yet another lovely 4.2l valve tick

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
With the 4.2, the rocker doesn't push on the stem. The Kent Moore tool works on the outside of the rocker while still applying pressure to the keeper.

Are you going to replace all of them?

The labor involved I would also replace the intake manifold gasket.

Be sure to use a torque wrench...only 89 INCH pounds on all those 10mm bolts.

FWIW, I had a noise on one of mine also..I changed 4 of them to be sure.

I later developed another one going bad and had to go in there all over again...I then replaced all of them.
 
Jan 30, 2022
11
Illinois
With the 4.2, the rocker doesn't push on the stem. The Kent Moore tool works on the outside of the rocker while still applying pressure to the keeper.

Are you going to replace all of them?

The labor involved I would also replace the intake manifold gasket.

Be sure to use a torque wrench...only 89 INCH pounds on all those 10mm bolts.

FWIW, I had a noise on one of mine also..I changed 4 of them to be sure.

I later developed another one going bad and had to go in there all over again...I then replaced all of them.

I was only going to replace about 4 as well on the exhaust side. May as well by the whole set since I'll be in there anyway.
 
  • Like
Reactions: gmcman

mrrsm

Lifetime VIP Donor
Supporting Donor
Member
Oct 22, 2015
7,641
Tampa Bay Area
For anyone in need of the Requisite K&M EN-47945 Tool Kit described in detail in Post #36, eBay still has very few (...at least two are available at very reasonable prices as of 04/05/2022) via THIS Link:

 
  • Like
Reactions: gmcman
Jan 30, 2022
11
Illinois
For anyone in need of the Requisite K&M EN-47945 Tool Kit described in detail in Post #36, eBay still has very few (...at least two are available at very reasonable prices as of 04/05/2022) via THIS Link:


This is the one I found and was going to use: Kent-Moore J-44228 On-Car Valve Spring Compressor Tool. Looks like it will do the same thing?

 

mrrsm

Lifetime VIP Donor
Supporting Donor
Member
Oct 22, 2015
7,641
Tampa Bay Area
No. It Won't. Avoid doing any "Freelancing" by trying to apply any OTHER very specifically designed K&M Tools for OTHER Engine Heads.

Pay particular attention to the Instructions and Suggestions made already by @gmcman and proven by his successful application of the K&M EN-47945 Tool.


You've been given all of the Right Data you need to know. Choose Your Repair Tools ...Wisely:

THIS K&M Specialty Tool Kit is NOT appropriate for the present work you need to perform on your GM 4.2L LL8 Motor Engine Head:

GMRECESSEDVALVESPRINGTOOL.jpg
 
Jan 30, 2022
11
Illinois
For anyone in need of the Requisite K&M EN-47945 Tool Kit described in detail in Post #36, eBay still has very few (...at least two are available at very reasonable prices as of 04/05/2022) via THIS Link:


I found this one
No. It Won't. Avoid doing any "Freelancing" by trying to apply any OTHER very specifically designed K&M Tools for OTHER Engine Heads.

Pay particular attention to the Instructions and Suggestions made already by @gmcman and proven by his successful application of the K&M EN-47945 Tool.


You've been given all of the Right Data you need to know. Choose Your Repair Tools ...Wisely:

THIS K&M Specialty Tool Kit is NOT appropriate for the present work you need to perform on your GM 4.2L LL8 Motor Engine Head:

View attachment 103487
 
Jan 30, 2022
11
Illinois
What am I missing? The Trailvoy forum has the J-44228-A and this site has a video as well https://gmtoolsandequipment.com/en-US/Pages/ItemDetail.aspx?SKU=J-44228-A for the L6 4.2L The attachment you added specifically states the the J-44228 should be used.

This is what may be the difference from what #gmcman said in the thread: With the 4.2, the rocker doesn't push on the stem. The Kent Moore tool works on the outside of the rocker while still applying pressure to the keeper.

Applying pressure to the keeper is the key piece to his statement.
 

mrrsm

Lifetime VIP Donor
Supporting Donor
Member
Oct 22, 2015
7,641
Tampa Bay Area
Look... If you ask for help here, you must be willing to widen your gaze. It sounds like you've already made your decision in favor of whatever the TV Thread has provided. That's Fine. Just know that these Two Different K&M Tool Sets are Designed to Do Different Things Under Different Conditions:


The K&M Tool that you are in such a rage to approve of for use is partially illustrated in action below and appears to be used... ONLY AFTER ...the Removal of the Camshaft and Roller Rockers have occurred and appears expressly designed for the purpose of performing Valve Spring R&Rs @ Four Per Cylinder-Combustion Chamber.

The K&M Tool originally suggested for use in your present situation by @gmcman does not require such drastic repair actions to achieve the original goal you had in mind of just swapping out the Tiny, Hollow Push Rods.


GMRECESSEDVALVESPRINGTOOL2.jpgGMRECESSEDVALVESPRINGTOOL3.jpg
 
Last edited:
Jan 30, 2022
11
Illinois
I got around to replacing a total of 8 valve lash adjusters this weekend. Attached are pics of the collapsed adjusters and the spark plug well that had oil in it. There were actually three spark plug wells that had oil in them. In the other pic, you can see the third and fourth valve lash adjusters that were collapsed, especially the third one. The valve cover gasket needed to be replaced anyway. I made a short video to show others how to do this, since there are no videos on YouTube. Thanks @gmcman and @MRRSM for your tips.
 

Attachments

  • Spark Plug Well.jpeg
    Spark Plug Well.jpeg
    410 KB · Views: 8
  • Valve Lash Adjusters.jpeg
    Valve Lash Adjusters.jpeg
    618.6 KB · Views: 8

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
Nice.

Did you just replace 8 so far or are you only replacing 8?

To get to the front adjuster on the exhaust side I had to revove the plate over the chain.

Screenshot_20220417-125533_Gallery.jpg
 
Jan 30, 2022
11
Illinois
Nice.

Did you just replace 8 so far or are you only replacing 8?
Only replaced 8. 4 intake and exhaust on cylinders 1 & 2. I'm planning on buying a new truck anyway and may keep this one around for hauling materials. If I have to do it again to replace the other valve lash adjusters, it will be much easier. The biggest pain was disconnecting all of the engine harness clamps.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mooseman and gmcman

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
The biggest pain was disconnecting all of the engine harness clamps

The PCU should just unbolt from the mount and be moved aside, no need to remove the connectors.

I wish I could persuade you more to replace all of them while you are already there, but if you have buttoned it all up that point is moot.

Anyway...nice work, hope this fixes your problem. :thumbsup:

Edit to add, I'm speculating the wire loom clamps?
 
Jan 30, 2022
11
Illinois
It's all buttoned up and took care of the tick. Originally I diagnosed with an engine stethoscope, so I knew it was cylinder 1 or 2. In order to pull the harness to the front of the motor to get it out of the way, all of those little harness clamps had to be opened. There were many of them, plus the one right underneath the intake manifold had to be opened. Not as easy to get to as the others. It was easier for me to remove the PCU to remove the bracket that holds it. :thumbsup:
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mooseman

mrrsm

Lifetime VIP Donor
Supporting Donor
Member
Oct 22, 2015
7,641
Tampa Bay Area
For the Record... I'm listing the Micrometer Measurements of these "Tiny Push Rods" just in case you want to make some post-removal measurements of the ones in your Photo and describe the levels of of their *Tick* collapse:

GM 4.2L Vortec 4200 LL8

OEM Hydraulic Push Rod
GM Part #12572638
Length: 37.25 mm
Width: 12.00 mm


ACDELCOHL129A.jpgACDELCOHL129B.jpgACDELCOHL129C.jpg42494510615_a47c95ba9e_c.jpg

OEM Push Rod Roller-Cam Lobe Follower
GM Part #24100294


42494510565_6a574d8483_c.jpg

An IMPORTANT FYI observation from the Video:

If you have to re-visit this R&R... the strong recommendation for All GM Engines is to Rotate the Engine ONLY in a Clockwise Direction when facing the Motor from the front of the SUV. Otherwise the Plastic Inserts covering the Timing Chain Guides can become damaged if the Timing Chain is Slack and catch them when moving in reverse.

Also, the Timing Chain Tensioner Plunger may extrude outwards more than normal and NOT retract afterwards due to its in-dwelling Spring Loaded Wear Ratchet Locking Mechanism constantly re-setting the position of the Pressure Pad further and further outwards under the Passenger Side Timing Chain Guide.
 
Last edited:

mrrsm

Lifetime VIP Donor
Supporting Donor
Member
Oct 22, 2015
7,641
Tampa Bay Area
Just a Small Correction is worth mentioning here...

The Camshaft Lobes Do NOT make Direct Contact with the Tips of the Valve Stems through the Center of the Valve Springs and Hardened Keepers arrangements. Rather, the Cam Lobes only make Direct Contact with the Small Roller Wheel portions of the Tiny Push Rod Rockers-Followers which in turn, Lever Down upon the Tips of the Valve Stems as very well illustrated during this Automotive College Student Film of the Camshaft Installation onto an LL8 Aluminum Engine Head in a well lit Bench Top Shop Setting:


The Flat Tool Kit mentioned in Post #36 is NOT meant for use in Removing and Replacing Valve Springs. Its Purpose is strictly meant for Replacing the Roller-Rocker-Followers and-or Shattered Tiny Push Rods on a Fully Assembled Engine. The Other Kit is identified as K&M J-44228 as depicted below:



GM42LVALVESPRINGCOMPRESSOR2.jpg

BESTKIT1.jpgBESTKIT2.jpgBESTKIT3.jpgBESTKIT4.jpgBESTKIT5.jpg

It's always All About Research to Confirm using, "The Proper Tool ...For The Proper Job..."
 
Last edited:

Forum Statistics

Threads
23,273
Posts
637,498
Members
18,472
Latest member
MissCrutcher

Members Online