VS ???? Help understanding

03luvvoy

Original poster
Member
Apr 26, 2012
51
What is if there even really is a difference between recon lights and HIDS? A guy at work has a set of recons in his headlights and fog lights and to me they look pretty sweet thinkin about gettin some and wanted to ask before I put money into them.. I don't have the DRL killer don't really understand how to do it and thinkin this way I wouldn't burn the HID's up...

Thanks in advance!
 

jimmyjam

Member
Nov 18, 2011
1,634
what are recon lights?

from what i can tell from google, recon is just a company that sells lights such as HIDs and for a lot more money than you can get them elsewhere
 

03luvvoy

Original poster
Member
Apr 26, 2012
51
My understanding is they plug into the factor plug nothing else needed
 

DARKASS04EXT

Member
Nov 21, 2011
193
Im pretty sure almost all HID kits CAN wire into the stock harness, ALTHOUGH many opt for the wiring harness for the added safety. Im pretty sure the harnesses are a thicker wire and they are fused at the battery also.
 

SBUBandit

Member
Dec 5, 2011
597
03luvvoy said:
My understanding is they plug into the factor plug nothing else needed

If they plug straight in, as in no extra wiring, no ballast, just the bulb, then they are just halogen lights with a coating on the glass, and are junk compared to HID.

If by plug into the factory harness you mean they do have a ballast and all that, but the ballast is powered by the factory harness, then that's the same as every HID kit I've ever seen. The reason alot of us use an extra wiring harness is A) Its only 10-15 bucks B) If somehow the wiring were to overheat, whether its a wiring problem, or anything, the truck's factory wiring isn't affected, you just unplug the harness or buy another one for 10 bucks again and go about your day. C) They draw full power direct from the battery. What more efficient route for power can you get.

As for the DRL, you still need to do something there. They truck doesn't care what brand is on the box or how they are hooked up, it is supplying 70% power to the headlight harness when the DRL are on. DRL killer or capacitor are pretty simple and take care of the issue. I myself have the DRL modifier from Jettt Auto Tech which gives me no DRL, no headlights with perimeter lighting, and Quad Beams.
 

03luvvoy

Original poster
Member
Apr 26, 2012
51
Alright thanks! I think I am going to just get the actual HID kits for my lows and fogs would 8000k be a "no go" or the lows? And what would you do for fogs?
 

mrphoenix80

Member
Jan 1, 2013
251
I run 8000k's in the highs and the lows and like them a lot. I have 55w a/c lows and 35w d/c highs. I am running stock fogs and I added 6" Hella's running the "blue" bulbs.

Now for differences the A/C HIDs don't flicker like the D/C ones do. I am not sure flicker is the right term. The arc moves inside the D/C bulb, so if you are behind a car at a stop light lets say, the headlight will bounce around on the back of the car in front. However I do not notice it any other time. The other thing with the D/C kits is the arc always travels the same direction in the bulb. After my first set failed I found the one end of the bulb was cracked from heat.

As for the stock bulbs in the fogs they look weak when compaired the to headlights. It is just a color thing because I still get great output from the stock fogs.
I am still thinking about 3000K HIDs for the fogs to get the yellow color.:undecided:

The cheap blue "HID look" bulbs I have in the Hella's, don't even come close to looking like HIDs. And when compaired to the light output again not even close.
View attachment 26744
BTW the pics is with the highs and lows on.
That is why a friend of mine said "What are them......Turn signals??:rotfl:". So now I have to upgrade them too.

If you decide to do HIDs the capacitor mod works well to correct for the reduced power in DRL mode and with perimeter lighting. With HID lows you will not need your highs much. However you may want to also do a 4 light setup. The warm up time is not obvious on start up but take my word for it when you switch up or down you WILL see it.
The first time I did was from HID lows to HID highs at 70mph, and it was like turning the lights off completely!!!!:eek:

Hope this helps.
 

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03luvvoy

Original poster
Member
Apr 26, 2012
51
That helps a lot I have been torn on what to get I was thinkin about leavin the highs alone but I'm not sure and I was debating between the yellow look and the bright look for the fogs... So would you do the 55w or 35w I'm not much of and electrical guy so that's why I ask lol :confused: but I thank you for all that info!:thumbsup:
 

BoldAdventure

Member
Jun 28, 2012
1,634
I'm running 55W, there is a huge difference in proper light output for the headlights over 35w units. And I run 35W's in the lower fogs, both at the same color temp. 5000K

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lightforward.jpg
 

SBUBandit

Member
Dec 5, 2011
597
03luvvoy said:
That helps a lot I have been torn on what to get I was thinkin about leavin the highs alone but I'm not sure and I was debating between the yellow look and the bright look for the fogs... So would you do the 55w or 35w I'm not much of and electrical guy so that's why I ask lol :confused: but I thank you for all that info!:thumbsup:

35W or 55W is your choice in the headlights. Personally I'm not a fan of the 55W unless you have projectors to aim them better. Just be sure to go with 35W in the fogs, 55W creates too much heat and will melt your fog lights.
 

03luvvoy

Original poster
Member
Apr 26, 2012
51
I I like TB! Looks mean and thank you for the info I have read something about the 55w getting to hot or something like that so I will go with the 35w not sure about yellow or not that any input?!
 

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