rotors?

[Instrumental]

I need to do brakes soon, so I'm getting my ducks in a row. I have 2 questions.

1. Where can I find the Brakemotive set? I did an EBay search and can't find anything for the GMT360s.

2. Bendix rotors? I found these on Rockauto, not sure of the quality. Anyone know anything about them?

 

[Opeth]

Brakemotive is on eBay....not that hard to find.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-REAR-...es&fits=Model:Trailblazer&hash=item5ae66ede53

 

[meerschm]

I would recommend whatever you choose, get the painted variety for a bit more corrosion resistance.

(on the non-contact surfaces)

 

[xtitan1]

If Brakemotive - eBay Listings - 2006 CHEVROLET TRAILBLAZER 8446 shows nothing in painted, does that mean they don't make them or they just currently don't have any available on eBay?

 

[Sparky]

They don't paint them. They are all nickel coated.

I've had mine on my Trailblazer for a few years and am replacing them soon. I drive in all sorts of gunk and they aren't overly rusty. Yeah, there is some surface rust on the hat area and vanes, but nothing terrible.

You could always get them, then high temp paint them yourself. Probably cheaper to DIY that anyway than to pay more for a set of painted ones.

 

[xtitan1]

No I roger that, I think they're actually black zinc coated on top of the normal zinc coating via some electrochemical process which they claim is more rust resistant and durable than paint

 

[Sparky]

Oh, I didn't know that was offered.

 

[Instrumental]

Now I feel stupid, my eBay search for Brakemotive did not turn up that listing, and I did try several variations.

So, are there any cons to the drilled and slotted rotors? Clearly the improved stopping and cooling is a pro.

 

[Mooseman]

I've tried drilled rotors with dismal results and warping. Went back to regular rotors, no problem. There has been reports of cracking from the holes and the whole idea is just not sound by following simple physics. This article is very well written and explains it well:
WHY Blank rotors are better than cross drilled and/or slotted - Honda-Tech

 

[meerschm]

I ordered these from Rock Auto

More Information for RAYBESTOS 580029

they seem solid to me. brings me to a smooth solid stop.

I mention the coating because the previous disks became so rusted and pitted, warped beyond use. dangerous to drive. My use takes me into the snow on well-salted highways, and I probably did not get her rinsed enough after.

the only bendix rotors I saw on Rock Auto were on the economy section. (ok if you never drive, or don't see lasting too long, or just around town) Bendix is an established name, and they probably will work ok.

I figure if you are willing to do the job yourself, and want to know it will last, find a way to spend the extra $20 or so. I also am not a huge fan of slotted disks. seems like more marketing than engineering.

 

[Opeth]

I have a SWB but swapped caliper brackets to the V8 and larger rotors... I also tow a 3500lb boat during the summer. I toasted my stock rotors, I'm on my second set of brakemotive pads and rotors. Never warped or cracked anywhere... Killed the pads quicker than avg because of the boat and my big offroad tires. For $200 and 2 yrs out of the first set, I'm sold.

 

[meerschm]

While you are at it, I am a big fan of flushing the brake fluid. just run fresh fluid through, in the reservoir, out the bleed valves. you can do it without tools, with a friend, if you can coordinate when to push on the pedal, or with a tool. motive makes a nice one.

http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.com/

 

[Sparky]

I've tried drilled rotors with dismal results and warping. Went back to regular rotors, no problem. There has been reports of cracking from the holes and the whole idea is just not sound by following simple physics. This article is very well written and explains it well:
WHY Blank rotors are better than cross drilled and/or slotted - Honda-Tech

There haven't been reports of brakemotive cracking tho. Some drilled, yes, and I was skeptical because of that, but it seems brakemotive does it correctly.

 

[triz]

I've tried drilled rotors with dismal results and warping. Went back to regular rotors, no problem. There has been reports of cracking from the holes and the whole idea is just not sound by following simple physics. This article is very well written and explains it well:
WHY Blank rotors are better than cross drilled and/or slotted - Honda-Tech

I have to call BS on that thread. I've been running cross drilled rotors for quite some time on both the Trailblazer and my 2zz Mr2Spyder. The reason I had switched to cross drilled on the Trailblazer in the beginning was because I was running the blank OEM rotors and those kept warping all the time. I decided to go aftermarket and go with cross drilled because I like the look. Been running those for years now. I believe on my second set of cross drilled rotors now. I have never had them warp or crack. My though on cracked cross drilled rotors is to find a quality seller.

As far as temps blanks vs cross drilled. Cross drilled do keep temps considerably cooler. I can not answer on the Trailblazer but on the MR2 they kept my temps 70-80 degree cooler compared to my friends blank rotors. This was on numerous spirited runs back to back at Deals Gap 318 turns in 11 miles.

 

[Playsinsnow]

Two thoughts. Cheap china rotors wear faster regardless of what they look like. And drilled and/or slotted rotors can rust out faster in winter due to all the neat nooks and crannies the salt can hide in. Washing once a week may not be enough depending on conditions. I'll provide feedback on this if I ever make the switch in my TB. Stock rotors at 124k.

 

[Sparky]

I haven't noticed any more rusting on my brakemotive rotors vs the blanks it had previously, and my truck is the infamous rust bucket, so...

 

[Playsinsnow]

I haven't noticed any more rusting on my brakemotive rotors vs the blanks it had previously, and my truck is the infamous rust bucket, so...

That should say a lot about brakemotives

 

[Sparky]

yeah don't get me wrong, they still rust, but it isn't any worse than any other rotor I've seen subjected to the winter crap.

 

[Playsinsnow]

If you find a rotor that will not rust, let us know.

I have no issues with d/s rotors in winter. If conditions truly get gnarly, the wheels become iced and caked with horrible balance. Should clean your wheels every trip if so. With d/s rusting faster with everday driving, I can't imagine how neglected the rest of the ride is. Unless the rotors were garbage to begin with.

 

[BoldAdventure]

I recently did this three months ago along with an upgrade to EXT/SS calipers and rotors.

I used the same brakemotive setup. Can't recommend them enough or doing the brake upgrade, it's not that expensive. The improvements are huge. Especially if you have larger tires. Nay sayers are full of shit.

I wrote up a whole how-to on the other forum: offroadTB.com - View topic - How to upgrade to EXT/SS Brake Upgrade



Right now I'm trying to figure out how to mount these spares:

 

[meerschm]

"FoS" is kind of harsh.

 

[c0a8l0v6i8n9]

I am also running the brakemotive setup on my TB. Instant improvement. eBay name is brakemotive76. They use powerstop pads and rotors.