you had the whole tranny rebuilt? what was the cost? mine shifts perfect still and no slipping when you floor itKNBlazer said:I had rpms bouncing at around 2k ... ended up needing a rebuild at 188k miles...
So what would you recommend i do then?The_Roadie said:The dealer didn't want to be blamed for the inevitable failure.
But surely there are other competent independent mechanics who will do what the customer asks? Dealers cannot be trusted, it seems, even when they DON'T do a job. If they lie about why they won't do it.
Too bad.
I had a flare as well... ended up being a bad pump, sunshell, 3-4 clutch pack... $2600 with new converter and 3yr/100k mile nationwide warranty...Mike w said:you had the whole tranny rebuilt? what was the cost? mine shifts perfect still and no slipping when you floor it
Flare? sorry you lost me on that. 2600 is pretty resonableKNBlazer said:I had a flare as well... ended up being a bad pump, sunshell, 3-4 clutch pack... $2600 with new converter and 3yr/100k mile nationwide warranty...
Will do. I should have looked it over better.The_Roadie said:Take it to a competent independent transmission shop, tell them the whole history, and start saving.
Sometimes, I've read about multiple flushes with new proper fluid can recover functionality. Only a professional who can lay their hands on it can tell for sure. On a forum all we could do is guess.
For the benefit of future readers (not trying to rub it in - I know you feel badly) - THIS is another reason for a competent pre-purchase inspection. WIthout knowing the problems that a previous owner might be trying to fob off on you, you can't have any idea of a fair price to offer to compensate YOU for the risk of ignored maintenance you might be assuming.
yes just what you see in the video. it was jerking a bit but after the fluid change the jerking clearedRayGumm said:Wait... how much fluctuation are you talking? After it settles into TC lockup, it doesn't fluctuate more than 75-125 RPM'S. Your video looks normal to me besides the Airbag lite... mine (and every other auto trans vehicle I've driven) does the same...
RayGumm said:Wait... how much fluctuation are you talking? After it settles into TC lockup, it doesn't fluctuate more than 75-125 RPM'S. Your video looks normal to me besides the Airbag lite... mine (and every other auto trans vehicle I've driven) does the same...
in 3rd it still did the fluctuation.gmcman said:Sorry, I see that it was doing this prior.
Take it out again and put the shifter in 3rd, the TC should still lock and see if it still fluctuates.
Is it me or is this a normal lockup with the 3.42 or 3.73 ratio? I have the 4.10 so I can't say but it seems abrupt for a factory PWM control. Just something that made me think it could have previously had a PWM eliminator installed albeit incorrectly. I doubt it but it was just a thought.
That's what i was thinking as well. I have done successful motor swaps, and such i am pretty good at mechanical work i learned its all about patience.gmcman said:Mike, I don't know your financial situation but this is what I would recommend....worst case, you get it rebuilt.
First of all, a pan drop and filter is about 1/4 of the total fluid capacity. What I would do is get another filter just to have it (deep pan) and check the fluid again...you will want to change the fluid again soon and maybe after the next change to replace the filter again.
Where did you get the filter and/or did you change it yourself?
What is the fluid level?
Did all this happen before the fluid change or after?
I would maybe wait on the flush since you don't know the history...could dislodge too much material clogging the filter.
When mine was at about 165K I had a very noticeable 2-3 flare and what had happened was the check balls pounded the separator plate so much that one actually pounded through, resulting in a pressure loss. This is very normal for these transmissions but when it happens is anyone's guess, depends on driving habits.
It looks as like the TCC is either slipping or the PWM control is erratic...or both. This could be either from debris or from a pressure loss.
What is your mechanical ability? When I removed my valve body the first time it gave me sweaty palms but wasn't bad at all, intimidating at first mainly because it is my daily driver but if you're organized it's not bad.
Before you take it in, lets see if we can figure it out.
ok ill do this and see what i gain out of it, ill keep updated worse case i need it rebuilt and i got a connection who will rebuild it for 800.00 i pull tranny though andgmcman said:In your case it will be a crap shoot since we don't know the condition of the clutches. However the vette servo and the Sonam super hold can be swapped later if needed.
What I would recommend is to get the Transgo TCC PWM eliminator valve and the vette servo. I personally don't like to go with a shift kit since it's more work to undo. ..even though most people leave them in.
I would also get a new separator plate from the dealer, I strongly recommend this against aftermarket....unless you contact Transgo.
Also get the Torlon check balls.
Torlon balls, vette servo, PWM eliminator, I would get from Pro Built Automatics.
New plate, from the dealer.
I would start here and should fix your issues, and extend the life of the trans if you don't have burned clutches.
Much cheaper than the alternative right now.
Thanks which aftermarket cooler? the trans i'm purchasing has trans go shift kit all new clutches new TC Heavy duty sunshell and sonnax sure hold. I will have the other one rebuilt or sell it as a core.BlazingTrails said:The trans is easy to remove with about 18" of extensions for the top 2 bolts. Install an aftermarket trans cooler, that is most likely where the water came from. I would reset the pcm. I would also install a corvette servo. $20 on eBay and 10 min to put in.
I'll check into that anything that gives more mpg is worth it.gmcman said:Something to consider, and I know I will likely do this when I ever replace my trans...is to look into an Edge converter. If you plan on keeping it for awhile then at least contact them directly. There is a science in regards to torque converters and these converters, while pricey, are very well thought out and AFAIK, they may even offer a slight increase in city mileage.
I would contact them for sure and at least get the scoop, has been a couple years since I did and the info may have changed.