1. We are working on the forum's attachment system. Attachments and avatars will be intermittently affected over the next 24 hours.
    Dismiss Notice

So give me some feedback

Discussion in 'OEM' started by AzTruckGuy, Aug 23, 2016.

  1. AzTruckGuy

    AzTruckGuy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    426
    Likes Received:
    67
    I have rust on it but I guess its not bad, but then again I shouldn't have any since its spent its life in Arizona has been a grocery suv :crackup:
     
  2. AzTruckGuy

    AzTruckGuy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    426
    Likes Received:
    67
    $20 to get the rear links off is a bargain, never again with OEM swaybar links. They end up cutting them off, POS links. IMG_2375.JPG

    untitled.png
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2016
  3. AzTruckGuy

    AzTruckGuy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    426
    Likes Received:
    67
    So the rears are on, the shop said that my swaybar bolts to the bracket where rusted on tight, and they could break and told me to leave the bushings on the rear as they looked fine, not happy since Id rather replace the rubber ones. But I know better so I left them as is. The one near the gas tank is a PITA to do, but its on. So anyone complete this and have rattles in the front? Seems to stop if I press the break pedal down? Thinking its the brake shield?

    1.png 2.png
     
  4. Trkdrvremt

    Trkdrvremt Gold Supporter

    Messages:
    348
    Likes Received:
    345
    My front rattles have been either loose or broken end links.
     
  5. AzTruckGuy

    AzTruckGuy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    426
    Likes Received:
    67
    I retightened the front but that's not where its coming from, seems to be coming from the wheel area, when I press on the brakes the rattle goes away?
     
  6. Blckshdw

    Blckshdw Moderator

    Messages:
    7,746
    Likes Received:
    6,541
    The only thing that becomes pressurized and moves when you press the brake pedal, is the caliper. Check your bolts and make sure they haven't loosened on you.
     
  7. AzTruckGuy

    AzTruckGuy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    426
    Likes Received:
    67
    Taking it to get a free brake check, need to see what causing that the groove on the drivers rotor and to see what spec the front and rotors are anyways
     
  8. AzTruckGuy

    AzTruckGuy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    426
    Likes Received:
    67
    So PepBoys says $347 for new front pads/rotors and resurface both rear rotors. Seems one of the pads was causing the groove in the drivers side rotor. They say the rotors have 2 more turns on them. Amazon has front and rear rotors and pads for $151 and I redo the whole system myself. IMG_2396.JPG
     
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2016
  9. Sparky

    Sparky Moderator

    Messages:
    10,607
    Likes Received:
    5,410
    I've always like Brakemotive stuff myself. Good quality ceramic pads n such. What pads/rotors are on Amazon?
     
  10. AzTruckGuy

    AzTruckGuy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    426
    Likes Received:
    67
    I ended up ordering ACDelco 1 Advantage Ceramic Front Disc Brake Pad Set with Hardware and rears also, Seems good reviews on them https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HDY8XQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    For rotors Dura vented front and rear, again good reviews https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00199IJX6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    So about $177 including a rear purge valve for the P0440 code problem. I am going to have to put some paint on the rotors as some have had rust issues, but looking at my rotors now, they have rust them and everywhere else, its the Trailblazer thing to have.

    Looking online at videos I assume these would be the only tools need for changing out front and rear brakes?

    http://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/disc-brake-caliper-tool

    Bleeding new brakes to make there is fresh fluid

    http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-a...an-brake-bleeder-kit/46839_0_0/?checkfit=true
     
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2016
  11. littleblazer

    littleblazer Gold Supporter

    Messages:
    6,864
    Likes Received:
    3,329
    I just use a c-clamp to compress the pistons.
     
    Matt and Blckshdw like this.
  12. AzTruckGuy

    AzTruckGuy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    426
    Likes Received:
    67
    Thanks I saw that on a video I don't have a c-clamp so I am limited on tools like that. So the thing is I want to bleed the system to get fresh fluid in there, I assume that fluid is original just like all the other fluids I changed out which were filthy. I still need to compress these pistons correct?
     
  13. littleblazer

    littleblazer Gold Supporter

    Messages:
    6,864
    Likes Received:
    3,329
    Yea. Pinch off line with hose clamp pliers, Crack the bleeder and compress the piston draing the old fluid from it. Then do a normal bleed/fluid change.
     
  14. AzTruckGuy

    AzTruckGuy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    426
    Likes Received:
    67
    So I ordered the Belltech 9510 shocks since I am going to be doing the full rotor change out and I just want to do everything at once. Not that I am having any issues with the hubs, but how does one check to see if there could be any issues since they will be more accessible during this time. When I changed out the Upper arms and ball joints, I sprayed the hell out of drive axle area with PB blaster getting the axle drives loose from the rust and this went into the bearing area. I have not experienced any weird noises or grinds after this.
     
  15. Matt

    Matt Silver Supporter

    Messages:
    2,618
    Likes Received:
    1,145
    Lift the front end and wiggle the wheels 9 and 3 and 12 and 6. If there's play, start checking things.
     
  16. AzTruckGuy

    AzTruckGuy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    426
    Likes Received:
    67
    I did this before one was tighter than the other one but than again I had shot upper ball joints and they have been replaced...it feels tighter with the upper arms and ball joints and stabilizer links replaced....the thing is when I let go of the steering wheel when driving it tends to track to the right sometimes
     
  17. Sparky

    Sparky Moderator

    Messages:
    10,607
    Likes Received:
    5,410
    Generally though, there won't be play in the hubs. Heck, even when I had one howling like a rabid banshee it didn't have any noticeable play in it.

    Tracking to the right could be more alignment than anything, although it is normal for a little bit of drift to the right due to the crowning of the roads (center is higher than the sides, to help with water runoff instead of pooling).
     
    Matt likes this.
  18. Matt

    Matt Silver Supporter

    Messages:
    2,618
    Likes Received:
    1,145
    You'll know there's a problem when you either feel a lot more vibration through the accelerator peddle (my last ones that I changed a few weeks ago weren't making noise but I could feel the vibration) and/or hear them growling, particularly when making turns.
     
  19. AzTruckGuy

    AzTruckGuy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    426
    Likes Received:
    67
    I feel no vibration through the accelerator pedal, only vibration I feel is from the motor mounts being shot
     
  20. Matt

    Matt Silver Supporter

    Messages:
    2,618
    Likes Received:
    1,145
    If that's the case, sounds like they're fine...you'll know when they're going/gone by the vibes and growl.
     
  21. AzTruckGuy

    AzTruckGuy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    426
    Likes Received:
    67
    Actually I think I am being paranoid when I was driving I think I felt a vibration, I know my tires are shot (hence why I am doing all this work) and I got the wrong Moog K80773 46mm(1.81 Inch) stabilizer bar bushings (for sale) I should have gotten the Moog K80772 44mm(1.73 Inch) since I have the smaller sway bar.
     
  22. AzTruckGuy

    AzTruckGuy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    426
    Likes Received:
    67
    I don't want to start a new thread and this thread is about suspension anyways, but when I changed out my rear coils, I didn't put new spring insulators. They popped up on Amazon and some of the reviewers stated that the rear needs 2 spring insulators per rear coil and how they wouldn't want metal to metal contact? When I looked at photos before doing the rears, most of the photos showed 1 spring insulator and it was the upper. Which is correct?
     
  23. Sparky

    Sparky Moderator

    Messages:
    10,607
    Likes Received:
    5,410
    There is just the upper one. Lower sits the spring right on the perch on the axle.
     
  24. AzTruckGuy

    AzTruckGuy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    426
    Likes Received:
    67
    So is there a huge difference in ride quality when a new spring insulator installed vs using the spring insulator with 96k miles at the time? I inspected them and they were not torn and still seemed good
     
  25. Matt

    Matt Silver Supporter

    Messages:
    2,618
    Likes Received:
    1,145
    This may very well be your answer.

    In regards to your insulators...I've close to 150K on mine and they're fine. I don't believe they affect the ride anywhere near as much as worn shocks do.
     
  26. Sparky

    Sparky Moderator

    Messages:
    10,607
    Likes Received:
    5,410
    Unless they're worn through, not really. I had 215k on mine and they were fine. They're mostly to cushion noise transfer from the springs to the frame/body. As long as they aren't split/cracked/etc they should be fine.
     
  27. AzTruckGuy

    AzTruckGuy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    426
    Likes Received:
    67
    Thanks guys, no they looked fine no cracks, tears, etc. I just took a 120 mile trip and the front was noisy, rattles and a sound that I couldn't pinpoint, it sounded like a whine but not really....with the front brakes needing rotors and pads, I might be just over thinking it, but I am also going to be getting it down to the those hubs and I just don't want to leave them in if they are bad...
     
  28. AzTruckGuy

    AzTruckGuy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    426
    Likes Received:
    67
    So I did a bleed and flush on my brakes today and I checked to see if I had any play in my tires after the upper ball joint replace. So I have a bad axel, bearing or hub on my passenger side...Here's a video I took and photos....both look decent and I cant tell which one it is, this is the sound I would hear and I couldn't tell what it was....Drivers side is fine and made no noise when I spun the tire in the air..I spilled some brake fluid and washed it off the passengers so they are not leaking. Only fluid left to flush is the power steering fluid and I'm done with fluids



    2016-09-21 16.12.39.jpg
    2016-09-21 16.12.18.jpg 2016-09-21 16.11.39.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2016
  29. Mooseman

    Mooseman Moderator

    Messages:
    10,517
    Likes Received:
    5,038
    Did you check for any play in the disconnect?
     
  30. AzTruckGuy

    AzTruckGuy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    426
    Likes Received:
    67
    Disconnect? Unaware of what the disconnect is?
     
  31. Mooseman

    Mooseman Moderator

    Messages:
    10,517
    Likes Received:
    5,038
    The right side axle goes into it on the oil pan. This video shows it well and what to check for:

     
  32. AzTruckGuy

    AzTruckGuy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    426
    Likes Received:
    67
    I will check it but the sounds seems to be coming from the hub area and not the disconnect area
     
  33. AzTruckGuy

    AzTruckGuy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    426
    Likes Received:
    67
    Ok checked the axels and there is a small amount of play on the passenger side where the disconnect is, the drivers side axel was tighter and no play....Now what? What are my options? I feel like taking off the 4WD drive system as I will never use it
     
  34. Mooseman

    Mooseman Moderator

    Messages:
    10,517
    Likes Received:
    5,038
    Well, you could remove the axle and see if it's actually the bearing or the axle making the noise. You can drive it without the axle.

    Although it didn't sound like it, check the brake splash guard possibly rubbing on the rotor.
     
  35. AzTruckGuy

    AzTruckGuy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    426
    Likes Received:
    67
    Ok heres the thing I am getting the Belltech shock kit today...so this weekend I am working on installing new struts, front/rear rotors and pads and motor mounts, I looked at the kit online for disconnect its $285...an aftermarket improved part around $315...I wont be using the 4WD at all when I am up in Phoenix, ever. So if I take the axels off and drive around like this for a bit until I figure out if I want to do the disconnect or not, will it damage the diff? Or any 4wd parts?
     
  36. Sparky

    Sparky Moderator

    Messages:
    10,607
    Likes Received:
    5,410
    If you take both axles out you'll want to seal up the open hole on the driver side. A Gatorade cap is a perfect fit to keep crud out of there.

    Could do the same on the disconnect side just to keep crud out of it. I opted to rebuild my disconnect instead of replace it as it was a lot cheaper (though more time consuming).
     
  37. AzTruckGuy

    AzTruckGuy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    426
    Likes Received:
    67
    What rebuild kit did you get? For future reference. I just don't have time to rebuild at the moment. By the time the part or rebuild kit is ordered and it arrives I have to head to Phoenix on Monday and than heading back Thursday and then Sat moving up there.
     
  38. Sparky

    Sparky Moderator

    Messages:
    10,607
    Likes Received:
    5,410
    Wasn't a kit. I ordered the various parts that I needed from online. Inner and outer seals, bearings, 3 thrust washers. My shift fork, gears, and collar were all OK. Ended up busting the housing so I had to go to a junk yard and buy another used (and also worn out) disconnect for the housing half I needed.
     
  39. AzTruckGuy

    AzTruckGuy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    426
    Likes Received:
    67
    If I were to replace it Id prob end up just buying an improved unit..Dont ever want to touch grease ever again lol
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2016
  40. AzTruckGuy

    AzTruckGuy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    426
    Likes Received:
    67
    So I am very happy with the McGaughys 3" lowering coil and Belltech rear shock combo. I installed the coils a while back and had the Black Blisteins with them. So much better and tighter in the rear now, I can now tell how my ride was just worn and old.
    Old vs McGaughys
    rear shocks.JPG

    The reason why you need new shocks if you lower
    Shock1.png

    Why would GM even put this shock on a 4600LB Suv?
    Shock2.png
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2016

Share This Page