Transmission Shift Linkage

Jason24

Active Member
Is the very end of the transmission shift linkage at the transmission end with the "snap ring" type connector replaceable or do you need to get the whole cable assembly?

Jason
 
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OP
J

Jason24

Active Member
the roadie said:
ATFSpeed.com has been reported to sell a useful repair kit. No personal knowledge of it.

ATF - Shifter Cable Repair Kits For Many Different Vehicles!
Thanks for the link. So far every place I had checked will only sell the complete cable and I didn't really want to go through replacing the whole thing if I could avoid it. I was able to find something close enough out of a pedal linkage kit from an auto parts store. It should hold up for a least a temp fix if nothing else. Shifting from under the car is no fun. :no:

If anyone has first had experience with the linked cable repair kit feel free to chime in. I may go-ahead and get one just to have something on hand if current one begins to fail.

Thanks again,
 

salvo2002

Active Member
Jason24 said:
If anyone has first had experience with the linked cable repair kit feel free to chime in. I may go-ahead and get one just to have something on hand if current one begins to fail.
I bought the kit and it works great. :thumbsup:
 

AV8ER

Well-Known Member
The little white "bushing" on mine crumpled to pieces so I ended up just putting the black piece with the big hole on the metal peg and wrapped it with a bunch of safety wire to keep it in place so i didn't have to spend 75 dollars on a cable and rip the car apart to replace it
 

salvo2002

Active Member
AV8ER said:
The little white "bushing" on mine crumpled to pieces so I ended up just putting the black piece with the big hole on the metal peg and wrapped it with a bunch of safety wire to keep it in place so i didn't have to spend 75 dollars on a cable and rip the car apart to replace it
Same thing happened to me. At first I used a nut and bolt while I waited for the repair pin to come in the mail....hence why you don't have to spend $75. They sell the the repair pin for $20. 92-09 Chevrolet Trailblazer Shifter Cable Repair Pin

View attachment 20883

It comes with instructions, but basically take off the bolt in the #1 red circle, then use a grinder to grind off the old pin and use a punch to get it out. Secure the arm back with the bolt and then use the replacement pin and your done.
 

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AV8ER

Well-Known Member
Well I will probably end up getting that. Im guessing that all it does is fit in the big hole of the black shift cable piece?
 

salvo2002

Active Member
AV8ER said:
Well I will probably end up getting that. Im guessing that all it does is fit in the big hole of the black shift cable piece?
Yes. The above picture shows the repair pin installed.
 

xj2202009

Well-Known Member
It happened to me on friday while been doubled park, blocking all handycapped parking spaces, three kids in the car and a 19' travel trailer hitched at a wendys during rush hour.

I had to do this on the fly because I needed the car next day for work, so this is what I did:

I grinded out the rest of the pin just like this thread says

bought the bolt below with a nylon nut, and a big washer,
cut the bolt just passed the nut,
Works like a champ.:wootwoot:
 

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salvo2002

Active Member
xj2202009 said:
Does the cable pivots around the pin or is it stiff in place?
I am assume your asking if it works like the OEM setup? It does. There is a little bit of play if you twist it in the opposite axis of the normal shifting rotation axis, but it's not any greater than OEM play.

xj2202009 said:
bought the bolt below with a nylon nut, and a big washer,
cut the bolt just passed the nut
I did the same exact thing and I agree it worked great. Therefore there is definitely no need to buy the kit...only reason I bought the kit was to see if it was better then my nut & bolt solution.
 

Wex

Well-Known Member
It looks like my shift linkage snapped in my driveway. I ordered the $20 part plus $11 shipping from aft speed. My question now is about the grinder. The video showed them using a bench mounted grinder. Is this the method used by all?

Thanks

edit: I left the part at my friends garage. they will do the grinding and the removal of the pin at a very very low cost. with how frequently the part fails, i am surprised the repair kit company does not simply supply the complete part ready to go with new nut for $45 out the door.
 

RPJ 03 Envoy X

Well-Known Member
This linkage can break in different ways. I know you guys are talking about the common fix. I had the plastic piece break and instead of having a big hole or O, I had a C at the end. I had to use wire to complete the C and help my truck shif. My temp repair has worked for over a year, but I do not expect it to last forever. So if anyone has the end plastic piece break, you will need to buy the $75-$80 replacement.
 

navigator

Well-Known Member
Wex said:
...... i am surprised the repair kit company does not simply supply the complete part ready to go with new nut for $45 out the door.
they supply the complete kit. The problem is you have to remove the old OEM pin in order to use the new pin. The only way to do that is to grind off the head.

BTW, my kit came with 2 pins. One would have fit really tight or would have needed some grinding. The other pin fit perfect.

You can also just buy an aftermarket bushing itself from ebay. I saw the listing on the OS but could not find the actual part.
Evidently you can email the maker "ieshouston(at)yahoo.com" to get it for under $10.
 

Wex

Well-Known Member
My kit came in the mail yesterday afternoon and I put in on this morning. Took about 5-10 minutes. Mine came with two metal pins also. I used the one that fit and tossed the extra back in its bag. Maybe the earlier or later model years used the extra pin instead I do not know. I will keep it just in case another GM cable breaks around me and maybe it will work.

By the complete part I meant I wish they had offered the part for a few bucks more that I do not have to ground. also, was a decently built pin but the shipping was a bit high. They charged 12 shipping and the package was marked $5.

Here is a pic of the broken piece and the replacement pin I had left over.
 

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TheMotrCty

New Member
The ATF Shift Pin worked like a charm. Regardless of what it says, it takes longer that 15 minutes and you need a grinder (not a "simple too"; I used a Dremel) for the install. Remove the linkage tong from the tranny (15MM nut, no washer), grind off the round head of the OEM pin, punch it out then crawl back under the car. I found it easier to connect the cable to the ATF pin BEFORE reinstalling the linkage tong. Once under the car, took about 8 minutes. Sweetheart says it even shifts easier. I dunno.... doubt it, but she's happy.

Ronnie
 

exxplorer3

New Member
I just did a "transmission shift 2002 trailblazer" search on Ebay and found a seller on there selling the bushing for $10.00 and free shipping! :wootwoot::wootwoot::wootwoot: Plus, this can be put on in 5 minutes and needs no grinding or anything major done! I ordered it today and will try and remember to repost once I get the part and install it, to make sure it works as advertised.
 

exxplorer3

New Member
I just got it a couple of days ago, arrived in the mail and was in new condition, installed it and fits perfectly and has been shifting fine for a couple of days now, (including the testing I gave it B4 I hit the road)! also installed this in under 5 minutes!!
 

TangoBravo

Well-Known Member
Awesome, I recently replaced mine because it failed and left my wife and kids in a bind. I used the pin, because it will never fail again.
 

Gevans17

Well-Known Member
Jason24 said:
Is the very end of the transmission shift linkage at the transmission end with the "snap ring" type connector replaceable or do you need to get the whole cable assembly?

Jason
Wow. Same thing just happened to me. Great to know that a 5 cent lastic bushing is all that holds the transmission linkage together! Frick you gm. Never again
 

Gevans17

Well-Known Member
Wex said:
It looks like my shift linkage snapped in my driveway. I ordered the $20 part plus $11 shipping from aft speed. My question now is about the grinder. The video showed them using a bench mounted grinder. Is this the method used by all?

Thanks

edit: I left the part at my friends garage. they will do the grinding and the removal of the pin at a very very low cost. with how frequently the part fails, i am surprised the repair kit company does not simply supply the complete part ready to go with new nut for $45 out the door.
You can drive the pin back out thru the lever arm with several good whacks from a hammer. Don't have to cut/ grind it off.
 

joee

Member
Replacing the pin is probably the best long term solution. But, I took the easy way out and bought the $10 bushing on ebay. I replaced it in May 2012. After replacing it, I was going to wait a few months to post an update, but I forgot. The "lip" on my bushing had broken, as shown in the attached picture. The new one seemed to be more pliable than the original one, so I wasn't sure if it would hold up. It's been over a year and it's still working, though.
 

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Gevans17

Well-Known Member
joee said:
Replacing the pin is probably the best long term solution. But, I took the easy way out and bought the $10 bushing on ebay. I replaced it in May 2012. After replacing it, I was going to wait a few months to post an update, but I forgot. The "lip" on my bushing had broken, as shown in the attached picture. The new one seemed to be more pliable than the original one, so I wasn't sure if it would hold up. It's been over a year and it's still working, though.
I don't want to risk it again with a piece of plastic between me and the transmission. Where and when will it fail next time? With any luck, you won't be downshifting while coming down a mountain
 

dannyoaks

Well-Known Member
Might i ask the specifications as to what size and thread the bolt and nut method use? My cable bushing just gave up this morning, and of course it being a 2006 envoy, the help aisle was no help at all. Thanks for any info
 

Gevans17

Well-Known Member
dannyoaks said:
Might i ask the specifications as to what size and thread the bolt and nut method use? My cable bushing just gave up this morning, and of course it being a 2006 envoy, the help aisle was no help at all. Thanks for any info
If you go this route, you need a bolt with a very short head. There is very little clearance. The head of the bolt will hit the plastic switch housing and you may not be able to select first gear "1", as it will not clear. order the aftermarket pin. Works fine
 

dannyoaks

Well-Known Member
Gevans17 said:
If you go this route, you need a bolt with a very short head. There is very little clearance. The head of the bolt will hit the plastic switch housing and you may not be able to select first gear "1", as it will not clear. order the aftermarket pin. Works fine
Thanks for the heads up. Unfortunately my cable broke at the rear mount before i got any solution, i have already replaced the entire cable, and according to the dealership i got the last one in the area. When i called the parts department the tech had told me i was about the 15th person who called for the same part, it seems odd to me that so many are failing at basically the same time.
 

triz

Well-Known Member
FML just had this happen to me at the Post Office. Had to jack up the truck using the forever bottle jack. I had to rig it to get it home. 2 zip ties to keep it from coming off. I bought some universal bushings but none worked. So most likely getting the pin since I was like plastic near a hot transmission can last long. Mileage at time event 126000 miles.
 

C-ya

Well-Known Member
Just had my bushing disintegrate last week. But, thanks to this post, I knew what to do! Luckily it failed while I was in Drive and I could pull straight through the parking spot and head back home. I parked it at home, set the parking brake and shut 'er down. Looked underneath and sure enough, there's my shift cable flopping around. Pushed the lever into Park and went on a 3 day trip in the car. Got back, pulled the lever off, ground the back of the pin off and put a bolt, some o-rings, a washer and two nuts on it. Working like a champ now, but I am going to get the pin from ATF Speed.
 

jimmyjam

Well-Known Member
Fixed mine today. used 1/4" machine screw, 1" long. ground down and punched out the pin. put a washer on either side of the plastic shift linkage, and put the half-eaten bushing on the screw where it contacts the linkage so it isn't riding on the threads. then use a nylon stop washer, tighten it down, then let it out a little so there is enough slack so it doesn't bind.

considered shelling out for the fancy pin but why bother, a screw works just fine.
 

swaffdn

Member
I also bought this little bushing from the guy on ebay. Wonder where he gets all these things, goes and pulls them off at junk yards? Anyway, that was about a year and half ago. Still working fine, it wasnt as "tight" as I thought it should be, so i also wrapped a litte wire around it. Took 10min max.



exxplorer3 said:
linkage bushing.jpg The ten bucks for this includes shipping too.
 

Robmoo

Active Member
I know that this tread is 4 years inactive, but I had the same problem today. Thankfully the vehicle was in park in the driveway and it was my not the wife. I bought the kit Doorman 14057 and it didn't fit. So I bought the Doorman 14055 kit and it fit, but it doesn't take much force to pop it off.

Thank you all! I know what I'm going to be doing Saturday. I'll be taking it apart and replacing it with a bolt.

Shame on GMC! First I was locked out of my car because the bushing on the only door with a keyed lock failed and know this lousy bushing costs me 2+ hours during the work week. GM saved $2 and cost me over 2 hours of my life.
 

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