Video, Play in a front diff output bearings, ok? 2006 Trailblazer

[Shark Attack]

-2006 Trailblazer. Video says it all. L6 AT
-Front wheel bearing is tight and so is the 1/2 shaft axil.
-I get a flutter that increases with speed in the front end. people seem to agree it is from the passenger side.
-Unit is currently out of 4x4, transfer case and front locks are confirmed disengaged. Front drive shaft does not turn while under way nor while jacked up. Front wheels spin independantly of each other and the drive shaft never moves.
-Unit will not go into 4wd will not even try. No lamps even indicate what drive mode it is in. My selector switch shows no lighting other than the test at start up

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y-cqs15VRzs

 

[Shark Attack]

here is the wheel bearing from that side. It making noise. But its tight. I couldnt shake it at all with the wheel on however it seems a little noisy. Thoughts?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PTmKcSaaSxA

 

[kickass audio]

For your shaft tolerance, I cannot chime in on that. Never tried to wiggle mine to see if it has play like that or not. That bearing does not sound good at all. Sounds kinda dry for the fluid in it. Plus a good bearing will stop almost immediately after you let your hand off it when you spin it. They should be totally quiet and make no noise. That could be your issue. Ever have any problems where your ABS kicks in for a second at very low speeds? I have noticed that on my truck and my dads tahoe when the bearings were going bad that it would start to make the ABS kick on for a quick second and then go back to normal when you stop on dry pavement.

 

[AWD V8]

I'm a long time S10 guy new to the scene. So I'll give my generic experience.

My experience with S10 CV joint into front diff, is, the side with the axle disconnect is always looser than the other side. The CV stub doesn't have the extended support and it likely to show more wobble. And I doubt that it would cause any noise with only that much movement.

The wheel bearing, yes that does "seem" a little loose. Remember, when it's tightened up with the axle nut it could be tighter. You could place a large nut & bolt through it and tighten it up and see it that changes how loose it is.

It is "possible" that the bearing is making noise. Even if it isn't loose, it can still have a bad spot on the race that will make noise. Also, you could never generate enough force with your arms to equal what the weight of the vehicle could do. If a bearing is loose, it's for sure bad. If it's not loose, it could still be bad.

I've only ever used Moog or genuine Timkin bearings in my S10 repairs and NEVER had one go bad, even after a decade.

Is it possible to get a video of the noise? Does a vibration accompany the noise. Does the noise change with weight transfer, like swaying the truck side to side?

 

[IllogicTC]

That wheel bearing sounds like it's starting to go.

The no-lamps situation, have you looked into both a.) the switch itself and b.) the TCCM?

 

[Shark Attack]

the 4 wheel drive issues is in another thread. I agree the bearing sounds dry. No I have not had any ABS issue, but I do have a problem that comes and goes with TC where the TC will kick in for no reason and it feels like It is making the truck hesitate,

the flutter sound is very odd. The frequncy of the viberation feels like a drive shaft. But it is ceratinly in the front and certainly not a drive shaft. Becasue the drive shaft isnt moving.

I will replace the bearing. I hate to put it all back together and still have the issue.

 

[Shark Attack]

Is it possible to get a video of the noise? Does a vibration accompany the noise. Does the noise change with weight transfer, like swaying the truck side to side?

AWDV8 I dont think the flutter will come over good on recording it not loud and it is very low Hz.. You can feel it more than hear it. Its a very low viberation sound. It sounds like a wind flutter. Can it be felt? Yes, it can be felt in the floorboard on the passenger side and also felt in the streering
wheel.

 

[AWD V8]

Can it be felt? Yes, it can be felt in the floorboard on the passenger side and also felt in the streering
wheel.

I'd suspect a bad wheel bearing. When they are just in the beginning stages of going out it is often difficult to nail it down. You think it could be all kinds of things.

Seeing that you can feel the vibration I would think it would be a CV or axle, unless it's under torque. Vibration in the floor is often a giveaway that a bearing is bad.

I agree, you should replace that bearing and not put it back in at this point.

 

[Sparky]

My input...

1) the play on that disconnect looks normal. Just a little bit like that isn't surprising to me. Is that the whole disconnect or just the outer part? If you've opened the disconnect up how do all the parts look inside (grease etc)? Depending on miles it may be worth just going ahead and replacing the 3 bearings, the seals, and thrust washers while you have it all apart and put good fresh grease in there.

2) These sealed hub bearings generally won't have play when they start going bad, though they'll start making a racket. If they actually get wobbly then they are way past due to be changed out. That bearing does not sound healthy. What brand bearing is it, and how many years and miles are on it?

 

[IllogicTC]

Ever looked into the intermediate shaft? It spins full-time as long as the vehicle is moving, just another thought on possible noise source if it isn't the bearing. Inspection is difficult, as it's running through the oil pan of course.

 

[Shark Attack]

Have you guys ever dealt with Detroit Axil? Cheap Chinese crap? Their webstite says they are an old Chrysler plant and they manufacture everything there in detroit.

If so they have a combo kit with BOTH axils, BOTH bearings and ALL 4 ball joints. $180.00.

being the bearing alone locally is 125.00 or more, this *sounds* like a great deal. Also being I see my ball joint boots are split at the seams and water squirted out of them. I will need to do those if I want to do it right.

Last night looking for more issues I also noticed my outter axil CV feels funny.

Also after I see how the hub works and nothing in the front case beyond the axil is turning, It has to be the bearing or axil or both. So the heII with it, just going to do it all.


and thank you to everyone who gave input, this is really a great Forum. No one compares Penises here. No one calls you an a$$ or thinks your question is stupid. I really like this board. I hope I can contribute in the future. I will make a donation when I can. Times are tough. Just back to work and child suppport makes sure I stay at a poverty level net income.

But again. Thank you to everyone that has given input on my posts.


on the humor side.... Yesterday I crushed my thumb pulling the Axil out, ripped a nail off and punched myself in the face when the wrech slipped....

LOL It wouldnt be the same if no blood hit the garage floor at least once during the job. Right?

 

[Sparky]

I believe Hardtrailz uses Detroit Axle bearings and shafts. I haven't but given his success rate and the cost compared to the Timken bearings (CVs are about the same as the Cardone shafts I have I think) I may try them next time. I know nothing about their ball joints.

 

[IllogicTC]

That is a pretty great price. I've seen some people mention Detroit Axle around here before, generally they put them below Timken (which apparently has seen a fall in quality lately according to reports) and above the low-$ eBay specials.

They say they build their rack-and-pinion systems, and axles, in-house here in the States. They also state themselves as a distributor, which sounds like the other parts they source from elsewhere (not stating country of origin) and re-sell.

Here is a link to their stuff they offer for the 360/370 family.

Those prices are indeed nice, I paid a little over $100 for a single Moog tie rod end. Where do you see the CVs at on there? I see "ready-struts," balls, bearings, rack and pinion, and tie rod ends.

I'm personally interested in the Detroit bearings, too. They say "you get what you pay for," but some companies have spun that around on the consumer by charging high prices which makes for seemingly high quality (in some cases there is no direct link anymore!), when in reality there may be a competitor offering comparable quality for a more modest sum, and these definitely have a nice pricetag on them.

 

[Sparky]

Ball joints and tie rod ends are things that I have little desire to repeat, and Moog has yet to let me down in those areas, so I'd likely stick with them for that.

Hub bearings though are something that are relatively easy to do, and given I've had a Timken fail on me early (warranty so not a big deal, replacement and the other side have been perfectly fine) I'd be tempted to give Detroit Axle a try there given a decent track record they have with other members.

 

[Shark Attack]

My parts came in today. Ordered them on Monday. Pretty fast. Some things I see right off I like. The bearing has a metal seal not plastic and the ball joints are drilled and tapped for grease fittings.

I am just back to work So I did the job right but as cheap as possible, I only bought 1/2 the kit. total was 120.00 Shipped. I got the upper and lower balls, axle, bearing in the hub with the wheel sensor. And I was wrong, the kit from them on ebay is 220.00 not 180.00. There is a china guy on there at 180.00... Id rather give the money to DA.

Someone asked about the axle. Its not on the website. I mentioned this to the guy when I called and he said the website is a work in progress. But they do have them.

I'm hoping to get this stuff on the truck tonight.

Im about done with this thread. I WILL POST BACK TO IT IF THE PARTS GIVE ME PROBLEMS. If I don't post assume it all worked out.
The truck has 125,000 Miles. Ill post back when this bearing wears out in 2 years and see how far it goes.