Hoping I can receive some helpful input. This is my first time on a forum
Oh, welcome! You've found the right place. Glad you didn't wait around on trailvoy for an answer.
I own a 2002 TB with 206k (still running strong)
Just to make sure, are you current on all the normal maintenance every 100K, such as all fluids, plugs, and probably an O2 sensor if it's never been changed? Transfer case fluid changed every 50K? It's critical in these vehicles.
2 days ago I had my control arm bushings replaced.
Upper or lower? What made it necessary? Did the mechanic change the entire control arm or just press in new bushings? Any issues with tie rod ends or anti-sway bar end links, or ball joints?
When I picked up my vehicle after hours my steering wheel was tremendously cockeyed, I'm talking the right side of the wheel was at approx in the 1:00 position.
And the mechanic left it for you in that condition?
The steering also felt a little on the sloppy side along with tightness when I turned to the right.
Unacceptable. Did they align it or recommend an alignment? Can you specify exactly what he worked on?
This morning I was backing out of my spot (about 90° turn) and I heard a loud bang.
Got out, everything appeared normal and started on my way when I noticed my steering wheel was suddenly straight again. I zig zagged down the road a little ways and she was very responsive. I called the garage and he says something may have just fallen back into place.... does that sound normal???
No. NOT AT ALL NORMAL. The mechanic is hurried, lying, or incompetent. Or some combination of the three. What's your history with them? Do they know trailblazers? Until you find someone to look into it deeper, it's a DANGEROUS situation to be driving it. NOTHING should be loose, bang into position, or change its location after repair work. There is NOTHING to fall back into place. Either there's missing mounting bolts of some suspension component, or something was jamming the components like a tool left behind, and that's also unacceptable. A competent and honest mechanic would have INSISTED that you bring it right back for a good inspection instead of making up a lie like that. If you go back to them, bring an experienced person to observe and discuss his claims of "something falling into place." Whatever is was, it may fall OUT OF PLACE, which would have a bad outcome if it happened at higher speed.
My other minor but extremely annoying issue is my passenger window. At first the entire door wasn't working. Changed the door switch
What did you replace it with? A used one?
which took care of the lock and mirror, but the window still won't work.
You can move the passenger's side switch unit (called a PDM) to the driver's side (DDM) and it should operate the window. If it doesn't, then you still have a problem with the regulator or power. If the PDM runs the driver's side regulator, then it's your new DDM that's at fault. Do you have a voltmeter and want to get into some electrical troubleshooting? Does the rear driver's window work OK?
Changed the regulator twice (thinking the first was a defective) checked the power to the door, all fuses are okay.
One of the elements is a circuit breaker, not a fuse. You need a meter to inspect a circuit breaker, since it's opaque. Did you do that?
My dome light does not work properly and the power to the vehicle shuts down as soon as I turn my key off.
That's a separate problem with the door-open sensor switch near the latch. You'll have to remove the inner door panel and get in there with some WD40 to lube it up and work on the traditional corrosion
Any suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated!!!!
That's why we volunteers hang out here! Thanks for asking interesting questions!