So I got the ole P0017 code again. I ordered up new VVT and cam position sensor. I usually change the oil when the the service light comes on. For the heck of it I checked the oil level with the dip stick. Much to my surprise no oil showing on the stick. The oil pressure gauge read about 53 psi and no oil light showing. Don't know what happened to the oil. Not seeing any smoke from the tail pipe. This truck with the 4.2 has 258,000 and really have not any major issues except for tranny replacement at 230,000.
Where did the oil go?
- Thread starter pell
- Start date
Mooseman
Moderator
How long were you on this oil? Maybe just at the end of the change interval and it just slowly burned it. At that mileage, it wouldn't surprise me.
Maybe try a different oil. Some oils burn more than others. Used to see that on Hondas that typically didn't like synthetics. Conventional oil lasted much longer.
Maybe try a different oil. Some oils burn more than others. Used to see that on Hondas that typically didn't like synthetics. Conventional oil lasted much longer.
Sorry mistake made on the code it was P0014. Not sure of the miles on the oil as when the light shows I change it. Not happy the pressure gauge showed good pressure and no dash light showing low oil. I will be checking it every fill up. Never liked the dip stick very hard for me to read.
You know the dashboard oil pressure display is not real, right?
And only the 2002 model years had a low oil level monitor.
I think we have covered this topic before...
STOP USING THE OIL LIFE MONITOR!!!
This is especially true on any vehicle with VVT, AFM, DOD, or any variation therein.
Per a insider interview, oil change intervals were increased because the failure rate of common/popular engines were so low. Increase the OLM (Oil Life Monitor) to the max, or whatever the salesman tells the unsuspecting purchaser, and they will either be needing an engine, or will junk it due to a bad engine from poor oil maintenance, and the dealer/manufacture wins.
I think this started back in the 90's with transmissions with no oil dipstick, and a crazy (if any) service interval.
Push back from old timers was high.. But has quickly diminished as older folks died/quit driving, and the younger generations were never told the way its supposed to be.
STOP USING THE OIL LIFE MONITOR!!!
This is especially true on any vehicle with VVT, AFM, DOD, or any variation therein.
Per a insider interview, oil change intervals were increased because the failure rate of common/popular engines were so low. Increase the OLM (Oil Life Monitor) to the max, or whatever the salesman tells the unsuspecting purchaser, and they will either be needing an engine, or will junk it due to a bad engine from poor oil maintenance, and the dealer/manufacture wins.
I think this started back in the 90's with transmissions with no oil dipstick, and a crazy (if any) service interval.
Push back from old timers was high.. But has quickly diminished as older folks died/quit driving, and the younger generations were never told the way its supposed to be.
Mooseman
Moderator
If you have an 02, the dipstick can be swapped with a later year with the metal end instead of the yellow plastic one. Much better.
Even if you have an 02, the low oil level sensor doesn't kick on until it's really low. If you had oil pressure the whole time and never saw the oil light come on, you are probably fine but should still keep it to the proper level.
Even if you have an 02, the low oil level sensor doesn't kick on until it's really low. If you had oil pressure the whole time and never saw the oil light come on, you are probably fine but should still keep it to the proper level.
Mooseman
Moderator
Just saw yours is an 06. If you have a hard time reading the dipstick, try cleaning it with brake cleaner.
And yeah, I would shorten the oil change interval. I usually do it at around 25%, which for me comes to around 10k km.
And yeah, I would shorten the oil change interval. I usually do it at around 25%, which for me comes to around 10k km.
The Mysterious GM 4.2L "Lost Oil" Check List:
(1) Very High Mileage Motor...with Piston Slap? YES
(2) Dirty Engine Oil found inside the Air Intake Resonator? ???
(3) Carbon-Gas Gum Trapped "Low Tension" Compression Rings (If (2) is YES... then YES)
(4) Infrequent or High Mileage Oil Changes ???
(5) Oily, Dirty Throttle Body & Oil leaking out from the Intake Manifold Runners Flange? ???
(6) Treated with ACDelco TEC (Top Engine Cleaner) YET? ??? See Linked Threads for Procedures
All of these Symptoms lead to Engine Oil being Pushed by Blow-By Gasses escaping around the Piston Rings pressurizing the Crank Case and Upper Valve Cover Spaces. After the Oil is moved upwards, it gets vacuumed through the Rubber PCV Tube in the front of the upper Valve Cover and it collects down inside of the Air Intake Resonator.
Ultimately, the Old Motor Oil passes on through the Throttle Body via Natural Aspiration and it winds up flowing down inside the Intake Manifold Runners. If the Intake Manifold is LOOSE (meaning having Less than 89 Inch Pounds on ALL of the IM Fasteners) then the excess Engine Oil can Leak out around the lower areas of the Worn Out IM Rubber Grommet Style Gaskets (Three Figure "8" Shaped Dual Intake Port Gaskets) and then it gravity flows on down beneath the IM Flange onto the Driver's Side of the Engine Block.
And finally ... Whatever Old Motor Oil manages to make it THIS far gets ingested into the Six Intake Ports in the Aluminum Engine Head and then pulled on down inside of the Six Cylinders only to be Burned Up along with the regular Inhaled Air and the Injected Fuel.
The Catalytic Converter somehow manages to combust most of this Residual Crap... so there will rarely be any Tell-Tale Smoke indicating there is any kind of problem. The Extra Gas-Gum and Carbon Trapping of the Compression Rings is THE Primary Culprit and the Instigator of this problem!
gmtnation.com
gmtnation.com
gmtnation.com
AC Delco TEC is available on Amazon:
(1) Very High Mileage Motor...with Piston Slap? YES
(2) Dirty Engine Oil found inside the Air Intake Resonator? ???
(3) Carbon-Gas Gum Trapped "Low Tension" Compression Rings (If (2) is YES... then YES)
(4) Infrequent or High Mileage Oil Changes ???
(5) Oily, Dirty Throttle Body & Oil leaking out from the Intake Manifold Runners Flange? ???
(6) Treated with ACDelco TEC (Top Engine Cleaner) YET? ??? See Linked Threads for Procedures
All of these Symptoms lead to Engine Oil being Pushed by Blow-By Gasses escaping around the Piston Rings pressurizing the Crank Case and Upper Valve Cover Spaces. After the Oil is moved upwards, it gets vacuumed through the Rubber PCV Tube in the front of the upper Valve Cover and it collects down inside of the Air Intake Resonator.
Ultimately, the Old Motor Oil passes on through the Throttle Body via Natural Aspiration and it winds up flowing down inside the Intake Manifold Runners. If the Intake Manifold is LOOSE (meaning having Less than 89 Inch Pounds on ALL of the IM Fasteners) then the excess Engine Oil can Leak out around the lower areas of the Worn Out IM Rubber Grommet Style Gaskets (Three Figure "8" Shaped Dual Intake Port Gaskets) and then it gravity flows on down beneath the IM Flange onto the Driver's Side of the Engine Block.
And finally ... Whatever Old Motor Oil manages to make it THIS far gets ingested into the Six Intake Ports in the Aluminum Engine Head and then pulled on down inside of the Six Cylinders only to be Burned Up along with the regular Inhaled Air and the Injected Fuel.
The Catalytic Converter somehow manages to combust most of this Residual Crap... so there will rarely be any Tell-Tale Smoke indicating there is any kind of problem. The Extra Gas-Gum and Carbon Trapping of the Compression Rings is THE Primary Culprit and the Instigator of this problem!
A.C. Delco Foaming Top End Cleaner....
Good Evening All, I've read about this procedure here on the forum. I'm wondering if it would be OK to do, regardless of if I have carbon build up or oil consumption. I have noticed a small amount of oil accumulated in the intake plenum. I do have a little piston "slap" that goes away upon...
gmtnation.com
I'm going to use the A.C. Delco T.E.C. Liquid or Aerosol?
Hi all. I've decided to do the top end soak with A.C. Delco product. They make it in an aerosol also. Any suggestions on which might be better? After doing some add'l research...It appears the aerosol is made to use while the engine is running by spraying it through the intake. It looks like...
gmtnation.com
Carbon cleaning the 4.2L LL8. Experiment
I have recently performed carbon cleaning on the pistons and valves using a method recommended by @MRRSM and I figured to document the experience for those who would like to pursue this in the future. The method involves pouring AcDelco Top engine cleaner in the spark plug holes. This is NOT a...
gmtnation.com
AC Delco TEC is available on Amazon:
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So I was hearing what I had thought was fan clutch noise on start up, (previous post about my
fan clutch issues) I bought it but did not install. Water pump bearings-junk. Replaced both with
VVT cam position sensor, fresh oil and filter. As I expected this engine is on a fast downward spiral. Loud noise/knock on start-up with oil pressure dropping to zero at idle. I am think of replacing the engine with a used one (80,000 miles for around $1,600 with core charge). Is there any surprises that I should know ahead of time before doing the swap? My tranny had a complete rebuild 18,000 miles ago, thinking if I can get 4 or 5 more years out of it, its short money.
fan clutch issues) I bought it but did not install. Water pump bearings-junk. Replaced both with
VVT cam position sensor, fresh oil and filter. As I expected this engine is on a fast downward spiral. Loud noise/knock on start-up with oil pressure dropping to zero at idle. I am think of replacing the engine with a used one (80,000 miles for around $1,600 with core charge). Is there any surprises that I should know ahead of time before doing the swap? My tranny had a complete rebuild 18,000 miles ago, thinking if I can get 4 or 5 more years out of it, its short money.
Mooseman
Moderator
It might just be the oil pump pickup tube seal or the bypass is stuck open. Another possibility is a plugged pickup screen. Either way, it's a bitch of a job to get to and may not fix the knocking. At that mileage, I probably wouldn't bother with it and go for the whole engine swap.
Just a reminder, all years except 08-09 will work for you. Direct swap are 06-07. 02-05 will work with relocation of the coolant temp sensor wiring.
Just a reminder, all years except 08-09 will work for you. Direct swap are 06-07. 02-05 will work with relocation of the coolant temp sensor wiring.
The engine is an 06. Thanks for the info on the by-pass and pump. What I know is I still would have to find what going on with the oil consumption. Thinking it should be easy to replace the
power steering lines with the engine out.
power steering lines with the engine out.
Mooseman
Moderator
When I swapped the engine, I had to drop the R&P so yeah, good time for the lines. Make sure the replacement engine was well cared for by removing the valve cover and checking for coked oil. I didn't do that and wound up opening that engine up multiple times for multiple issues (VVT cam gear x 2, chain tensioner).