Water soaking the carpet on the drivers side, do not have a sunroof.
- Thread starter Rudeawakening
- Start date
07ChevyTruck
Member
- Dec 5, 2011
- 774
- Jan 25, 2012
- 147
*UPDATE
Ok, i dried out my carpets and put everything back together. I have had problems with my DIC reading unkown and beeping at me with my other service lights on, it would do this every few seconds and it was really annoying. I took apart and removed my center console so i could get to a ground to clean and inspect it. After that i dried out my carpet. I did this yesterday and everything has been working perfect!
See "p1271 and random unknown driver" for more info. Thanks guys for all your help, I can finally enjoy my TB. Ill keep an eye on everything and keep you guys posted.
See my post #12 on the fist section. I have 2 picutures side by side, the one on the right is of the A-phrame. I pulled off the cover to get to it, its easy to do, you just have carefully pull it off, its held in by clips, thats it. When i went through a car wash I watched water drip down. So i sealed it and left the cover off for a while. I soaked it, ran it through rain/snow and car washes and didnt see any leaks. I dont have a sun roof but I hope that helps you.
Ok, i dried out my carpets and put everything back together. I have had problems with my DIC reading unkown and beeping at me with my other service lights on, it would do this every few seconds and it was really annoying. I took apart and removed my center console so i could get to a ground to clean and inspect it. After that i dried out my carpet. I did this yesterday and everything has been working perfect!
See "p1271 and random unknown driver" for more info. Thanks guys for all your help, I can finally enjoy my TB. Ill keep an eye on everything and keep you guys posted.WillyGood said:
See my post #12 on the fist section. I have 2 picutures side by side, the one on the right is of the A-phrame. I pulled off the cover to get to it, its easy to do, you just have carefully pull it off, its held in by clips, thats it. When i went through a car wash I watched water drip down. So i sealed it and left the cover off for a while. I soaked it, ran it through rain/snow and car washes and didnt see any leaks. I dont have a sun roof but I hope that helps you.
07ChevyTruck
Member
- Dec 5, 2011
- 774
Nice Rudeawakening! 
I knew that wet carpet would cause some sort of problem. Glad to see you got it under controll.
I knew that wet carpet would cause some sort of problem. Glad to see you got it under controll.
- Jan 25, 2012
- 147
Ok, I dried out my carpets sunday and have not had a problem untill today. It was raining this morning and sure enough my lights started going crazy, I checked the driver side carpet again and it was getting wet. I noticed that the carpet was hardly damp near the door but it seemed soaked on the other side like near the gas pedal which i thought was weird. Anybody have any idea where the leak could be coming from now? My crazy beeping lights problem looks like its definatly related to my carpet getting wet. When i dried it out the first time it was totally fine. I hope someone knows where the leak is at, i just want this thing fixed lol 
Rude Did you check all around the windshield with compressed air. Don't stop at the first spot that air comes thru. Blow from the inside out. Have someone doing the blowing and you follow right where they are with the air gun. It should be leaking between the molding and the body. If it is leaking between the glass and the molding that is much harder to make look nice. You may have to run a bead of windshield soft butel chalking. It does not go hard and stays soft. Messy to clean up but works. Go all around the windshield 3 sides but if you find the leak just do the area. If you got the windshield just replaced go back and bitch, the place should stand behind their work.
- Jan 25, 2012
- 147
Fire06 said:
OK. First will I have to take anything apart to get to the bottom? I know ill have to take off my A-frame pillar cover, which is easy, to get to the sides but what about along the bottom? espically for caulking? Would the top be concern? I dont think it is becuase it would drip right down and i would see it unless theres something that im not aware. The "windshield soft butel chalking" is what I should use no matter what on correct? and I should caulk from the inside right? Are there other places that are know to leak i should check while im checking my windshield? I heard something with the windshield whippers tend to leak as well. Thanks for all your help.
When I was replacing windshields to check for a leak we took nothing off. Just run the air nozzle around the inside A pillar and the roof and hopefully you find the leak. As far as fixing it, chalk on the outside between the molding and the body. You should be able to get the tip of the chalking gun/nozzle in there. Blow the area out to dry it before you chalk it. You said if I remember the truck was sitting during the last rain storm when the carpets got wet. If so the bottom should be fine because water doesn't follow up hill as they say. The only other thing if you are having trouble finding it is to remove the A pillar moldings like you said pull the carpet back and run the hose on the truck and watch where it comes from. If it was the bottom you usually would here a wind whistle when driving. If the water is coming in on the fire wall the hose running on the truck should show where. I really think it is the A pillar or the top. Water is amazing how it can flow and trickle to come in now where near the leak. Let me know how it goes.
- Jan 25, 2012
- 147
No, the windshield has not been replaced. Your saying blow the air from the inside and i should be able feel air coming through where ever the leaks at. My first leak I got and fixed was in the top corner of the drivers side, how ever I used the regular caulk and not the kind your saying to use and i did it from inside and not the outside. Could water still be getting in and just flow somewhere else into the carpet that I dont see? Would you mind post a few pics to see where exacly to cualk, i just dont want to caulk the wrong think or make it look like crap. Sorry for all the questions but I just want to do a good job.
07ChevyTruck
Member
- Dec 5, 2011
- 774
- Jan 25, 2012
- 147
07ChevyTruck
Member
- Dec 5, 2011
- 774
Rudeawakening said:
It does a little that is if that is where the water is starting to come in from.
Sorry for the delay . Yes the pictures do help. I also went out and looked at my truck so I could explain better. What you want to do first is to find the leak. In area #1 the rubber is covering screws so that you can remove that molding. You can just peel the rubber to expose the screws or pull it out so you can get at them. You should be able to just exposes the screws so that you do not have to take it all out. Can not remember which is easier but the rubber will push back in just do not ripe it taking it out., Remove gently you will see how to as you do it. The molding once the screws are all out will come off it might have some two sided tap on it but it will come off , just work it and be careful. Now blow the air from the inside or out feeling for the leak. On the roof it would be easier to blow from the inside and then feel on the outside. When you removed the molding is it full of rust at all. We will say you found the leak now. On the side 1st . Just run a bead up the side smooth it with your finger then clean the edge of the glass leaving it on the edge put the molding on clean it better all is good. If it is on the roof it will be harder. If we take your picture and put it on the roof that will give us the orientation to do this. The rubber molding will have to be warm so we can get at it from position #1. We used a nylon type tool that we could push in to open it so we could get the nozzle pushed in to fill it across the top, do not pry to hard or you could possibly crack the glass, just be careful and you will have no problems and do not rip it. Then take the nylon tool and work the molding back down, clean up use a solvent that won't hurt the paint. Hopefully I have explained it better thanks for the picture. The nylon tool could be something that is not to flexible but won't scratch the paint. The caulking should be the stuff that does not harden.
- Jan 25, 2012
- 147
I appreciaten all your information and hard work to help me, I really do. As much as I would like to do this myself, I do not have the proper tools, equipment, space or time at all. I called gerber collosion and glass and asked them a few prices. They said to reseal the windshield cost $170 no warrenty. To replace the windshield is $220 with a lifetime warrenty. I asked him if window leaks were common with my vehicle and hesaid "Yeah, chevys in general have leaking problems with their windshields" which now that i think about it, all my cars iv had were chevys and just about all of them the driver side carpet would get wet. Im thinking about just getting the windshield replaced and resealed that way for an extra $50 im cover for life. Since I already found one spot it was leaking at im sure theres more. I would love to do this myself but I just cant. What do you guys think? Id like to know your respected opions
For 170 if they are just resealing whats there , or i'm assuming by replacing it they are pulling it and then putting it back in. The prices do not seem terrible but not great depending on what is done.
- Jan 25, 2012
- 147
Fire06 said:
For 220 they said im getting a new windshield, but my biggest thing is that its a lifetime warrenty for an extra $50, for 170 its just resealed and if they missed a spot or did shoty work, its on me. So I think im going with that.
If your sure it is under that black pillar. in the pic ,take all the stuff out you put in and use this.
SARBCO.com: 8634 3M™ Window-Weld™ Resealant
it will flow into all the cracks and holes. but if you do this, put something on the dash in case it leaks through the holes . it makes a mess and hard to clean up. Will not come off clothes . And have the cleaner it recommends . and a whole roll of paper towels .If there is rust ,must be cleaned and primed .
SARBCO.com: 8634 3M™ Window-Weld™ Resealant
it will flow into all the cracks and holes. but if you do this, put something on the dash in case it leaks through the holes . it makes a mess and hard to clean up. Will not come off clothes . And have the cleaner it recommends . and a whole roll of paper towels .If there is rust ,must be cleaned and primed .
- Jan 25, 2012
- 147
lint said:
Im not sure where the leak is, I saw one spot but and sealed it but my carpet is still getting soaked when it rains.
- Jan 25, 2012
- 147
I took my trailblazer over to safelite auto. They checked for leaks around the windshield and couldnt find any leaks and said the seal looks fine around the windshield. I lifted up my carpet and saw a little water around the 4x4 cable where it runs up through the floor board, the carpet was damp around it too. I noticed a little leak coming from a hole where a cable mounts at on the wall near the hood release leaver.
View attachment 19482
I sealed both of em, so I hope this is it. Well see what happens. Ill keep you guys posted.
View attachment 19482
I sealed both of em, so I hope this is it. Well see what happens. Ill keep you guys posted.
Attachments
WillyGood
Member
- Jan 31, 2012
- 42
Rudeawaking, this is the same exact problem I had a couple of weeks ago. Everything is identical to the places you are finding the water to the steps that you have taken to correct it. I found a service bulletin that helped me and I can almost guarantee it will fix your problem too. I guess I should have just posted the info in this thread rather then starting a new one? Here is the link. I hope it helps.
http://gmtnation.com/f23/service-bulletin-refering-water-leaks-trailblazers-2277/
http://gmtnation.com/f23/service-bulletin-refering-water-leaks-trailblazers-2277/
- Jan 25, 2012
- 147
WillyGood said:
Thanks, but I looked at your pictures and what you wrote and it wasnt the same problems as mine minus the leak on the top corner of the A frame. both of my leaks that i seemed to have found came from the floor. One was at my the cable coming up though the floor board and another was right under the hoodlease lever near the floor, both on the driver side.
WillyGood
Member
- Jan 31, 2012
- 42
Rudeawakening said:
Me too. I thought it was coming from that cable also because that's where it collects and seamed the wettest. But it wasn't. It comes down the a frame and drips down right next to the hood release. Mine was only on the drivers side too. Try those four screws that hold that piece of molding on, on the side of the windshield.
- Jan 25, 2012
- 147
WillyGood said:
Sorry for being so late to respond. If I remember correctly the molding was covering those 4 screws on the driver side A-pillar on the outside. After I removed that I saw 4 screws and i caulked them all very good. After that I have not had any problems with my carpet getting wet. If anyone reading this was experiancing the same problem The first I would do is seal the 4 screws on the A-pillar, The screws are on the outside, not inside, and are covered by the molding that cuases a seal around your car door so no water gets in. All you have to do is peel it off and youll have access to the screws and than caulk em up. Hopefully that will fix your problems as it did mine. Thanks everyone for all you help