This is my first post since moving from that other site. I do a lot of ice fishing. I have notice that I have been getting stuck when the temps are 32deg F and up. My tires will just spin in the snow. I don’t want to go to a winter tire and have to store them in the summer. Has anyone used tire chains on the lake? Pros Cons? Thanks.
Tire Chains
- Thread starter Machoman
- Start date
Playsinsnow
Member
- Nov 17, 2012
- 9,727
Machoman said:
Greetings from the east metro!
No never on a lake. Only when the authorities have said I need them or can't pass.
25mph TOP SPEED with chains. 10-15mph is more like it. Get better tires?
Checkout Tirechains.com
I bought one of the cheapest available. More to pass a checkpoint during a chain law in effect. I used them twice. Once to try em out.
Got a set shipped for less than $40. 7 years ago though.
I'm pretty sure the Owner's Manual says NO NO NO to chains. There is insufficient room between the edge of the tire and the upper ball joint to fit most chains except for the thin cable chains. Those might be enough to get around on a flat lake, but you need to go look at your ball joint clearance to tell for sure.
Where you live, proper winter tires shouldn't be an option. What about your safety and the other folks on the road when you're out on unplowed roads with summer tires?
Welcome! We're the folks who made Trailvoy what it was, until new ownership destroyed the site with their ads and general neglect. So we started this site and 100% of the colunteer staff all moved one night. Took them DAYS to notice, even.
Where you live, proper winter tires shouldn't be an option. What about your safety and the other folks on the road when you're out on unplowed roads with summer tires?
Welcome! We're the folks who made Trailvoy what it was, until new ownership destroyed the site with their ads and general neglect. So we started this site and 100% of the colunteer staff all moved one night. Took them DAYS to notice, even.
Playsinsnow
Member
- Nov 17, 2012
- 9,727
The_Roadie said:
Sir, chains should only go on drive tires, or the rear if AWD or 4WD. Unless specified otherwise by the manufacturer or with fitment tested with modifcations on all four. Chains fit fine on the tb with stock wheels in the rear.
I saw many vehicles chaining up on 395, 203, and 120 out your way that did so incorrectly
I do have the cable style chains fwiw. Cheaper
Saves the citation fee from CHP in chain control areas.Edit: Also it is helpful to install the chains once before actually needing them so you ensure you installed them properly and don't tear your fender off!
IllogicTC
Member
- Dec 30, 2013
- 3,452
gmcman said:
Winter tires are a smarter move
With say 8 months on the summers and 4 on the winters, one set of tires is receiving 2/3 of the year's wear and the other 1/3 which drags out the replacement times on both sets a bit. And there's absolutely no worry about installing and removing chains. If you wake up and it's all snowy out, just drive. If the snow magically melts away while you're at work, no worries taking chains back off.
It's an investment for sure, but one I would say is a pretty safe investment. In addition if you switch vehicles and get something that doesn't fit the Blizzaks, if they've got considerable tread left you can make back a bit of your investment.
PProph
Member
- Dec 7, 2011
- 220
first thing i did when i bought my tb was put winter tires on that winter. it was my first experience with winter tires and i won't go back. people talk about driving for conditions and how they have 4wd and etc etc. the thing about 4wd is it doesn't really help you stop on ice. but winter tires do. driving for the conditions helps and is just common sense, but simply put if you can do something to your vehicle that increases its safety, why wouldn't you? Also if you're changing tires twice a year you can rotate at those intervals without really needing the reminder. and as pointed out already it doesn't really cost more (except the second set of rims if you go that route) because you are spreading your tire wear over two sets of tires.
the guy i bought my tires from told me that for years he went out ice fishing in his truck with his big knobby tires on. finally he switched to winter tires and couldn't believe the improvement out on the ice.
long story short, yeah storing them is a pita but i heavily recommend winter tires.
and sorry i have no experience with chains, but that appears to have been covered.
** i will add that if you do have winter tires it's terribly important that you change them off once it gets warm out. I'll be getting mine swapped tomorrow before the rush hits here. The rubber in winter tires is designed for cold weather and is softer when warm resulting in significantly shorter lifespan (hard road eats soft rubber).
the guy i bought my tires from told me that for years he went out ice fishing in his truck with his big knobby tires on. finally he switched to winter tires and couldn't believe the improvement out on the ice.
long story short, yeah storing them is a pita but i heavily recommend winter tires.
and sorry i have no experience with chains, but that appears to have been covered.
** i will add that if you do have winter tires it's terribly important that you change them off once it gets warm out. I'll be getting mine swapped tomorrow before the rush hits here. The rubber in winter tires is designed for cold weather and is softer when warm resulting in significantly shorter lifespan (hard road eats soft rubber).
Envoy_04
Member
- Jul 1, 2013
- 749
I'm going to agree with others and say get some cheap steel wheels and keep some good winter tires on them for winter driving. In very snowy areas, it is WELL worth the little extra hassle.
On the note of chains, I would only run them on the rear though as has been mentioned on a TB or Envoy. But Plays, I'm going to have to disagree with you, my traditional methods as a person who has had to run chains in both ice and mud (in addition to good off-road tires) is to chain the front.
On a 4 wheel drive truck, given only one set of chains, I have always chained the front for a few reasons.
1) They're going to do just as much good on the front because if it's bad enough to need chains, you're going to be in 4 wheel drive anyhow.
2) In bad conditions, chains on the rear will work great but cause the front to snowplow because of the difference in traction. Chains on the front cure this.
3) In a truck, the traction is better in the front end due to the weight of the motor, chains help that much more
4) The front end is gonna go wherever you point it! (this is a reiteration of #2) On many of the trails I have had to deal with, you've got a steep hill on one side, and a very long drop on the other, and little room for error. In these conditions, you DO NOT want the front end to be snowplowing on you, hence chains on front.
On the note of chains, I would only run them on the rear though as has been mentioned on a TB or Envoy. But Plays, I'm going to have to disagree with you, my traditional methods as a person who has had to run chains in both ice and mud (in addition to good off-road tires) is to chain the front.
On a 4 wheel drive truck, given only one set of chains, I have always chained the front for a few reasons.
1) They're going to do just as much good on the front because if it's bad enough to need chains, you're going to be in 4 wheel drive anyhow.
2) In bad conditions, chains on the rear will work great but cause the front to snowplow because of the difference in traction. Chains on the front cure this.
3) In a truck, the traction is better in the front end due to the weight of the motor, chains help that much more
4) The front end is gonna go wherever you point it! (this is a reiteration of #2) On many of the trails I have had to deal with, you've got a steep hill on one side, and a very long drop on the other, and little room for error. In these conditions, you DO NOT want the front end to be snowplowing on you, hence chains on front.
