Repairing center console lid.
- Thread starter D3vious
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Grimor
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I filled mine with great stuff foam, and added a cup holder
BlazingTrails
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I'm starting to feel a little dip in the center of mine now. I may do a write up on a good repair this weekend. This seems to be a popular theme recently.
Mounce
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Typically, it is one of the first parts asked for when some starts a thread about parting out a TB/Voy.BlazingTrails said:
Heck, it's one of the first parts mentioned by the vultures who appear after accident pictures get posted.
The dent in mine has turned into more of a crater. I should probably get around to addressing this at some point. 
Mounce
Member
Same here, slowly becoming the grand canyon in there.Blckshdw said:The dent in mine has turned into more of a crater. I should probably get around to addressing this at some point.
Looks like I've got a big crack down the middle separating 2 large pieces that extend over to the middle screw posts. Then a bunch of smaller broken pieces around the perimeter of those. The plastic welds holding the hinge plate to the lid are cracked pretty bad too. Will try some JB Weld on those I think. 
I used Great Stuff on the same part on my old Blazer...somehow goofed it up and had a big lump. The one on my Trailblazer is just starting to crater. I guess we're not supposed to actually lean on the thing when sliding our butt's into the seat.
D3vious
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I'm actually thinking about cutting some metal to pop in there as a reinforcement.
Looks like I'm not alone in using the "elbow on the lid, butt shimmy" maneuver!!
Looks like I'm not alone in using the "elbow on the lid, butt shimmy" maneuver!!
Since I'm tall, I don't lean on my center console when entering/exiting the truck. I usually lean on it when I'm driving, or reaching over to the passenger side of the vehicle for something, so not very often. I picked up a syringe of JB Clear Weld (advertised strength on the package is higher than the standard JB Weld) so I'm gonna give that a shot and see what happens.
Envoy_04
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I plastic welded mine back together with a soldering iron and zipties, then reinforced it underneath with a piece of styrofoam I cut to fit off of a big block. Holding up pretty good so far to my use of the "elbow on console and butt shimmy" method. Lol
IllogicTC
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Good to see you back aroundEnvoy_04 said:
The "fusion weld" (melting plastic together) process is doable. It works a lot better when like-plastic is used - for example, TPO and PVC may not come together very well, but melting vinyl to vinyl will work in a cinch. I don't know what the interiors are made from, but I believe I've read the exterior plastic like the bumper covers are TPO.
Another thing to remember when attempting this is TEMPERATURE CONTROL. Anyone remember melting army men as a kid? I'm sure we all remember that when flame is directly applied, those things not just melt but actually burn and blacken, and the plastic's properties may change. An open flame from a lighter can easily be higher than 500 fahrenheit, which is an ideal temperature for fusion-welding PVC. So the use of a soldering iron (where temperature can generally be controlled on anything beyond the most basic models) you can test and find an ideal temperature to get the plastic goopy without going crazy.
LikeEnvoy
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I just did mine- Seems that "butt Shimmy" method is the only way to settle into the seat prioperly.- the whole design makes you put your elbow there.
My Screw posts had shatered too so I used Cyanoacrylate gel to hold those in place then JB weld stippled into a fibregalss cloth patch that I laid over the entire centre section, stippling the resin and cloth around the plastic posts too. To keep the cloth flat, I put cling film over it all and filled with sand overnight).
Then I cut a foam block to fit between the top and bottom parts of the lid, to prevent the top cracking down again and assembled. Nice and strong now.
Oh, also the rear metal plate (hinge mount) had broken plastic pips that once held it to the lid. The underlying posts were still intact so I countersunk the holes of the metalplate and secured a good size wood screw into the holes- nice sharp ones that cut into the plastic. You need to use a good size that cuts into the plastic but without cracking the post open.
Much cheaper than the $99 I have seen advertised for a replacement.
My Screw posts had shatered too so I used Cyanoacrylate gel to hold those in place then JB weld stippled into a fibregalss cloth patch that I laid over the entire centre section, stippling the resin and cloth around the plastic posts too. To keep the cloth flat, I put cling film over it all and filled with sand overnight).
Then I cut a foam block to fit between the top and bottom parts of the lid, to prevent the top cracking down again and assembled. Nice and strong now.
Oh, also the rear metal plate (hinge mount) had broken plastic pips that once held it to the lid. The underlying posts were still intact so I countersunk the holes of the metalplate and secured a good size wood screw into the holes- nice sharp ones that cut into the plastic. You need to use a good size that cuts into the plastic but without cracking the post open.
Much cheaper than the $99 I have seen advertised for a replacement.
Escapepilot
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Epoxied the parts back together then a piece of fiberglass over the outside as reinforcement. Recently done so I'll have to see how long it lasts.
I repaired my '02 lid with some scrap sheet metal...1/8" rivets to fasten it...Seems strong enough, can't feel any imperfections under the rubber cover...Installing today
BlazingTrails
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bobaphat2001
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I fixed mine a little differently than any of the rest here. I thought of all those fixes. Good Stuff foam, fiberglass, metal, etc..
I ended up doing it with a piece of wood I had in my yard. It was the right width. I cut the length to fit and then took out the trusty dremel and a few grinding disks.
I cut out all the broken and cracked areas in the black plastic frame with the dremel. I then took my time shaping the piece of wood to fit inside the original black frame so that the wood was just beginning to pop up through the hole. I got it so the wood fit in between the two pieces of plastic perfectly.
I then used a tube of silicon caulking and filled the gaps in between the two halves and the wood. I then took the rest of the tube and put it over the whole top of the plastic and wood center and then put the vinyl cover back on the top. It looks original and is comfortable. The best part is it is like 300% stronger than the original. The bottom will break before this top lid will.
I ended up doing it with a piece of wood I had in my yard. It was the right width. I cut the length to fit and then took out the trusty dremel and a few grinding disks.
I cut out all the broken and cracked areas in the black plastic frame with the dremel. I then took my time shaping the piece of wood to fit inside the original black frame so that the wood was just beginning to pop up through the hole. I got it so the wood fit in between the two pieces of plastic perfectly.
I then used a tube of silicon caulking and filled the gaps in between the two halves and the wood. I then took the rest of the tube and put it over the whole top of the plastic and wood center and then put the vinyl cover back on the top. It looks original and is comfortable. The best part is it is like 300% stronger than the original. The bottom will break before this top lid will.
Bill Reid
Member
Mine was too far gone to try and repair the plastic skeleton. For those in a position like I was here is an aftermarket replacement plastic lid assembly. Just reuse your rubber cover and done. A bit expensive but appears to be a little thicker(?) than the OEM part.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/02-09-Trail...6:g:OIsAAOSwnDZUDyxp&vxp=mtr&tag=gmtnation-20
http://www.ebay.com/itm/02-09-Trail...6:g:OIsAAOSwnDZUDyxp&vxp=mtr&tag=gmtnation-20
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{tpc}
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We fixed my wife's by using this plastic welder stuff called plexus to put it back together. Its some strong stuff! But we ended up taking out the ribs and filling the whole thing with this plexus stuff and now you could stand on it and it won't break.
After seeing it though, it is apparent it is a weak design.
After seeing it though, it is apparent it is a weak design.
$ Khalid ! 9130
Member
I filled mine with great stuff foam, and added a cup holder
Talk about thread revival but do you have a write up or a how to for this. I would like to add a wireless charger there
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new guy here and just saw this thread. snowboarders use a thing called Ptex to fix scratches in their boards. its basically a stick thats the same materal as the base of the snowboard and you light it on fire and drip into the crack. I'm betting this would work as a plastic weld and keep the cover pretty solid. i need to fix mine.
The console cover comes off in 3 pieces. The top pad, the top plastic section that the pad covers and this is the part that usually breaks, then there's the bottom part that you see when you open the console lid. Only screws hold these together. You can take it apart and affix the wireless charger to the plastic parts. Now if you have the rubber like top pad this might be too thick to allow effective and efficient wireless charging. Maybe u can change this to a material that would be thinner and possibly better for wireless charging. But I would do some research as to the best wireless charger to use.
$ Khalid ! 9130
Member
After much comparison the best wireless charger with the best range is the Nokia Wireless Charger. Which I own. It has three coils which allow for a good recharge speed and better range.
I would like to create a "hole" of sorts to hold the phone in place while it charges kinda like the way it is implemented in the 2016 Tahoe, Yukon.
This is still a to do mod just a bit back in my mod list
Derrick Rucker
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As if the trailblazer didn't have enough cup holders alreadyI filled mine with great stuff foam, and added a cup holder
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Grimor
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The cup holder is from walmart, look in the boat section.
take the armrest apart and remove the rubber top. use a dremel or hole saw of the correct size on the plastic pieces. Put the rubber cover on and mark from the bottom side. cut the cover hole. I went a tiny bit smaller than the cup holder so it would be tight on it for a good seal.
you will want to make sure the cup holder isn't going to hit anything in the console or your lid wont close. I have some pics some place I think.
take the armrest apart and remove the rubber top. use a dremel or hole saw of the correct size on the plastic pieces. Put the rubber cover on and mark from the bottom side. cut the cover hole. I went a tiny bit smaller than the cup holder so it would be tight on it for a good seal.
you will want to make sure the cup holder isn't going to hit anything in the console or your lid wont close. I have some pics some place I think.
Grimor
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advcomp2019
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I was at my local U Pull It, and found a leather console lid. I could not feel any hole in it. So I opened it to check if it was OK. I found out that it was a different design from the other ones that I have found before.
I was wondering if anyone has seen this, or not. I will get photos shortly hopefully.
Edit:
Inside:
Outside:
I was wondering if anyone has seen this, or not. I will get photos shortly hopefully.
Edit:
Inside:
Outside:
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Derrick Rucker
Member
The one on the right is the same design as mine and it failed miserably so I had to do my own fix on itI was at my local U Pull It, and found a leather console lid. I could not feel any hole in it. So I opened it to check if it was OK. I found out that it was a different design from the other ones that I have found before.
I was wondering if anyone has seen this, or not. I will get photos shortly hopefully.
Edit:
Inside:
Outside:
advcomp2019
Member
Yea, I was just checking. I was not sure how much stronger this one was versus the other lid. I might just keep this one myself even tho it is leather with a small hole.
Here is a little bit of back story. About six to seven month ago, I had to fix the one in the 2002 Envoy that I have here. I had some tire and lube place change the oil, and the next thing I found was broken console lid. They would not pay for new one since they don't know who did it. Then when I found out that it was common issue from here, I decided to find one that was not that bad, and then have it reinforced since it is cheaper then getting a new one and have it happen again or reinforce a new one. I finally found one that was just starting to crack on the top. The way I had it reinforced was with a piece of sheet steel that the local body shop had and some body glue to glue the sheet steel to the top. It is kinda like how The Neens fixed his. Then I put some egg crate foam inside, too. It is really strong since then.
I did not know this at the time, but my one family member's 2006 TrailBlazer EXT had really bad broken console lid for a long time now. When they heard that I replace mine with a reinforced console lid, they asked to look at it. Now they want a reinforced console lid too. That is why I have been looking for the not so bad ones still, and then have it reinforced for them. It is just hard to find the not so bad ones to reinforce, tho.
I have been even thinking of finding another one for my Envoy, too. For this one tho, I might try to find a piece of sheet aluminum. Mine is really heavy with the piece of sheet steel that it will not stay open times.
I still can't believe that GM made really weak plastic parts. I still need to fix the seat switches area sometime.
rizzo20
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rizzo20
Member
Well I ordered from the link I posted above. I didn't want to spend $40.....but I said screw it. I expected this:
....but received this:
....but received this: