Rebuilding the front suspension

[v7guy]

I need to rebuild the front end. This will probably take me a week or more. Here's the thread.

Most of my bushing are shot, the half shafts need replaced, I've been getting a hum on curves, off/on ramps on the highway and I get a clicking during suspension movement. When I was replacing a worm half shaft I noticed some up down movement in the the lower ball joint and the tie rod ends flopped around with no effort. The shock mount on the A arm also hits the A arm by hand pressure. Basically, at 90k+ miles it needs replaced (or will soon, especially with my bigger tires and being lifted) This process should apply to anyone though. I'm upgrading the tie rod ends due to off road activities, you can replace with stock pieces if you stay on road.


DISCLAIMER : You can replace the whole a arm and have all the bushings installed with new ball joints. I decided to do this the hard way.

All the bushings are in sleeves. The old sleeves need to be pressed out of the A arm and the new bushings need pressed in. Basically this is probably going to be a massive pain in the ass for anyone without access to a press. Before I use a press I'm going to try a few home garage solutions first. My initial impression is that you would probably be better off just buying the A arm as many members have done before. This isn't going to be as simple as burning out the old bushing, cleaning the sleeve, and inserting the new bushing like is common with poly bushing upgrades.

I may sing a different tune after I'm done, but I'm skeptical.

Here's some pics...

2500HD inner and outer tie rod end (thanks for discovering this Donny) find the thread here... OffRoad TB - View topic - Fixing my steering today...

Picked up some timken hubs. I've used cheaper hubs in the past and had to replace them swiftly. When I replaced the hubs in my firebird that's running a 18x11 wheel with 315 35 18 tires the Timkens held up the best, the cheap hubs were garbage in a couple months. Experience has taught me that you should spend a little more in this area. I didn't spring for the SKF hubs, but I was tempted. The timken hubs look nice and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend them.

I already had a duralast ball joint and I was going to use it. But after seeing the MOOG and comparing the two I think I would spend the money on the MOOG if I had the two option in front of me. The lip is significantly thicker on the MOOG, and the tolerances are better. The MOOG takes a lot more pressure to move the joint around. They both have grease fittings, and they both are drilled for a cotter pin. I'm leaning towards running both and seeing how they hold up.

 

[rmsg0040]

Those moog upper ball joints have a small hole in the top threads. Does it need a cotter pin?

 

[ieatglue]

This is EXACTLY what I was planning on doing this winter break! I just can't find any local MOOG suppliers with those bushings (69,70,71,72)

Also, could you please let me know where you picked up the bushings and how many bushings come in each box? If it says upper control arm bushing, would I need 2 boxes or 4?

My suspension has gotten so bad that the truck pulls to the left when braking

 

[Fire06]

I have always liked Moog. Worth the extra money when you can get them.

 

[v7guy]

Recently it was shown you can get the 2500HD parts on EBAY for $35 (outer and inner). They list the part numbers in the sale ad and they're are supposedly the MOOG parts. Nobody has them in hand yet to verify though. I picked up everything from rock auto, here are the part numbers and pricing.

MOOG K200270 Control Arm Bushing $ 16.33 $ 0.00 1 $ 16.33
MOOG K6664 Ball Joint $ 56.79 $ 0.00 2 $ 113.58
MOOG K200271 Control Arm Bushing $ 10.92 $ 0.00 1 $ 10.92
MOOG K200269 Control Arm Bushing $ 15.16 $ 0.00 2 $ 30.32
MOOG K200270 Control Arm Bushing $ 16.33 $ 0.00 1 $ 16.33
MOOG K6663 Ball Joint $ 45.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 45.79
MOOG K200272 Control Arm Bushing $ 10.86 $ 0.00 2 $ 21.72
MOOG K200271 Control Arm Bushing $ 10.92 $ 0.00 1 $ 10.92
TIMKEN 513188 Axle Bearing and Hub Assembly $ 140.79 $ 0.00 2 $ 281.58
2007 CHEVROLET SILVERADO 2500 HD 6.0L V8
MOOG ES3609 Tie Rod End $ 48.79 $ 0.00 2 $ 97.58
MOOG ES3488 Tie Rod End $ 32.79 $ 0.00 2 $ 65.58


All the replacement ball joints take a cotter pin.
The upper a arm bushings come 2 in a box, one bushing for the front of the arm and one bushing for the back of the arm. You need 2 boxes, one for each side.

 

[Fire06]

That is a stack of parts. I think you are going to be having alot of fun!!

 

[ieatglue]

Thanks for the reply! Each time I add the parts to my cart, I get different shipping locations (A and B) for $34 and $27. $71 for shipping is a bit too much

 

[jimmyjam]

If i were to do this job again, I'd take my arms and spindle to a shop with a press to extract the joints. if they charged me an hour labor, it would be worth it.

 

[ieatglue]

Any update on the progress of the installation?

 

[v7guy]

I think I mentioned it earlier... but I didn't go into depth on it.
I picked up tie rods from a 2500HD and you need to ream the knuckles so the tie rod end joint will fit. The reamer was suppose to be delivered the first day I was taking it all apart and it didnt come. So I replaced the ball joints, brakes, one half shaft and the hubs and ended up putting it back together because I wasn't confident the reamer would come the next day and i had to go backto work. This is my daily driver.


I'm debating taking it back apart tomorrow since i have a couple days off and doing the bushings. But I may wait until the weekend when i have three days off. We'll see how ambitious I feel in the morning. I've taken lots of pics and plan to have a pretty thorough documentation.

I just didn't figure anyone would be interested in just seeing some ball joints and hubs being replaced when the biggest point of this was the bushing replacements

 

[ieatglue]

It's a lot cheaper to change the bushings than to replace the entire arms. Not having a shop press, I was thinking of using my car jack and figuring out a way to use that as a press. Maybe make a jig and place it under the trailer hitch with the arm and use the weight of the truck to press the bushings out/in

 

[Regulator]

I need new lower bushings as well as ball joints on both sides. I have been holding off on replacing them while I have been debating the future of the truck. (I am not getting rid of it, just debating a major front end overhaul.) When I do them I think I will probably make my life easy and just buy the lower control arms and then just have to replace upper ball joints.

 

[ieatglue]

Where's the fun in that?? I'll let you know how easy/hard it'll be to swap out the bushings!

I just noticed that Raybestos now has control arm bushings too! Kinda thinking they copied moog

 

[v7guy]

When i got up today it was raining, so I'm waiting until the weekend when i have more time. I suspect I'll have a pretty thorough break down of how it went on Monday or Tuesday.

 

[v7guy]

finally got around to doing this.

Just going to run down what seemed to work best for me with a lot of trial and error. This may not be the best way or the safest or even the easiest.

I used the big 23 piece balljoint press kit from advanced auto for a lot of this. I'm also going to assume everyone can disassemble the front suspension, if you can't you probably shouldn't tackle this. The process was roughly the same for all the bushings.

First I got the upper a arm and let my MAPP torch loose on it. You have to get a fair amount of heat into it. I put the flame about half on the metal end and half through the hole the bolt goes through so it heats up the whole bushing and starts melting the rubber out. It'll pop and ooze out, smell bad, and generally let out lots of acrid black smoke. This makes you single handedly responsible for global warming and killing cute baby polar bears.
After they burn out go back and knock the metal sleeves out with a hammer. If the metal sleeves don't fall out on their own or with a couple taps, set the bushing on fire again.

Afterwards your left with a hollow shell that needs pressed out.
First I used the ball joint press just to get it moving a bit, just the stepped disk and the retaining cup is enough. You'll only move the outer sleeve a 1/4" max. Then on one side of the outer sleeve is a lip. I took a crow bar and pried on it and it popped right out.

To reinstall I used a 1.25" socket and pressed the bushing in.

Then I tackled the lower a arm bushings. Of particular note. the new bushing will slide about halfway in before requiring the ball joint press. There are two bushing sizes in the lower control arm. A big bushing and a little bushing. I had to install the big bushing first.
The small bushing went pretty much exactly like the upper A arm. With the exception that I had to knock out the metal endcap on the side of the small bushing I was pressing on so I could get a shallow cup from the balljoint press to fit.

I burned out the bushing, then I used a jigsaw and cut partially into the outer bushing sleeve. Then a 5lb sledge hammer and a big chisel came into play to fold the outer bushing sleeve in on itself. Followed by pressing in the new bushing.

You'll see here, the left is the small bushing with the metal cap and the right I've used a small punch and a few taps to pop it loose. It goes back in easily after you've pressed the bushing in.

The big bushing side was a bit more problematic.

I burned out the bushing and knocked out the inner sleeve. Then cut the outer bushing sleeve with the jigsaw.

Then with a chisel and hammer I started folding the sleeve in on itself and eventually it just pops loose.

I couldn't find a piece to press in the big side bushing so i took the sleeve I just used a chisel to pound out and pulled it open until it would fit the replacement bushing. I then used it to press in the new bushing. This was the only solution I could come up with because nothing from the ball joint press kit really fits.
I also ran into problems getting the bushing pressed in far enough. In the end I used a couple small sockets to place around the edge and a 5lb weight for the ball joint press to push on.

The reason I said it's important to do the large bushing first. The only configuration I could come up with was running the screw of the balljoint press through the small bushing hole

I've got more to post, but this is it for this evening.

 

[ieatglue]

Great pics! I'm headed to buffalo in the AM to pick up my bushings, ball joints and shocks

 

[Regulator]

That just helps confirm my plan to just replace the entire control arm. That is a lot of work, and a whole lot of improvising!

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

I ought to switch my tierods at some point. I will likely try the ebay ones once I find the item on there. Had good luck with the current ones.

 

['03EXT]

That just helps confirm my plan to just replace the entire control arm. That is a lot of work, and a whole lot of improvising!

I am so glad now I chose the route to replace the lower brackets and upper arms

 

[Fire06]

It does look easier

 

[v7guy]

all in all it was a 12+ hour job. Not sure I could really recommend going this route. I saved a good little chunk of money, but at the expense of a lot of time and work. It's going to be up to the individual if it's really worth it or not.

 

[The_Roadie]

I ought to switch my tierods at some point.

Not the moosy Silverado ones? I was going to buy a couple of spare steering knuckles to do that in the springtime.

[QUOTE='03EXT;20261] I am so glad now I chose the route to replace the lower brackets and upper arms[/QUOTE]At $50 for aftermarket UCAs and $150 for LCAs with new ball joints, too, I feel I made the right choice personally as well. But having this thread is INVALUABLE for folks on the fence. Thx!

 

[jorgito]

Hi v7guy i'm looking for the part of your first picture.

is this the MOOG K200270 Front Lower At Shock?

 

[v7guy]

Clarification for future readers...

MOOG Part # K200272 Front Lower Rear $10.86 this is the big bushing at the rear or the control arm bracket
MOOG Part # K200271 Front Lower Front $10.92 this is the small bushing at the front of the control arm bracket
MOOG Part # K200269 Front Upper $15.17 this is for the upper control arm, 2 in a box.need 2 boxes to do both sides
MOOG Part # K200270 Front Lower At Shock $16.33 this is the lower mount for the shock that goes through the lower control arm

The picture above would be part number 270.

 

[yonkerss]

Well I am getting read to do the lower ball joints on my '04 Rainier w/ 5.3. I was originally planning on doing the joints and bushings - not buying the whole arms. I think I am going to change my mind now after reading this.

Planning on going with the Mevotech UCA and LCA.

Thanks!

 

[v7guy]

Don't forget that the lower a arm bushings are in the bracket that slides in the frame and they're not part of the lower a arm.

 

[yonkerss]

Thanks for the clarification!

That is this one you have listed:
MOOG Part # K200270 Front Lower At Shock

Do I need to order 2 of these - 1 for each side?

 

[ieatglue]

Didn't want to start a new thread, so I'll just add to this one. I got the bushing service kit but it didn't really work as well as I wanted it to. Here's what I came up with. It worked like a charm on the smaller control arm bushing, but not so quite on the larger one. I wanted to get 2" iron pipe caps, but HD only carried 1 1/4". The big bushing should be flush right? I might end up taking it to a shop and have it pressed if I can't figure it out by tomorrow evening. I've still got the other side to do!

Smaller bushing

Larger bushing, not quite in there all the way

Inside shot of larger bushing

It isn't going in all the way because the plate I used is touching the center piece of metal in the bushing, and so is the one on the outside. I need to figure out how to make a gap in order to get the bushing to slide about another 1/4". I tried using small sockets, but they kept sliding off

 

[CRAZYDAVE]

Rent the press from AutoZone or Advanced. Nice set up though.Looks like it should work.

 

[ieatglue]

I would have, but I don't live in the US lol. All they had here is the upper control arm press and the 5 piece arm puller kit. I got it to work by putting some nuts behind the pipe plate I used. The bushing didn't hang up on the C arm and slid in all the way

 

[CRAZYDAVE]

Golf Clap, Golf Clap. Eh? Toronto,I missed that. Glad it worked out.

 

[donterry]

I know that this is an old thread but did you also replace the lower strut mount or "Front Lower at Shock"? I saw the pictures of the parts but I just didn't see you mention it in the process. Did you have to burn those out also?