SOLVED!-04 Trailblazer LT 4.2 L no crank - no start

[coolasice]

Glad you figured it out!

 

[mrrsm]

Nicely Done, @Rad ...


"Chance Favors ... The Prepared Mind."
Dr. Louis Pasteur

 

[Rad]

Glad you figured it out!

@coolasice...without your guidance and knowledge of the starting system, the truck would probably still be down. I appreciate all your input and pointing out that starter relay socket 68 needed to be hot in Run and Start and to go back and check the pink wire at the switch. That was the one check that I didn't do since for the most part I was working on the truck by myself and when I did check 68, it was hot in run and assumed that it was also hot in start. I guess at the time I had no one with me to turn the key to start for me to check. As I mentioned in one of my responses, sometimes you "can't get help from help".

The wife went to the dealer today with receipt and switch in hand to try and get a refund. They told her that they cannot take back electrical parts unless still in a sealed plastic bag. She responded something like this: "how are we supposed to know that the switch is bad if we don't take it out of the bag and install it to see if it works". She won't let this go and will visit the parts manager on Monday. If nothing else, she will ask for a replacement switch to keep in the glove box.

 

[Sparky]

Yeah that never made sense to me either. When I took a part back to O'Reilly's they said the part looks like I had installed it. Well, yeah, that's how I know the part was junk! "Oh... right, sorry." /sigh

 

[Mooseman]

I can understand for a refund but to replace a defective new part, should not be an issue. It's like exchanging it on warranty.

 

[No Tyme]

Sorry to bring back a thread not posted in for a couple of months but I can't help but wonder if the dealer made good on replacement of the faulty switch or not.
I did get scolded once for bringing a thread back to life, but after reading all 6 pages I must say that it was incredible the help that was given to original poster.

 

[Rad]

The wife was quite insistent to get a refund from the dealer and they did refund the money (however not very willingly). No more problems since installing the switch from Advance Auto Parts.

 

[No Tyme]

The wife was quite insistent to get a refund from the dealer and they did refund the money (however not very willingly). No more problems since installing the switch from Advance Auto Parts.

Thanks for the response. I know electrical parts are very hard to get refunds on. This thread is a testimonial to why I like these forums.

 

[Lowlife420]

Did you figure this out same problem here...to a t

 

[joshelet]

I am running into this same issue, driving down the road the other day my 2002 Envoy's engine just shut off, no crank. Replaced the ignition switch, still no crank. checked the fuse pin 86 and 87 12v with Key on, pin 30 jumped to pin 86 does crank the starter. pin 85 when key turned to start does not ground out when tested (test light on the positive battery terminal, wire out of pin 85 to test ground). very frustrating, reading these 6 pages of posted have given me al ot of ideas on what to check!!

 

[coolram62]

This thread was of great help in troubleshooting my '02 Envoy. I thought ignition switch after checking battery connections and Ignition/crank fuses (so I thought). I bought a switch from O'reilleys but didn't install it after more checking/tracing. They did give me a refund for it. Everything checked except losing voltage on pink ignition switch lead in start. Long story short I went thru all the fuses related to the engine. Fuse #28 PCM 1 15 amp was open. I replaced it and she started and ran fine. I'm not sure why the fuse opened in the first place. Next step I would have done is pull the power center up to check connections. Just thought I'd add this as another item to check.

 

[mrrsm]

“Suspicion without Diagnostics can become Quite Expensive ...and Produce No Useful Results…” @TJBaker57

“Learning the Hard Way ...its either GM/ACDelco ... or NOTHING for my Envoy.”
@xavierny25

“Sometimes… You can Learn MORE from a RANT than You can from RESEARCH…”
@MRRSM

These Two Videos WILL be painful to watch ...But they wind up being an Object Lesson in what it means to Accidentally Overlook something that might seem All Too Obvious in your Diagnosis.

For those coming here looking for the needed information.. I'll expedite the access to the important parts... and also help those of us that are Too Impatient to watch BOTH of these experiences from Beginning to End:

View Part #2 at around 8 Minutes in...and again at around 16:00 Minutes in to get to THESE ANSWERS THAT SOLVES THE PROBLEM:

(1) If You are Re-Charging an Old, Dead Battery... LOAD TEST IT BEFORE PROCEEDING ON WITH ANY DIAGNOSTICS!

(2) If You MUST Buy a Brand New Battery... INSIST ON HAVING THAT NEW BATTERY LOAD TESTED RIGHT THERE AT THE COUNTER!

But... If you are wise and want to learn MORE....Watch BOTH of these Videos carefully as they are LOADED with other information that is imperative to see and understand regarding just how much MORE UNNECESSARY WORK you will wind up doing if you overlook something that is OBVIOUS.

You can also observe that during this entire exercise in futility, HAVING THE BASIC DIAGNOSTIC TOOLS ALONG WITH A TECH 2 OR SIMILAR HIGH QUALITY DIAGNOSTIC TOOLS AVAILABLE THAT YOU KNOW HOW TO USE ...IS IMPERATIVE. We should NEVER miss chances like THIS one to learn MORE from Others whenever these opportunities arise!


“GM 4.2L No Crank – No Start” The Experiences of an Older Mechanic:

Part 1 of 2

Part 2 of 2

EDIT:

Depending upon Where You Are when this issue comes up... You may NOT get the chance to Drive the Vehicle over to AutoZone and and have them figure out whether or not you need to Buy A Brand New Battery.

So at first, these Battery Load Tester Offers may seem Kind of Pricey... Right Up Until that Last Moment when You REALLY Need to KNOW...

"Is THIS */?&%||+$\\ Battery DYING...? Or NOT?"

Amazon.com : car battery load tester

 

[TollKeeper]

And I will also point to this video. Although it doesnt directly pertain to the GMT360. It does pertain to following a correct diagnostic procedure, even if someone has already said "I already checked that"..

 

[royboy742016]

Hello everyone - I am a brand new member on this site and am thankful that it exists. This is my second try at posting this thread (although similar to many already posted). I lost all my previous typed text due to veering away from this site momentarily. It was actually a quite lengthy text explaining in detail what had happened to my wife's 04 TB out of nowhere. So this will be a more condensed version. We've owned this TB for roughly 4 years now and never had any real problems with it other than a bad ignition coil and a failed secondary air injection pump and water pump. Three days ago, my wife drove it to work just fine but it would not crank over when she went to leave. Both RPM and Speedometer gauges were jumping erratically about mid point of gauges with the key in the run position. Pushing the key to start did nothing but start the erratic gauge reading cycle over. The shift button on the shifter could not be depressed with key in run and foot on brake pedal and the shifter could not be moved out of the park position. When I checked it out, I noted that the interior lights looked dimmer than normal so I boosted the battery with my jumper cables which allowed me to depress the shift button and move the shift lever through all the gears. I went to crank it and it started and my wife drove it home with me following in my truck. Once home, shut it off, I would not restart and gauges erratic as before. Change the ignition switch which cured the erratic gauge condition as well as the locked shifter condition but still no crank. All the fuses are good, no blown ones found. I watched "MAY03LT's" video on "no crank testing and information". Thank you for posting! When I performed the test where MAY03LT connected the test light to the POS terminal of the battery with the test probe in socket 85 of the starter relay socket, had the key turned to crank and the test light illuminated, it failed that test. My test light did not illuminate when cranking. I did have power on sockets 87 and 86. I do not get voltage at the starter solenoid (purple trigger wire) when cranking. Battery has a full charge. Boosting/jumping the battery no longer helps. I can jump and start the truck by jumping across sockets 87 and 30 of the starter relay sockets and the truck will run. I checked the ground from socket 85 to vehicle chasis and the resistance is zero. Now I am leaning towards the neutral safety switch or the wire to and through it as being the culprit. Any thoughts, experience, suggestions, or advice on the next move I should make will definitely be greatly appreciated. I've been chasing this problem for 3 days now and it's becoming a PITA. Thank you for taking the time to read this!

I just really was simple just had to disconnect the battery for 5 min and reconnect that is what worked for me