gmcman said:
Exit the vehicle, go to the fridge, acquire favorite beverage and take a deep breath.
With normal fluid changes I cannot imagine the crank sliding around at 150K. I would get the AC cam sensor and put the O2 sensor back in, not having it in there can only add to your frustration. Go get an exhaust backpressure test done at a muffler shop to possibly eliminate the cat.
Are you looking at cam timing or ignition timing when above 1750 RPM? Are you absolutely sure you installed the cams in the correct orientation? I would pull a vacuum line and check the vacuum at idle, ensure the needle is steady. A fluctuating needle could signify a partially open valve.
Did the engine run smooth but only a code prior to the actuator replacement?
If you look at the pics of my valve cover (first time removed EVER), it was really clean. Heck, there was NOTHING on the screens of my original CPAS!! Oil was leaking out at an alarming rate from the original CPAS, but thats about it. I cant imagine the crank having excessive play either. I have always used synthetic oil, never went over 7000 miles per synthetic oil change, and never have beat on the truck.
Prior to this issue, the SES light came on with P1345 & P0014. I replaced the CPAS, disc. battery, light off, 10 minutes later light back on with both codes. Replaced crank & cam sensors. Disc battery, CASE relearn, light back on 10 minutes later with same codes again. Replaced cam actuator itself.... you see where Im going with this..
We were looking at the CAM timing on the TECH II the other night. At idle, the requested timing was 0* degrees. When you hit the gas, and went past 1700 RPMs, the ACTUAL timing started to climb, as if it was running out of control, even though the requested timing from the PCM was still 0* degrees. By the time we got to 2500RPMs, the actual timing was 24* degrees past the requested.
Strange thing is, the Dorman CPAS I have in there has oil in the plug already

But it DID respond to the TECH II when we increased the cam timing and retarded it. According to the TECH II, my exhaust camshaft timing is changing itself. Could that Dorman CPAS be causing this? Even though Ive replaced my CAM & Crank sensors, could the wires to either be shorted causing an erroneous reading to the PCM?
I know the Dorman CPAS's arent very reliable. Im going to drop the $50 or whatever it is tomorrow and get a DELCO CPAS direct from the dealer AND a new wiring connector for the CPAS.
As far as the cam timing, Im 100% positive it was dead nuts on. Its not hard to do at all on the I6. Actually, I got all anxious for nothing. You cannot put the actuator on wrong; it has a peg out the backside that plugs unto the cam and theres only 1 spot on the cam for it to line up. Plus, my cam flats were both pointing up, which is how GM tells you to align the cams.
Bottom line is, I cannot see a stretched timing chain OR bad crankshaft causing the timing to increase slowly, degree by degree once you hit 1750RPMs maxing out at 24* variance between what the PCM is commanding and what is actual. Wouldnt a bad crank or a stretched timing chain, the timing would be off right away and by a few degrees maybe, NOT starting at 1750RPM's and not starting at 0* and working its way to 24* off??
Regarding the damaged connector, I pushed the wires back in and it accepted them. Im going to replace the connector too because I dont trust it and its completely oil soaked, even the wires are soft and mushy. I dont crimp connections, Im a master solderer!

When I get the new connector, I will be soldering it and heat shrink tubing it.
Roadie: That diagram makes no sense to me at all....lol.. so you are saying the black wire should be ground and the brown is 12v?