Rough idle in drive, runs rich, catalyst P code
- Thread starter coleman
- Start date
gmcman
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- Dec 12, 2011
- 4,673
You can omit the cleaning....
Unhook NEG battery cable Remove harness from TB Perform cleaning Attach TB harness After 30 min of having the battery unhooked, reattach NEG terminal. Turn key to ON with all the dash lights on. DO NOT START AND DO NOT TOUCH GAS PEDAL TB will perform series of noises during this time. Leave key ON for about 5 minutes. Do not turn key off. Start engine DO NOT TOUCH GAS PEDAL let idle for 10 min.
Unhook NEG battery cable Remove harness from TB Perform cleaning Attach TB harness After 30 min of having the battery unhooked, reattach NEG terminal. Turn key to ON with all the dash lights on. DO NOT START AND DO NOT TOUCH GAS PEDAL TB will perform series of noises during this time. Leave key ON for about 5 minutes. Do not turn key off. Start engine DO NOT TOUCH GAS PEDAL let idle for 10 min.
You could have someone press the throttle with the key on and engine off and look at it to see if it moves smoothly. Just don't move it manually while the key is on or damage may result.
I too was having the same problem with a bad vibration in drive at a stop light. My problem was my coolant temperature sensor. I did not have a check engine light on for it. When I ckecked it with a ohm meter is was way below range. Its worth a shot for you and pretty inexpensive. Good luck.
The saga continues.
Yesterday the ABS light came on, I lost power for a couple seconds, and the AC stopped blowing cold. The ABS light went off about 30 minutes later; the AC didn't come back until this morning, then came and went during the day. Then the trim plate around the passenger door handle fell off when my wife closed the door.
Unfortunately, the truck has to go. My wife is playing the "you have a 1 yr old and can't afford to stall anywhere or drive around with no AC" card. I live in South Florida so I reluctantly have to agree with her.
I did bring the truck to my local GM dealership this morning. They offered suggestions, but no real answers. In fact, they were hesitant about even working on the car because of its age.
Anyway, it's adios, Trailblazer. You've been a great truck for the last 12 years.
Guys, thanks for all the info and assistance here and "over there". Never met a more helpful group!
Now I'm trying to decide between the Equinox or the Terrain. No support here for either one of those, so I'll be movin' on.
Yesterday the ABS light came on, I lost power for a couple seconds, and the AC stopped blowing cold. The ABS light went off about 30 minutes later; the AC didn't come back until this morning, then came and went during the day. Then the trim plate around the passenger door handle fell off when my wife closed the door.
Unfortunately, the truck has to go. My wife is playing the "you have a 1 yr old and can't afford to stall anywhere or drive around with no AC" card. I live in South Florida so I reluctantly have to agree with her.
I did bring the truck to my local GM dealership this morning. They offered suggestions, but no real answers. In fact, they were hesitant about even working on the car because of its age.
Anyway, it's adios, Trailblazer. You've been a great truck for the last 12 years.
Guys, thanks for all the info and assistance here and "over there". Never met a more helpful group!
Now I'm trying to decide between the Equinox or the Terrain. No support here for either one of those, so I'll be movin' on.
Got your back here. The upper nipple Should be capped or deleted on 2005+ models. 2005+ trucks have a returnless fuel system and the fpr is integral to the fuel pump assembly.
The lower nipple on the intake manifold goes to the hvac on lwb models. Capped or deleted on swb models.
The lower nipple on the intake manifold goes to the hvac on lwb models. Capped or deleted on swb models.
CaptainXL said:
I taped it off with black tape after I posted. No change.
Thinking of replacing the cam shaft position sensor (not the solenoid). Dealer said there was a 0340 code, even though the SES light was not lit.
Test drove the Equinox tonight. I had to scratch it off the list. The sound system is one of the worst I've ever heard in a vehicle and you can't replace it with all the fancy electronics in it and the custom shape. That's a deal breaker for me.
gmcman
Member
- Dec 12, 2011
- 4,673
coleman said:
Don't use tape. Use a proper vacuum cap, assorted sizes are avail at Autozone, Advanced, etc.
Can you give us a vacuum reading? Take it from the nipple you capped off. The TB has a hose facing forward you can pull and use the port on the TB but I favor the manifold nipple.
gmcman
Member
- Dec 12, 2011
- 4,673
coleman said:
This is also concerning. I would like you to get a reading from the battery terminals when the engine is running at idle and at 1500 RPM's. Should be no less than 12.8-12.9 V and even that's too low., 13.8 would be good at the least.
Also check your ground connections at the fender, trans, and I believe there is another but not sure. Also check the battery cable at the rear of the alternator for corrosion.
gmcman said:
You know, I don't have a gauge. I'll pick a cheap one up at the auto store (along with a cap) tomorrow and reply back.
Even if we lick the idle issue, I now have the AC and ABS issues to contend with. I feel I'm fighting a losing battle.
gmcman
Member
- Dec 12, 2011
- 4,673
Also, when all is said and done, be sure to have the battery disconnected for awhile. Reason is, I was having an issue and I left the battery disconnected overnight. A bit overkill but I wanted to be sure the ECM was drained of any residual juice.
Hang in there...I feel we can get to the bottom of it.
Hang in there...I feel we can get to the bottom of it.
I'll have to pick up a cheap multimeter today, too. Never needed one. Definitely couldn't hurt having it around.
The ABS code thrown as was C0237. The tech at the dealership said that there was a service bulletin for that code that required rewiring the speed sensor all the way up to the computer. Seems excessive.
The ABS code thrown as was C0237. The tech at the dealership said that there was a service bulletin for that code that required rewiring the speed sensor all the way up to the computer. Seems excessive.
I changed both the camshaft position actuator and sensor. Engine seems to run a little smoother, but still shakes at full stops. I'm really convinced it's the motor mounts. Both battery terminals are clean as a whistle and the battery ground is in great shape. I couldn't find the ground coming off the transmission.
Hopefully changing those two parts will help with the stalling/loss of power. Can anyone post a picture of where the ABS sensor is on the back of the transmission so I check it for wear or corrosion?
The vacuum reading from that nipple next to the resonator box is... 0. Nothing. I guess it's truly not used for anything. I got a cap anyway and capped it off. Where else can I take a reading? I don't have time today to get the voltage readings, but will get those during the week.
I did find another issue while under the car, but I'll create another post for that.
I was able to buy my truck a one year reprieve, so I won't be looking to put a lot of money into it - just enough to keep it going.
Hopefully changing those two parts will help with the stalling/loss of power. Can anyone post a picture of where the ABS sensor is on the back of the transmission so I check it for wear or corrosion?
The vacuum reading from that nipple next to the resonator box is... 0. Nothing. I guess it's truly not used for anything. I got a cap anyway and capped it off. Where else can I take a reading? I don't have time today to get the voltage readings, but will get those during the week.
I did find another issue while under the car, but I'll create another post for that.
I was able to buy my truck a one year reprieve, so I won't be looking to put a lot of money into it - just enough to keep it going.
GMCman :When you say LWB vs SWB do you mean the EXT models vs non EXT models? Trying to follow along here but I'm new.
Coleman : I hope you get to the bottom of this brother, there's only so many things it could be and you're narrowing down that list just keep trucking.
Coleman : I hope you get to the bottom of this brother, there's only so many things it could be and you're narrowing down that list just keep trucking.
xtitan1 said:
SWB (Short Wheel Base) = non-EXT vs. LWB (Long Wheel Base) = EXT.
xtitan1 said:
Thanks, man. Still, my baby only has a year left in the family. Now that I have a transmission leak, too, its fate is all too clear. I'll keep her going as best I can for the next year, but I won't be dumping tons of money into the problem.
gmcman
Member
- Dec 12, 2011
- 4,673
Yes, SWB is the same as the TB EXT. Where is the trans leak? Pan gasket or cooling line. Generally these transmissions don't leak and if they do it's an easy fix unless it's a pump seal but highly doubtful or tail shaft seal?
Whoops...my bad, kid distraction. LWB is the same as the TB EXT. SWB is short wheel base
Whoops...my bad, kid distraction. LWB is the same as the TB EXT. SWB is short wheel base
gmcman
Member
- Dec 12, 2011
- 4,673
Now this thread has me baffled. Here's how I have my vacuum test port setup, easier reach. This is where I have right about 20 inches.
This is how I tested my FPR and I have no vacuum at this port.
Anyone have some input on this? Regardless of RPM, there is no vacuum.
This is how I tested my FPR and I have no vacuum at this port.
Anyone have some input on this? Regardless of RPM, there is no vacuum.
gmcman
Member
- Dec 12, 2011
- 4,673
OK, for the longest time I have been under the impression the FPR is a ported source. While I suppose it can be classified as one, it seems that since this is not a carburetor, and we don't have vacuum secondaries, then the resonator is under atmospheric pressure and the FPR hose is there in case the filter gets clogged. Makes sense since any vacuum at the resonator would indicate a very clogged air filter and a fuel pressure reduction may be needed.
At least that's how I understand it now, any more input please add.
At least that's how I understand it now, any more input please add.
Quick update: I can't believe it's been this long since I last posted on this thread. Life keeps getting in the way. Sorry about that, guys.
After now driving it for the last 5 months or so, much of the shaking has disappeared and I've had zero engine stalls. Replacing the camshaft position actuator and sensor did the trick. Easy repairs for little money. I recall the dealership wanted $450 or so to replace the actuator and that was eight years ago - when it didn't even need to be replaced. There's still some low frequency vibration when I'm stopped with the transmission engaged, so I believe that to be the motor mounts. I'll live with that for the time being.
As always, you guys are great.
After now driving it for the last 5 months or so, much of the shaking has disappeared and I've had zero engine stalls. Replacing the camshaft position actuator and sensor did the trick. Easy repairs for little money. I recall the dealership wanted $450 or so to replace the actuator and that was eight years ago - when it didn't even need to be replaced. There's still some low frequency vibration when I'm stopped with the transmission engaged, so I believe that to be the motor mounts. I'll live with that for the time being.
As always, you guys are great.
coleman said:
Thanks for the update. Mine has started having similar stalling issues (IE, ABS light lose of power-sometimes it even just stalls outright and says "turn off engine")
When it stalls-stalls there is a very rich smell of fuel.
At a stop the RPMS drop around 100 or so but it typically recovers and no real noticeable power issues.
Haven't noticed any fuel reductions but the issue only started a week ago but it comes and goes.
Not to hijack the thread but figure best to continue on a current.
The codes below I was warming her up (it was -20F in MN that day.) Came back out about 15 minutes later to find it not running.
I was able to restart it fine. Grabbed my computer pulled the codes, saved and cleared. I thought perhaps the heavy winds just
effected the sensor (gusts were 50+ earlier in the day) somehow as it didn't present any further issues for a few days and around 100miles.
[] P1345 - Crankshaft Position (CKP)-Camshaft Position (CMP) Correlation (SES) (History) (Immature)
[] P0336 - Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor A Performance (Immature)
[] P0335 - CKP Sensor A Circuit Performance (Immature)
Today was idling and got. Didn't die or anything.
[] P1345 - Crankshaft Position (CKP)-Camshaft Position (CMP) Correlation (SES) (History) (Immature)
Cleared
Was driving on the highway around 50 and just completely stalls out with a rich smell of gas. No codes and
was able to restart and drive home without issue. Grabbed my other vehicle to run my errands.
I was suspecting the cam sensors. Will update tomorrow assuming it's not too cold to change them.