Transmission Issue

Menthol

Original poster
Member
Dec 8, 2011
177
This looks like a start to a bad year. On Dec 27th while reversing to go to work I felt the reverse was a bit tight, I thought because it was down for a week the brakes were tight, I had to rev very high to reverse out. When I reached work I found that it would not reverse at all, it was if something was chocked against the wheel. When I start to to go home the had to rev the engine very high to go forward now, it would crawl and build momentum. At home, tried reverse, no go. Next day I tried to go forward, no go. I left it parked. Battery discharge and damaged acuator (another thread)
Today I started it up and found I can shift thru from park to 1st but no vehicle movement
Park = Park
Reverse = When accelerate, feels like if wheels are chocked but wants to move.
Neutral = Want to move foward but feels liked if wheel are chocked.
3, 2, 1 = Same as Neutral.
Took rear wheels off one at a time (-12 deg Cel). In Neutral it spins slowly and then kind of stop. Cannot stop it by hand.
Vehicle was bought at 100K Kilometer, like 5 years ago. Change all differential and TC/transmission fluids 1.5yrs ago at 160k kilometer.

Is this the famous sun shell problem?
Thanks.
 

dfc739

Member
Jul 29, 2012
170
Des Moines, IA
Menthol said:
This looks like a start to a bad year. On Dec 27th while reversing to go to work I felt the reverse was a bit tight, I thought because it was down for a week the brakes were tight, I had to rev very high to reverse out. When I reached work I found that it would not reverse at all, it was if something was chocked against the wheel. When I start to to go home the had to rev the engine very high to go forward now, it would crawl and build momentum. At home, tried reverse, no go. Next day I tried to go forward, no go. I left it parked. Battery discharge and damaged acuator (another thread)
Today I started it up and found I can shift thru from park to 1st but no vehicle movement
Park = Park
Reverse = When accelerate, feels like if wheels are chocked but wants to move.
Neutral = Want to move foward but feels liked if wheel are chocked.
3, 2, 1 = Same as Neutral.
Took rear wheels off one at a time (-12 deg Cel). In Neutral it spins slowly and then kind of stop. Cannot stop it by hand.
Vehicle was bought at 100K Kilometer, like 5 years ago. Change all differential and TC/transmission fluids 1.5yrs ago at 160k kilometer.

Is this the famous sun shell problem?
Thanks.

No, this isn't indicative of a broken sunshell. When the sunshell breaks you lose 2nd and 4th gears because that's when the band is applied. Are you leaving it in 4Hi or 4Lo? The driveline might be binding. Read Roadie's post here: http://gmtnation.com/f79/unexplained-4x4-binding-417/.

I know you said you changed the differential fluid 1.5 years ago, but did you take off the cover and inspect for any damage? Do you remember how bad the fluid was that came out? And have you checked both the differentials and transfer case to make sure they have plenty of fluid? Sorry, I know how it is working in the cold. I had a power steering line come apart on an old Cutlass and had to climb under it when the daytime high was about 0 deg F (-17 deg C).

You mentioned that in Neutral, 3, 2, and 1 it wants to move forward. What does "Drive" do? If your wheels are spinning in neutral to the point you can't stop them with your hand, something is wrong with either the shift linkage or one of the valves in the transmission.
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
I've tested driveline binding many times, and I've never had it feel like the wheels are chocked except at full steering lock (left or right) in 4LO. If the 4WD system shows it to be in 2HI without any flashing lights, I'd trust the indicators. And start looking for change in the sofa cushions to fix the tranny, whatever has failed other than the sunshell. Unless, as said, it's in the differential.
 

Menthol

Original poster
Member
Dec 8, 2011
177
Bought new sofa set before Christmas, may have to check heating vents to see if any change down there lol.

dfc, all selections wants to move in direction selected but would not move. I put in the amount stated in the manual, I did take off the cover, It had a rubber seal on it and everything look shiny and clean no metal. It was stink though. Tomorrow I will put back the wheels and try see if I can roll the vehicle in neutral, if I can, have a transmission problem, if I can't I have a driveline problem, is this asumption correct?

I started the engine today to keep the battery charged and when I rev the engine I felt it bog down as if the cat is blocked. Last year my thermostat was shot and not sure how long it was bad because i was using the vehicle like once week. I changed it in the spring.
I don't think this is related though..........can a bad cat prevent a vehicle from moving completely? why would it wants to move in neutral? I think I have multiple issue.
I will accept any help at this point ................monetary too lol.
 

dfc739

Member
Jul 29, 2012
170
Des Moines, IA
Menthol said:
Bought new sofa set before Christmas, may have to check heating vents to see if any change down there lol.

dfc, all selections wants to move in direction selected but would not move. I put in the amount stated in the manual, I did take off the cover, It had a rubber seal on it and everything look shiny and clean no metal. It was stink though. Tomorrow I will put back the wheels and try see if I can roll the vehicle in neutral, if I can, have a transmission problem, if I can't I have a driveline problem, is this asumption correct?

No, not necessarily. You need to remove both drive shafts. Then if you can roll it you have either a transmission or transfer case issue. WARNING: Only do this on level ground: without the driveshafts putting it in "Park" will not hold anything so it will roll. At bare minimum, you are having an issue with sticky valves or debris in the transmission. How long has it been since you checked the tranny fluid level? It shouldn't apply power to the wheels when in neutral. How do you feel about removing the valve body? I did a writeup on here about it at http://gmtnation.com/f93/how-remove-4l60e-valve-body-replace-plastic-accumulator-pistons-4972/

Edit: this would be a great time to check solenoids.

Menthol said:
I started the engine today to keep the battery charged and when I rev the engine I felt it bog down as if the cat is blocked. Last year my thermostat was shot and not sure how long it was bad because i was using the vehicle like once week. I changed it in the spring.
I don't think this is related though..........can a bad cat prevent a vehicle from moving completely? why would it wants to move in neutral? I think I have multiple issue.
I will accept any help at this point ................monetary too lol.

That cat being clogged shouldn't keep it from moving. If the cat were that clogged, it would kill the engine. A clogged cat is more likely to be felt when accelerating or any time RPMs go higher.
 

BRomanJr

Member
Dec 9, 2011
371
Menthol said:
Bought new sofa set before Christmas, may have to check heating vents to see if any change down there lol.

dfc, all selections wants to move in direction selected but would not move. I put in the amount stated in the manual, I did take off the cover, It had a rubber seal on it and everything look shiny and clean no metal. It was stink though. Tomorrow I will put back the wheels and try see if I can roll the vehicle in neutral, if I can, have a transmission problem, if I can't I have a driveline problem, is this asumption correct?

I started the engine today to keep the battery charged and when I rev the engine I felt it bog down as if the cat is blocked. Last year my thermostat was shot and not sure how long it was bad because i was using the vehicle like once week. I changed it in the spring.
I don't think this is related though..........can a bad cat prevent a vehicle from moving completely? why would it wants to move in neutral? I think I have multiple issue.
I will accept any help at this point ................monetary too lol.

Revving in neutral is limited to 4k or less by the ECM, so it might feel like a clogged cat.
 

Menthol

Original poster
Member
Dec 8, 2011
177
dfc, nice write up but I don't think I can venture into the inner parts of the tranny. I did drop the pan and changed out the fluid and filter about a year and half back and installed a drain plug to refresh periodically. Haven't done anything since last post, too cold here. I think I'll just have it towed to a shop to get it looked at. I would have love to try to solve it myself but not at this time of the year. Will keep you updated. Thanks all for the help.
 

Menthol

Original poster
Member
Dec 8, 2011
177
Menthol said:
dfc, nice write up but I don't think I can venture into the inner parts of the tranny. I did drop the pan and changed out the fluid and filter about a year and half back and installed a drain plug to refresh periodically. Haven't done anything since last post, too cold here. I think I'll just have it towed to a shop to get it looked at. I would have love to try to solve it myself but not at this time of the year. Will keep you updated. Thanks all for the help.

Ok this is what I found out from this post with the same problem. Neutral=Drive when selected
http://gmtnation.com/f79/transmission-issue-wrong-modes-3252/
sickcowboy "seems the clutch discs were fried, and clogged the valve body. had trans rebuilt for $900 and working good. clutches fried due to small pin hole leak in lines"
Seems I will be paying for a rebuild.
 

Menthol

Original poster
Member
Dec 8, 2011
177
Update. Well, Had the transmission rebuilt and cooling lines changed, total $1950.00 CAD, taxes in. (Lets say $ 2000.00 US lol, :tongue:)
Guy said the clutches were burned and sunshell was damaged. Truck feels it's on Red Bull x2.
Thanks all for the help amd suggestions.
 

dfc739

Member
Jul 29, 2012
170
Des Moines, IA
Menthol said:
Update. Well, Had the transmission rebuilt and cooling lines changed, total $1950.00 CAD, taxes in. (Lets say $ 2000.00 US lol, :tongue:)
Guy said the clutches were burned and sunshell was damaged. Truck feels it's on Red Bull x2.
Thanks all for the help amd suggestions.

Holy cow, $2000? I hope they plated everything with platinum with inlaid diamonds. You can usually get a rebuilt 4l60e down here (Kansas/Missouri) for ~$800 plus a couple hundred more for the install. It's good to hear you're back up and running. Did he say what caused it? Or had you felt any slipping previous to this problem?
 

Menthol

Original poster
Member
Dec 8, 2011
177
Yes, I had felt some slipping going in second occassionally. That's the way things are here. We can order from Rockauto (US) pay shipping, duty and taxes and still come out cheaper than if we buy here in store.
 
Dec 4, 2011
520
Menthol said:
Yes, I had felt some slipping going in second occassionally. That's the way things are here. We can order from Rockauto (US) pay shipping, duty and taxes and still come out cheaper than if we buy here in store.

Yep you gotta love how SPECIAL we have it up here, never was sure why crossing the 49th parallel made such a price difference. :confused: :frown: I guess it is just because they can.
 

CaptainXL

Member
Dec 4, 2011
2,445
dfc739 said:
Holy cow, $2000?

Wouldn't new lines, all new internal parts including sun shell and torque converter bring it up to $2000?

They may have replaced output shaft seals and such on the transfer case as well.

And to the OP. You might want to bring it back within 500 miles or so to have the fliter and fluid changed. Especially if the trans shop has that in fine print at the bottom to make warranty stick.
 

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