well this sucks!!
- Thread starter Zack2003
- Start date
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Tiggerr
Member
Luckily the broke off flush with the manifold flange so when I take it off I'll have some bolt sticking out of the head. That's if no more break off when removing the manifold
HARDTRAILZ
Moderator
- Nov 18, 2011
- 49,665
I will just do the bolts. Me and my wife have a baby due in 6 days so it will be about 2 weeks before I attempt it. Honestly kinda nervous lol really don't want to pull the head off. Going to try the welding a washer and nut to it
Mix up a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone as a penetrating oil. I use a spray bottle to apply it. The acetone will disolve plastic so i just use a cheap one and throw it away afterwards.
{tpc}
Member
- Jan 22, 2014
- 359
Since you have some time, you might do a google search on "GM exhaust manifold bolt repair kit". Don't ask me how I stumbled across this, but I did.
It seems a interesting, inexpensive fix that might be easier than removing broken bolts. Kral auto I think was the place that makes them, even have youtube videos on the install. I think dorman also makes one.
Nothing like doing it the correct way, that I know. But this might be a decent stopgap in the meantime. Doing it the right way seems like one of those 2 hour turned into 3 days type of jobs. I've seen posts online of people spending upwards of $1900 to do it all they way down to $300. The most expensive came from the OS, and that guy had his heads pulled and machined which seems a bit like overkill.
Essentially what this kit does is uses some empty bolt holes on the engine..must have been left there for shipping or something, and you bolt a thick piece of metal to that which also has a nut welded into it that lines up over the broken manifold bolt area. You then run a bolt down through that allowing you to press the flange back up to the engine. A clamp of sorts if you will.
Maybe its snake oil, I dunno. Saw it, thought I'd pass it along. The manifold bolts don't seem like they are torqued on with extreme pressure, which would lead me to believe they are easier to remove. But with the amount of heat cycles they see and how rusty they tend to get, I can see the "good" ones either breaking or just a pain to remove...especially in such close quarters.
It seems a interesting, inexpensive fix that might be easier than removing broken bolts. Kral auto I think was the place that makes them, even have youtube videos on the install. I think dorman also makes one.
Nothing like doing it the correct way, that I know. But this might be a decent stopgap in the meantime. Doing it the right way seems like one of those 2 hour turned into 3 days type of jobs. I've seen posts online of people spending upwards of $1900 to do it all they way down to $300. The most expensive came from the OS, and that guy had his heads pulled and machined which seems a bit like overkill.
Essentially what this kit does is uses some empty bolt holes on the engine..must have been left there for shipping or something, and you bolt a thick piece of metal to that which also has a nut welded into it that lines up over the broken manifold bolt area. You then run a bolt down through that allowing you to press the flange back up to the engine. A clamp of sorts if you will.
Maybe its snake oil, I dunno. Saw it, thought I'd pass it along. The manifold bolts don't seem like they are torqued on with extreme pressure, which would lead me to believe they are easier to remove. But with the amount of heat cycles they see and how rusty they tend to get, I can see the "good" ones either breaking or just a pain to remove...especially in such close quarters.
Hey guys quick question what bolts should I use to replace the old ones/broke ones ? Just the factory bolt or a aftermarket bolt?
{tpc}
Member
- Jan 22, 2014
- 359
From what I've read, and you might do some more research into this lol, the factory are grade 5, and guys are replacing with grade 8.
There is also some concern if you have an aluminum block vs a cast iron block and the use of stainless steel bolts....something about dissimilar metals?
I'm just grabbing this off the top of my head. Have you started the job? Or just getting prepped up?
There is also some concern if you have an aluminum block vs a cast iron block and the use of stainless steel bolts....something about dissimilar metals?
I'm just grabbing this off the top of my head. Have you started the job? Or just getting prepped up?
Mooseman
Moderator
When I was swapping the 4.2L out of my EXT and had to replace the manifold, there were 3 or 4 of the originals that were broken. I think the factory ones are torque-to-yield, just like the head bolts. They break if you look at them funny. For the manifold, I used 10.8 grade metric bolts instead of OEM, no problems so far.
Just getting prepped up. Baby do in 5 days so I'm going to hold off until a week after he's born. But I'm going ahead and getting everything ordered and ready. Talked to my machinest today and he said if they do break and I can't get them out he will do it for 15 a bolt if I bring him the head so that's not bad. And also he will rebuild the heads for 180 so I mite get them rebuilt if I have them off. Hopefully I won't have to
pretty excited!Where did you buy those bolts at? At a local parts store or Lowes or were they special order?
Mooseman said:
I keep reading that ARP bolts are good and a grade 8 but there stainless. Is that a bad thing?
Mooseman
Moderator
Not sure about stainless because of the aluminum head. ARP might have info on it.
I got my grade 10.8 at a local fastener supply store (they have every type of fastener imaginable).
I got my grade 10.8 at a local fastener supply store (they have every type of fastener imaginable).
I have been reading a insane amount about this and just in case you guys do this in the future the hole threw the exhaust manifold is the exact same size as the bolt and when they heat up and expand it puts a lot of force on the bolt so they say to drill the manifold the the next bolt size and it will help a lot. I'm going to do this
I've got two broken on my 5.3 - one on each side. I can somewhat get to one, but tried drilling and removing w/ extractor after liberal amounts of Kroil and still snapped the extractor. Head is coming off for the repair. The manifolds really do seem like a poor design given that snapped bolts is so common.
