensor socket.

Don't forget to let us know the readings you are getting on your exhaust backpressure test.

(Owning two Trailblazers means I do a lot of my own work, and I have my own exhaust backpressure tester gauge. They are only $40 to $100. They are just like a regular pressure gauge, except that it reads 0 to 15 PSI instead of the usual 0 to 200 PSI of a cylinder pressure gauge. You could, of course, use the regular pressure gauge but it would be hard to tell the difference between 4 PSI and 8 PSI.)

We always advocate looking at the easiest, cheapest and most common fixes first. A bad thermostat is very common. A plugged cat is a logical byproduct of this if not caught right away. (That's why I asked where your temp gauge needle was when warm.)

You obviously could be having transmission problems and that will show almost the same symptoms of a plugged cat but going by the odds, let's try the easy, cheap and simple fixes first:
- new fuel filter
- clean the throttle body
- change the coolant, thermostat and coolant temp sensor
- new plugs and front O2 sensor
- a GOOD fuel injector cleaner (anything with "PEA" as an active ingrediant: Chevron Techron, GM Fuel Treatment with Techron, Redline SI-1 or Gummout with Regane.)

Good luck. Stick with us and we'll get this thing running better than it has ever run before.

I'm definitely looking into buying the exhaust gauge which I assume is used through the oxygen sensor(front or rear don't know if trailblazer has 2 yet). I'm going to PepBoys and/or Autozone maybe you can give me a short guide on how to use it properly. What do you think of the Seafoam as a cleaning alternative or should I just take out the throttle body and do it manually? I will get the sensor, thermostat, fuel filter and inject cleaner. I'll look into the plugs and O2 sensor later. Thanks
PS- Nevermind I see some instructions in your previous post with the front oxygen sensor and Idle and 2500 rpm
 

Chickenhawk

Member
Dec 6, 2011
782
That one works fine. I got the OTC one so I could have the braided hose, but you will be fine as long as you are not running it long.

You will also need an oxygen sensor socket (inexpensive, but get the strongest one you can find) to put in the new sensor (and to take out the old one if you are reusing it and don't want to simply snip the wire.)
 

bspurloc

Member
Dec 27, 2012
295
It really sounds like what my daughters Envoy was doing except she had ZERO codes ZERO noise..... just a massive power loss that got much worse over time.... New Cat and bam car is like new engine wise :wink:
 

gica

Original poster
Member
Dec 25, 2012
135
Cali
Chickenhawk said:
That one works fine. I got the OTC one so I could have the braided hose, but you will be fine as long as you are not running it long.

You will also need an oxygen sensor socket (inexpensive, but get the strongest one you can find) to put in the new sensor (and to take out the old one if you are reusing it and don't want to simply snip the wire.)

The OTC looks more professinal but it's $132, this I picked up for $28 shipped, and even if I just use it this once it will pay for itself. I'm sure the muffler shop will charge much more to do the test.
 

gica

Original poster
Member
Dec 25, 2012
135
Cali
bspurloc said:
It really sounds like what my daughters Envoy was doing except she had ZERO codes ZERO noise..... just a massive power loss that got much worse over time.... New Cat and bam car is like new engine wise :wink:

How many miles did the Envoy have?
 

bspurloc

Member
Dec 27, 2012
295
gica said:
How many miles did the Envoy have?

hers was at 150,000 when it went bad.
 

gica

Original poster
Member
Dec 25, 2012
135
Cali
I cleaned up the throttle body and it did have some deposits where the flap rests on the body, it took about 10 minutes of rubbing to clean it all, no major difference to added power maybe 5%. The temperature indicator stays one notch before the 210 mark so tomorrow comes the T-stat and sensor replacement. I pooled out four spark plugs and all were the redish color with no oil or carbon build up. I also pulled a P0172 code today which is O2 bank one I reset and drove it did not come back. It looks like it's going to show every code in the book by the time I'm done with it.
Do any of you know about the PC linked OBDII scanning software like AutoTap([video=youtube;KivKqejA40E]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KivKqejA40E[/video]) that can do live readings of the O2 sensors, I saw one yesterday for $199 and it showed normal running O2 and high speed O2 readings and the guy was explaining the different issues when they get lazy
And than ther's this page"http://www.ttora.com/wiki/index.php/Oxygen_Sensor_Test" which does a pretty good job informing.
 

bspurloc

Member
Dec 27, 2012
295
From what I read, u can just take out one of the O2 sensors and drive it down the road and back, if u find increased power the cat is plugged.
 

CaptainXL

Member
Dec 4, 2011
2,445
I highly doubt the exhaust is restricted if the OP can reach 70 mph.

Try this. Unplug the O2 sensor and see what that does. A P1133 means you have a vacuum leak or the O2 sensor is high constantly adding fuel which would cause the truck to run rich and poor. Unplug it and the truck will run in open loop but performance should restore. No need to take out the O2 right now.

It would be a good idea to take a few spark plugs out and see if they are fouled or not. If so clean them as well as the others.

Do the basics first like Chickenhawk and I talked about. There is no need at the moment to jump to conclusions and think that the problem is something more serious.

For instance while replacing the sparl plugs you might notice that the plugs are fouled or heavily carboned up. This would be an indication that more fuel is being added than should be. In this case suspect a vacuum leak or bad O2 sensor.
 

gica

Original poster
Member
Dec 25, 2012
135
Cali
CaptainXL said:
I highly doubt the exhaust is restricted if the OP can reach 70 mph.

Try this. Unplug the O2 sensor and see what that does. A P1133 means you have a vacuum leak or the O2 sensor is high constantly adding fuel which would cause the truck to run rich and poor. Unplug it and the truck will run in open loop but performance should restore. No need to take out the O2 right now.

It would be a good idea to take a few spark plugs out and see if they are fouled or not. If so clean them as well as the others.

Do the basics first like Chickenhawk and I talked about. There is no need at the moment to jump to conclusions and think that the problem is something more serious.

For instance while replacing the sparl plugs you might notice that the plugs are fouled or heavily carboned up. This would be an indication that more fuel is being added than should be. In this case suspect a vacuum leak or bad O2 sensor.

I did take out four spark plugs today(after I cleaned out the throttle body) and they all looked the same redish brick look. No carbon deposits at all. Like I said the temp gage showed one incriment or line below 210, tomorrow I will change the T-stat and sensor. I will also do the O2 unplug as you mentioned.
 

bspurloc

Member
Dec 27, 2012
295
CaptainXL said:
I highly doubt the exhaust is restricted if the OP can reach 70 mph.

My daughters was able to reach 70mph plugged up. When it got absolutely bad it was still able to get to 70mph.
The question is how long does it take to get to 70mph. I was able to get to 60mph up a hill almost redlining it. That is when I had a friend replace the cat as I had exhausted all other options.
 

gica

Original poster
Member
Dec 25, 2012
135
Cali
CaptainXL said:
I highly doubt the exhaust is restricted if the OP can reach 70 mph.

Try this. Unplug the O2 sensor and see what that does. A P1133 means you have a vacuum leak or the O2 sensor is high constantly adding fuel which would cause the truck to run rich and poor. Unplug it and the truck will run in open loop but performance should restore. No need to take out the O2 right now.

It would be a good idea to take a few spark plugs out and see if they are fouled or not. If so clean them as well as the others.

Do the basics first like Chickenhawk and I talked about. There is no need at the moment to jump to conclusions and think that the problem is something more serious.

For instance while replacing the sparl plugs you might notice that the plugs are fouled or heavily carboned up. This would be an indication that more fuel is being added than should be. In this case suspect a vacuum leak or bad O2 sensor.

Quick question, what do you guys use as OBD2 scaners. I was looking at actron CP9580 and others like Innova 3130. I was also looking for the PC interface solutions like Autocom or the cheaper OBDLink SX solutions where you can add different upgrades. What do you guys use if anything to read live data etc? Thanks
 

C-ya

Member
Aug 24, 2012
1,098
gica said:
Quick question, what do you guys use as OBD2 scaners. I was looking at actron CP9580 and others like Innova 3130. I was also looking for the PC interface solutions like Autocom or the cheaper OBDLink SX solutions where you can add different upgrades. What do you guys use if anything to read live data etc? Thanks

I use the Torque app (Android) with a bluetooth adapter from ebay ($20), along with a quite a few other folks, and a few use obdwiz. I'm about to get this one, I think. For the price, it looks pretty good. Not sure yet if I would have to get the extra software packs and GM pack or if it has enough tools to be useful in the $50 package. Someone (Roadie??) mentioned using this one - Link to ebay as it does ABS and airbag fault codes. It looks good, too. May have to get it as well! :undecided:
 

xj2202009

Member
Mar 27, 2012
105
C-ya said:
I use the Torque app (Android) with a bluetooth adapter from ebay ($20), along with a quite a few other folks, and a few use obdwiz. I'm about to get this one, I think. For the price, it looks pretty good. Not sure yet if I would have to get the extra software packs and GM pack or if it has enough tools to be useful in the $50 package. Someone (Roadie??) mentioned using this one - Link to ebay as it does ABS and airbag fault codes. It looks good, too. May have to get it as well! :undecided:

Hi, do you have the model# or link to this"I use the Torque app (Android) with a bluetooth adapter from ebay ($20)" desperately in need of something. The one you listed that Roadie uses seems good for the price too.
 

CaptainXL

Member
Dec 4, 2011
2,445
xj2202009 said:
Hi, do you have the model# or link to this"I use the Torque app (Android) with a bluetooth adapter from ebay ($20)" desperately in need of something. The one you listed that Roadie uses seems good for the price too.

For basic (non-performance) diagnostics you can use the one below which I have. You can use it with a PC, laptop or Android phone. It's a little tempermental but it works for retrieving codes and monitoring GM extended PIDS

Amazon.com: Soliport ELM 327 Bluetooth OBDII OBD2 Diagnostic Scanner: Automotive
 

gica

Original poster
Member
Dec 25, 2012
135
Cali
CaptainXL said:
For basic (non-performance) diagnostics you can use the one below which I have. You can use it with a PC, laptop or Android phone. It's a little tempermental but it works for retrieving codes and monitoring GM extended PIDS

Amazon.com: Soliport ELM 327 Bluetooth OBDII OBD2 Diagnostic Scanner: Automotive

So would you say that it's as good as a regular scanner like Actron CP-9580 which costs 5 times as much? How's the live data, does it monitor the different sensors,any graph capabilities, I know they read and erase codes but other than that don't know much about the Torque soft for Android, but I do have a Xoom table that I'd like to try out. I'm trying to buy something that does more than read and erase codes, I do have an older Avtron 9175 that does that. Thanks
 

gica

Original poster
Member
Dec 25, 2012
135
Cali
Changed both the T-stat and sensor, don't know what was more of a pain taking out the alternator lower bolt or screwing back the sensor. Had to go get a 18mm crowfoot at Sears to tighten it back. In the process I also broke the alterantor 2wire connector, so last night I brought it in and soldered some extention wires by pulling each prong individually, it was easier than I thought and don't have to spend some $25 for a replacement pigtail connector from Autozone. So the temperature gauge is at 210 now as opposed to below 210 before. Don't think it's going to affect the drive issue too much but I only drove it in the parking lot. I will post more after I drive.
Also I got the vacuum gauge and I'll have to remove one of the oxygen sensors and measure. I saw the upstream sensor right uptop on the exhaust manifold, easy to reach, does that sound right? Thanks
 

Wooluf1952

Member
Nov 20, 2011
2,663
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
gica said:
Also I got the vacuum gauge and I'll have to remove one of the oxygen sensors and measure. I saw the upstream sensor right uptop on the exhaust manifold, easy to reach, does that sound right? Thanks

It would be a pressure gauge and yes, that's the O2 sensor to remove.
 

gica

Original poster
Member
Dec 25, 2012
135
Cali
Wooluf1952 said:
It would be a pressure gauge and yes, that's the O2 sensor to remove.
That's what I meant, sorry for the typo, I did order the O2 removal tool and it should be here any day now. I drove it around and it seems to have slightly more power but not much. Still lacks power and it keeps the RPm above 2k most of the time when picking up speed. I haven't seen any new codes yet but did not drive faster than 50. I also unplugged the O2 and drove did not do anything and that time I did hear some exhaust backpressure type sounds, they went awy after plugging it back in and the P1133 code registered also. I guess the pressure gauge test is the next step. Sucks to do all these repairs without the right tools.
 

CaptainXL

Member
Dec 4, 2011
2,445
gica said:
So would you say that it's as good as a regular scanner like Actron CP-9580 which costs 5 times as much? How's the live data, does it monitor the different sensors,any graph capabilities, I know they read and erase codes but other than that don't know much about the Torque soft for Android, but I do have a Xoom table that I'd like to try out. I'm trying to buy something that does more than read and erase codes, I do have an older Avtron 9175 that does that. Thanks

It's just a basic scan tool. The PID read rate is abysmally slow at about 5 PIDS per second. Maybe less. I just use it to check counters on certain PIDS and also clear codes. It doesn't work very fast with the Torque program. Sorry I can't really comment about the Actron or any other products out there. They may be better at certain things such as reading and clearing ABS codes which the ELM 327 does not do AFAIK. It took me a while to become accustomed to the different products available on the market. You just need to read up on the specs and make an educated decision for yourself. Everyone here is just going to have there own opinion.
 

gica

Original poster
Member
Dec 25, 2012
135
Cali
CaptainXL said:
It's just a basic scan tool. The PID read rate is abysmally slow at about 5 PIDS per second. Maybe less. I just use it to check counters on certain PIDS and also clear codes. It doesn't work very fast with the Torque program. Sorry I can't really comment about the Actron or any other products out there. They may be better at certain things such as reading and clearing ABS codes which the ELM 327 does not do AFAIK. It took me a while to become accustomed to the different products available on the market. You just need to read up on the specs and make an educated decision for yourself. Everyone here is just going to have there own opinion.

I am stuck trying to get the O2 sensor out, I've sprayed the PB remover spray i used a small torch for a little bit to try to get it unstuck but the issue is also the tool which is a 7/8 , I bought the long and the shorter versions and both seem to slip off the sensor as soon as i use a bar to force it. Don't know whatelse to do to get it off. Is there a trick to this? Thanks.
 

Wooluf1952

Member
Nov 20, 2011
2,663
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
gica said:
I am stuck trying to get the O2 sensor out, I've sprayed the PB remover spray i used a small torch for a little bit to try to get it unstuck but the issue is also the tool which is a 7/8 , I bought the long and the shorter versions and both seem to slip off the sensor as soon as i use a bar to force it. Don't know whatelse to do to get it off. Is there a trick to this? Thanks.

You can cut off the wires and use a standard or impact socket. Once you cut the wires you are locked in to change it.
Make sure you use a 6 point socket and spraying the PB Blaster a few times over a couple of days is also recommended.
 

Menthol

Member
Dec 8, 2011
177
gica said:
I am stuck trying to get the O2 sensor out, I've sprayed the PB remover spray i used a small torch for a little bit to try to get it unstuck but the issue is also the tool which is a 7/8 , I bought the long and the shorter versions and both seem to slip off the sensor as soon as i use a bar to force it. Don't know whatelse to do to get it off. Is there a trick to this? Thanks.
You did not follow the instructions, you were supposed to take it to the shop and ask for a pressure test then ask them to put the new sensor on lol.
Someone had said they used a BF pipe wrench after taking off the heat sheild. I'm spraying mine for a few days now to try later in the week.
 

Levi Bailey

Member
Jul 8, 2017
3
Franklin NC
You did not follow the instructions, you were supposed to take it to the shop and ask for a pressure test then ask them to put the new sensor on lol.
Someone had said they used a BF pipe wrench after taking off the heat sheild. I'm spraying mine for a few days now to try later in the week.
You did not follow the instructions, you were supposed to take it to the shop and ask for a pressure test then ask them to put the new sensor on lol.
Someone had said they used a BF pipe wrench after taking off the heat sheild. I'm spraying mine for a few days now to try later in the week.

I'm having the same problem which seems to be getting worse. So far ive cleaned the throttle body as one of the codes it threw was for throttle body sensor. changed the plugs and fuel filter. do I have to pull the 02 sensor out to check if the cat is plugged or can I just disconnect the wire harness? Another code it threw was lean bank 1 so its running rich.

I'm having the same problem which seems to be getting worse. So far ive cleaned the throttle body as one of the codes it threw was for throttle body sensor. changed the plugs and fuel filter. do I have to pull the 02 sensor out to check if the cat is plugged or can I just disconnect the wire harness? Another code it threw was lean bank 1 so its running rich.
It also threw misfire cylinder 4, I replaced the coil for cylinder 4
and shift solenoid, I had the transmission rebuilt maybe 2 years ago
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,483
Ottawa, ON
Your posts have been merged. Please do not multi-post. Use the edit button if you need to add more info. Thanks.

If you're getting a lean code, it means it's running lean and it's unable to compensate (i.e. vacuum leak) or your O2 sensor is getting old and may need replacing. Check the intake manifold bolts and any possible vacuum leaks. Fix this first before we dive farther.
 

Levi Bailey

Member
Jul 8, 2017
3
Franklin NC
Your posts have been merged. Please do not multi-post. Use the edit button if you need to add more info. Thanks.

If you're getting a lean code, it means it's running lean and it's unable to compensate (i.e. vacuum leak) or your O2 sensor is getting old and may need replacing. Check the intake manifold bolts and any possible vacuum leaks. Fix this first before we dive farther.
I tried blowing smoke in a vaccume line and couldn't see any leaks. would a faulty 02 sensor cause hesitation and the inability to go over 10 mph? it seems to be gradually getting worse and stalling
 

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