Water pump leak and roaring noise from engine at high rpm's

goatfrom70

Original poster
Member
Oct 28, 2013
13
I did some research on this site and others, regarding my 2004 T-blazer EXT 4.2L I6. With the help of this site, I came to the conclusion that the fan clutch and water pump need replaced. Would this be a good assumption? Vehicle currently has just under 161,000 miles on it. Of all my vehicles that I've owned, this one by far, has been the most dependable vehicle. We bought this vehicle in 2006 with under 30,000 miles. It has not leaked anything until 9 months or so ago when I had the current water pump and idler pulley replaced. I don't remember it making the howling noise at that time. Yea, this water pump only has 3000-4000 miles on it...and it's leaking already. Ugh!

Thanks in advance, Spencer.
 

strat81

Member
Dec 29, 2011
399
Sounds like it's time for a new fan clutch and AC Delco water pump.

Might as well flush the old coolant out and replace with new Dex-Cool since you'll lose quite a bit and make a mess when pulling the pump. New t-stat while you're in there if it hasn't been done in the past 50k miles is a good idea too.

Inspect your radiator hoses too.
 

jonbo2002

Member
Sep 27, 2012
213
goatfrom70 said:
I did some research on this site and others, regarding my 2004 T-blazer EXT 4.2L I6. With the help of this site, I came to the conclusion that the fan clutch and water pump need replaced. Would this be a good assumption? Vehicle currently has just under 161,000 miles on it. Of all my vehicles that I've owned, this one by far, has been the most dependable vehicle. We bought this vehicle in 2006 with under 30,000 miles. It has not leaked anything until 9 months or so ago when I had the current water pump and idler pulley replaced. I don't remember it making the howling noise at that time. Yea, this water pump only has 3000-4000 miles on it...and it's leaking already. Ugh!

Thanks in advance, Spencer.

did you install it yourself? if it wasn't torqued right it could have warped, either way there should be a warranty on it, right??? the howling dose sound like your fan but it may be staying on because of it starting to overheat. At 161 though and having to pull it to change the waterpump anyway might as well replace it too.
 

goatfrom70

Original poster
Member
Oct 28, 2013
13
strat81 said:
Sounds like it's time for a new fan clutch and AC Delco water pump.

Might as well flush the old coolant out and replace with new Dex-Cool since you'll lose quite a bit and make a mess when pulling the pump. New t-stat while you're in there if it hasn't been done in the past 50k miles is a good idea too.

Inspect your radiator hoses too.

Will do man, i was planning on replacing all the fluid, not sure when it was flushed last anyway. The stat was placed about 3 yrs ago. Hoses look good. Do you recommend an ac delco or is an after market new good enough? Thanks.
 

goatfrom70

Original poster
Member
Oct 28, 2013
13
jonbo2002 said:
did you install it yourself? if it wasn't torqued right it could have warped, either way there should be a warranty on it, right??? the howling dose sound like your fan but it may be staying on because of it starting to overheat. At 161 though and having to pull it to change the waterpump anyway might as well replace it too.

jonbo2002, it was replaced by a well trusted repair shop. I allow him to work on my goat, so he has to be good...lol. Temp gauge has been good. Hoses good. Stat was replaced 3yrs ago. So either way both should be replaced at this point, would you agree? thanks man.
 

strat81

Member
Dec 29, 2011
399
goatfrom70 said:
Will do man, i was planning on replacing all the fluid, not sure when it was flushed last anyway. The stat was placed about 3 yrs ago. Hoses look good. Do you recommend an ac delco or is an after market new good enough? Thanks.

Some aftermarket brands have better reputations than others, but the AC Delcos aren't too bad. Certainly better than 5k miles!
 

goatfrom70

Original poster
Member
Oct 28, 2013
13
strat81 said:
Some aftermarket brands have better reputations than others, but the AC Delcos aren't too bad. Certainly better than 5k miles!

Thanks strat81, I appreciate the info. I'm sure the price difference is like 30 or 40 bucks right? I was eyeing up a Duralast at the moment....46.00 at autozone. Fan Clutch....200.00 at autozone. They all seem to be priced at 199.99. Any good/bad fan clutches to watch for? Do you recommend an AC Delco fan clutch too? Is a pcm upgrade or revision necessary after this shadetree work is done, or is this pretty much plug and play?
 

strat81

Member
Dec 29, 2011
399
goatfrom70 said:
Thanks strat81, I appreciate the info. I'm sure the price difference is like 30 or 40 bucks right? I was eyeing up a Duralast at the moment....46.00 at autozone. Fan Clutch....200.00 at autozone. They all seem to be priced at 199.99. Any good/bad fan clutches to watch for? Do you recommend an AC Delco fan clutch too? Is a pcm upgrade or revision necessary after this shadetree work is done, or is this pretty much plug and play?

The AC Delco pump 252822 is $40 at RockAuto, $45 at Amazon.

Dorman fan clutch 622-001 is $117 at RA, $122 at Amazon. I put a new Dorman in my Buick - it works, but it ticks like crazy, far more than the OEM. However, there are many happy Dorman users. The AC Delco fan clutch is around $220 at both places.

Install of both should be plug and play, no dealer trip necessary.

Spray some penetrating oil on the fan clutch nut a few days before you start this. I got lucky and could get the nut loose without a fan clutch tool, I just left the belt on and the friction that provided was enough. Others are not so lucky.
 

goatfrom70

Original poster
Member
Oct 28, 2013
13
strat81 said:
The AC Delco pump 252822 is $40 at RockAuto, $45 at Amazon.

Dorman fan clutch 622-001 is $117 at RA, $122 at Amazon. I put a new Dorman in my Buick - it works, but it ticks like crazy, far more than the OEM. However, there are many happy Dorman users. The AC Delco fan clutch is around $220 at both places.

Install of both should be plug and play, no dealer trip necessary.

Spray some penetrating oil on the fan clutch nut a few days before y@ou start this. I got lucky and could get the nut loose without a fan clutch tool, I just left the belt on and the friction that provided was enough. Others are not so lucky.
Thanks much...strat81. I was actually just on RA's site. I believe that the nut size is 1 1/2"...sound about right to you? I may just rent the tool just in case i break the wrench...did that a time or two.:redface:
 

LordBear

Member
Dec 22, 2011
186
had same issue few months ago... on my way to town... fan clutch went out and car went in to limp mode... so replaced fan clutch and water pump at same time..dont think it needed it but did it any how since i was there... i had to go to a used tool store to get the right size wrench $20 for a proto 1 7/16
 

moneypit

Member
Dec 7, 2011
214
If you have a air compressor, get a hold of a airhammer/chisel (harbor freight $14.00 chisels incl.) & a rap or 2 it will loosen right up..piece a cake!
 

goatfrom70

Original poster
Member
Oct 28, 2013
13
triz said:
+1 on the air hammer if you can. Get the Hayden/Behr its OEM and made in the USA!

Price Drop on it as well.

Amazon.com: Hayden, Inc. 3200 Thermal Fan Clutch: Automotive:thumbsup:

Darn it! I already ordered the part listed below......doh! Will this be good? It doesn't say that it is severe duty reverse rotation.

DORMAN Part # 622001 {#15293048, 25790869} One of our most popular parts
Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide. Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the Canadian Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide. Trailblazer EXT; LS Model; Electronically Controlled by the ECM
Part Image
$116.79
 

goatfrom70

Original poster
Member
Oct 28, 2013
13
moneypit said:
If you have a air compressor, get a hold of a airhammer/chisel (harbor freight $14.00 chisels incl.) & a rap or 2 it will loosen right up..piece a cake!

Thanks for the response moneypit....cool screen name....we all have moneypits right.
 

goatfrom70

Original poster
Member
Oct 28, 2013
13
LordBear said:
had same issue few months ago... on my way to town... fan clutch went out and car went in to limp mode... so replaced fan clutch and water pump at same time..dont think it needed it but did it any how since i was there... i had to go to a used tool store to get the right size wrench $20 for a proto 1 7/16

Thanks lordbear. Nice ride. The help is much appreciated!
 

Deano

Member
Dec 24, 2012
34
I replaced my fan clutch, water pump and gasket, and serpentine belt earlier this year and I ordered it all from Amazon. All together, the order was less than $200, s&h included.

I got the Dorman 622-001 Electronic Clutch Fan, ACDelco 252-822 Water Pump Assembly, ACDelco 251-2029 Gasket, and the Dayco 5060915 Serpentine Belt.

I'd have to say, I'm very happy with all of them.
 

goatfrom70

Original poster
Member
Oct 28, 2013
13
.....to all of you who assisted me with my questions regarding my T-Blazer. The shop that installed my water pump in Feb of 2013, covered the replacement and coolant, and threw in the new clutch fan as well. No charge for all. All is well. Now it is time to focus on the driver's side front and rear speakers not working. I'll probably just replace them all. I wonder if it is a difficult job?

Thanks again to all! Very much appreciated! Spencer.
 

strat81

Member
Dec 29, 2011
399
goatfrom70 said:
Now it is time to focus on the driver's side front and rear speakers not working. I'll probably just replace them all. I wonder if it is a difficult job?

There are vids on youtube showing how to remove the door panels.
 

palitoiii

Member
Dec 5, 2011
77
Ive been having a Coolant leak for a few months now also. I changed the fan clutch water pump and thermostat in 2009. Well I have been seeing this leak on the drivers side oil pan and drips off the front left corner of the oil pan to the plastic cover under engine. So i did my oil change 2 weeks ago and since i had it lifted i checked everything. I checked the thermostat and hoses. Dry. Nothing from these places. So i checked under the water pump and ran my finger it was somewhat dry but dirty with black stuff. So i said forget it. i took it to my mechanic on the Dec. 23rd. I told him same thing i just said here. He changed the water pump and said it was that. I turn on this morning and go out check under see if its leaking. Same lil drop of Antifreeze on front left corner of the plastic engine oil pan cover. What the heck... Could it be the water pump? Could it be timing CHAIN cover? Hope not. This is getting me mad....
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
Pressure wash it squeaky clean and it will help you spot where it starts leaking up again.
 

palitoiii

Member
Dec 5, 2011
77
Thats the thing roadie my engine is pretty darn clean. Friends and people who know me make fun of me and say they can eat off the engine. Well except for this dag dexcool stuff. I checked today on my lunch break and opened hood had a LED light and saw that there was a lil coolant on top of the bolt that holds the timing chain cover to the right of the water pump. Checked under car and there was some there also on the plastic cover. Called my mechanic i use and he said to bring it back in Friday. I paid $409 just to change the water pump on the 23rd. This is my second one since i bought the SUV new in 2004. Well see....:crazy:
 

goatfrom70

Original poster
Member
Oct 28, 2013
13
palitoiii said:
Thats the thing roadie my engine is pretty darn clean. Friends and people who know me make fun of me and say they can eat off the engine. Well except for this dag dexcool stuff. I checked today on my lunch break and opened hood had a LED light and saw that there was a lil coolant on top of the bolt that holds the timing chain cover to the right of the water pump. Checked under car and there was some there also on the plastic cover. Called my mechanic i use and he said to bring it back in Friday. I paid $409 just to change the water pump on the 23rd. This is my second one since i bought the SUV new in 2004. Well see....:crazy:

Sorry to hear that man. I still have the roaring noise after the new fan clutch and new water pump replacement, although no leaks, which is good. I also have a vibration in gear with the brake applied when the engine is cold. It goes away when I put in neutral or after it warms up.????? Always something right? Has a little sputter or a miss when its warm n i give it the lead foot too. Don't know what that may be. So I don't get on it much at all. Overall for the age and mileage, 165000 or so, it runs great!

Thanks. Spencer.
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
goatfrom70 said:
... I also have a vibration in gear with the brake applied when the engine is cold. It goes away when I put in neutral or after it warms up.????? ...
Absolutely classic and distinctive behavior of bad motor mounts. Search the site for discussions. Only use OEM replacements. They cost more than aftermarket, but the aftermarket ones do NOT cure the 10 Hz vibration.
 

palitoiii

Member
Dec 5, 2011
77
Hey roadie I checked again and I think it's my front timing chain cover leaking right next to the water pump. Here's a pic I just took. Took a rag dried it. Turned engine on for a minute then shut off wet right above bolt to the right of water pump. Could that coolant be going into oil there? I thought behind the timing chain cover ran oil. How much would it be in labor? Dag so pissed. Well here's image
yga2yre7.jpg
 

goatfrom70

Original poster
Member
Oct 28, 2013
13
the roadie said:
Absolutely classic and distinctive behavior of bad motor mounts. Search the site for discussions. Only use OEM replacements. They cost more than aftermarket, but the aftermarket ones do NOT cure the 10 Hz vibration.

Thanks roadie, Never thought of that. As far as replacing the mounts...I will have a trusted mechanic do this for me no doubt. Thanks again man.
 

goatfrom70

Original poster
Member
Oct 28, 2013
13
Roaring noise still there after 8 months. I don't drive it much though. I have another car that I drive everyday, just because of the gas mileage difference. I wonder if the shroud or the fan itself is cracked or damaged in someway? Is it a possibility that the fans on the t-blazers fatigue over time? I had taken it to a dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. They said that the vehicle was in excellent condition and solid. So I don't know where to go from here. Plan on taking it from PA to NC in August for the family vacation for the 4th or fifth time, and just want to make sure I am not driving a ticking time bomb. Thanks. Spencer.
 

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