My 2004 Envoy XUV just started a delayed responce from a standstill. It feels like a slipping or slow to engauge 1st gear. This was coupled with the yellow service light. The tuck drives well once it gets above 15 mph and shifts smoothly. It almost feels like a clogged catalytic coverter however, it does this with the engine hot or cold. Any ideas? The truck has 210,000 miles and the trans fluid is full, doesn't smell burnt and serviced 30,000 miles ago.
Slow tranny response from a stop
- Thread starter ahimon
- Start date
Or go to Harbor Freight and buy a cheap code reader. EVERY group of neighbors/buddies/co-workers should own a code reader, or if you're the first one of your friends to own one, charge 'em a six-pack to read their codes. Profit!
kkoether
Member
- Aug 18, 2013
- 37
Our 2004 Rainier started acting similar to what you describing. Ours turned out to be a bad CPAS (Camshaft Position Actuation Solenoid). Look between the power steering pump and the engine right behind the upper radiator hose. You should see an electrical connector. That is the CPAS. Unplug it and look in the connector. If it has oil in it it's bad. It's not hard to replace but you do need to unbolt the power steering pump to gain enough clearance to remove the old one and install the new one. It made all the difference in our Rainier. I cleaned the oil out of both sides of the connector on the old one and it helped some while waiting for the new part to arrive.
From what I read before replacing mine the general conscience is to ONLY use Genuine GM here. Lots of reports of problems with aftermarket replacements. I got mine from GM Parts Direct. Part #12615873. They had the best price when I ordered mine. $46.70 to my door.
BTW, Mine was not throwing any codes just running like CRAP! Poor gas mileage too.
Hope this helps.
From what I read before replacing mine the general conscience is to ONLY use Genuine GM here. Lots of reports of problems with aftermarket replacements. I got mine from GM Parts Direct. Part #12615873. They had the best price when I ordered mine. $46.70 to my door.
BTW, Mine was not throwing any codes just running like CRAP! Poor gas mileage too.
Hope this helps.
Pulled the codes and this was the readout:
P0758 Shift Solenoid B Circuit Electrical
P0740 TCC Circuit Malfunction
P0753 Shift Solenoid A Circuit Electrical
P0758 Again
P0785 Shift/Timing Solenoid Malfunction
P2761 I don't know what this one is - not listed in my Maxiscan users manual
I have no clue where these solenoids are and if they are adjusted or replaced....
let me know what you guys think.
P0758 Shift Solenoid B Circuit Electrical
P0740 TCC Circuit Malfunction
P0753 Shift Solenoid A Circuit Electrical
P0758 Again
P0785 Shift/Timing Solenoid Malfunction
P2761 I don't know what this one is - not listed in my Maxiscan users manual
I have no clue where these solenoids are and if they are adjusted or replaced....
let me know what you guys think.
I would change trans fluid and filter first and check solenoid connections when pan is off.
How many miles on this trans? What has been the maintenance history?
A trans shop will probably just give a quote for a rebuild if there is metal in the oil. If there is metal in the oil then its probably time since the solenoids are jammed with crap. You can try changing the solenoids and doing a flush but that may or may not work. Again, how many miles and is it worth your time to do this or just get a rebuild.
If you want a rebuild it is still drivable so get multiple quotes if you can.
How many miles on this trans? What has been the maintenance history?
A trans shop will probably just give a quote for a rebuild if there is metal in the oil. If there is metal in the oil then its probably time since the solenoids are jammed with crap. You can try changing the solenoids and doing a flush but that may or may not work. Again, how many miles and is it worth your time to do this or just get a rebuild.
If you want a rebuild it is still drivable so get multiple quotes if you can.
210,000 miles on the trany. The fluid has been changed regularly. The last time maybe 40-50,000 miles ago. The fluid on the stick looks and smells normal.
05EnvoyXL
Member
- Dec 27, 2012
- 107
I have a code P0752 for shifter B solenoid malfunction, no 2nd or 4th gear. rpms rev to 4000 before it shifts down and hangs up at 25 mph I literally have to take the foot off the gas at 3000 let it shift down, then accelerate. after 50 mph truck drives fine between 50 and 70. max I do is 70 mph. im trying to replace both A and B solenoids first before I look into the dreaded tranny rebuild.
gmcman
Member
- Dec 12, 2011
- 4,656
ahimon said:
Here's the thread, MAY03LT tracked down fuse #47. Caused similar issues to yours.
http://gmtnation.com/f23/1st-gear-not-working-8531/
jimmyjam said:
I think with clean unburnt fluid optimism makes sence, or at least I hope so. I don't know how long these tranys usually last, but I have owned this truck for the last 180,000 miles and it has treated me well and I have kept up on my maintainance. When I used to rebuild tranys the signs usually were obvious. Today all these electronics make me wounder if we are better off. I will check all fuses and pull the pan. Thanks
All the fuses are good. I have cleared the codes and the problem came back once when cold. I cleared the codes again and let the truck warm up before putting it into gear and don't get any codes and the trans works fine.
kkoether said:
It's not low. I have a hard time beleiving any oil is not more viscous when warm. Think of all the small spaces in the valve body and servos/pistons that fluid has to squeeze through!
gmcman said:
Thanks. I have been all over those connections. Just put a new battery in 5 months ago. Only the second battery in the truck with 205,000.....not bad. Got this one discounted because the last Sears Diehard didn't make it through the pro rated warranty period. When you drive as much as I do, it pays to get the longer term warraties. I have also had new Michellins discounted twice because they didn't make it the full millage warranty.
I want to get the trany to act up again and codes to come back up before dropping the pan. Isn't there a diagnostic tool I can use to check out these circuts and solenoids?
Left the truck at a reputable engine and trans rebuild shop for 15 days. They only experienced it once and also experienced the trans going into limp mode once (or so they say). They couldn't find the problem. I had them change the trans fluid and filter, check all connections and replace the fuel filter. $368 latter, took the truck home and it started again. I drove the truck a couple days and the only thing I noticed was that my ignition switch would stick a little when shutting off the truck. Fuse 47 still had 12V both sides and trans would at times bump hard when cold while going from park to reverse or park to drive. Still had the slow takeoff from stop 30% of the time. I decided to change the ignition switch based on the symptoms and electrical flow through and to the trans solinoids. It's been driven daily for 3 weeks now and it never happened again. Problem solved. Thanks for everyones input!