Wheel bearing hub assembly

[far eastan]

another strange noise.
I tested again.
There is no shaking. With a jacking up, a slight sound and vibration have been felt in a situation where the bearing is not loaded.

I can hear the sound from the wheel hub bearing on the driver's seat side and the differential.
At this point, I ordered a wheel hub by express delivery.
Remove the CVAXLE and continue running.

A large bottle cap was attached to the differential hole, but a large amount of oil was leaking.
(bottle cap Diameter 39.5mm (1.555in))
It's not loose, but it may be a little smaller than the gatorade.

CVAXLE, which has been waiting for a long time, has arrived, so it will be attached to the passenger side.
The wheel hub arrives.
Replace the driver's seat side.
The noise is half.
However, there is still noise.

Replaced the passenger side wheel hub, almost eliminated the noise.

If it is not 4WD, the problem may have been solved (if the CVAXLE on the driver's seat is removed).

 

[far eastan]

However, in a previous survey, the sound was heard from the differential, so I installed and tested CVAXLE.
Small noise.

I may need to replace differential.

I look at the parts diagram and take the last challenge.

Rotate the front drive shaft in 2WD.
I don't feel much noise.
Use 4WD to rotate the tires on the passenger side.
I don't feel much noise.


According to "Observation" of the amateur's "The MoveMent of the Differential Parts", the leftmost bearing is not moving.

Is this correct?

And when I turn CVAXLE in the driver's seat, I can feel a clear noise.
Therefore, I decided to exchange 26053326 Front Drive Axle Inner Shaft Bearing.
This is the last hope.

 

[Mike of Maine]

The front hub bearing has not been replaced yet. However, even if the tires were rotated by jacking up, there was no noise or vibration, so the replacement was postponed. The possibility of hub bearing remains slightly. Hi, I'm new here. You are in excellent hands with these guys who are helping you. I don't want to 'jump in uninvited'. I saw that the hub bearing has not been relaced yet. Is this accurate? In an attempt to discover the issue I would separate the axle from the hub to verify the condition of the hubs on both sides of the truck. After the axle and nut are loose, the bearing should rotate with some tension as if there is still grease in the bearings providing some rolling resistance, no chunks or grinding. The hub should not be able to move within the bearing. Wiggle is bad. I have had a hub bearing fail causing a vibration that sounds simiar to your issues. I have also had a driveshaft balance issue that caused similar phantom issues as Tollkeeper explained. I was able to get my driveshaft balanced at a transmission shop. Perhaps you will find luck there. There are truck repair shops locally who offer balance service as well. I have had excellent luck with Timken bearings and Moog suspension. I had 1 Moog hub and it worked well. I have a Mevotech hub that is good for a warranty replace sitting on my floor waiting for recycle. I won' t bother to replace. It failed on install. It is was their XL whatever heavy duty. Utter garbage in my opinion. I hope this helps. I am looking forward to the solution as well!

 

[Mike of Maine]

Perhaps I have answered my question. I would still reinspect hub bearings having had a new unit fail personally. It seems like you're exhausting good suggestions here!

The wheel hub arrives.
Replace the driver's seat side.
The noise is half.
However, there is still noise.

 

[far eastan]

Good evening.

thank you.

I know that it is difficult to understand because I rely on the translation site.

I'm really sorry.


The biggest noise
”4WD disconnect” defect
Solved by replacement

Next loud noise
Driver’s side wheel bearing,
Solved by replacement

Next Small noise
Wheel bearing on the passenger side
It was solved by replacement.

Current problem
It sounds when i rotate the CVAXLE on the driver's side
Front -differential noise

Order 26053326
↑
It's here now.
It seems that there was a strange noise at least 4 places at the same time.
I may even need to exchange differentials.

 

[Mike of Maine]

You are well understood. Far better than if it were me trying to translate! I misread. I am sorry.
I have not actually attempted the front carrier. I am collecting a large parts to lift and upgrade to SS front carrier 4.10 ratio as well as rear, actual SS rack. I have done a LOT of research.
There are write ups about the carrier replace process as well as bearing replacement. You may want to watch some if you haven't. This front carrier and its bearings are somewhat unique in design. You might get lucky if there is issue with the bearing behind the seals. I have only replaced my seal. It 'burned' on the axle shaft requiring replace as well. Easy fix. Replacing the carrier looks like a LOT of work!

 

[Mooseman]

What is the front differential fluid level and condition? Is it leaking? If it was run low on lubricant, it may have been damaged. Try a fluid change. And open the FILL PLUG FIRST before the drain plug in case it is stuck.

I would also check the transfer case fluid. It must be changed every 50 000 miles (80 000 km) and must use Auto Trak II blue fluid.

Check the rear differential fluid level and condition. Check for up and down play at the axle ends as those bearings can go bad and wear into the axle shaft. It would also cause leakage at the axle shaft seal into that side's rear brake.

A little in and out play is normal.

 

[far eastan]

I wanted GT5 someday if possible.

However, SS is not regularly imported to Japan.
Only a small number has been imported.
I don't know if all 5.3Exts are GT5.
I hoped to find the front and rear differential as a set.
It is very rare that there is a TB in junk yards.
So I need a lot of luck to get it.

The reason I wanted GT5 before is a big tire.
However, I chose the way to add an AT cooler.
I bought a cooler, but before I add it, I have to solve the trouble.

However, it may require differential for repair, not custom.
My 4.2EXT is GT4, but it is difficult to find the parts.
Maybe I need to buy for $ 800 on ebay or buy a rebuild for $ 2000 at Rockauto.


I also read various threads.
Currently
Bout Junkyard Front Front Differential..was I Robbed?

Bought junkyard front differential..was I robbed?

With the front diff out of the car sitting in my drive way if I turn the u joint with my hand (A in picture) shouldn't the intermediate shaft (B in picture) turn accordingly...cause the one I got doesn't do that...GT4 3:73..****one in pic is not the one I bought, just the first pic I saw on...

gmtnation.com

I am reading.

It will be a very good textbook for me.

 

[far eastan]

CVAXLE of the driver's side is not installed.
It should not be moving inside the differential.

It is the state of Front Differential Fluid, but it is currently decreasing considerably.
I put on the biggest bottle cap that I can get and wrap it with duct tape, but it is a huge leak.
Looking at the stirring one, it seems that the fluid at the bottom has quite a lot of iron powder. (When the CVAXLE was removed, it was in a beautiful state even after stirring. There was a lot of fluids.)
Two months ago, the fill plug was opened.
Therefore, there is no problem in replacing the oil.
I am looking for a Drainplug gasket 15588383.

The GM parts center costs $ 7 and the shipping cost is $ 90.
It is out of stock at Rockauto.
Amazon does not ship this part to Japan.
It may be the cheapest to buy for $ 40 on ebay.

The gear oil that I always use is not available until next year.
Is the reputation of Royal Purple good?
Since additives etc. are lacking, production is not enough, domestic gear oil is soaring, so you can buy those oils cheaper.

Auto Trak II has one bottle stock and can be used at any time.

 

[far eastan]

Currently around the rear brake, there is no oil leakage.
I tested the tires up and down, but there was no "rattling feeling".


First, replace the bearing and the seal and replace the differential oil.
I will change the oil again soon.
Reuse the gasket and use a new one for the next oil change if it leaks.

everyone,
Thank you for your advice.

 

[TollKeeper]

I may be interested in selling my GT5 front diff..

That being said, you dont really want a GT5 rear diff from a Trailblazer SS. The reason being is this will make it so you need to have your current driveshaft customized to fit.

If you get a rear GT5 differential from a regular Trailblazer/Envoy/GMT360 that is not a TBSS/Aero it will be a direct swap.

That said... (as mentioned earlier in this thread) It sounds like you are dealing with the same thing I was on my Envoy just a couple months ago. I removed the entire front drive system (both CVAxles, Passthru Shaft, and front DriveShaft) and I still had a problem. It turned out that the rear drive shaft was out of balance.

 

[Mooseman]

Since you have an EXT, you have an 8.6 inch larger rear differential. If ever you do find another differential, it has to be from another EXT or one with a V8. The short wheelbase differentials are only 8.0 inch. Like @TollKeeper said, you do not want an SS differential. Your GT4 3.73 gear is fairly decent so a GT6 4.10 would not make that much of a difference. Just so you know for the future.

It is the state of Front Differential Fluid, but it is currently decreasing considerably.

OK so that means it did have a fair amount of oil. Since it is all disconnected, it should not be the source of noise. Once getting things back together, you should do a full fluid replacement. Royal Purple is fine as long as it's 75w90. Same for the rear differential.

That said... (as mentioned earlier in this thread) It sounds like you are dealing with the same thing I was on my Envoy just a couple months ago. I removed the entire front drive system (both CVAxles, Passthru Shaft, and front DriveShaft) and I still had a problem. It turned out that the rear drive shaft was out of balance.

As said by @TollKeeper , I would concentrate on the rear drive shaft. Either it's the universal joints or it is out of balance. Or maybe the transfer case. Maybe the only way to possibly find it would be to jack up all four wheels off the ground and secure on jack stands, then start the engine and put it in drive and then listen and feel for any noises or vibrations.

 

[far eastan]

GT5 is attractive.
But I don't think I will find a "rear differential" before winter.
Because it is heavier than the front, imports will be severe.
The timing is bad and I am very sorry.
I am grateful to you.

Also, I'm really following your path.
I didn't want it (laughs)
I hope it is not a drive shaft.

 

[far eastan]

yes. I agree.
After purchasing, I noticed that Rear Differential had no drain bolt.
I changed the gear oil several times, but the replacement of the gear oil is very troublesome.
For this reason, I decided to buy a differential cover with a drain slug in the future.
To identify the cover, I counted the number of bolts and then found a thin stamp of 8.6.

I read the thread carefully, and in the case of GT4, I found that 35 tires would be fine if I installed the AT cooler for the time being.

I wanted to add good oil as much as possible for "differential".
I put it in the cart on Amazon.

I am very interested in the last proposal.
I wanted to do it.
I wanted to put a car on the jack, start the engine, and move the drive train.
But I thought it might be a taboo.
I can imagine some danger.
However, if it is a often tested for many people, I may be challenged.
I was planning to prepare for the next.
Lift the rear differential to some extent in the jack.
Please let me know if there is extra danger.

It's a bit hesitant to put it in 4WD.

 

[Mooseman]

If your front differential is disconnected from everything else, there should be no problem but to be very certain, I would jack all 4 wheels in the air.

 

[Mike of Maine]

looking for a Drainplug gasket 15588383.

The GM parts center costs $ 7 and the shipping cost is $ 90.
It is out of stock at Rockauto

I bought a kit for my 8.0 that included the gasket, cover and bolts, from Rockauto.com. It is like this GM GENUINE 12479379 kit which I believe would fit your truck/GT4.

you dont really want a GT5 rear diff from a Trailblazer SS. The reason being is this will make it so you need to have your current driveshaft customized to fit.

My truck has a 5.3 with the 3.42 ratio. Someone replaced GT4 with 8" rear end. Imagine my surprise! With a loose pinion bearing and now rusted straight through brake dust shields, I was going to at least replace with GT4. I got lucky with a local guy pulling the engine from a SS. I got the rear end as well as driveshaft and a few other parts. I would have put in the 8.6" otherwise. The SS aren't very common in salvage yards locally either.

wanted to put a car on the jack, start the engine, and move the drive train.
But I thought it might be a taboo.
I can imagine some danger.

I support the truck well with good quality stands rated for the weight on a solid, flat surface. I do this as a matter of practice after a scary incident many years ago with a frisky Camaro sliding off a jack.
If I were doing this work, I would want another person to help, observe and be safe!
.

 

[far eastan]

If your front differential is disconnected from everything else, there should be no problem but to be very certain, I would jack all 4 wheels in the air.

Yes, I plan to install a car on the four jack stands and float all the tires in the air.
I mentioned earlier,
"Lift the Rear Differential to Some Extent in the Jack."

I was going to lift "Rear Differential, which has fallen down to the limit" with a jack to get closer to the state of the road.
Four jack stands and one other jack will be used.
I'm sorry for the confusion.

Before that, the seal and bearing arrived first, so I will replace it.
This morning, a little snow was piled up.
Winter begins soon.

 

[far eastan]

I bought a kit for my 8.0 that included the gasket, cover and bolts, from Rockauto.com. It is like this GM GENUINE 12479379 kit which I believe would fit your truck/GT4.

thank you.

It is a small gasket for the front differential drain drag.
I looked for it, but I couldn't find anything for the front.
The GM manual did not say that it was not reused, so let's reuse it.
I registered with Rockauto to get an email when the product arrives.
It is unknown whether there is a plan to arrive, so I will look for other places at the same time.

I also saw a "comment" that SWB has all three types of differentials.
EXT also has a different rear drive shaft.
Also, I do not understand the "type" of the rear differential, the existence of LSD, as a result, how many final combinations are. I have to investigate someday.

When is Camaro?
Corvette likes early things,
Camaro also likes the 5th generation and 6th generation.

Ah, I noticed Maine. My closet may have the most "Main State" brand.
However, winter boots are not bean boots but Canadian polar bears.

 

[Mike of Maine]

I have serviced my front diff. I don't recall a gasket replacement on the fill plug. Perhaps an o-ring? It would be reusable if in good shape.
Indeed there are a fair number of combinations avail for these trucks. As mentioned, my truck has 8" and a G80 locker in it. The 9.5" has the Auburn LSD. I am looking forward to trying this combination. I suspect I will be changing to a full locking diff to better suit off road demands. Each has trade-offs.
I currently have 3 slightly different length driveshafts. I am hopeful one will fit without modifications.
There were also different size U joints used in the 14 bolt pinion. I will get it balanced after all length and joint sizing are finished.
As things stand now, winter is upon us. We had a light snow and cold temperatures now.
My focus is on our other car, a Focus. (Please don't hate for this. Its a cheap commuter car with 250,00pGetting both new bearings in front, inner and outer tie rod on left so far. I have most recently been working on alignment before I pull apart the right side and mess align up thoroughly! At least I can TRY to get it close before I bring it to the shop.

 

[Mike of Maine]

I glitched and pressed "post before I was finished!
My point was that unfortunately, I ran out of warm days to paint parts. I have garage space but none currently availible to use for a long project as I anticipate. My Envoy project is going to have to wait. Also, the Camaro was a second generation with ugly rubber bumpers. It had a 305 and a 4 speed with a posi 10 bolt rear axle. It was a fun car but not anything spectacular.
LL Bean is nearby. They do make some good quality products. My winter boots are Muck brand. I have about worn them out after 5 years (I think) of good use. I need to get shopping for some replacements.

 

[far eastan]

hello everyone.



I have now finished everything I can expect.
The driver's CV axle was also attached, repeatedly removed to confirm the noise of the bearing.
Differential SEAL and bearings have been replaced.
There was no problem with the drive shaft.

The most difficult thing was the installation of CVAXLE.
There was no problem with the insertion on the passenger side I went to before, but the driver side was difficult.
I struggled for a long time, hit a rubber hammer or a plastic hammer, but not succeeded.
I ultimately hit the shaft with a 4LB hammer while fighting the fear of lacking the spline.
It smelled like a fire stone, but it was inserted.
I hope there is no new problem. Most noise and vibration are gone.
However, there is a weak vibration like a mirage.
People in the passenger seat say that there is no problem.
However, there is a faint vibration on the steering, the accelerator pedal, and the left foot placed on the floor.
It feels like a slightly small sand is chewing on the rotating shaft.
Like a soap with a scrub ...
Yesterday, I did the final test run.
I ran about 50km (30mi), but I felt vibration for about 1/8 time.
At first it was clear, and it was hardly felt in the second half.
There is a problem, but I think I will take a break.
The snow has fallen, so the switch is Auto, but a new problem may occur when it becomes 4WD.
There is little possibility, but I will replace the caliper because the brakes are stuck.
It's snowing now.
This is the LLB field court.

The second -generation Camaro is a design that does not exist outside the United States.
Very powerful design.

 

[Mooseman]

I suggest you use 2wd when the extra traction is not needed and 4hi when you do need it. Auto basically keeps the front wheels locked and engages the transfer case to send power to the front wheels only when rear wheel slip is detected. This puts extra wear on the transfer case clutches as well as damage the intermediate shaft over time. It also uses more fuel when it's not needed as it spins the front driveshaft needlessly. In Canada, I never use auto and we have lots of snow.

 

[far eastan]

In Canada, you don't use Auto?
I was surprised.
Maybe there aren't many dry roads during the winter?
I remember your advice well.


The following is an aside.

I also use 4HI on mountain roads, passes, and suburbs.

The town where I live is a city with a large population, and the road situation is mosaic.
The population is about 2 million.
The average snowfall is about 5 meters.
The traffic volume is very large,
There are many places where road heating is performed on intersections with high traffic and slopes.
Snow roads, ice roads, black ice, dry asphalt, sherbet roads, and Washboard Roads are scattered at the same time and short distance.
There are differences depending on where I run, but I need to switch between 4WD and 2WD many times while running 1 km.
So, depending on the destination, I always wonder whether to use Auto or use 4HI.

I found an interesting article.
Accuweather (USA) Survey
Yearly Snowfall Ranking by City
Cities with over 100,000 People
No.1: Aomori (JP) (Approx. 7.92m)
No.2: Sapporo (JP) (Approx. 4.85m)
No.3: TOYAMA (JP) (APPROX. 3.63m)
No.4: St. John's (Canada) (Approx. 3.32m)
No.5: Syracuse (USA), Quebec City (Canada) (APPROX. 3.14m)

As you know, the major difference between Japan and "USA and Canada" is the size of the land.
Land area
JP 378,000 Square Kilometers.
Canada 9,985,000 Square Kilometers.
1:27
population
JP　125,700,000
Canada　37,000,000
1: 0.294
Japan is dense in small land.
If you know the details, you may laugh.😁

 

[Mooseman]

Average snowfall here in Ottawa is 2.25M/year. Not as much as your area but still a fair amount. However, we use A LOT of salt to melt the snow and ice except when below -15c where it's ineffective. We just have too many roads and intersections to use any kind of electrical heating, which may also be ineffective in our extreme cold.

I usually use 4hi when it is snowing and/or roads are still snow covered. For short distances of bare road, like at intersections that have been salted, I leave it in 4hi for that short distance.

As proof that Auto is not a good thing, the models that have non-selectable always Auto transfer cases, like the Buick Rainier and the Saab 9-7x, have regular wear of the intermediate shaft, as per this image, as the shock when it engages eventually strips it and also destroys the disconnect (which actually doesn't disconnect).

You've probably noticed the "slip/bang" effect when the rear wheels slip and the front wheels engage. That's what eventually happens.

 

[far eastan]

thank you.
Does it include turning when you run a short distance at 4 Hi at an intersection?

Also, I knew "slip/Bang", but when I slipped on the ice road yesterday, there was no Bang.

Is there a signal that shows the state of "" 4WD or 2WD "in OBD2?
I have a dash command, Obdlink, and CAR GAUGE PRO.
CAR GAUGE is an old application, but I got advice that all error codes can be grasped.




I used to think that it was no problem to run a short dry asphalt (straight line) in 4HI.
However, we exchanged universal joints and drove 4 Hi on a small distance on a straight road.
I understand Tight-Corner Brakuing Phenomenon.

After that, I ran 2000 km without any problems, and then experienced the abnormal noise and vibration.
At that time, you warned the danger of 4HI.
It may be a coincidence, but I am very nervous. (lol)

 

[Mooseman]

As long as it's not a tight turn, it's not too bad. The phenomenon is called crow hopping. I once drove mine on dry asphalt for 100km because it was stuck. No ill effect.

Is there a signal that shows the state of "" 4WD or 2WD "in OBD2?
I have a dash command, Obdlink, and CAR GAUGE PRO.
CAR GAUGE is an old application, but I got advice that all error codes can be grasped

There should be a way. @TJBaker57 is our SME on that.

 

[TJBaker57]

Is there a signal that shows the state of "" 4WD or 2WD "in OBD2?
I have a dash command, Obdlink, and CAR GAUGE PRO.
CAR GAUGE is an old application, but I got advice that all error codes can be grasped.

The TCCM does not support the method by which all of these apps request live data. The apps you listed cannot read live data from the TCCM. (4wd controller)

That said, for some TCCMs I can instruct how to read the information directly from TCCM memory using Torque Pro and possibly OBD Fusion and Car Scanner ELM OBD2.

The memory locations are not the same across various TCCM part numbers and calibrations but I have several combinations that work.


So there is not a way to read 4WD system with your current apps but it "might" be possible with a custom setup in a different app. No guarantees though.

 

[far eastan]

As long as it's not a tight turn, it's not too bad. The phenomenon is called crow hopping. I once drove mine on dry asphalt for 100km because it was stuck. No ill effect.

thank you.
I consider using 4HI mainly.

There should be a way. @TJBaker57 is our SME on that.

I understand well.
Because I had already solved the 4WD problem with his advice.

 

[far eastan]

The TCCM does not support the method by which all of these apps request live data. The apps you listed cannot read live data from the TCCM. (4wd controller)

That said, for some TCCMs I can instruct how to read the information directly from TCCM memory using Torque Pro and possibly OBD Fusion and Car Scanner ELM OBD2.

The memory locations are not the same across various TCCM part numbers and calibrations but I have several combinations that work.


So there is not a way to read 4WD system with your current apps but it "might" be possible with a custom setup in a different app. No guarantees though.

thank you.
I always remember that I had you helped in a 4WD trouble.
thank you very much.

CARGAUGEPRO also needs it to get the trouble code at that time.
I was taught by you.
Each app seems to have individuality.

I think it's better to think about introducing a torque Pro.
The car I had owned before was lighted on the center cluster panel when using 4WD.
So I wondered if there was a simple signal, but it doesn't seem to be the case.


everyone,
everytime,
Thank you very much.