Specialty tools/gauges

[Midnyteryder196]

Hey guys, I was just wondering what kinda of specialty tools and or gauges the average shade tree mechanic would need.. I have just basic standard tools right now. after reading countless threads on here about checking spark, vacuum, compression, and fuel pressure i been looking on ebay for most of these as i would like to have them on hand just to be prepared.. as i was searching ebay I found this fuel guage New Fuel Injection Pump Injector Tester Test Pressure Gauge Gasoline Cars Trucks | eBay but it says not for gm throttle body.. my question is why wont this work on our trucks?

 

[MAY03LT]

They're talking about the older tbi systems that don't have an inline test port. You gotta get a bunch o' adapters for those. That one should have the standard size gm/chrylser fitting.

 

[IllogicTC]

It'd be worth getting a scan tool. A decent one. A lot of people here use the Torque app, they purchase the little bluetooth dongle thing and put Torque on their Android phone, but of course this requires having a smartphone (I don't have one lol).

I recently got a $100 one at Advance, it doesn't give me information overload, but it reads confirmed and pending codes, provides a name for the code if it knows it (and if not, look it up here!), and provides some basic live data like MAP mmHg reading, intake air temp, fuel trims, ignition advance, and throttle position few other things. It doesn't do voltage and whatnot, others have devices that do, I'd imagine you'd be looking in the $150-200 range to start getting into that. But it works. Or you could get a basic $30-40 dollar one that just reads codes.

O2 sensor socket - worth having on hand just in case, can be used on a lot more than just your GMT, and is only like $8-10.

35mm deep-well socket - this is used to get the axle nut off on the front, if you wanna get into fixing your own disconnect, replacing hub assemblies and CV joints, etc.

Torque wrench. This is fairly important on a bunch of parts on this platform. It's trivial to find the proper torque spec on this site or in a Haynes manual, but you need the wrench to be able to do it. Get a 1/2" one for the heavy-hitter, 100+ lb settings, and a 1/4" for the inch-pounders. A 3/8" may not be necessary if the 1/4" and 1/2" ranges overlap. Get a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter at Wal-Mart to use your 3/8" drive tools, I got one that comes packaged with a 1/2" universal joint also for like $6. Torque wrenches can be a little pricey, if you wanna cheap out and go the Harbor Freight route it's a viable option.

6" C-Clamp, OR Piston Retractor tool. You can find the piston retractor tool in the brakes aisle at Harbor Freight. Looks like a piece of metal, either rectangular or curved kinda like a brake pad, with a threaded rod running through it. A 6" C-Clamp can be used as a substitute. This is to back the brake pistons into their sleeves when doing your brakes.

Retrieval kit. Dirt cheap at Wal-Mart where I got mine, came with a telescoping magnet, telescoping inspection mirror (can be used to inspect hard-to-reach parts of the vehicle, not just for tool retrieval) and a little clamp deal. Helps a lot, I used the magnet tool to extract spark plugs after they were loosened from their holes rather than try reaching my hand down into the coil well.

I'll think of more later

 

[IllogicTC]

Also, don't bother buying the "J-xxxx" tools listed in the shop manuals unless you absolutely have to. Wayyy overpriced, a piece of cylindrical metal that screws on where the oil filter goes to provide an adapter for a pressure gauge costs over $100 - and that's not including the tube and the gauge.

Speaking of the shop manuals, if you haven't downloaded them already do it. They're in a sticky thread in Technical Discussion, WELLLLL worth the time.

Breaker bar! 1/2" drive I believe. Used to hold the tensioner pulley back while removing the serpentine belt.

 

[Midnyteryder196]

It'd be worth getting a scan tool. A decent one. A lot of people here use the Torque app, they purchase the little bluetooth dongle thing and put Torque on their Android phone, but of course this requires having a smartphone (I don't have one lol).

O2 sensor socket - worth having on hand just in case, can be used on a lot more than just your GMT, and is only like $8-10.

35mm deep-well socket - this is used to get the axle nut off on the front, if you wanna get into fixing your own disconnect, replacing hub assemblies and CV joints, etc.

Torque wrench. This is fairly important on a bunch of parts on this platform. It's trivial to find the proper torque spec on this site or in a Haynes manual, but you need the wrench to be able to do it. Get a 1/2" one for the heavy-hitter, 100+ lb settings, and a 1/4" for the inch-pounders. A 3/8" may not be necessary if the 1/4" and 1/2" ranges overlap. Get a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter at Wal-Mart to use your 3/8" drive tools, I got one that comes packaged with a 1/2" universal joint also for like $6. Torque wrenches can be a little pricey, if you wanna cheap out and go the Harbor Freight route it's a viable option.

6" C-Clamp, OR Piston Retractor tool. You can find the piston retractor tool in the brakes aisle at Harbor Freight. Looks like a piece of metal, either rectangular or curved kinda like a brake pad, with a threaded rod running through it. A 6" C-Clamp can be used as a substitute. This is to back the brake pistons into their sleeves when doing your brakes.

Retrieval kit. Dirt cheap at Wal-Mart where I got mine, came with a telescoping magnet, telescoping inspection mirror (can be used to inspect hard-to-reach parts of the vehicle, not just for tool retrieval) and a little clamp deal. Helps a lot, I used the magnet tool to extract spark plugs after they were loosened from their holes rather than try reaching my hand down into the coil well.

I'll think of more later

I got the torque app and is just amazing! lol I forgot I do have a set of torque wrenches, 1/2" and 3/8" matco brand - forgot i borrowed from my father and never returned them

I will deff look into the c clamp and retreival kit though!



Also May03LT thanks, i thought that it would work but wasnt sure.. I was also looking at getting the spark tester you showed in your youtube vids.

 

[IllogicTC]

If you've got about 5 grand just heaped up in the corner used for jumping-in-and-feeling-rich purposes, you could always get a Tech II like May03LT shows in his videos too

Oh, can always buy a smaller clamp or just use a coat hanger or something, to hang the caliper out of the way when doing a brake job, too. I'm sure it's obvious not to just let it hang by the hose when you've got it removed.

I'm not sure how useful it would be, but I've been pondering what's called a spudger tool for some jobs, too. While some clips you just pull and hope, or try using a screwdriver to help along, I've been wondering if using a plastic tool rather than a metal one might help prevent breaking clips, or could make getting some clips out easier. Usually they're used in opening up electronics and pulling wires, could also have a use when messing with electronics on the GMT, too. I was thinking the kind with a flat end on one side, usually has a metal hook or maybe just a "point" on the other side. I'd wait to buy if you're watching cash flow until I can find some confirmation among other members. Anyone ever tried this on the GMT platform?

 

[blazinlow89]

I have used this kit to aid in removal of more than just panels. Worth every penny.

Astro Pneumatic 4524 Auto Fastener and Molding Removal Tool Set, 11-Piece:Amazon:Home Improvement

You also forgot one of the most important tools in our arsenal. A digital multimeter, or DMM for short. Runs anywhere from $5-$500. I have been using a $20 INNOVA one for years.

 

[TollKeeper]

Only 2 things I would add to this.

Craftsman 50 piece screwdriver set. Every Possible length, Torx, flat, X, and others. And a peg board of outlined screwdrivers for placement, so you know when you have miss placed one, or when your kid/wife borrows them. Lifetime warranty as long as it says Craftsman on the box.

And a compression guage.

 

[Chickenhawk]

I would include an exhaust backpressure gauge.

If you buy a good scan tool with live readout, be sure it also reads ABS codes.

The fuel pressure tester you showed might not even have the correct adapter for our fuel lines. It is hard to tell. You don't need all those useless adapters because you never cut a fuel line to measure pressure; you will need an adapter commonly called a schrader valve. You simply screw the gauge onto the schrader valve underneath the frame near the fuel filter (2002 to 2004) or on the fuel rail in the engine compartment (2005+) to get fuel pressure.

 

[IllogicTC]

I grabbed a scanner without ABS codes, but getting one with ABS capability can save you more money in the long run, for example knowing which front hub to replace (should do matching pair, but sometimes money doesn't allow).

 

[Hypnotoad]

A cheap pitman arm puller comes in handy when doing suspension work. I bought mine for $7.

 

[blazinlow89]

A cheap pitman arm puller comes in handy when doing suspension work. I bought mine for $7.

Never needed it when doing my suspension, however the pickle fork came in handy quite a bit.

A set of crows feet can make easy work of some bolts, also a set of ratchet wrenches if the budget allows.

 

[Hypnotoad]

Never needed it when doing my suspension, however the pickle fork came in handy quite a bit.

A set of crows feet can make easy work of some bolts, also a set of ratchet wrenches if the budget allows.

It works well for separating the strut from the knuckle, separating tie rods, and getting the knuckle off the lower ball joint. I've got both the pickle fork and the pitman arm puller and prefer the pitman arm puller because there's no way you can damage any rubber boots with it.

 

[Playsinsnow]

It works well for separating the strut from the knuckle, separating tie rods, and getting the knuckle off the lower ball joint. I've got both the pickle fork and the pitman arm puller and prefer the pitman arm puller because there's no way you can damage any rubber boots with it.

Someone might be getting a PM when parts are procured and it warms up.

 

[Hypnotoad]

Someone might be getting a PM when parts are procured and it warms up.

Looking forward to it. I've got this itch to wrench, but it's too damn cold. I didn't enjoy changing my brake pads 2 weeks ago one bit.

 

[glfredrick]

Specific to the Trailblazer I've found that a serpentine fan belt wrench is invaluable, as is the proper fan clutch tool.

I like these Lisle branded versions:

Lisle 59000 Ratcheting Serpentine Belt Tool : Amazon.com : Automotive

Amazon.com: Lisle LI43300 Pneumatic Fan Clutch Wrench: Automotive

I also like the puller adaptor for CV axle removal:

OTC 7509 Inner CV Joint Puller : Amazon.com : Automotive

A decent home-level compression tester is a GREAT tool for diagnosis of internal engine components:

Amazon.com: OTC 5606 Compression Tester Kit: Automotive

And a vacuum gauge can be very helpful as well:

OTC 5613 Vacuum/Pressure Gauge Kit : Amazon.com : Automotive

I've found a set like this Gearwrench 1/4" set to be very valuable:

GearWrench 80300 51 Piece 1/4-Inch Drive 6 Point Socket Set - Amazon.com

And, these screwdrivers are FAR superior to Craftsman (quality of late is CRUD unless one gets their "pro" line):

GearWrench 80066 20 Piece Master Dual Material Screwdriver Set - Amazon.com

And these ratcheting wrenches will solve a lot of problems:

GearWrench 9416 16 Piece Metric Master Ratcheting Wrench Set - Amazon.com

These can help as well:

GearWrench 9900 7 Piece Flex-Head Combination Ratcheting Wrench Set Metric - Amazon.com

And, if money is not an object, replace everything I just listed with Snap On. The quality difference is ASTOUNDING and one really can't know just how much of a difference a proper tool can make until one actually uses the good stuff.

Big fan of these (especially if one does not have air tool capability) as well:

Milwaukee 2663-22 18-volt M18 1/2-Inch High Torque Impact Wrench with Friction Ring - Amazon.com

 

[rmsg0040]

In regards to the Milwaukee impact wrench. I would get the fuel versions. 3/8" at 200 ft lbs and 1/2" at 1100 ft lbs.

I would suggest the m12 cordless ratchet.

 

[Robbabob]

Add plastic prying tools. Primarily use mine to remove the door switch plates.

 

[neohio]

*snip*

And, if money is not an object, replace everything I just listed with Snap On. The quality difference is ASTOUNDING and one really can't know just how much of a difference a proper tool can make until one actually uses the good stuff.

As much as I'd love to tell you to buy snap-on, being a stock holder, former dealer, and family in the business since before I was a twinkle in an eye.
There are other options to look for as well.
Any 5 digit JH Williams part number with a "-" in it is made in the usa, and usually on the same line as the Snap-on stuff.
If you want high quality sockets, look into NOS Kobalt stuff on ebay, made by JH williams (a division of Snap-on Industrial)

If you want to take a look into some new JH Williams stuff, take a look at toolsdelivered. I have bought from them for work related stuff without and issue.
Also, depending on your location, McMaster-Carr is an excellent resource for American made sockets and decent prices.

In the end, anything is better than China Craftsman, I prefer to try and keep all my tools USA made.

Just my preference. I work in a factory and try to support the "little" guy when I responsibly can.

 

[IllogicTC]

So much is outsourced to China now I'm not overly picky as long as I can ensure that the guys on this side of the ocean make sure that their guys are keeping up to snuff with quality. Take a look at Apple - they send people over for inspections of the factories that produce iPhones, and of course have their own QC. Lately they've also been getting in the affairs of the treatment of workers too, but that's another story.

Stuff like DeWalt is seen as a good brand by people, but has been made in China for years. Now they're trying a new "Made in the USA from globally-sourced parts" initiative, pretty much China or wherever else still makes the motors and the batteries and forms the plastic, then it all ships over here where it's screwed and glued and bolted together.

The big thing isn't necessarily to avoid something manufactured in China in general, but to avoid Chinese manufacturers, if you get what I'm saying. Get Stanley over Xing Pao or whatever, for example.

 

[glfredrick]

As much as I'd love to tell you to buy snap-on, being a stock holder, former dealer, and family in the business since before I was a twinkle in an eye.
There are other options to look for as well.
Any 5 digit JH Williams part number with a "-" in it is made in the usa, and usually on the same line as the Snap-on stuff.
If you want high quality sockets, look into NOS Kobalt stuff on ebay, made by JH williams (a division of Snap-on Industrial)

If you want to take a look into some new JH Williams stuff, take a look at toolsdelivered. I have bought from them for work related stuff without and issue.
Also, depending on your location, McMaster-Carr is an excellent resource for American made sockets and decent prices.

In the end, anything is better than China Craftsman, I prefer to try and keep all my tools USA made.

Just my preference. I work in a factory and try to support the "little" guy when I responsibly can.

I have some Williams tools in my kit, all sourced (as you allude) while I worked in industry. I was also a Snappy dealer. Have a nice selection... Enough so that when I get on a truck these days, I'm "Meh, whatever, have it, have it, have it, have it..." Only things I really still want are REALLY big ticket like a full on engine diagnostic, their battery and electrical system tester, and a huge roller box. Never did source one of those while I was on the truck. Othewise, I have most of the other goodies, a brick, electronic torque wrenches, full sets of every size ratchet wrench, full sets of hand wrenches, pliers, screwdrivers, etc., and specialty tools up the whazoo -- have an entire cabinet devoted to just holding blow-molded boxes full of goodies and any former Snappy dealer knows what that means, cost wise. Of course, also a full line of air tools and the cordless impacts in 1/2 and 3/8. Not braggin' just happy...

And, yes! Craftsman is NOT what it was in grandpa's day! It is now basically worthless crud. And, for the record, EVERY tool manufacturer has a lifetime warranty, even Harbor Freight, which is better in many cases than current Craftsman offerings. Used to love testing out Craftsman tools on the truck. Just chuck something back to back with Snap On and twist the Craftsman (or is that Crapsman) in half without even applying effort.

From wiki:

Sears has never manufactured Craftsman products itself, instead relying on other manufacturers to make the products for them and then apply the Craftsman brand name. Sometimes, the Craftsman branded items include exclusive features or functions that separate them from the manufacturer's own brand or other brands that that manufacturer produces. Other times, Craftsman products are identical models to other brands with a different name badge on them. In the last 4 years, many of the hand tools sold under the Craftsman brand name are now made overseas. General hand tools have been made by a variety of manufacturers over the years including New Britain,[18] Moore Drop Forge,[10] Stanley,[19] Easco Hand Tools,[20] and most recently the Apex Tool Group (wrenches, ratchets, and sockets) and Western Forge[21] (screwdrivers, pliers, and adjustable wrenches). Some screwdrivers have also been manufactured by Pratt-Read (now part of Ideal Industries). However, most craftsman hand tools and power tools are now manufactured in China.

SOME Kobalt is ok, some is crud... Buyer beware. It is not all sourced on the same line.

Here is an interesting site with a timeline of tool manufacturers by date:

http://home.comcast.net/~alloy-artifacts/tool-timeline.html